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A West Country Hero


D869

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I thought it was about time we had another Hydraulic on this blog, so here goes...

 

St Ruth is set in 1965 so by rights it should be overwhelmingly populated with Warships. No problem there, we have Cockade, Hermes, Druid and Zest of various ages, plus Cossack too of course. The snag is that in 1965 they should really be green. Maroon is a bit of a stretch - the first maroon repaints appearing in September 65 so we really need some green ones.

 

The first Farish Warship I acquired was a blue D822 'Hercules' shortly after they were originally released. For some reason it has never been favoured with a finescale set of wheels and has languished in its original box apart from the odd bit of test running. Hermes and Druid were both acquired secondhand, rewheeled and set to work with no other changes in very short order to address motive power shortages at our first outing.

 

Obviously livery is one reason why it has been on the shelf for so long but another is my dissatisfaction with the Farish model. The moulding quality is superb but for me it just doesn't say 'Warship'. I think that the biggest problem is the way that the windscreens have been done - and this is most obvious on locos with full yellow ends but there are other issues too so I've decided to bite the bullet and try to make it better.

 

At the same time, I will backdate it to green livery and it will get a new name. The name I've chosen is D820 'Grenville' which was named after an Elizabethan captain belonging to a famous Devon and Cornwall family... partly because this seems like a very suitable name and partly because I don't want to sign myself up (yet) for a bunch of other Warship detail changes by stepping outside the range D813-D832. Anyway a nice set of red nameplates was purchased from Mr Shawplan at Nottingham a few weeks ago.

 

Anyway, enough of all the waffle. Let's talk about progress. So far I've just been working on improving one end so that I can figure out what works and then copy the ideas on the other end.

 

The offensive glazing unit has been removed and I'm trying out some of the replacement windscreen surrounds that I had etched last year. These were an absolute pig to draw but thankfully they fit very well. In my (subjective) opinion they are a huge improvement on the Farish effort. I've figured out some further improvements to the etch but they will need to wait until a future build.

 

I've also sliced off the handrails and replaced them with 33SWG nickel silver wire. They aren't brilliant but slightly less bad than the moulded ones. This seems to be the thinnest handrail wire available these days - whatever happened to 36SWG steel? I started by using the 'shadows' of the Farish handrails to position the holes but wasn't very happy with the ones on top of the nose so I've moved the inner holes upwards and inwards which seems to give a nicer curve that follows the shape of the nose better.

 

The central headboard bracket has been sliced off and replaced by one fabricated from 0.5mm brass wire and 5 thou N/S strip in the same way that I did for D869 several years ago. The trick here is to file away half of the end of the wire to make a 'D' shape. Cut this off and make another piece the same way and then solder the two back together so that they overlap and trap the N/S strip in between. Then just cut off the bits that you don't want and bend to the shape of the bracket. It's a lot easier than it sounds.

 

There's still more to do. I'm intending to replace the lower lamp brackets with something more three dimensional and also deepen the undercut below the headcode box. The headcode box is not a great representation of the real thing either. Ideally I'd like to attack that too but I really can't see how to do it without throwing the baby out with the bathwater so I think that I'll live with it.

 

Other plans include smoothing off the rivets at the edges of the roof panels (go and look at some photos - the real thing has countersunk or pop rivets so they are invisible in most photos). I'll probably open out the fuel fillers to make them look less flat. The cab interior needs some work - the top of the control panel should be very obvious through the windcreens but Farish's version is too low.

 

The final puzzle (for now) is the two access hatches on the cab sides. For some reason these have been moulded by using a really obtrusive groove. The real things were flush fitting panels so Farish's interpretation is as subtle as a brick. I might have a go at filling the grooves and/or representing the panels with some 5 thou plastic but so far I haven't figured out how (or if) the Farish body is painted or whether it will take Mek Pak. Anybody know?

 

Finally, a note of thanks to Brian Hanson of Shawplan for sending me a CD with more close-up photos of D821 Greyhound than you can shake a stick at.

 

That's all for now... apart from some photos of progress so far, alongside Druid which is out of the box Farish.

