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Peckett "Y" Class - Bodywork

2mmMark

Entry posted by 2mmMark

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One of the things I'm pretty good at is starting a new project before finishing off others. Not sure why but I do like the planning & construction phase. I like to get a model running and then it can wait ages to enter the paintshop for final finishing. I also have a lot of unmade kits awaiting their turn on the workbench. I've recently done an inventory and have found at least 17 different locos of various types to build. Getting a little bit scary!

 

One that's been on the to-do list is an N-Brass Peckett saddle tank. Looking through my stock of wheels, gears & motors, I found enough parts to make a start.

 

With a small loco like this, I prefer to have an erected loco body to provide a clear idea of the space available for the mechanism, so step one was to assemble the main parts of the body and footplate.

 

I've chosen to build my Peckett as an inside-cylindered K class. Railway Bylines Summer Special No.2 contains a useful article on Pecketts, which gives principal dimensions for most classes. The N-Brass loco is designed to fit on a Bachmann 0-4-0 but is actually pretty close to scale for a K class. Inside cylinders mean that the chassis is a simple no-frills 0-4-0. 7mm diameter wheels won't need a very high gear reduction to get good running.

 

The etch is a fairly straightforward one to build, as I'd chosen to take up the option that N-Brass offer of a pre-rolled saddle tank. Nick Tilston, proprietor of N-Brass has a former around which the tank can be shaped. This is a big timesaver.

 

A few hours work has got me to this stage:

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When assembling a kit like this, I use a variety of means to make the bends, mostly blocks of tool steel or gauge plate to ensure good right angle bends. I've never tried a "Hold 'n' Fold" but I'm sure it could be useful. I did acquire some new tools though, a pair of Xuron photo etch shears and a pair of Tamiya photo etch scissors. These made cutting & trimming the etched parts very easy. Money well spent I feel.

 

Addendum - referring back to the Bylines article, I've just realised it's actually a Y class Peckett I'm building. Faulty memory. For those with the books, the phoot I'm using as reference is on page 47.

 

For soldering, I'm not one for making "thingies" to hold parts in position. I rely more on tweezers and cocktail sticks to hold parts, sometimes resorting to fingers if I can stand the heat. Nickel-Silver is much better in this respect. The heat transfer through brass is very quick. Still, fingers cool down if blown upon...

 

As I'm going to use a split-frame chassis, I decided to use a piece of single-sided PCB in lieu of the etched side valances. I cut & shaped a piece of 0.8mm PCB to the right profile for the sub-footplate. The 0.8mm thickness is just right for the depth of the valances.

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The copper face will be against the body and the chassis frames will butt up against the insulated face.

blogentry-7249-0-91893400-1399758619_thumb.jpg

 

blogentry-7249-0-14174200-1399758655_thumb.jpg

 

And that folks, is pretty much where things stand at present. The next move will be to make a set of frames. The kit does provide some etched frames but these are quite thin. I'll be using 0.5mm phosphor bronze as this provides a strong chassis with ample bearing surfaces for the axles.

 

Mark

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  • RMweb Gold
queensquare
  • RMweb Gold

I've had one of these in my unbuilt kit box (scarily of similar proportions to yours) for some while as well so will follow your progress with interest. I like the single sided PCB valance idea - I shall pinch that!

 

Jerry

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  • RMweb Gold
2mmMark
  • RMweb Gold

Jerry, I'm going to suggest to the Sales officer that pieces of 0.8mm PCB are stocked in Shop 3 for this very purpose.  I found the SRBP material very easy to saw & file into shape. Fibreglass backed PCB would be much harder.

 

There is a small downside - nowhere to solder footsteps to. No insoluble but it needs a bit of a think.

 

Mark

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Valentin

 

For soldering, I'm not one for making "thingies" to hold parts in position. I rely more on tweezers and cocktail sticks to hold parts, sometimes resorting to fingers if I can stand the heat. Nickel-Silver is much better in this respect. The heat transfer through brass is very quick. Still, fingers cool down if blown upon...

If you burn your fingers, I would suggest touching your earlobe with the burnt fingers. I don't know how, but it acts as a heat-sink. I know this because, like you, I am not a big fan of those "thingies"...

 

Using PCB for the under-footplate it's a brilliant idea! Thanks for sharing.

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  • RMweb Gold
2mmMark
  • RMweb Gold

The PCB is definitely going into the Association's Shop 3.  Details should be in the June Magazine/Newsletter.

 

Interesting tip about the earlobe. Must remember to put down the soldering iron first...

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