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2mmFS 3D Modelling - GWR Outside Framed Goods Van


Ian Smith

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Having seen some of the great models that can be produced from 3D Printing, I have begun (for the second time) to produce the 3D model for a GWR Outside Framed Goods Van. These early vans were 15'6" long with a total body height of only 6'8". The earliest ones had wooden underframes, and they had a long life some ending up as Sand Vans.

 

I am using Google Sketch-Up to do the modelling, and so far have put together the main body, and outside frames. I am now in the process of adding the iron-work strapping plates. Hopefully the screen shot below will show progress to date.

 

blogentry-12089-0-07234800-1332880036_thumb.jpg

 

All being well once complete I will get one printed up at Shapeways.

 

Ian

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That is looking good Ian.

 

I think Richard Brummitt wrote that when he had his W7 special cattle wagon printed he needed to do a small batch of four to meet the minimum volume requirement. If something similar still applies then you would probably have to do several - I would guess at about six, assuming that they are hollow and relatively thin-sided. I don't think you would have much difficulty finding customers for any surplus models in that event.

 

David

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  • RMweb Gold

Very nice. It's a lovely prototype. Impressed by your Sketchup skills - it takes me ages to do even the simplest things. I keep loosing my orientation when working with it :-)

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Mikkel,

I have always had a soft spot for the outside framed vans (and their brake van counterparts). Sketch-Up does seem a little quirky, and I too often lose my orientation, the "Zoom Extents" is always useful so that you can find everything again :-)

This is my second attempt, having spoken to Richard Brummitt, he suggested that I model a quarter of the van then copy and mirror to build up the whole. I haven't done that - I only managed to work out how to mirror something last night!! What I have done is model the outside framing in the flat then pull it to shape to build up the depth. The end framing, the side framing and the door assembly were each built up as separate units and "Grouped" so I could manipulate them and move them into place.

 

The only concern I have is the details, the gaps between the planks are only 0.1mm wide and 0.2mm deep (the latter Richard's suggestion). The strapping on the framing is also 0.1mm thick and the bolt heads 0.2mm square and 0.1mm deep. I do wonder if these items will be visible when printed.

 

Ian

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I made strapping 0.125 deep to match half etched 0.010". My rivets were 0.15mm diameter (I'm told you can't do that on sketch up) and either 0.125mm or 0.15mm deep. They printed as little bumps (exactly what you want).

 

If I were you I would be tempted to get several made and pick the best to clean up for a master to begin resin casting them. They'd be much more useful to people in quantity than the prototypes I have chosen!

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off topic (almost), do Shapeways do a tutorial / list of minimum requirements? Or is there a tutorial here which I have not found? Or details elsewhere off-site? Sorry if this seems to come from a newbie, I used Autocad (R12) in anger last about 13 years ago, so I am just a bit rusty!

 

Just opened eyes and found the 3D and CAD group!!!! Ignore my last signal! Sorry.

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0.1mm should print (it is within the design limits). Whether you will actually see it is another matter - on some things I am adding deliberately overscale items so that they can actually be seen (as the mind expects to see something which may to scale be too small).

 

Cheers, Mike

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0.1mm should print (it is within the design limits). Whether you will actually see it is another matter - on some things I am adding deliberately overscale items so that they can actually be seen (as the mind expects to see something which may to scale be too small).Cheers, Mike

 

I always think that adding items overscale is a mistake - if its too small, leave it off. I add a lot of small detail at the painting stage,with paint - painting in fine detail or hinting at it with shadow or such like is often enough, particularly in 2mm.

 

Jerry

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off topic (almost), do Shapeways do a tutorial / list of minimum requirements? Or is there a tutorial here which I have not found? Or details elsewhere off-site? Sorry if this seems to come from a newbie, I used Autocad (R12) in anger last about 13 years ago, so I am just a bit rusty!

They (Shapeways) seem to provide an extensive variety of tutorials here.

 

And there is a list of requirements for the various different printing materials here.

 

David

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Thanks all for all of your suggestions and support. It is giving me the impetus to actually try to finish the design.

 

I did submit the first version (without any detail) to 3D Print UK for a quote (just to get an idea as to whether this little project would be financially viable - normally I would build this sort of thing in plastic-card). Nick at 3D Print UK was very helpful, but did suggest that I make the gaps between the planks at 0.5mm, and indeed make even the framing much thicker. Clearly I have ignored his advice, the thought of a gap between the planks at a scale 3 inches seems absolutely ludicrous!! :-)

 

Ian

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Thanks for those tips about Sketchup Ian (and Richard). The mirror trick sounds convenient, must try it out.

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Note to Mikkel, I've never used sketch up because I have a proper 3D CAD solution at work for abuse out of hours. The mirror technique is good because when I mirror dependant surfaces (sometimes called seed and boundary) it will copy everything that is added later. As an example I recently decided I wanted to include the buffer shanks on a model and I only had to add one and it updated all four corners. Learning the software is one challenge, thinking in 3D is another, and making the model the best way for your requirements withing the limitations of the software will come with practice. I've found a parametric 2D CAD program for use at home (I now have four 2D CAD program's installed) so I'll be digging into some tutorials :-) )

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Something I forgot to mention but remembered whilst on my way home from work today is that although the 0.1mm plank gaps printed (I made them 0.2mm deep - that is in to the body) the holes that I wanted that were bigger (0.3mm iirc) were not apparent on the model when printed. This left me a bit confused. They were going to be for door and grab handles.

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Well,

 

I have now finished the 3D model. Just need to send it to Shapeways or 3D Print UK to get an idea of the cost to print it up. The final model is shown below.

 

3D Model of GWR Outside Framed Van

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Ian, I have finally caught up with your blog - forgive me for adding remarks from several entries in one place!

First up - love the wagon, though 3D printing mystifies me and I have no idea how this 3D sketch can be turned into a template to print from!

The chassis for the Metro looks very neat. How do you plan on isolating the body/runningplate from the chassis - if it is split chassis?

The boiler and fittings fittings look lovely too. I have tried this turning technique myself once or twice - but found my files obliterated by the process afterwards!

Luckily, NBrass sell a wide variety of ready made fittings!

I like the simplicity of the layout - I think often they are overdesigned. I particularly like the long sidings, again how often do you see stubby sidings on model railways?

Keep up the good work, I am now following your blog!

Regards,

Chris

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Chris,

 

The chassis is indeed split frame - the side frames phosphor bronze strip, held apart by a couple of pieces of copper clad fibre board. The wheels are the old white metal centred ones that used to be sold by 2mmSA. The crankpins are simply lengths of 0.7mm brass wire, the "washers" on the end are simply stampings of 4thou nickel silver sheet (a 1.5mm dia bar "belted" through it to provide a disc, then a 0.7mm hole "belted" through the middle of the disc to give me a little washer (great things are broken drills :-) ). The coupling rods were some that I originally purchased from 2mmSA many many years ago for an 0-6-0 Dean Goods that I intended to build (obviously halved and filed to suit a 4 coupled engine).

 

I intended insulating it from the body by putting some selotape or the like on the underside of the footplate (I think that insulation tape may be too thick, but that is also an option).

 

Ian

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