This covers the start of planning and building a Toad (GWR Brake Van) for the layout. Not one of the usual Toads (from Association kits), which come in 20 and 24 feet lengths, with four or six wheels and a capacity of 16 to 25 tons, but the earlier outside-framed variant with a length of 18 feet and capacity of 10 tons.
This is one I did earlier - not finished yet (missing buffers, couplings, handrail, and with the roof still loose), and flawed by a couple of mistakes in the construction process. I will attempt to provide a few step-by-step pictures and descriptions of the process over this and a couple more blog articles.
Prototype
Built prior to 1888, with an initial capacity of 10 tons. Some (about 50) were upgraded around 1919 to 12 tons, being fitted with self-contained buffers, and receiving the diagram number of AA16 (the initial version had no diagram number - when the diagram book started around 1904 many older vehicles were omitted).
Details (though rather scanty) in GWR Goods Wagons by Atkins, Beard, Hyde and Touret ("Atkins"), including a photograph and drawing. A larger version of the photograph appears in Great Western Wagons Appendix by Russell ("RWA"). Date of the photograph is unclear - Atkins suggests 1888, RWA suggests 1900.
Unlike more modern Toads, they had grease axleboxes. Although Atkins indicates that twin clasp brakes were standard from the early days, the photograph shows conventional wagon-type brakes.
Justification
In the period I am modelling (1900-1910) most GWR brake vans appear to have been of the AA3 variety - 18 ft long, 16 or 20 ton capacity - and 500 of these were built between 1889 and 1901. However, I believe that the traffic on my layout would probably not have followed this pattern - a large proportion of the freight was fitted, and would probably have had some of the vacuum-piped "A" versions from the AA2 diagram (278 built 1902-1910), whilst the light local freight would have been a good candidate for the older lighter (undiagrammed) Toad which I cover here.
Components needed
Etch from David Eveleigh (see small suppliers in the products section of the 2mm web site for contact details, but I don't think the entry is up-to-date).
Also required
Top hat bearings - 4 for the wheels, and (optionally) several for alignment of multi-level etches for soldering
Wheels - 2 axles of 2-010 6mm 8 spoke (technically they should be 6.2 mm for 3 ft 1 in, but I think this is close enough)
Buffers - According to Atkins et al, the typical buffers in use at this time would have had a 1 ft disc and a 3 in shank within a round unribbed buffer guide, on a square base. Availability of Association buffers varies, so "nearest available fit" will change from time to time - I have some 2-072 (turned brass, round base, 2.1mm head) which I intend to use.
Couplings - I use DG (2-110)
Brass wire - about 8 inches of thin wire for handrails - I will probably use some surplus from the DG coupling packs, as I only fit loops at one end.
Brake handle (in the verandah) - probably the "short brake standard" from N Brass Locomotives, which looks like a suitable match (Thanks to Richard Brummitt for the suggestion)
Livery
Probably conventional GWR grey, though I think Great Western Way suggests brown was used in earlier days (pre-1896 as I recall from skimming a copy recently). This would include the underframe. According to the photograph, the handrail appears to be grey, unlike the white used on later versions. Though the roof is nominally white, I would expect it to have darkened to grey/black (unless the van was recently painted, which this probably wouldn't be).
Lettering (white)
"G.W.R" (note no trailing ".") in 5 inch block capitals (without serif) on lower left, with number in similar size and style on lower right (excluding the verandah area). Photographed example is numbered "12009", so it is likely that 120xx would be a suitable number. Allocated station (Newport in the photo) is shown in centre of the side, in italics/script - will probably be "Wellington" in my case, though I have my doubts how legible that will be in italic script in 2mm (i.e. about 0.8 mm high).
Alternatives lettering styles
Cast plates were used for GWR and numbers around 1896 to 1902 - it's possible that this style might have been applied to some of these brake vans, but unlikely, as I think it was used only on new production.
After 1904 the name style changed to "G W" in large (25 inch) letters, which would probably have been applied in the first repaint after 1904. The G and W were placed in the upper/ecntre part of the left and right panels, and the number moved from bottom right to bottom left.
The number was generally also painted on the ends of the wagons after 1904, in similar 5 inch size, but it seems unlikely to have been applied to brake vans in this manner.
Additional details (optional)
Sandboxes in the corners of the verandah, with straight sandpipes (for wet sand - curved pipes for dry sand were adopted after WW I), but none indicated on the example photographed.
Making a start
The usual exhortation "read the instructions (several times)" doesn't apply here, as there are no instructions provided. Instead, study the etch (several times), and work out which bits go where, which bits to discard, and which bits to assemble first.
I decided it was probably safe to fit the top hat bearings, so I did that in my now-usual style - ream out the holes large enough for the bearings to fit in (but still remain fairly tight), then holding the etch firmly down on the bearings add a little solder around the bearing (solder paint in my case - others may prefer solder plus flux) and apply heat with the soldering iron.
The etch, with top hat bearings soldered in
The underframe can then be cut out and the solebars bent up. With my first build I chose to leave the V-hangers alone at this stage, and continue with the assembly of the solebars, returning to the v-hangers and brakes later, but on the second one I did the V-hangers and brakes next.
The tabs on the brakes help to locate the first one correctly to the underframe, then the second one to both underframe and the first brake, but will probably need a bit of cleaning to ensure the two halves fit together. There are some holes which can be reamed out in the v-hangers and the brakes, through which a wire can be threaded to assist in holding them in the right position, and also to provide extra detail, but I omitted this step (although I reamed out the holes as much as I dared, I don't have any wire small enough for the holes).
The three odd leaf-shaped pieces attached to each of the inner solebars serve no obvious purpose, so I removed them.
Wheels inserted, and W-irons bent in/out as appropriate to ensure that they rotate freely.
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