The definitive survey on handbuilt track

[BTC]

Since there are quite a few folks on here who build their own track, and there have been a lots of threads about this on here in the past, I thought I'd put a quick survey together of different construction methods.

 

I have consciously made these single answer questions, so please provide your preferred option.

 

Thanks!

[Kris]

For the construction of the track question I have different preferred methods dependant on the final location of the track, going for a copperclad approach in hidden and fiddle areas, and with points (with added etched details) on the scenic areas. Plain track for scenic areas is moulded sleepers chairs and base plates.

[RedgateModels]

I've taken the liberty of answering the survey as how I plan to do my O gauge track, as I havn't started yet, hope this is okay

[trisonic]

Since there are quite a few folks on here who build their own track, and there have been a lots of threads about this on here in the past, I thought I'd put a quick survey together of different construction methods.

 

I have consciously made these single answer questions, so please provide your preferred option.

 

Thanks!

 

You left off the popular option of "Wooden ties/spiked rail"

 

Best, Pete.

 

 

 

[BTC]

Thanks to those who have replied already. I've done a minor revision to the question and some of the answers on the last question to better describe what I was thinking - hope it wouldn't have affected your answers.

 

Trisonic: Fixed!

[Western Star]

I am not sure that I understand the last question - which seems to be saying "how do you get the assembled track from where built to where used".

 

I build 7mm track using Exactoscale chairs, rail and ply sleepers - all assembled in a plywood jig to produce individual track panels with the sleepers at the correct spacing for the intended company (taking note of any variation for the sleepers either side of the rail joint). Each track panel is firm enough to be lifted from the jig and then stuck to the prepared formation with laytex glue. The story for turnouts is similar although the jig is replaced by a template stuck to contiboard and timbers held in the correct location with double sided tape (along the centre line of the through and diverging leads).

 

regards, Graham Beare

[BTC]

Western - that's what I was getting at - how do you make the formations rigid enough to get from workbench to laying site without the sleepers/timbers getting out of place. In that case your answer should be the first one.

 

I'll have another think to see if I can word that question better.

[Taz]

I have just recently started building my own point work in 4mm using a mix of exactoscale and c&l bits:

 

http://www.rmweb.co....ired-pointwork/

 

Quite pleased with the results so far.

[jamie92208]

I've just voted but would add the following.

 

For hidden fiddle yards areas I use copperclad and soldered for pointwork and ready made Peco for plain track.

The Templot templates are built on and the sleepers bonded to them with Butanone. I actually make the V'/wing rail crossings off the baseboard on a separate template with 3 or 4 small pieces of copperclad in betwen where sleepers go to give strength, then install the whole unit en bloc.

 

Jamie

[newport_rod]

Perhaps copperclad with etched chairs (à la Masokits) ought to be an option too.

[eldavo]

I'm afraid your questions are to either/or for me. I use a variety of techniques and tools which aren't covered by your options so can't really contribute to your poll. It's a limitation of polls generally that you will only get answers to questions that you have already decided a range of answers for. Not a good way of collecting information (IMHO).

 

Cheers

Dave

[Vanders]

Scale may play a roll in how people answer the questions. For example, if I had the option of building with ply & individual chairs in 1:148 I certainly would, but as it is my choice is mostly limited to PCB construction.

[66C]

The other factor is that some of us model in more than one scale/gauge combination and so have used a variety of techniques. So, should we be able to make more than one response to the survey to cover all experiences?

[jc2001]

My track making methods are now published on the O14 group website here: O14 group - PLR trackwork

 

John

[PhilH]

As always there is always more than one way to skin a cat (not that I've ever tried) but, for instance, in the method I'm following (Fastracks from the US) I solder the rail to 1 in 6 copperclad ties, the rest are cosmetic being split down Ebay wooden coffee stirrers held on with a dab of superglue.

 

Points are made using their downloadable templates (I'm building a US themed trainset) which follow the same principles - works out around £1.50 + my time for each point.

[Gordon A]

In reply to your questions I build my own track to P4 standards:

 

1) I use a mixture of copper clad, plastic with moulded chairs, and plastic with seperate chairs.

No ply and rivet - too fiddly and too many components, and no spike and sleeper.

 

2) The trackwork is designed on Templot.

 

3) Plastic trackwork is built in situ on the cork underlay.

I transfer the sleeper positions to the cork, then using thick superglue stick the sleepers to the cork.

I use a length of '0' gauge rail as a flexi curve with a piece of plstic to set the sleeperes to the correct angle.

 

The copperclad point work is built on the plan using a silver Prickstick to stick the sleepers to the plan (An idea I got from the 2mm modellers a couple of years ago).

When finished, the whole assembly is put in a hot shower and given a good soaking, then part from backing board using a sharp steak knife. Scrub any remaining glue and paper off from the point work using a nail brush.

Prickstick is water soluble and less vicious than double sided sellotape.

 

Plain track using copperclad is built as a comb with one rail, fitted and the second rail added.

 

Dry overnight on top of radiator and spray paint with primer and fix into position.

 

Gordon A

Bristol

 

 

[Jol Wilkinson]

I build P4 plain track (C&L chairs on ply sleepers)in a laser cut jig stuck onto a sheet of plywood. The jig give the correct sleeper spacing for LNWR 60 foot track panels. Two jigs are fitted end to end so I can make up track in two panel sections.

 

Turnouts are assembled on a Templot template (from the Templot track plan), mainly with plastic chairs but having three or four riveted sleepers for the crossing area. I remove the finished turnout from the template before laying. The trackwork is stuck down onto C&L closed cell foam underlay with Ball's latex carpet adhesive. This gives a little time for adjustment of the track panels/turnouts immediately after laying.

[BTC]

I'm afraid your questions are to either/or for me. I use a variety of techniques and tools which aren't covered by your options so can't really contribute to your poll. It's a limitation of polls generally that you will only get answers to questions that you have already decided a range of answers for. Not a good way of collecting information (IMHO).

 

Cheers

Dave

 

Bad hair day, Eldavo?

 

I can add whatever options you suggest. Failing that you could use the wonderful unlimited reply option to expand further!

[Western Star]

Western - that's what I was getting at - how do you make the formations rigid enough to get from workbench to laying site without the sleepers/timbers getting out of place. In that case your answer should be the first one.

 

 

Thank you for explaining the intention of that last question. As you have said, I ought to have selected the first option for the final question and I am happy for you to modify my voting accordingly if that is possible.

 

Thank you, Graham

[Jol Wilkinson]

Is the absence of activity on this thread indicative of the number of modellers on this Forum that are interested in realistic/accurate (rather than quick) trackwork?

[BTC]

41 responses out of 10,000 registered members!

 

Thanks to all that have responded

[meil]

Perhaps copperclad with etched chairs (à la Masokits) ought to be an option too.

 

 

It is if you want the PCB based track to match either RTR track or riveted/chaired track.

 

 

[BTC]

It is if you want the PCB based track to match either RTR track or riveted/chaired track.

 

Done!

[The Q]

I've answered how it will be built but also had to answer I bought the templates when they are actually supplied by EMGS as part of my membership. Than another slight deviation from the question in "how do they hold together" since they will be built is situ that question will not arise.