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RT Models Hudson Tipper - part 6.

halfwit

Entry posted by halfwit

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Both wagons now have their brakes fitted.

 

The first job was to fold up the two cross beams, different length beams are provided for either OO or EM/P4. The instructions tell you to assemble these together with the shoes then solder the completed assembly to the chassis, I chose to solder them directly to the underside of the sole bars, lines are half-etched on the bottom of the solebars to aid placement. It took a few attempts to get them central and square, I tacked one side and kept adjusting until I was happy. Perhaps if I build some more of these I'll make up a little jig.

Once I was happy with the beams the shoe assemblies, which simply fold up into a two piece lamination, could be sprung into place and soldered up;

 

blogentry-6749-0-79047200-1362864122_thumb.jpg

 

The next job was to form a bend in either end of the brakehangers. I used a 2.2mm drill to form the bend, after practicing on the unwanted OO hanger first (again alternative parts are provided for different gauges). .45mm brass wire is provided with the kit for the brake cross shaft, I replaced this with .6mm wire from Eileen's Emporium as I felt that the cross shaft needed more 'bulk'. As the cross shaft fits through both the shoe assemblies and the hanger I used it to check the fit and then hold the hanger in place whilst soldering the hanger to the chassis. In the pic. below the cross shaft has been left overlength, to be trimmed later, and the hanger for the second wagon can be seen in the foreground;

 

blogentry-6749-0-79145500-1362864134_thumb.jpg

 

The holes etched into the hanger allow the enclosed box which results from the hanger being fitted to be filled with liquid lead.

 

The brake levers were soldered in place next after forming to shape, note that these attach on a tag above the pivot unlike conventional wagon brakes. There's nothing in the instructions about forming the levers, they just show the lever being straight, so I worked from photographs. After fitting the levers I folded up the lever guides and soldered them under the bufferbeams;

 

blogentry-6749-0-81102400-1362864145_thumb.jpg

 

Note the stepped hanger behind the guide (admittedly quite difficult to see in the above photo), I assume that this was for chaining the wagon to the track when tipping, can anyone confirm this?

 

There's still a few more parts to be added, but they're coming along nicely and I'm really enjoying the build;

 

blogentry-6749-0-03529600-1362864158_thumb.jpg

 

Again all soldering done with a 25w Antex iron and 188 degree solder.

 

Paul.

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  • RMweb Gold
Mikkel
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They really are exquisite. Nice to see a kit that seems to have been well thought through (holes for liquid lead etc).

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  • RMweb Gold
46444
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These wagons are real labour of love.  In terms of enjoyment you certainly get your moneys worth.

 

Very neat soldering and they are goin to look great once painted and weathered.

 

Nice work once more.

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

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halfwit

Thanks for the comments, and indeed for the 'likes'. Knowing that these posts are well received makes the time spent updating this blog worthwhile.

 

Paul - complex, perhaps if you're used to plastic wagon kits. Yes there's a lot of parts to be soldered together, but producing a wagon like this in any other medium just wouldn't work, there's nothing better than sheet metal and channel sections to represent sheet metal and channel sections! Difficult, no. So far everything has fitted together nicely.

 

Mikkel - these wagons were delivered from Hudson's factory by rail, the body had to be locked in position and special permission obtained for a one-off journey. Which means that if there's a mine/colliery/foundry/quarry near Farthing and your modelers licence is up to date you could possibly get away with running one or two into the Sidings...

 

Mark - yes I'm definetely getting my moneys worth, I'm thoroughly enjoying building these!

 

Paul.

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Adam

I doubt the steps on the lever guide are for chaining the wagon down; from what I've seen of the operation of the real thing, such stability as there was available was provided by the attachment to the loco. I've certainly not seen any evidence of chains for any obvious purpose showing up in pictures unlike things like slag ladles which are rather heavier with rather more dangerous  contents. My guess (and that's all it is) is that they're present in order to get enough leverage on the brake lever to apply the brakes by means of a brake stick/shunting pole. 

 

Have you worked out how to attached the tipper to the chassis yet? Clearly it has to be after painting, but I'm not sure I know what the 'best' way might be.

 

Adam

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halfwit

Adam, I think that you are right. My thought was that the wagons might be secured to the track when tipping sticky loads like clay, but as the 'steps' are behind the lever gaurd and quite flimsy in relation to the rest of the wagon the brake stick theory makes far more sense. And anyway, Hudson's designed these wagons to be tipped easily one manned and I'm sure that they would have taken sticky loads into consideration.

 

I was just going to secure the body with a dab of epoxy after painting. Or leave them loose to rattle around when being shunted!

 

Paul.

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