Workbench - Graham_Muz

Excellent, Graham - and you're right about the steps being prone to being knocked off.

 

I remember chatting with you at Camrail about the best way to fit the steps and pipework to the N15s such that they will cope with moderate curves.

Thanks for the tip, Graham, I'll look to get a set for my Wilton...

 

(which CamRail did you visit, btw, I'm usually there and can't recall you visiting?....)

Hi Tim

 

I think Al must be thinking of your SWAG Taunton do last year when I was there with Fisherton Sarum, as I have not been to the Camrail shows yet.

I got some of these a few months ago now on my Blackmoor Vale model... does improve the look of the front end and adds support to the steps.

I have made these drain pipes from brass wire for a few Bullieds but they are quite diddly and tedious to do, so will look at this etch to do the rest of the current fleet.

Correct, Graham - it was the SWAG do indeed. Sorry for the confusion!

I did fix them to the front steps knowing that it fixes the chassis to the body however doing the exhibtion circuit with Fisherton Sarum I was finding that I was knocking off the front steps more often than I needed to get the body off. When I do I will carfully separate the front steps from the buffer as it is only a couple of small points of contact. I have fitted them to all 10 of my Light Pacifics now.

Many thanks for the shout on these Graham, I've now got a few on order for some of the 2manyspams fleet. Interesting that he also does the Giesl for 34064 and the outside steampipes etc for the N Class.

Well I ordered mine on Sunday evening and they arrived in today's post. Very good service.

How do you attach the frets to the cylinders?

Myself, i drill the holes into the bottoms of the cylinder blocks and carefully glue the etches ends in with superglue.

I found the RT versions a bit too bendy and made more substantial versions from soldering brass wire