Pete Harvey Posted January 7, 2011 Share Posted January 7, 2011 They do look very good the reason that it is more expensive is the quality is over and above the quality that Shapeways can produce it's of a quality that can be used as a master for mas production resin casting. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
m davies Posted January 7, 2011 Share Posted January 7, 2011 I don't know if you've seen the posting on the Shapeways forum, but there is a Dutch guy, Mitchell Jetten, - http://www.shapeways.com/shops/spoorobjecten - who has been trying a different process. These shots of an N gauge train are the results Which I think is very impressive. Sadly he says this is 2 to 3 times more expensive than Shapways. Tom That does look very good, ideal for some O gauge locos I'm planing, sadly he does not seem to mention who the printer is, which is fair do's on Shapeways site, but doesnt help those looking for that extra finesse and smoothness. Best Michael 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpoorObjecten Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 I can´t tell the name of the company just yet,, because of the testing of the company! I do can tell that it's printed with an EnvisionTec Ultra The same material as on the picture attached. (the grey material is more expensive, and printed by the EnvisionTec Mini Multi Lens) Cheers. Mitchell Jetten Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 Mitchell There is a much greater definition in the detail of the grey resin and the Tiger tank the tracks belong to will be a very well detailed model when it if finished. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpoorObjecten Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 I made those Tiger tank tracks! the grey printed indeed has much better quality,, but the problem is that the build space is very small and so on, not a lot can be produced! Also this printed is twice as expensive as the Ultra printer!!! so the costs to produce something will be a lot higher when you find a company that has that printer! 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 Mitchell That M3 Stuart track and running gear is very well detailed it is a pity about the printing area though. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Revolution Ben Posted January 9, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 9, 2011 Hello Mitchell Very nice work on your military vehicle modelling. Are you also responsible for the N Gauge DMU shown in the earlier posting? What is the envelope size for the newer, high definition items? I am an N Gauge modeller so it may be of use... cheers Ben A. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-CRS Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 The detail is a lot finer than I first expected. I like Ben are an N Gauge modeller and I am trying to evaluate whether this has any applications in N. Unfortunately I thing I am going to have to learn 3D design and try and get some test shots done. This is definitely something to follow up, I might even try in on a Nn3 kit and possible a building. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben racey Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 Hi guys, Just noticed this thread, thought you might be interested in this one in the narrow gauge section of the forum: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/topic/28552-3d-modelling-irish-narrow-gauge-and-zrr-15th-class-garratt/ which details where i've got to with the 3d printing process. Like others, I'm using google sketchup, then running the files through netfabb and cadspan to develop these models. Seems to work well so far. I'll keep updating the narrow gauge thread as things develop. Interesting to see the tank tracks and they really are very high quality prints. As the costs of printers comes down, this technology really will be useful to model some of those more obscure prototypes. I especially think it's useful for modelling carriages, as you always need a fair few of them, they take ages to build and this process can really take the edge off that. Regards for now. Richard. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpoorObjecten Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 Ben A, it's not an EMU but a dutch EMU google VIRM and you will see the train i created for enveloppe size you can have a look at the EnvisionTec website, cause i don't know the exact size! Atm, this material is somewhat expensive for just 1 train,,, but it's great material to use cast them and make 10 or 20 trains out of this model! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tebee Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 The detail is a lot finer than I first expected. I like Ben are an N Gauge modeller and I am trying to evaluate whether this has any applications in N. Unfortunately I thing I am going to have to learn 3D design and try and get some test shots done. This is definitely something to follow up, I might even try in on a Nn3 kit and possible a building. If you want to do some Nn3 wagons and coaches I've got some TTn3 stuff I'm hoping to launch fairly soon. It may be possible to adapt that to Nn3 with a little work as regards minimum thicknesses. At the moment it's body only, but I'm working on chassis for it. I'm currently waiting for my first sample to arrive, if your interested, let me know. And Hi Mitchell, glad to see you found