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Andy Siddalls Easy-Build Workbench





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#1 Andy Siddall

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Posted 11 December 2010 - 09:21

Welcome to my new Easy-Build workbench.

This workbench will continue from where I left off on my old RMweb workbench -
http://www.rmweb.co....php?f=8&t=36438

Below are a few pics to get us started.

Firstly the contents of the box....

1_BodyParts.JPG

2_Castings.JPG

3_Motor.JPG

After a thorough wash in order to get rid of any unwanted nasties from the manufacturing process, the ends need some of their detailing removed (as they are a shared component with the Mk1 coaches).

4_End1.JPG

5_DMBS_End.JPG

6_DMCL_End.JPG

The next components to be worked on are the body sides, these need their windows ataching, I do this using aeromodellers canopy glue while holding all in place with cothes pegs!

7_Windows1.JPG

8_Windows2.JPG

9_Windows4.JPG

10_windows5.JPG

For a more descriptive look at the progress so far, I would like to refer you to page 3 of my old workbench above.

Cheers

Andy
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#2 Andy Siddall

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Posted 12 December 2010 - 22:01

In order to get myself back into this project (although I am sure that work and the holidays are going to get in the way!)
I thought that I would get the bogies built, as they are a relatively simple part to finish.

I started with the motor bogie and then built the other 3 basic trailing bogies.

There is a Brass fret which contains the guard irons etc and these will be fixed in place during the next session.

11_PB1.jpg
An overview of the power Bogie kit, less the etched brass detailing parts

12_PB2.jpg
The Axles in place and the sideframes glued to the stretcher

13_PB3.jpg
The motor in place, along with the delrin chain providing drive to both axles.

14_PB4.jpg
The basics of the bogie are now complete with the addition of the bolster detail.

15_TB1.jpg
The major parts of the trailing bogie kit.

16_TB2.jpg
The wheels in place and the sideframes glued to the stretcher. I find the rubber bands help in keeping all together firmly until dry, however you need to be careful that the bottons of the sides do not toe inwards!

17_TB3.jpg
The Bolster and brake shoe details added!

18_TB4.jpg
The basic trailing bogie complete, following addition of the pivot. ( Do be careful not to let any glue, get into the pivot!).

All that is left for these now is the addition of metal details and the wiring of the pickups!

Cheers

Andy
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#3 two tone green

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Posted 13 December 2010 - 16:58

Very interested in your efforts to the point I'm going to buy one at the Bristol Show on the 23rd January.

I have stayed away from larger models due to them having so much to them and me spending so much time away from home. But looking at the 108 kit, it looks as if a minimum amount of tools etc are needed to build it allowing me to drag them along as I move about.

Will contact Easy Build about ordering one and motor bogie or bogies. Which brings me to, one or two motor bogies for this.

Is the one motor enough for the two car unit and would it still cope with a three car should I opt for the centre car at a later date. Layout not big at all on the flat but a garden set up is very much on the cards and having two motors may be beneficial.

Any one out there running one already with thoughts comments on this before I hit the buy button.

Thanks for posting this, will be a big help.

#4 two tone green

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Posted 13 December 2010 - 20:40

It seems I can do no wrong and SWMBO has said why not get it for Christmas. So looking at the Easy Build web site and seeing that you can call up to 9pm , the deed was done and a Derby Built Cl 108 will be on its way PDQ.

Very nice people down west and had a good chat with Shawn about all things DMU's and got some good tips and advice. The second motor not being needed as it is powerful enough to cope with the three cars.

Just need glue, paint and transfers and ESU Loksound to complete.

Will certainly be watching now Andy.

Thanks.

Andy Jack

#5 chriswright03

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Posted 13 December 2010 - 21:07

Certainly following this thread as well. I am thinking very hard about a 105 but would just like to know Andy how much can be glued and how much has to be soldered? As you can tell from my post in your Catfish thread I am a real novice at this kit building.:unsure:

I have built Parkside kits before with mixed success so I am quite happy to ahve a go but a few clues would be good if you have the time.

Chris

#6 Andy Siddall

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Posted 13 December 2010 - 22:03

Hi ,

Congratulations on your purchase Andy, you will not be disappointed, you are right in thinking that a few tools are all that is needed to build one of Shawn's kits.
As you were told, a single motor bogie is quite capable, I have had 4 Easybuild Mk1s behind the class 129 and it handled them exceptionally well!


