Best motors for Tillig Elite points

[Enanjay]

I'll be using Tillig Elite points on my next OO gauge layout.

 

I've tested both Fulgarex and Tillig slow action point motors recently. The Fulgarex don't seem to be strong enough to create a strong bond between the point blade and stock rail, whilst the Tillig motor (even with adjustment) only just gets there.

Is there another make I should try before committing to buy 20+ motors ?

I'm not using DCC so no complications there.

There is an option to use some of my old Seep solenoid spring latching motors with Tillig points, but I'm worried that the strong solenoid "thump" would destroy the tie bar on the Tillig point...

 

Anyone have any ideas or experiences ?

 

Nick

[Mick Bonwick]

Now you've done it! Millions of opinions are about to come your way . . . . . . . .

 

Here's mine; Cobalt or Tortoise. Both can have the spring wire replaced with something more substantial if you find you need more pressure, but I don't think you will.

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

...The Fulgurex don't seem to be strong enough to create a strong bond between the point blade and stock rail...

 How much force does the point mechanism need? A single motor will move a pair of code 75 kit points arranged as a crossover - four continuous n/s point blades to bend - and that's running the motor on a supply regulated well below 12V so it runs slowly and queitly.

[Guest]

I used Minx Microdrives with 4 Tillig Elite large radius points on a previous layout. Easy to set up, lots of adjustment, I'd thoroughly recommend them BUT... I only needed 2 packs (4 motors). You might find the cost eye-watering if you need 10 packs. Could be worth a look though.

[Oakydoke]

Use Tortoise or Cobalt.

Servo's should work well too.

Solenoids are a big no no.

[Gordon A]

I am surprised at your lack of success with the Fulgurex point motors.

 

They do need a drop of light oil on the motor bearings and the screw thread.

I found that they work well on hand built points where the blades are flexed rather than pivoted on hand built code 75 point work.

 

Gordon A

Bristol

[Richard Pike]

I am currently installing Tortoise motors to my Tillig points and find they are working very well.

[57xx]

There's also the slow mo motors from Conrad to consider.

[Anthony]

I have used both Tortoise and Tillig's own motors.  I have found that Tortoise don't really have quite enough throw to ensure good blade contact unless installed with 1mm precision, which is not that easy.

 

Tillig motors are an absolute pig to adjust, but when you get it right, they do seem to do the job better than Tortoise, and are easier to install generally, and easier to adjust the installation position.

 

Tillig also have an advantage in being shallower where space is short.

 

Good luck with whatever you choose!  Tillig track, as you have discovered, is brilliant!

 

Anthony

[Wacol]

I've used tillig points and point motors for several years. The only failures have been a couple
of split gears which tillig sent me replacements for at no charge. The wiper contacts can be a
bit iffy but I clean and adjust before installation and have had very few problems. The more you
operate them, the less problems. What better excuse to go and play trains.

 

The motors are relatively easy to instal, just make sure the slot in the baseboard under the throw
bar is long enough for the operating pin to travel its full throw. I mark and drill a centre hole
about 4mm, then swing the drill back and forth in the appropriate directions to elongate the hole,
then finish off with a rat tail file. This is in 9mm ply baseboards by the way.

 

They are noisy but a lower voltage cuts that back a bit but at least I know that the motor
has operated.

[Enanjay]

Thanks for your replies everyone - I've fiddled around a bit more with Fulgarex, Tortoise and Tillig motors over the last couple of days and I've decided to go with Tillig - mainly because (as Anthony says above) the throw with the Tillig motor is that bit better and shallower - which is ideal because my fiddle yard will be below the main boards.

 

It's now onto some serious track planning... somewhere in the Crewkerne area - a mainline LSWR junction station with an imaginary GWR branch north towards to the GWR mainline and southwards to Bridport.  I have about 27 x 20ft to play with, so I'll post some initial plans as soon as the builders have finished the garage conversion !

[Chubber]

Superglue a

 

I'll be using Tillig Elite points on my next OO gauge layout.

