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Silent Running

Posted by Crosland , 03 August 2014 · 1,235 views

Not quite as much progress to report as I had hoped. The missing track has been replaced by easitrac.

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The layout has been (re)wired for DCC, i.e., all track sections live. I had to fix a few loose sections and the point frog adjoining the Easitrac had to be fixed back down, but nothing too serious. These little blighters,

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however, are becoming a right pain. They are the polarity switches for the frogs, buried in the baseboard and only accessible by removing bits of scenic finish :( One seems OK, two are make-before-break (what???!!!!???) and cause a short as the point is changed and one doesn't break at all, causing a constant short when set for one route. I had hoped to keep these switches, to avoid too much messing with the tiebars, and connect the existing operating links to servos, but it looks like replacement with microswitches is now on the cards.

So, the choice of routes is very limited at the moment, but as the title suggests here's a short, not particularly good, clip:

The loco is a Farish Jinty on a 2mm SA chassis. The chassis has been through the wars a little and I can't seem to get reliable pickup at the moment (even with simpson springs) so I may build a new one and put it down to experience.

  • Like x 6

Looking good.


Suggest you check all the wheels sit on a piece of glass, the chassis is probably twisted - too easy with the very thin frames.

Those switch rail gaps look a little unnecessarily generous for 2FS, Andrew. They look more like N to me! Mine are usually 0.5mm although anything up to 1mm should be ok.
Also agree with Tim about the twisting. Sometimes if you tighten the screws that attach a thin frame chassis to the body it can induce some twist. This can the case if the top of the chassis and the underside of the body aren't quite in synch.



The chassis on my saddle tank became twisted when I used 2 bolts to hold the body on - not by very much, but enough to upset the pick up.  As a result, I now dispense with the bolt at the front so the body is only held on by the single bolt at the back (although it is an interference fit at the front where the Farish casting behind the (replaced) buffer beam fits between the 2 sides of the chassis.  Electrical isolation between chassis and body being made by supergluing cigarette paper around the body casting above).



Confession time, the Jinty body was just sitting on the chassis, no screws :)


I do also have a similar pickup problem with the tender for a 4F that rocks. That has two screws holding the body so I'll try adjusting the tension in those.



Aug 05 2014 07:39

Good to see something running on here.


As for the Jinty, a bit of controlled slop is always useful for pickup, particularly on 0-6-0s. I find they need to bed in before they will really run sweetly - have you got a rolling road you can give it a few hours on?



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