Chris, from memory the only soldering on the kit is to wire the motor to the pick-ups and I think that you can solder the guard irons onto the bogie frames if you wish, other than that if you can build an Airfix kit then with little more skill you should be able to produce a nice model from these kits.

Any more questions please ask or keep watching as I am sure that most answers will come up in the thread....

Cheers

Andy

#7 two tone green

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Posted 14 December 2010 - 06:30

Thanks Andy, will be waiting for Xmas day to find the boxes under the tree.

#8 easybuild

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Posted 14 December 2010 - 20:43

Andy hi, glad to see you getting on with this, just one point, you do know we have etched brass window frames in the kit now, do you want some ?????? Shawn

#9 Andy Siddall

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Posted 14 December 2010 - 23:04

Hi Shawn,

it's nice to see that you've made it onto RMweb.
Thanks for the offer but as the next few photo's that I upload of the sides will show, they are now painted and varnished so maybe I will give them a miss for this one thanks.

Cheers

Andy

#10 boxbrownie

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Posted 15 December 2010 - 13:14

Excellent thread as I am waiting for a 108 kit to be delivered, hopefully before Christmas.....I have been tempted by an EB kit for a while now, look like a lot less phaffing around than some kits (obtaining all the odds and ends I mean).
I have always had a real soft spot for DMUs ever since driving one on the Hertford > K+ run a long time ago now, and in the period I am intending to model these will fit in great alongside the 40, 37, 47, 55 and eventually the lovely 31's.....somehow I think I am going to have to make it a MPD layout though, I have not got room for a mainline 7mm indoors :lol:

Keep it up Andy, great thread.

#11 two tone green

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Posted 15 December 2010 - 17:47

Andy, sorry to be a pain but could you measure the diameter of the maker lights on the cab fronts please.

Reason being I'm going to DCC Supplies tomorrow to pick up a ESU Booster and ECoS Link panel to go with my new ECoS controller and want to pick up some Red White Led's from there. Not having the kit yet I cannot measure the lights and even if it had arrived, I'm not at home until next week and not allowed to put my sticky fingers on it until
Christmas morning :(

Thanks.

Andy Jack

#12 Andy Siddall

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Posted 15 December 2010 - 19:56

David,
You'll enjoy the build, and the end result really is superb. I am also in the position of having no room for a mainline style layout and so I am slowly building up a collection of DMU's and considering building a small suburban type terminus or through station to run them on.

Andy,

The outside diameter of the light fittings is a little under 5.5mm, If you look at my 129 thread, I have used 3mm LEDS for the lights so that I kept a bit of plastic for the surround. Funnily enough I was looking at the cab fronts this afternoon and considered whether I could remove them completely and use a 5mm LED with the front filed flat and a 1mm red drilled into the side of this for the taillight.

I haven't tried the dual colour LEDs yet as I have a couple of unanswered questions that just maybe someone reading this can answer!

What kind of white is the white, i would only want to use a tungsten equivalent. I have seen an awful lot of models running around with either daylight or very bright white marker lights, whereas if you look at the real thing the marker lights are quite dim especially up to the early eighties when attitudes towards loco and unit lighting started to change.

Is the red also too overpowering? Mk1 DMUs tended to have a bulb holder for the tail light offset in the marker light reflector and that really made the red appear quite dim.

Cheers

Andy

#13 two tone green

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Posted 15 December 2010 - 20:11

Thanks Andy.

Look here http://www.dccsuppli...products_id=918 they are warm white so suitable for tungsten lights but only in 3 mm.

I had hoped that there would be a 5mm and I could grind the surface to a slight dome for a lens. Will have a look tomorrow at the 3mm warm white and the 5 mm which is a three colour version red, white, green but I obviously wont be using the green so will just chop of the green wire.

Once I have sen them, got some I'll report back. Looking forward to going to DCC Supplies as its a gold mine of goodies.

#14 two tone green

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Posted 15 December 2010 - 20:15

http://www.dccsuppli...roducts_id=1237

This may be what you want but out of stock just now. May be you could drill the side and insert a red LED into it and intensity can be controlled by changing CV's in the decoder. I turned down the brilliance of the head code LED's of my Heljan 47 and 37 by doing this.

