Not quite the right way up, but here's the first cut of a major bit for a project that I'm working on.
It's intended to be part of a 2mm scale model of a 10T class B tank as built by Hurst Nelson from circa 1907 at least until the 1920s.
The general idea is to do something similar to the Octel chlorine tanks (also from Hurst Nelson as it happens) that I built last year, namely an etched kit for the chassis and other ironwork and 3d printing for the tank and wooden packing.
Most of this project will be covering familiar territory, but there are two potential differences. Firstly and obviously the rivets - the Octel tanks were welded and didn't even have any visible seams whereas these tanks have very obvious rivets facing along all three axes. Secondly, this prototype is potentially of interest to more people so it would be nice to figure out how to make it available to others.
Rivets... my experience with FUD tells me that I will need to rub down the printed tanks in order to remove the stepping marks and evidence of the support wax. My current plan is to leave most of the rivets off the final print and then add them using Archer transfers after rubbing down.
Maybe Shapeways and FUD are not the only options?
- There have been some nice results shown on here using stereolithography but as far as I can see that needs a subject with a flat base... which probably rules out tank wagons.
- FXD has become available since my last order from Shapeways. This may help but as far as I can see only offers an improvement on one of the three axes
Basically... is there any way (today) to get an acceptable 3d print including the rivets?
FYI, the tank will be around 35mm long and a little over 11mm diameter.
Assuming that the hurdle of producing one acceptable tank with rivets can be overcome, I'm also pondering the question of resin casting clones from it. This is something that I've never done before. A couple of questions spring immediately to mind...
- is it reasonable to think that I could DIY resin cast something like this?
- alternatively, would a specialised caster be able to use a master made of (say) FUD which had Archer transfers plus some layers of paint or varnish?
- what effect would the rivets have on the practicality of resin casting, either DIY or otherwise?
If resin casting proves too difficult or expensive then making the model available using 3d printed parts would be another option but this will most likely mean that every model built will need to have Archer rivets applied by the builder.
Your thoughts on the above questions would be appreciated.