this, sorry for not getting round to sending you the link ! Tom Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-CRS Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 Hi Tom emailed you of list, cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Hi Simon, I'm impressed, the result looks very good. I've just finished a similar project myself but in Ngauge using a brass etch I used Google Sketchup as my free cad My model lacks some of the detail of yours but in the smaller gauge it's more the look of the thing http://www.stuartmoore-modelrailways.co.uk/graham_farish_class_25.htm 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon br blue Posted January 20, 2011 Author Share Posted January 20, 2011 I've seen the dutch train and tank tracks on shapeways and would like to get something printed to this standard as this is at the moment shapeways biggest failing. I'm sure several modellers on this forum would also be happy to pay more money for finer detail. Hi Stuart, your etch looks like a big improvement on the original farish cabfront. I didn't know that it was possible to use sketchup as drawings of etching. Can you post some details of how it's done using sketchup as I'd like to have ago at drawing parts to be etched. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 I've seen the dutch train and tank tracks on shapeways and would like to get something printed to this standard as this is at the moment shapeways biggest failing. I'm sure several modellers on this forum would also be happy to pay more money for finer detail. Hi Stuart, your etch looks like a big improvement on the original farish cabfront. I didn't know that it was possible to use sketchup as drawings of etching. Can you post some details of how it's done using sketchup as I'd like to have ago at drawing parts to be etched. Hi Simon, The process is relatively simple. I make electronic circuits from time to time (see the signals section of my website) and make my own PCB's (printed circuit boards) using the toner transfer method which involves printing the design onto glossy photo paper with a laser printer, then transfering the printed design from the paper onto the metal surface (copper for pcb and brass for etchs). Once this is done the metal work is soaked in a solution of Ferric Chloride until all the unwanted metal has been disolved. The design is created using Sketchup in the normal way and then adjusted for size and printed out. My design is pretty one dimentional and I'm not sure it would work for depth eg rivets and door handles etc but for a simple flat surface it works ok. To be honest I was just playing around to see if it would work, for anything requiring greater detail I'd probably use a proffesional etching company who produce small sheets of brass or steel for around £30. If you've not used sketchup before, There is a learning curve but it is realtiely easy with lots of tutorial videos on youtube. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
millerhillboy Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 Hi Simon, I'm impressed, the result looks very good. I've just finished a similar project myself but in Ngauge using a brass etch I used Google Sketchup as my free cad My model lacks some of the detail of yours but in the smaller gauge it's more the look of the thing http://www.stuartmoo...sh_class_25.htm You could try N-Brass for 2mm lamp irons to give the front ends more of the details you require. Certainly looks better than the standard Farish front end which looks weird with the big deep window cavitys. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sailor Charon Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 Can I just add my name to the list of people saying 'You know, I really should learn how to do CAD.'? Thanks. It does seem to be getting to the stage where, even for N gauge, the quality is getting there. (And I just posted a message about how I wouldn't want to use it for D&D figures because it wasn't. ) It might have made my life a little bit easier with the streamlined B17... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon br blue Posted February 23, 2011 Author Share Posted February 23, 2011 Time for another update. In the most recent order from shapeways I got a 7mm class 20 bogie. I don't have a plan to build an 0 gauge class 20 but after drawing it I secided to get it printed to see how fine some of parts could be. The brake rigging is 0.8mm thick and the cylinder arms/pushrods are 0.9mm dia. The overall look is ok and the only area that doesn't look to great is the brake blocks as these have a layered effect- I think the bogie was printed vertically. Another area that would need modifying is the 4 small brackets on the bogie frame that should have holes in them but the gap has closed up as the dia was too small. I also ordered another resized 7mm class 25.3 cab to see if it would match upto the Steve Beattie body I have. I also modified the drawing to try to reduce the angled affect of the original model (caused by the low poly count of my original drawing). I think it is an improvement over the previous model particually around the cab roof area. It's a reasonable match for the 25 body and I'll try and paint and sand the model when I get a chance. If it still looks ok I'll have a go at casting a couple in resin. Another new model that I had printed was a class 31 cab that I drew last year. As with the 20 cab printed previously I printed it in 4mm to see how it compared with the Airfix, lima and Hornby models I have. It does look like a 31 but i'm not sure it is completely accurate. I think there is something wrong with the cab window area but I can't quite put my finger on it (the quality of the photo isn't great and the area above the nose doesn't show up very well). The front steps and tail lights haven't printed very well but if it was printed in a larger scale I think they would be ok. THe final item I had printed was a z gauge J70 tram engine to go with the class 04 and van printed last time. The detail and finish doesn't look great but it is less than 3cm long. