coombe junction - moorswater

Hello Pete,

 

supposing that your track now allows engines to run satisfactorily, have you considered hardening up the furry areas of the card with drops of superglue allowed to soak in? After drying hard the card could be sanded, including the infill running edges.

 

good luck

 

Alex.

I'd be tempted to try dry brushing the furry areas with a hint of green, maybe to suggest a degree of mossy-ness. Try to make something out of a tricky situation...

 

...or at least that is my cunning plan for the night. The stock looks incredibly at home amongst the scene.. Nice!

I used genuine DAS red clay on SBL and that was fine, worked straight away. I genuinely think you have a combination of very bad luck on the first attempt and over thinking the second. Admittedly your beautiful fine scale track is a bit more delicate. If you need DAS I can post some, could put some wires in with the package too, see how far it gets!

Looks pretty good in the photos and no Pete it is not a proper model unless it moves even if its just up and down a straight piece of track.

Years ago I had some stuff sold for fixing rotten wooden windows it would soak into the rotten wood and set it hard.The superglue idea sounds similar.

Don

I'd go with the superglue and tint of green for a moss effect Pete. You'll always get these niggles with infill areas and smooth running - besides all concrete hard standings have rough areas in reality. Always thought it was brave to incorporate a point into an infill section anyhow. Don't forget, we can also start to be with the model too much sometimes - if you get my meaning - seeing fault where others can't. This is a fabulous little scheme so keep plugging away - there's so much eye catching detail to it and I certainly can't detect any fault from your pics. By the way, thanks for the tip about the Humbrol concrete colour.

Hi Pete, Been there done it got the T shirt!

It's always a downer when something like this happens and I too have had more than my fair share of failures.

Some of the failures I have had though have often worked out to be an improvement over my original thoughts, so as people have said above a rethink and some super glue and paint could solve the issue.

 

Whatever the resolution is I hope it works out to your satisfaction.

 

Cheers!

Frank

Many thanks everyone for your comments and support...This forum is certainly great in these times of desperation!...in more detail...

 

supposing that your track now allows engines to run satisfactorily, have you considered hardening up the furry areas of the card with drops of superglue allowed to soak in? After drying hard the card could be sanded, including the infill running edges.

 

Alex, hi - Thanks...that sounds like a great idea and something I will try this morning...

 

I'd be tempted to try dry brushing the furry areas with a hint of green, maybe to suggest a degree of mossy-ness. Try to make something out of a tricky situation...

...or at least that is my cunning plan for the night. The stock looks incredibly at home amongst the scene.. Nice!

 

Thanks also Will - Another good suggestion. I will start with the glue and see if that cracks the furryness (is that a word?) It will have a degree of moss added at sometime but I was hoping to work from something more concrete (grabs coat) to begin with...

 

I used genuine DAS red clay on SBL and that was fine, worked straight away. I genuinely think you have a combination of very bad luck on the first attempt and over thinking the second. Admittedly your beautiful fine scale track is a bit more delicate. If you need DAS I can post some, could put some wires in with the package too, see how far it gets!

 

Thanks Tom - I think you analysis was spot on re the evolution of this area. Thanks for the offer of the DAS too - I even turned down an opportunity from Jon020 for a packet when I was back in the UK last month as I thought this time it was okay. I will try the rescue methods suggested first but keep the DAS as the preferred option if I have to redo it...again...

Part II - Sorry, RMweb crashed half way through replying...

 

 

 

Looks pretty good in the photos and no Pete it is not a proper model unless it moves even if its just up and down a straight piece of track. Years ago I had some stuff sold for fixing rotten wooden windows it would soak into the rotten wood and set it hard.The superglue idea sounds similar.

 

Thanks Don - My manipulative photography helped disguise how bad it really is! But when you stand back 2 feet or so, as at an exhibition, it ain't that bad...but its the knowing that eats away at you...

 

I'd go with the superglue and tint of green for a moss effect Pete. You'll always get these niggles with infill areas and smooth running - besides all concrete hard standings have rough areas in reality. Always thought it was brave to incorporate a point into an infill section anyhow. Don't forget, we can also start to be with the model too much sometimes - if you get my meaning - seeing fault where others can't. This is a fabulous little scheme so keep plugging away - there's so much eye catching detail to it and I certainly can't detect any fault from your pics. By the way, thanks for the tip about the Humbrol concrete colour.

 

Thanks also Mike - Agreed that we can get too close to what we are doing...but I guess that's to be expected when we spend so many hours with our models. I hope that Humbrol is still available as our local model shop is now swapping Humbrols for war gaming acrylics...

 

Been there done it got the T shirt! It's always a downer when something like this happens and I too have had more than my fair share of failures. Some of the failures I have had though have often worked out to be an improvement over my original thoughts, so as people have said above a rethink and some super glue and paint could solve the issue. Whatever the resolution is I hope it works out to your satisfaction.

 

Frank, hi - Many thanks for this - Sounds like we have a fair collection of T-shirts between us then!

Spot on though, that sometimes better solutions evolve from the initial methods (I am especially thinking my warehouse cladding in that respect) so I will be trying the rescue remedys above first as I would prefer that then rip it up again...especially now I have set the buildings in place!...(I know what you are thinking Tom E )

Chin up Pete. I agree with other posters that furry (and frayed) card can be rescued by persuading it to absorb something that sets solid. We've used superglue on buildings but can't vouch for it on ground surfaces. I guess in the old (pre superglue) days the advice would have been to use shellac so there are other options.

