How to Crusty a Crosti - a Toboldlygo Guide
Entry posted by toboldlygo
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A few weeks ago, one of our forum members asked if I would do a 'How to' guide for Hornby's Crosti Boilered 9F after seeing my first victim grace this forum:
(Many thanks to Rob Mcgavin for having a play with the image of 92021)
Once I received my second victim from Hereford Model Centre, I began by removing both the numbers and crests - as the chosen 9F (92028) didn't receive the Late Crest Totem before rebuilding. I used Micro Sol to remove the numbers and then polished the affected areas with Auto Glym Colour Restorer to give a good shiny surface for the decals (Fox Transfers). However before I added the transfers there was the small matter of adding the lamp brackets, grab rails to the front of the running plate and of course the Etched Smoke box Number and shed code plate..
Once these parts were done I added the decals and put the loco aside for 24 hours or more to allow them to dry properly.
Once dried I masked up the cab interior, buffers, windows, smoke box number and shed code plates and the crusty (sorry Crosti) entered the paint shop.
I will state here what paints I used on with my Airbrush - Vallejo Model Air - Black (71.057), Panzer Dark Grey (71.056), Olive Drab (71.043) and Tamiya Clear (X-22).
First off I spray the top and running gear with black.
Then slowly using thin coats Panzer Dark Grey build up the basic grime (next 3 pics)
Then I use Olive Drab to add to the grime, black to added to the soot over the top of the loco and Clear to add oily and damp areas.
Now obviously the chassis needs some paint, as it is difficult to paint with body on, so I remove the body and also the tender wheels (not shown) so I can ensure complete paint coverage.
Once all this is done and the loco is dried sufficiently I re-assemble and begin with the hand weathering, which is basically a mix of paints and weathering powders (listed below).
Tamiya Smoke (X-19), Clear (X-22), Vallejo Model Air Olive Drab (71.043), Panzer Dark Grey (71.056), Rail Match Oily Steel (2415). Plus Tamiya weathering powders (D & E)
At this point I added real crushed coal to the tender and a few additional details..
Hope this helps 
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