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethevans1986 Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 Nice mate. Glad the cab of the 25 is going well. Any change of a cab for a 24 which fits a Steve Beattie kit? :-P GE Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stadman Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 You could always fix a chain and paint then sell as a key ring Still great stuff. >THe final item I had printed was a z gauge J70 tram engine to go with the class 04 and van printed last time. The detail and finish doesn't look great but it is less than 3cm long. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will J Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 One was a class 04 tram engine printed in black detail and was T scale - 1:450 Wow...! I have been looking into using SHAPEWAYS to create T gauge bodies, I had figured that the resolution was not good enough and had lost enthusiasm, but the little T gauge 04 proves that the black detail stuff is well up to the job. I'd be fascinated to see if you make any progress finishing that, or indeed the other small Z gauge stock, and to see how well paint takes to it. I have been teaching myself Google Sketchup (which gives first impressions of being useless, but the more you play with it the more potentially useful it becomes!), so will soon have some completed models ready to send off. I wonder how many T gauge '04s would be needed to make up the minimum order from shapeways? A fascinating thread, which I have only just discovered, will watch with great interest. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon br blue Posted February 25, 2011 Author Share Posted February 25, 2011 I did try a t gauge clas 25 but it didn't look very good. I think the simple shape of the 04 worked well. The 25 was just a scaled down version of a 7mm cab which I don't think helped. The white detail looks about the same as black detail but the white, strong and flexible looks very fluffy. It might look better with some paint on, i will also have a go at painting the z gauge bits if the weather ever gets better. The reason for doing the 04 in black was that all the would really need painting would be the red bufferbeam. I did have a go at drawing a loco in sketchup but it was only a quick attempt. I also managed to draw part of March depot which was easier as there are not many curved edges. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will J Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 Right, first lesson is that the strong and flexible is not the one to go for! My vague plan was to keep the sides and ends of the models smooth and clean, without raised details or windows, and rely on printed transfers for the details and livery. These two are a vaguely 'bubblecar' ish thing and something along the lines of a Class 153, it is hard to be specific at such a small scale They are designed to fit the '21m' and '19m' motorised chassis available from tgauge.co.uk Having seen the little '04, I am suddenly keen to get the project going again! Maybe it is time for a 3D modelling and rapid protyping sort of area on RMWeb? Could be a useful feature.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will J Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 PS.. That little Class 25 looks rather excellent, as do your other models. (I have trained my eyes to scale down close up photos to something like 1:450 scale!) Is it a solid block, or something more hollow that a chassis / motor can fit into? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sailor Charon Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 Right, first lesson is that the strong and flexible is not the one to go for! My vague plan was to keep the sides and ends of the models smooth and clean, without raised details or windows, and rely on printed transfers for the details and livery. These two are a vaguely 'bubblecar' ish thing and something along the lines of a Class 153, it is hard to be specific at such a small scale They are designed to fit the '21m' and '19m' motorised chassis available from tgauge.co.uk Having seen the little '04, I am suddenly keen to get the project going again! Maybe it is time for a 3D modelling and rapid protyping sort of area on RMWeb? Could be a useful feature.... I think it would be. I just wish I had the time to try and learn how to use CAD. It would be really useful, I think. I mean, it would be really handy to be able to knock up a set of GWR standard bits, you know, Number 1 or Number 7 boiler, Churchward, Collett or Hawksworth cab... Maybe different sizes of tank and bunker... You could take things a long way with a small set of parts. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now