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Mainline J72DCC fitting guide


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#1 AMJ

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Posted 22 May 2010 - 12:45

This is a fairly simple task to do.

Take off the body by unscrewing the couplings and gently easing away from the lugs by the bunker

Each of the brushes are fed power from the screws that hold them into place.

To fit chip I removed from each long brush retaining plate, cut off the end that the screw goes through.

Get a solder tag (these are available in pack from Maplin for a few pence) this will be at the screw end of the retaining plate
Between the retaining plate sandwich some thin plastic to act as an insulator between the retaining plate and solder tag. The motor has a channel for the plate to sit in.

Before fitting the plate and solder tag solder on the wires from the chip.
100522 007.jpg

The above image shows the wires on the motor (I used clear thin platic as insulator) so this doesn't show as clearly as hoped. Place chip on top of chassis weight (in cab roof), tidy wires

Test run and reprogramme.

Body back on

100522 003.jpg

#2 AMJ

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Posted 22 May 2010 - 14:33

Before anyone asks I used Lenz Mini Silver, but you can use what ever your fave small chip is.

#3 m mcdermott

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Posted 10 July 2010 - 14:24

is the baccy j72 done in the same way ?

#4 34theletterbetweenB&D

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Posted 10 July 2010 - 16:57

View Postm mcdermott, on 10 July 2010 - 14:24 , said:

is the baccy j72 done in the same way ?
Has a significantly different layout, with an open frame motor trapped between the chassis halves, requires disassembly to access and isolate the motor terminals and attach the wires from the decoder. The Bachmann J39 has generically similar cosnstruction, as a guide to what has to be done. http://www.rmweb.co....-split-chassis/

#5 m mcdermott

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Posted 11 July 2010 - 12:55

thanks for fast reply 34c it looks like considerabley more difficulties then :(

#6 Butler Henderson

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Posted 11 July 2010 - 14:47

Baccy split chassis dcc conversions need extreme care but should then be wholly reliable. If space exists I attach the wires from the motor to a piece of veroboard copper clad and then it is possible to check for any track-motor shorts before wiring in the decoder.

#7 Camborner

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Posted 05 September 2010 - 20:48

On this model, could the retaining plate's backs be covered in some insulating materal, and have the orage and grey wires soldered to the plates and the red and black wires simply screwed into the holes for the screws behind the retaining plate, or would this not work?

#8 Mr.S.corn78

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Posted 05 September 2010 - 22:22

View PostCamborner, on 05 September 2010 - 20:48 , said:

On this model, could the retaining plate's backs be covered in some insulating materal, and have the orage and grey wires soldered to the plates and the red and black wires simply screwed into the holes for the screws behind the retaining plate, or would this not work?

hi,

the screws themselves provide the connection to the motor terminals from the chassis so they need to ne isolated from the motor strips and the way the op has done the converstion is the best way

hope this helps
cheers
Simon





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