 

I guess that the challenges will be to make sure it only goes where you want it and to restore a matt finish when you're done.

 

Regards, Andy

Chin up Pete. I agree with other posters that furry (and frayed) card can be rescued by persuading it to absorb something that sets solid. We've used superglue on buildings but can't vouch for it on ground surfaces. I guess in the old (pre superglue) days the advice would have been to use shellac so there are other options.

I guess that the challenges will be to make sure it only goes where you want it and to restore a matt finish when you're done.

 

Thanks Andy - Superglue has now been administered! As you say, now I need to work back the finish to be matt...assuming the locos still run again now...

From the photo's you can't tell there is anything wrong with any part of the model. I would certainly be inclined to try to rescue the situation.

 

All this talk of ripping stuff up and starting again is not conducive to those who haven't even started laying track yet!! Mind you I intend really pushing the boat out and build Brunel's Baulk Road track in 2mmFS when I start - so far I have made a few parts for a point (switch blades, crossing nose), but need to finalise the track plan and get some boards built.

 

Ian

I was thinking about this a bit more after posting. For anything other than a static diorama the track is going to get some wear and tear so you probably need to think about it in terms of occasional 'maintenance' rather than finishing the job once and never touching it again. For non inset track it is quite common to need to go round with the paintbrush now and again after some over-enthusiastic track cleaning or (ahem) adjustments, so maybe your equivalent is superglue and matt paint.

the locos ran thats a good start said the man who has just rebuilt a crossing and turnout for the third time

From the photo's you can't tell there is anything wrong with any part of the model. I would certainly be inclined to try to rescue the situation.

All this talk of ripping stuff up and starting again is not conducive to those who haven't even started laying track yet!! Mind you I intend really pushing the boat out and build Brunel's Baulk Road track in 2mmFS when I start - so far I have made a few parts for a point (switch blades, crossing nose), but need to finalise the track plan and get some boards built.

 

Thanks Ian - there's quite a few 2mmFS modellers who have done a bit of ripping up of late on the forum...its en vogue at present! I like the sound of your project and have been enjoying see your rolling stock collection growing...

 

I was thinking about this a bit more after posting. For anything other than a static diorama the track is going to get some wear and tear so you probably need to think about it in terms of occasional 'maintenance' rather than finishing the job once and never touching it again. For non inset track it is quite common to need to go round with the paintbrush now and again after some over-enthusiastic track cleaning or (ahem) adjustments, so maybe your equivalent is superglue and matt paint.

 

You're right Andy...inset track needs to be carefully cleaned and I can see me revisiting the surface a fair few times...be nice to get it looking the part to start with though...

 

the locos ran thats a good start said the man who has just rebuilt a crossing and turnout for the third time

 

not to start with they didn't...but then all my layouts seem to go through that phase...consistency!...

Pete, sorry to see the latest difficulties, but glad that solutions are slowly coming together. It's been quite a trial this one, although the results look worth the effort. It's difficult to keep at it at times, but I'm pleased to see the mojo being maintained.

Sorry for missing this earlier, but with a laptop slowing to a snail's pace and a (now) totally dead desktop, access to RMW was a little hampered this weekend.

Keep at it and that DAS is still in my bits box if needed.

Jon

Jon, hi - thanks for this. Yep, I making a right mess of this inset track when others have made it look so easy...but that sums up my modelling - its the journey not the destination...as I keep reminding my students!

 

So glad I posted the latest fiasco though as would never have thought of superglue and some initial trials look like it can be rescued rather than ripped up as it nearly was a few days ago.

 

Sorry to hear about the technology crisis...perhaps a diversion of funds from Liverpool to California is required

Sorry to hear about the technology crisis...perhaps a diversion of funds from Liverpool to California is required

Streuth Pete... it can't ever be that serious

I know what you mean about posting on though... remember by painting nightmare... some really solid advice on here... makes you feel proud to be a RMWebber doesn't it!

makes you feel proud to be a RMWebber doesn't it!

 

oh yes...its important to show the good and not so good on here I think...

Hi Pete,

 

I agree with the other guys, the super glue theory sounds like a good plan. Or you could get some real china clay powder and glue some deposits over the furry areas to simulate spilt china clay.

From the pictures you have posted though, the layout still looks absolutely amazing and is coming together very nicely!

 

Best regards,

Jeremy

I agree with the other guys, the super glue theory sounds like a good plan. Or you could get some real china clay powder and glue some deposits over the furry areas to simulate spilt china clay.

From the pictures you have posted though, the layout still looks absolutely amazing and is coming together very nicely!

 

Thanks Jeremy - Its now been applied and painted and awaits another sanding but it has certainly cured the furriness...it would be nice to get it to a stage I feel comfortable with so I can move on with something else as its kind of getting on my nerves now

Superglue sounds like a good solution, but be very careful not to get any on the rails. You'll have a devil of a job getting it off again without damaging them.

 

Best of luck,

David

 

PS. If it's any consolation, the pictures look very good to me.

Superglue sounds like a good solution, but be very careful not to get any on the rails. You'll have a devil of a job getting it off again without damaging them.

PS. If it's any consolation, the pictures look very good to me.

 

David, hi - Thanks for your kind comments.

 

Don't download and zoom in on the pics then! The superglue seemed to go ok but I now need to resand and check running again...some more localised filling too in places. Thanks for the tip...I hope it didn't creep too much when I applied it...time will tell but at present I am having a break from it...