Eyesight has dictated that this loco kit will be the last one as I must save my sight for easier tasks-like building a layout!!!

I felt I should add this last kit build to my GWR collection of constructs to complete the journey as it were.

Fortunately, I purchased the kit six months before the collapse of JLTRT and further fortune has been that there are no missing parts.

As always my preference, beginning with the chassis first, I planned for sprung hornblocks. These are supplied as part of the kit but was concerned about the amount of potential axle slop in what are average quality in the bearing and hornguide castings.

Too much axle movement will always lead to coupling rod binding problems further down the chassis build so it is prudent to sort this out right from the start.

In this case I opted for using Slaters `new style` sprung hornblocks ( a first for me).

These are much better quality products with absolute minimal axle slop in the bearings and hornguides. And have cast `axle height` marking which will help in fitting later on.

The next priority for me is to build up the coupling rod etches I pre-drilled these 2.4mm to take the Slaters coupling rod bearings.

One other important observation for me was to adjust the position of the plunger pickups to avoid the `nasty plastic infill` on Slaters driver wheel rims causing electrical pickup problems down the road.

Before using them the chassis fret needs to be adjusted for their use. The basic chassis subframe is a combination of fold up frame spacers, chassis sides and detailed side frame overlays. There are pre-etched `dimples` to help establish the `axle ride height` which is very helpfull leaving me to mark out the Slaters hornblock cut-out positions.

Having prepared the chassis side frames and soldered up....................................................

............................................it is an easy and reliable job to accurately solder the hornblocks in position using the coupling rods and axle jig. ( obviously the springs are to hold the hornguides in position before soldering)

The result is a sweet running chassis everytime.......