RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted October 21, 2009 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2009 I've just been reminded that one of the major issues with the last layout was that I left working out how to connect the baseboards until the last minute, something I really need to get out of the way early this time round. I'm just wondering what is the best option. Basicly I need something which not only is accurate and reliable (given its P4 track the joints really need to be spot on), but also needs to be pretty easy to fit (I cant stand working with wood, so want the job to be as quick and easy as possible.) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bigcheeseplant Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 We have used patten makers dowls the big 25mm diameter ones with over centre clips on the inside of the baseboards, quick and easy. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 96701 Posted October 21, 2009 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2009 We have used patten makers dowls the big 25mm diameter ones with over centre clips on the inside of the baseboards, quick and easy.David Me too. I use Peco Code 75. I joined the baseboards, laid the track without securing it, then marked out where the rails were, lifted the track and put small brass screws in under where the rails go as close to the baseboard edges as I could. I tinned the rails, put the track back down, adjusted the screws to the correct height(obviously I had to strip some sleeper base off)tinned the screw heads, laid the track, soldered the rails to the screws, then cut through the rails at the baseboard joint with a razor saw. The tracks line up exactly every time I put the baseboards together, even where one of the tracks crosses the baseboard joint at an angle. Editted to say that all the above was gleaned from people on this forum. Before I joined RMweb, I had no idea how to do any of it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackRat Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 I have used very large dowels (actually a broom handle!) and a coresponding 'female' bit on the other board. Two of these seem to do the trick and not encountered any probs at all! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted October 22, 2009 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 22, 2009 I have used very large dowels (actually a broom handle!) and a coresponding 'female' bit on the other board. Two of these seem to do the trick and not encountered any probs at all! I like the sound of that idea, nice and simple! off to buy something suitable for the dowel this afternoon..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coombe Barton Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 The EM Gauge Society do baseboard locators - metal pin and hole that screw to the ends of baseboards - totally repeatable joins. ??4.40 for one baseboard join (2 joiner pairs) - next place where non-members can buy is Expo EM South Portsmouth) on 28th November - http://www.emgs.org/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted October 22, 2009 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 22, 2009 The EM Gauge Society do baseboard locators - metal pin and hole that screw to the ends of baseboards - totally repeatable joins. ??4.40 for one baseboard join (2 joiner pairs) - next place where non-members can buy is Expo EM South Portsmouth) on 28th November - http://www.emgs.org/ Sounds a much finer approach, but requiring a lot more effort to achieve reliable operation. Using the dowel method sounds nice and simple (and given my hatred of wood that is really appealing), clamp boards together so that they are flat, drill 20mm hole to match 20mm dowel. glue dowel in place. job done... One of these days I will get round to trying out my design for a metal framed baseboard, should be a dam site easier to get what I am after than with wood! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
smudgeloco Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 I used 1/2" thick dowels as joiner/aligners. Drilled through both pieces to be joined. Using a drill bit that made a snug fit for the dowel. I glued and pinned the dowel in one board. I believe there is a tutorial in one of the links below. I also used case catches for pulling the base boards together and holding them locked together. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackRat Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 My broom handle cost a lot less that the EM society dowels, did all of my joints and are far stronger I'll wager! The two end cross members (in my case 1" mdf) are clamped together and the holes drilled for the broom handle so both sides match exactly. The handle is then pva'd in. Rock solid and virtually indestructable, accurate, cheap and as simple as it gets. Similar to Smudge by the sound of it! ps since they were last moved I havent even bothered with the wing nuts etc to secure them, there has been no need! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penlan Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 We have used patten makers dowls the big 25mm diameter ones with over centre clips on the inside of the baseboards, quick and easy.David Same method, except my over centre clips are on the outside, these are also used to clip end boards on to two baseboards facing each other when the layout is transported to exhibitions etc. When I take the layout down this weekend I will do some photo's..... Penlan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Oldddudders Posted October 23, 2009 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 23, 2009 When Model Railroader magazine did their 2009 project layout, the Milwaukee Beer Line, they opted for a series of modules, which they can configure in at least 3 different ways. Clearly this calls for the dowel-type accuracy, but to actually hold the elements together, they used the cheap sort of DIY clamps designed for quick attachment & release. I will certainly be testing this in the near future when my next layout gets off the ground. Not that I'm ever going to exhibit my layout, but it does sound like a great way for those "on the road" to get the quality result exhibitions demand. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ian J. Posted October 23, 2009 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 23, 2009 Before I went on modelling hiatus, I was working on fitting dowels to my layout's boards. I've gone with the C&L type, and from where I got to it seems to be just about right. Not cheap though (especially when something like twenty four boards have to be done ) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penlan Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 So to expand on my previous reply, and this is only one of the very many ways that can be used..... The Penlan (ne?