 

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First trial fitting - not too bad

 

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Another one of the test etches - too small

 

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Surgery underway on handrails and headboard bracket

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That is a real improvment - I've wanted to do a Warship for some time now but the Farish front just hasn't looked right somehow, your etched replacments show why.

 

Alex.

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That is a real improvment - I've wanted to do a Warship for some time now but the Farish front just hasn't looked right somehow, your etched replacments show why.

Thanks. They are certainly getting there... although I think there is still room for some improvement in the next batch.

I didn't realise until I saw this shot today that Warship windscreens were hinged for additional ventilation. ;)

Darn. And I'm also missing the big hole at the other end for the driver's head to stick out. Never seen a Warship with prototype Deltic stripes before either - DB V200 paint scheme, yes, but not Deltic.

 

Regards, Andy

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Andy,

 

If you google "Albion Alloys 0.2mm rod" you will find a number of suppliers. 0.2mm is only .007mm bigger than 36SWG so it should be close enough. Adantage is that it comes in straight lengths. I used it for all the handrails on my 08 and it worked really well even after it was painted.

I bought some of their 0.1mm rod but I haven't used it yet. The ideal for our scale would be 0.15 but I haven't traced any.

 

David

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Evening Andy,

 

I like the Farish Warship but I do remember you saying about the mess they had made of the windscreens. 

 

These etches have brought the model into another league all together. I'm looking forwards to seeing the green machine. It will certainly be a contrast to the maroon ones.

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

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If you google "Albion Alloys 0.2mm rod" you will find a number of suppliers. 0.2mm is only .007mm bigger than 36SWG so it should be close enough. Adantage is that it comes in straight lengths. I used it for all the handrails on my 08 and it worked really well even after it was painted.

I bought some of their 0.1mm rod but I haven't used it yet. The ideal for our scale would be 0.15 but I haven't traced any.

Thanks for the info David. I'll check them out. My googling was for various combinations but always 'wire', so maybe that's why I didn't turn them up.

I like the Farish Warship but I do remember you saying about the mess they had made of the windscreens. 

 

These etches have brought the model into another league all together. I'm looking forwards to seeing the green machine. It will certainly be a contrast to the maroon ones.

Thanks Mark. I wouldn't want to criticise all of their efforts - I'm sure that the windscreens are a tricky proposition for a mass produced model. On the other hand the cover plates on the cab sides should have been really easy to get right.

 

Just hope I can turn out a decent paint job. Not looking forward to masking those yellow warning panels!

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Blimey Andy, that is some serious detailing there. But well worth it judging by your initial pictures! These little improvements and additions will certainly make an improvement to the overall look of the model.

Best regards,

Jeremy

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Thanks for the info David. I'll check them out. My googling was for various combinations but always 'wire', so maybe that's why I didn't turn them up.Thanks Mark. I wouldn't want to criticise all of their efforts - I'm sure that the windscreens are a tricky proposition for a mass produced model. On the other hand the cover plates on the cab sides should have been really easy to get right.

 

Just hope I can turn out a decent paint job. Not looking forward to masking those yellow warning panels!

 

Totally agree with you. Farish along with Dapol have certainly improved in recent years giving a quality product.

 

I was thinking the same too about the warning panels. A very defined shape on an awkward shaped nose.  Be interesting to see how you overcome it.

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

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Great stuff Andy - really lifts it to another level.

 

BTW, how does the Farish compare with the original Minitrix one? My brother used to have the Trix one and despite the lemon yellow colour it was the best and smoothest running loco by far with immense pulling power. Still runs like a dream too :)

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Blimey Andy, that is some serious detailing there. But well worth it judging by your initial pictures! These little improvements and additions will certainly make an improvement to the overall look of the model.

Hope so. Like I said, time to take a knife to some modern moulded plastic :)

I was thinking the same too about the warning panels. A very defined shape on an awkward shaped nose.  Be interesting to see how you overcome it.

So will I ;)

Great stuff Andy - really lifts it to another level.

