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1364


The Fatadder

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At the weekend’s SWAG members day I couldn’t resist buying a pre production 1361 from Kernow Models. At the time I was rather spoiled for choice, as there were both painted and unpainted options available (all non running). In the end I decided that I have enough painting backlog, and would be best served buying 1364 in post war GW livery.
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There are a few areas which will need to be fixed, it is missing coupling hooks, a lamp iron and a hand rail, there are also a couple of areas on the metal chassis which will need the paint touching up. In addition the slide bars need regluing into position, and some slop needs to be taken out of the wheels to improve running.

 

Then of course eventually it needs to be powered…. After reading about the unpainted versions coming with motors but various wiring faults stopping them running I had hoped I might get lucky, I didn’t. After dismantling the loco retrofitting a motor looks like it will be tricky (and by the time the missing gears have also been added, I suspect expensive. In this case that is completely fine, the loco is intended to be attached to a Newton Abbot – Laira goods as a way of getting 1364 back home after receiving an overhaul and a shiny new coat of GWR green with post war branding. As such the lack of motor actually rather helps in saving me having to correctly consist 1364 with the pannier or 43xx that is hauling the train.
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  • RMweb Gold

I will try and take a better photo before I put the keeper plate back on, once I saw how tight the space for the motor is (and how many gears were needed) I pretty much gave up my thoughts of motorising and decided against dismantling. There is certainly a lot of cast metal inside the model.

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You might want to ask CSP Models if their 1361 and 1366 kits are ready for release - they might be able to supply you with a chassis pack.

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  • RMweb Gold

If you were to scratchbuild a chassis, Rich (it's surely pretty basic and you could use the DJM cylinders), is there enough room in the body for a High Level gearbox and a Mashima or similar motor?

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Hi Fatadder,

 

If you want to tow this one dead in a train, you will have to remove the rods and cross heads as GWR locos can't be towed long distances with no fire in. The hydrostatic displacement lubricator needs steam to get oil to the valves and pistons and as such these are always disconnected to prevent damage.

 

I hope this helps!

 

All the best,

 

Castle

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  • RMweb Gold

Thanks for that, I think I will remove them for now (and ensure they are packed away somewhere safe).  It will certainly help as there is a lot of slop in the mechanism, with the lead wheel fouling the crosshead.  I was planning to resolve by adding spacers to the axle, but removing the crosshead and rods will work equally well. 

 

That said, I wont do it for a while.  For the moment it looks rather nice on the shelf!

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