© Hartwell) system of connecting baseboards together was evolved to make accurate connections every time and transport to/from exhibitions quick, easy and safe as possible. EDIT - Also all the boards are the same size 3' x 2', although I have altered 3 boards to 3' x 2'6" recently, but the 2' x 2' end covers are still used, mind you 3' x 2' was easy to handle by yourself, those extra 6" are a *****. Thus we went for EMGS dowels, with Over-Centre (OC) clips on the outside of the base-boards. The baseboards are attached by the same OC clips to 2' x 2' end covers for transport, to date (20years) they have proved very reliable. Curtains for the front of the layout normally cover the OC clips and are held in place with Velcro strip attached to the front of the layout / top of curtains, easy to whip the curtains off at the end of an exhibition. There is one base board that has legs at both ends, all the others piggy back off that one, the legs have two verticals and two cross pieces, the top one also forms a resting place for the baseboard edge - there??™s an OC clip in red circle that holds the top cross piece in place and a butterfly nut keeping the ???brace??™ in place. The sequence to dismantle is to attach end cover (End Cover #1), then lower that end onto floor (Start Crate Up), remove legs, then add second baseboard (Almost Crated Up), then add top cover, and we have the unit (Crated Up) ready to move. As can be (almost) seen, each board end has a unique reference number, A,B,C??¦??¦. and then each end is either ???X??™ or ???Y??™, the end covers have corresponding letters (because not all the OC clip??™s match up). These references are also used for electrical connections between boards, thus there??™s AY1, AY2, AY3, AY4 on the wiring diagrams. Penlan -- PS Sorry about the shaky Camera - it was Free Beer at Lunch time...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
smudgeloco Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 Penlan, those are the same type of clips I use, but, bless my soul - I never would have thought of using them for the legs! That's me off to the hardware store - again. Ain't the forum amazing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penlan Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 - I never would have thought of using them for the legs! That's me off to the hardware store - again. Ain't the forum amazing. We did not have them on Hartwell and when turning the boards on edge to dismatle etc, the legs were dropping out of the slots in the baseboard edge and 'revolving' around the 'brace' connection, I fitted the OC clip just to make life a bit easier, I seemingly had more control of my envioromnment (end of jargon), especially if I was by myself - at home or the the others had gone to get the van or pub or.......... (I suppose I had better take some more photo's, but I will wait till the tremors have gone - hair of the dog..... ). Penlan EDIT - The system is quick - Geoff Endicott did notice at the SWAG do this year in Taunton - see http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=33785&hilit=swag+taunton&start=200 about 1/4 way down page, my posting, and starting 'BIG TIC'....... and Geoff's reply further down. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greengiant Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 For me I find brass dowels, M6 bolts and T nuts work perfectly. Clamp your two adjoining end boards together, drill two 7mm holes and two 7.5mm holes. Before unclamping insert your T nuts and tighten with the bolt. Take them apart and tap in the male and female brass dowels. Note these are not fully tapped home yet. For track holding across the join I glued and pinned PCB, then cut with a wizzy disk (still to be done in this picture), lines up every time. The layout is DCC so soldered the bus wires to the T nuts, therefore no electrical baseboard joints needed. Job done Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 does anyone have a shot of the EM gauge society dowels please? thanks Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coombe Barton Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 does anyone have a shot of the EM gauge society dowels please? thanks Mike EMGS vintage 2009 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Phew, thanks John, I ordered a load of them today then worried they were not that type. thanks for putting my mind at rest. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coombe Barton Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Just hope that they haven't changed pattern in the last five years Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mike Bellamy Posted January 23, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 23, 2014 Our Club bought them direct from the manufacturer John Burn and Co - this link give details but not prices - I seem to recall that with VAT postage etc they worked out at under £5 for two pegs and 2 plates but we had to order 100 sets! http://www.johnburn.co.uk/product.php?grpId=308 Many years ago we got them for nothing as one of our members worked in a foundry where they were used for their original purpose as Pattern Makers Dowels and the company rep gave him a box full! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Lads in our club have recently bought a load of number 69 for their new layout, that is what I was about to order from John Burn, for 40 which is what I need, it would have worked out at £250 including postage. but I then remembered the EM society did them, ok no 70 so a little smaller, but for the same amount has worked out at just over £150 including postage. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted April 24, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 24, 2015 Lads in our club have recently bought a load of number 69 for their new layout, that is what I was about to order from John Burn, for 40 which is what I need, it would have worked out at £250 including postage. but I then remembered the EM society did them, ok no 70 so a little smaller, but for the same amount has worked out at just over £150 including postage. Presumably one has to be an EMGS member to purchase the dowels? Cheers, Mick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coombe Barton Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 If you go to an Expo (May Bracknell, September, Manchester) your admission makes you a member fo your visit and so you can buy them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kris Posted April 24, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 24, 2015 Presumably one has to be an EMGS member to purchase the dowels? Cheers, Mick Very similar ones are available elsewhere. Just google pattern makers dowels to get several hits. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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