 

There is an option to use some of my old Seep solenoid spring latching motors with Tillig points, but I'm worried that the strong solenoid "thump" would destroy the tie bar on the Tillig point...

 

Anyone have any ideas or experiences ?

 

Nick

 

I have only used the non-latching type of SEEP but have noticed one end of the solenoid 'tube' is smoother and flatter than the other which has a lead-out for the windings.

 

If a circle of rubber cut from a Marigold glove were super-glued over the smooth end, would it not act as an air-brake to lessen the 'thump'?  Were it too effective, piercing witha suitable needle may have some effect.

 

Given the number of new motors you need it might be worth experimenting with the SEEPs you have at hand....

 

Curious

 

Doug

[Butler Henderson]

Acquired some Tillig 86112 motors - puzzled over the instructions which indicate they are connected like solenoids with 3 wires to 16v ac yet with a Lenz DCC module they have to be wired like dc operated Tortoises with the 3 wires brought together through an adaptor (or pair of resistors) as a 2 wire connection, only then one of those wires is connected to two terminals on the 86112.

[Matt]

I use Tortoise on my Tillig Elite points.  To start they struggled to achieve a strong enough hold of the blade against the stock rail but I have changed out the wire for some piano wire and they are absolutely spot on now.  Appears the standard wire supplied has too much flex in it for the Tilligs.

 

M

[Butler Henderson]

Found IMO an easy way to access the Tillig 86112 motor pickup shoes. Position the sliding bearing so that the clamping screw can be undone. Then apply 12v dc direct to the motor to  force the sliding bearing all the way to the left - that then give better clearance for removing and refitting the upper sliding bearing with better clearance from the solder wire lumps on the pcb for the pickup shoes to avoid. 12v dc again to the motor to position the sliding bearing so that the clamping screw can be refitted. The Lenz LS150 must have some sensing circuit  to work these as if its still giving out dc the common has to swop between + and - dc to work the Tillig 86112 which sort of explains why the other pair of contacts are labelled + and -. However, a crossover was changing the wrong way according to the symbols on my dcc handset so I swopping the wires over expecting it not to work and it does work so it has either sensed the motors being the wrong way round and swopped the + and -, or is putting out ac.

[Butler Henderson]

Just to update the above comment - the LS150 is definitely putting out dc but swopping the common between +ve and -ve - I tried two Tillig motors with the wires crossed and they simply made some strange noises and did not move so defiantly not ac. Have been trying to make one go in the opposite direction (insufficient space to simply turn it through 180 degrees) so that it changes the point to crossover with one adjacent. I tried swopping the wires the motor - that just resulted in it moving to the extremities of travel when activated. The only solution I can  think of is to wire a pair of DPDT relays to the LS150 and switch on momentarily a separate supply to work the motor.

[Butler Henderson]

Frustrating evening - the Tillig 86112 simply would not work properly with relay switched power, why I have no idea - tried both dc and ac. Then that doh! moment when I realised I had been so focused on swopping the direction of travel of the motor to one half of a double slip I had completely overlooked the motor working the point which I am trying to sync it with has plenty of space to be rotated through 180 degrees. Something for the weekend!

[Trevor_H]

Just to update the above comment - the LS150 is definitely putting out dc but swopping the common between +ve and -ve - I tried two Tillig motors with the wires crossed and they simply made some strange noises and did not move so defiantly not ac. Have been trying to make one go in the opposite direction (insufficient space to simply turn it through 180 degrees) so that it changes the point to crossover with one adjacent. I tried swopping the wires the motor - that just resulted in it moving to the extremities of travel when activated. The only solution I can think of is to wire a pair of DPDT relays to the LS150 and switch on momentarily a separate supply to work the motor.

Hi - I have purchased some tillig Bahn points and some motors they look great. I’ve Connected them to 12v DC went one way but did not return. Reverse the polarity and ten te motor returns.

 

Is this the point of the Lenz unit LA010 to allow 12V DV operation with an AC drive?

 

Many thanks for your help - I use the Megapoints network and would like to stay on 12V supply.

 

BR

 

Trevor

Edited September 17, 2018 by Trevor_H