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Do figures belong in here?


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May I add to all this with some examples from a couple of projects I have been helping out with recently.  First, a supply of various 4mm scale Edwardian figures, and second a selection of (mixed manufacture) figures for the 1940's layout.

 

My painting methods have changed over the years and now include face detail as much as I can, and some subtle highlighting on the clothing with a dry brushing technique together with a hint of dark wash in crevices here and there.. I always enamel matt varnish afterwards and generally first cut off the metal 'pegs' and re-base all figures with 0.5mm brass wire rod drilled and super glue into one of the figures' feet[attachment) to assist layout location. attachicon.gifDSCN1596a.jpg

 

Excellent figures and subtle painting.  If these figures are in your current range, I have overlooked them until now. 

 

I particularly like the university students, but I think we have to impose a realism penalty for the fact that none of them appears to be drinking.

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I particularly like the university students, but I think we have to impose a realism penalty for the fact that none of them appears to be drinking.

 

Remember, these date from the days before all day drinking!

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May I add to all this with some examples from a couple of projects I have been helping out with recently.  First, a supply of various 4mm scale Edwardian figures, and second a selection of (mixed manufacture) figures for the 1940's layout.

 

My painting methods have changed over the years and now include face detail as much as I can, and some subtle highlighting on the clothing with a dry brushing technique together with a hint of dark wash in crevices here and there.. I always enamel matt varnish afterwards and generally first cut off the metal 'pegs' and re-base all figures with 0.5mm brass wire rod drilled and super glue into one of the figures' feet[attachment) to assist layout location. attachicon.gifDSCN1596a.jpg

 

Who's figures were the track gang please?

 

Thanks

 

Gordon A

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I am intrigued as to what the track worker is carrying that's a bright red and green - he really jumps out from the rest of the group (in their collection of brown and blue work-wear)

 

Is he not the look-out carrying rolled up red and green flags?

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Just catching up with this thread again..

 

The red and green items are indeed the flags carried by the lookout. A Dart Monty's figure.  The track gang is a mix of Edwardian workers and Period figures from our range.  Some of these are not on the website yet as I havn't updated it for ages. ED3 has the 4 workers sat around all wearing flat caps.  

 

The University students are mostly Dart Monty's figures with any hats cut off and hair re-sculptured following some photos I used for reference.  These together with the track working gang are now all planted on John Holden's Liverpool Lime Street layout.  I am currently preparing the next 150 or so figures for Lime Street itself, with many conversions and modelling additions to standard PG and Dart figures. I am adding suitcases, brief cases and luggage to quite a few figures having produced a set of 10 mixed loose luggage and bags in resin for the range. 

 

The lipstick is not intentional. I am aware of it. It is just a painting style I used to have to emphasise facial features.  Probably over did it.  I have since toned this back a bit by using washes together with lighter colour highlighting. 

 

Cheers

 

Pete

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The Suits are upon us.

 

A good option for the 'Modern Image' Modeller:

 

http://www.shapeways.com/product/9T9YKSBJ7/1-72-man-in-suit-set?optionId=56330047

 

 

In which case, shouldn't they be in subfusc?

Rather than 8 different figures, isn't it one figure in 8 different poses? A layout inhabited by identical clones would be a bit creepy!

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In which case, shouldn't they be in subfusc?

  

Remember, these date from the days before all day drinking!

Some of the drunkest people I've ever seen have been in subfusc though if you're modelling it correctly, you'll need a red blob for the carnation!

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Some of the drunkest people I've ever seen have been in subfusc though if you're modelling it correctly, you'll need a red blob for the carnation!

 

You're possibly right, but I don't remember very clearly.

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Just about to start a selection of figures for my new layout, 20's/30's types needed, plus crew and staff. Gathering figures from several makers mainly in whitemetal material, plus a few plastic for coach passengers etc.

 

I will post examples as each batch is prepared and painted, and hope any tips are useful to figure painting in all scales. I used to commercially paint Military figures, but in the larger scales, but many methods scale down well to 4mm painting.

 

Before painting, consider each figure carefully and check the pose. Most makers are OK, but some leave the castings with a distinct look of standing before a firing squad!

 

Often it is simply moving feet farther apart, or one foot forward to ease the stance, but also make sure the figure is standing correctly when "Planted", leaning forward, never backward. If possible the body should be forward at the waist to "balance" the figure. Such small alterations are easy with white metal figures, and may be possible with Styrene plastic figures, not soft vinyl types.

 

Hats can be added with low melt solder, dabbed on and carved to shape, if wrong then it melts off and try again,

 

Arms are usually well catered for on most makers, but be wary of some of the large range by Langley, the proportions can be a bit odd, but are correctable. They tend to have a stiff pose, and rather long backs, and arms.

 

I drill the legs for brass wire to be fitted for mounting, and use the wires to fit to a jig for painting.

 

The figures are cleaned and sprayed with red oxide car undercoat in a thin coat. This is followed by a thin coat of matt black, which is the basis of any shadows and dark areas on the final figure.

 

The main colours are painted in by sable brush to suit, leaving the black in the crevices and undersides of each part. a darker shade is then applied to the shadows, and a lighter shade to highlighted areas.