 

BTW, how does the Farish compare with the original Minitrix one? My brother used to have the Trix one and despite the lemon yellow colour it was the best and smoothest running loco by far with immense pulling power. Still runs like a dream too :)

Thanks. Cockade and Zest are both modified Trix items retro-fitted with 5 pole motors and with some extensive surgery to their bodywork and their little Germanic chassis skirts. They are built like tractors (farmyard machines, not class 37s) so will probably outlast me.

 

The original Trix nose shape is well wide of the mark but so far I've maintained that my modified ones do a better job of saying 'Warship' than the unmodified Farish model in spite of their remaining dimensional issues. I think that I'm finally making some progress in changing that state of affairs now. Nevertheless I reckon that the Trix ones will still be running when the Farish mechanisms have given up the ghost. I also etched some 'specs' for the Trix bodies because I've been hankering after that polished metal window surround look ever since I first started looking seriously at prototype photos. Cockade's plastikard skirts were not too well thought out and will likely part company soon so it will be in the works for some bodywork repairs, at which time it may also get some 'specs'.

 

On the subject of Trix pulling power, I recall that my first loco kit was an (ABS?) whitemetal 03 on a Minitrix dock tank chassis. We had it pulling seven 4mm scale coaches with no problems when the Hornby 4mm scale pancake motored stuff was struggling to keep its feet with half the load.

 

Must stop rambling.

 

Regards, Andy

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Nice work, Andy. Are you going to be making these etches available so we can all join in?

 

I have always felt that the Farish warship looked a bit tall. Any thoughts on that?

 

Chris

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Nice work, Andy. Are you going to be making these etches available so we can all join in?

I have always felt that the Farish warship looked a bit tall. Any thoughts on that?

Thanks Chris.

 

The current etches are most definitely experimental and I doubt whether most folks would like paying for 6 windscreen frames of which only two actually fit but I do plan to revise the artwork and get some more done because I have more locos of my own to do. I certainly won't be opposed to running off some extra copies if other people want some.

 

Apart from some very small adjustments to the curves, I plan to thicken the frames a tad and also redistribute the current 'margin' so that half of it is above the window frame. The real loco has no perceptible 'margin' at all but I think that it's better to have a clear separation between the frame and the plastic bodywork to allow some room for glue, paint meniscus etc.

 

I couldn't remember off the top of my head how the Farish offering matches up to true scale so I measured Hermes which sits on reprofiled Farish wheels (because you can't get drop-ins for the Warship). The prototype dimensions are from the Ian Allen plans book and also the (excellent) 'Book of the Warships', both of which agree... and scaled to 'N'.

 

Height to top of roof - 26.9mm (ish). Prototype 12'9 1/2" = 26.4mm

Width over body - 18.4mm. Prototype 8' 8 1/2" = 18.0mm

Bogie Centres - 78mm (ish). Prototype 37'9" = 77.9mm

Over buffers - 123.3mm. Prototype 60' = 123.8mm

 

So roughly 2-3% overscale on both height and width but the proportions of the front should be about right. It will look a shade high next to a scale vehicle but in terms of front end appearance I'd say that the over thick corner pillars on the cab are the biggest thing that will mess up the perceived proportions when you look at it without the aid of a ruler.

 

Regards, Andy

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I certainly would like three sets of etches to go with my Warships.

 

A scale 3" too high on the loco probably is noticeable when sat next to a coach. Must get out a Warship, a Farish Mk1 and take a look at the relative roof heights.

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I certainly would like three sets of etches to go with my Warships.

 

A scale 3" too high on the loco probably is noticeable when sat next to a coach. Must get out a Warship, a Farish Mk1 and take a look at the relative roof heights.

I'll put you down for some then.

 

I just tried the Warship and Mark 1 test (7mm diameter wheels). The book says that the coach roof panels should be 5 inches lower than the Warship roof panels, so we're guessing that it will actually be closer to a scale 8 inches. It's tricky to measure but I'd say it's thereabouts.

 

Regards, Andy

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Very nice Work. It's amazing how a little amount of work can make such a big difference.

Thanks. Fitting the etch is pretty simple... but getting the artwork right was a bit of a nightmare. Still, once the artwork is sorted then fitting the etch to lots of locos should be nice and quick.

 

Regards, Andy

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