#15 Andy Siddall

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Posted 15 December 2010 - 21:27

Andy,

Thanks for those links, I have got some 5mm Warm white LEDs to try, I get mine from Rapid - http://www.rapidonline.com/

As I said above I am considering using the body of a 5mm LED sticking through the cab front to represent the lamp housing, using some delicate masking of the front once filed flat and sanded gently to give a frosted finish it should be okay.

If you check the pictures about a quarter of the way down my class 129 build ( link in first post) you can see how I used 3mm LEDs on this and to be honest it does not look too bad, however the reds do need a lot of dimming down to look convincing.

Have a good day at DCC supplies tomorrow, sadly I have a 14 hour day ahead of me :(

Cheers

Andy

#16 two tone green

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Posted 17 December 2010 - 10:09

In all the excitement of being like a child in a sweet shop, I forgot the LED's. :rolleyes:

Got everything else plus a few extra goodies and got into talking about sound programming of decoders and completely forgot the LED's. It will be New Year now before I chase these up and it wont stop me doing some work on the DMU once the big guy in the red clothes has been. Must move the cast iron fire from in front of the chimney. :lol:

Got a weekend ahead in Cardiff and will pop into whatever model shops I can find there. There should be one, two minutes from the Holiday Inn in Castle Street if I remember rightly.

#17 easybuild

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Posted 17 December 2010 - 20:31

Andi hi, have a word with Richard, he does the best dmu lighting I have ever seen !! He uses real bulbs and the colour and intensity are simply brilliant

#18 Andy Siddall

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Posted 18 December 2010 - 00:16

Hi Shawn, thanks for the tip, I'll call Richard in the new year and have a chat, I also need some detail bits off him as well.......

I now have the front bogies completed with steps and speedo gear added. I just need to add the steps to the rear bogie of the DMBS. I just need to find out whether mine needs them as on some photos they are there and others not.....

I will then make a start on the cab fronts next week, work allowing.

Cheers

Andy

#19 Ressaldar

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Posted 18 December 2010 - 09:00

Hi Andy,

some great work and ideas going on here, which may encourage me to think again about the requirements for stock and location regarding the new layout - will be following with great interest.

regards

Mike

#20 chriswright03

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Posted 18 December 2010 - 16:50

Andy,

Thanks for the reply about the soldering. Really tempted to buy a 105.

One question I have which is why do you out the windows in before you paint the sides? I take it that it is easier to mask them than risk spoiling painted surfaces with glue but would be interested to hear you views.

Chris

#21 Andy Siddall

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Posted 18 December 2010 - 18:16

Hi Chris,

If you do go for the 105 you shall not be disappointed.

The reasoning behind putting the windows in first is that with the externally framed vehicles the frame edges are painted the same colour as the body sides, it is easier to fit the windows and mask the glazing before spraying as opposed to fitting the windows after spraying the body sides and then having to touch the frames in afterwards.

This has now all changed as the new window frames are a brass etch that you glue to the body sides before painting, then a clear acrylic insert is put in from behind when the body is constructed.

Below is a photo of the new style window parts from a BG kit which should appear on here after the 108...

frames.jpg

Cheers

Andy

#22 boxbrownie

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Posted 19 December 2010 - 10:43

My 108 arrived yesterday, and I must say upon opening the boxes I am amazed.

I have not closely looked at these kits apart from built versions, but dare I say they probably deserve higher recognition than they seem to receive. As the adverts say they include everything apart from paint and transfers and the instructions are very detailed along with a LOT of pictorial information, I should say a certain other kit manufacturer of "very realistic" kits would do well to emulate!

Well done Shawn, I look forward to this kit probably more than any other I have started....no hunting around for elusive components from different suppliers to finish the model, excellent.

#23 two tone green

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Posted 19 December 2010 - 12:16

Thanks for the tip on the windows. It was in my mind what was the best way to do this and with the new etchings, problem solved. Must practice my spraying now.

Still no sign of mine in deepest west Wales. Weather I suppose. :rolleyes:

#24 two tone green

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Posted 26 December 2010 - 12:32

Andy, is the fly wheel in the photo of the power bogie parts part of the kit or something you have added.

Cannot find one in mine and there seems to be no reference to it in the instructions I downloaded from the Easy Build web site

#25 boxbrownie

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Posted 27 December 2010 - 17:19

Andy, is the fly wheel in the photo of the power bogie parts part of the kit or something you have added.

Cannot find one in mine and there seems to be no reference to it in the instructions I downloaded from the Easy Build web site

There is a flywheel in my 108 kit.







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