Jump to content
 
  • entries
    44
  • comments
    445
  • views
    94,024

Another Deltic Detailing project in 4mm... the first cut. P4 Deltic Pt 2


Jon020

1,865 views

The first two weeks of October has seen some distruction and a little construction in this project... but most of all there’s been an attempt at bravery in the hacking about that I’m subjecting what was a perfectly good model.... I’m guessing that the warranty is now no longer valid :( .

 

The first task tackled was that of the bonnet reprofiling... after some delicate prising out of all transparencies which generally came out with more that a little uncomfortable creaking... and removal of windscreen wipers and horns.. generally prosed out ok, but two wipers will need careful reattachment or replacing (new ones may now be tried – haven’t needed to make that decision yet dry.gif ).

 

The bonnet tops were reprofiled using files and wet/dry 600-1000 paper making reference to Brian Hanson’s fotopic site and numerous prototype references. The end result looks (to me) generally ok... and will probably look even better with the new etch doors fitted. The photo here shows some before/afters and one with an straight-out-of-the box bodyshell behind the remodelled one... showing the angle change – but I’d recommend checking this angle – I probably should’ve measured it rather than going by eye :unsure: .

 

blogentry-8351-099193900 1287082997_thumb.jpg

 

Next I widened out the buffer beam opening between the buffers, which after measuring looked as though it needed about 1.5mm extra width... and hollowed out the nose-end step, although this still needs tidying up.

 

I then removed the lower headcode brackets (to be replaced with an extreme etch) and then tackled the sandbox filler hatches. Last time, I made these a little small... scaled from the marker light. This time, I used one of the extreme etch parts, shaped (fiddly) as a template to check the approx 2mmx3mm rectangular cut outs... duly drilled and filed. Once these were done, it was evident why I’d got it wrong (too small) before, the marker lights are demunitive... compare them with a 21-pin (lights) version where they’re bigger and look more accurate. Unfortunately, I didn’t think there was an etch for these –and I certainly wasn’t brave or skilled enough :( to consider hacking off the nose and replaing it with Brian’s resin version... (one day maybe?) so I decided to try and make new ones... starting with the base. This was manufactured from Evergreen tube of about the right diameter for the height, with flats filed for the edges – and refprofiled. Into this was inserted a rod with an OD the same as the tube’s ID... that then slotted into a hole drilled into the nose of the model on the old marker lights’ centre. Simple.... actually , after the first one, it wasn’t too bad, and once cleaned up and filed to the right profile after the glue’d dried... looked ok.

blogentry-8351-080402800 1287083214_thumb.jpg

blogentry-8351-045990700 1287083245_thumb.jpg

I still need to make the lense cover and hinge (need to think how first)... but it’s a start and the proportions look so much better at the front end now. I know the headcode panel’s still about 1mm too low... but I think (or hope) the other changes will lead the eye away from this.

 

The buffer shrouds have been cut to represent the panel line and the buffers will be replaced with Hornby Class 50 ones... but not just yet.

Here's another before/after shot - the book is very good by the way!

 

blogentry-8351-014651800 1287083310_thumb.jpg

The only other change so far is the removal of the fire pull surround at the no. 1 end and a new one made from a slither of plastic tube replaced slightly further aft.

blogentry-8351-011569800 1287083351_thumb.jpg

 

Whilst I was working on the bonnet tops, I realised that the windscreen surrounds will need some work they were different sizes :blink: ... this wasn’t something that I’d planned on, but I may now look into acquiring the revised panels from Brian... although some flush glazing might be nice to set these off (hint-hint Brian). The roof fan grills are now also out – they’ll also now be replaced. So, whilst there’s not been much constructive progress so far, I’ve hacked away a lot and my nerves have stood the test. However, I’ve also added to the list of parts to add. And so it goes !

Whilst this blog started referencing a OO deltic... I’ve changed this to 4mm as I’ve ordered some P4 finescale wheels. Whether they’re ready before I need them is another matter.

Comments and suggestions welcomed.

6 Comments


Recommended Comments

Some good photos in this update as well as top modelling - well illustrated and well written. I can see your inspiration I think! (Tony?) I really should do some updates on my blog, you're putting me to shame Jon! :D

Link to comment

Thanks James.., will keep this blog running with updates. Yes I'm looking forward to seeing you 66 update. Tony? ok, you've lost me now?

 

 

Link to comment

Am I the only one who likes the juxtaposition of the title "How Steam Locomotives Really Work" on a diesel blog? :lol:

Link to comment

Horestan... it's a great read and (as an engineer at heart... still) I found some of the problems/solutions facinating. Well, hopefully you're not the only one... and I'm sure it doesn't take a diesel on top to work ;) but I thought it not an entirely inappropriate perch.

Link to comment

Hi Jon,

 

Great to see the progress so far and excellent pictures. As you have so many Deltics in your fleet it's great that you can show the before/after comparisons of your work.

 

As you know I have a few of these to do as well, although I have opted to cut the nose off and fit the resin replacements from Extreme Etchings. So I will be fixed to this blog to see your progress and to view an alternative approach.

 

One thought on the lenses for your marker lights, how about fibre-optic cable as per Fibre optic cable.

 

You can cut this down to single strand and smooth the outer casing with wet and dry to produce the light casing....exposing the fibre to produce the lens which can be painted with glass paints to produce the red lens. This way would also leave you a route to mount a light-box where convient to have them lit. I used this route on a class 47 project (no photo taken as It was for a friend) but it worked extremely well.

Just a thought that may be worth considering and cheap to trial

 

I note from your comments you've taken the plunge to move to P4.......nothing lost as the demand for wheels is high if you decide against it at the end. (one buyer here) ;)

 

Keep up the great work

Mark.......desperate to start mine!!!!!

Link to comment

Thanks Mark, I'll look into this. I had some more success in making up a marker light with plasticard, but the shaping of the surrounds is still a bit hit and miss... and getting 4 identical will be a challenge

 

UPDATE Oct 18th:

 

I had another go at the marker lights - initially I'd been hollowing out some 2mm rod with a 0.8mm drill and inserting a 0.8mm length of brass wire - glued in. Then inserting the rod into the chuck of a mini drill and using it as a lathe, with a sharp blade to shape and cut the rod to length (about 2mm). Then removing the rod and, with a smaller chuck, inserting the wire end into the chuck and repeating, but using a file to shorten the protruding wire and then chamfering the rod to form the light surround. The problem was, this is just not precise enough and the wire would only need to be slightly bent that the whole thing would be binned... as several were. This time, I selected a very round rod (they're not all the same), carefully drilled a 0.7mm hole in the very centre of the rod then in the mini drill again, but with just the plastic rod (and hence less imbalance)... shape the end (chamfer)using file and wet&dry, and then with the sharp blade (drill spinning) carefully slowly cut through behind the chamfered section at about 1.7mm and remove... a short length of 0.6mm wire is then crefully glued into this (at the rear of the hole - leaving a hollow at the front where the lens would be) and ... done. The wire extending behind the housing is then inserted into the body of the lamp housing... to give some anchoring to the body. I've now done 5 of these and there all quite repeatable... with a bit of luck I think. Now, that these are done, I may investigate the possibility of using some fibreoptic instead of the wire... via the suggestion from Mark above... however this is 1mm thick fibre and Ideally I'd like thinner - about 0.7mm max... but I'll have a look to see what's out there.

 

Thanks for the help Mark.... improvements are slowly coming to this Novice. ... perhaps I should rename this to a "Novice's Guide!" :rolleyes:

Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...