 

The faces are tackled next, with various tones, highlighted cheeks and nose, darker eye sockets, and under the chin. Eyes are added by a pin dipped in acrylic black, which if wrong can be washed off. Each upper socket is over painted to just across the black dot with flesh shade.

 

Hair is done last, main colour, then highlights by dry brush, same for beards etc., and finally any hat.

 

The whole head is then very, very, finely dry brushed in white to just catch any highlights. Lips usually do not show in 4mm scale, unless on a ladies face, but do not over do the lips.

 

Try to aim for all the figures having a certain limited range of colours, and use pastel shades, never a pure artists colour, blend each shade before use, and try to keep the figures to have a "house " appearance. Clothes should not be just one colour, build up several shades to give life to the garments.

 

The black undercoat should only just be  visible once finished, leaving a convincing 3D look to the figures. final touches can be extra shading on areas in shadow, and undersides of arms etc. White dry brushing highlights can be added with extreme care. Details like buttons are done last, picked out in brighter colours, or even metallic finish. I then airbrush the whole figure in satin varnish mixed with a spot of matt, too matt and marks may show on handling.

 

All the work is done with reading glasses, and a magnifying lens on a stand in front of well illuminated figures. It then helps to take a close up digital picture, it can be revealing as to mistakes! It will be a few days before the first batches are done for example shots.

 

Stephen.

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  • 1 month later...

.. I'm humbled by the recent examples of figure painting shared here. However, to keep the thread alive and hopefully invite more contributions, I've added photos of previously painted figures 'in action' on our layout, many of the figures coming more to life just by appearing to talk to each other or by doing some mundane jobs!

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.. I'm humbled by the recent examples of figure painting shared here. However, to keep the thread alive and hopefully invite more contributions, I've added photos of previously painted figures 'in action' on our layout, many of the figures coming more to life just by appearing to talk to each other or by doing some mundane jobs!

 

Well, I would say that I am glad you have posted some more figures and that I like them very much.  It is easy to overdo highlighting and shading, and sometimes an excess of technique, dry-brushing, inking or dipping or outlining, can lead to a more or less stylised figure that is ultimately no more realistic than one painted in flat colours.

 

I would say that your effects, which show up particularly well in the lower pair of photographs, are subtle and, therefore, appear most natural to my eyes.

 

I can offer another contribution in return.

 

I have finished some more Aidan Campbell.  They are a bit bulky, but full of character, though the faces of the children pictured lack finesse, shall we say.  I also found another Mike Pett Supercast figure, this time the flower seller; she is my tribute to Mrs Cobbit, late of Trumpton.

 

By way of contrast, I have tried to back-date a couple of Dapol figures, Geoff (right) and Bert (left).  Height and heft wise, these are one of the better matches to the 'true-scale' Stadden Edwardians, so should mix comfortably with those.  

 

Slightly taller, but not too tall, are the nominally 1/72nd Preiser 1925 airline set, which I have converted to produce a Naval Rating (arms re-positioned, and kit bag), Delivery-man, Horse-man (converting overalls to waistcoat and shirt and Greenstuff flat-cap), Yeomanry officer, and Lady (a 1920s lady provided with lengthened skirt and boater).

 

Finally, I found some Victorian Naval Brigade figures.  They have no railway application, but I painted them up for fun, as the subject appealled.

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Terrific figure painting there and would knock my futile attempts into a cocked hat but I can't say I was excited by that deformed looking bunch in the second picture and I certainly wouldn't like to meet any of 'em up a dark alley !

 

Cheers.

 

Allan.

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  • 3 weeks later...
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At last. Figures that actually look human!

 

Excellent presentations and well painted.

 

Cheers.

 

Allan.

 

Thanks for the kind comment on the painting Allan - their method of scanning from life is so cool - it's got endless possibilities! Now if only I could get a seagull to stand still long enough to be scanned!

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Thanks for the kind comment on the painting Allan - their method of scanning from life is so cool - it's got endless possibilities! Now if only I could get a seagull to stand still long enough to be scanned!

Surely someone must have a stuffed one you can borrow.

 

Cheers.

 

Allan.

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Surely someone must have a stuffed one you can borrow.

 

Cheers.

 

Allan.

 

I have some stuffed ptarmigan in a display case at home (it's a long story involving my Scottish ancestors!) - maybe I could press one of them into use.

 

I've got a feeling I'll get carried away and end up with a scan of myself covered in birds flocking onto outstretched arms.

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I'm in need of just a few 4mm/ft people to help me work out building spacings and whatnot before I go much further with my layout, but what to get when I'm on a tight budget?  I'd love a few ModelU ones, but I can't begin to justify £3 per upainted figure.  At the other extreme, the Dapol ones are cheap'n'cheerful but I'm not at all keen on figures posed in the middle of doing something.  However, I can't find anybody who makes pre-Beeching station staff or passengers who are just standing around looking vaguely human, and at a reasonable price.  Is there such a thing?

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I have been making my own figures for some time now from Miliput. Some are pretty basic but each figure is unique. Here is a family group waiting for the train, I am making at the moment. The kids still need to be built up and then they all need tidying up before painting.

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