RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted December 25, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 25, 2015 Having not yet finished the two other loco kits I've started, it's probably not a good idea starting another one yet. But...a Beattie Well Tank kit arrived at Christmas. This was accidentally obtained from Laurie Griffin at the GoG Telford event in 2015. It's the last of the etches he had (from the original Shedmaster range which I believe was enlarged from the 4mm Jedenco kit?) and doesn't come with the chassis etch as Laurie told me this was dimensionally not right... Instructions are...sparse...just three sides of A4: Edit 15-1-16: Stop Press...I'll be using the etches kindly provided by Nick Easton, rather than the Jedenco ones, along with Laurie Griffin's castings in this build. Thread title amended accordingly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted December 25, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 25, 2015 It's obviously an old kit and the etchings don't seem to be up to the standard of Jim's kits, or indeed Laurie's own stuff. On the other hand Laurie's castings are excellent and he included everything I need in the box. And the best bit is that we get to play the great Christmas game of match the technical part name to the unmarked packets. Also included in the box were a few sheets of brass to be used to thicken up the half-etched cab sides and some Slaters buffers. A wander over to the Slaters stand on the same day and the wheels were acquired too. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted December 25, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 25, 2015 Having looked at the parts and instructions I think this kit needs to rest a while longer while more experience is gained. An aide to scratchbuilding? Probably also need to find a chassis or work out how to scratchbuild one... There is of course Pete's blog showing part of his build: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/blog-1037/cat-573-0298 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted December 26, 2015 Share Posted December 26, 2015 Hi Chris, I reckon "Andy's Christmas quiz" and "match the parts list to the weirdly shaped thing" are probably on a par. At least there should be the odd obvious one in there... (At first glance at the quiz, "match the parts list" is likely to be the easier of the two...) Iain Rice did a very good treatise on chassis construction as part of the Whild Swan series. Can look it out if you can't find it. It really does cover everything you need to know to build a working chassis. Watching with interest! Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EKR Posted December 26, 2015 Share Posted December 26, 2015 Have a photo of the chassis fret to pm you, but xmas cold inhibiting brain function. I'll work out posting shortly. Its pretty primitive..... Suspension either N15 or Sandy's "Gordon Castle" 2-4-0 thread. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted December 26, 2015 Share Posted December 26, 2015 I've never built a 2-4-0 but my 14xx 0-4-2 posed some issues. I purchased a job-lot of kits many years ago which included a Springside cast whitemetal kit for the 14/48xx. This has a milled brass chassis of very substantial material, with drilled & tapped spacers, csk screws and csk holes in the frames to match. The drivers were designed to be rigid, and the trailing axle, which needed to support the whacking great heavy cast cab, was supported in slotted holes in the frames, and a ludicrous cast wm plunger assembly. Not being hugely experienced at the time, I built it as designed, and watched it perform like an unnatural cross between a kangaroo and a pigeon. Unsurprisingly, it rocked like a see-saw about the middle axle on every bump on the track, and under even mild acceleration, attempted to wheelie like something out of the Whacky Races. I then fitted hornblocks to the driving axles, and equalised them with a pair of rocking beams (ie one beam for the horns on each frame) and made a rigid brass central support for the trailing axle thus giving "three-legged-stool" support. This works perfectly, and allows the motor/gearbox drive to the leading or trailing driven axle (trailing [middle] in my case, not sure for the Well Tank). The huge imbalance of the cab & bunker, whilst not ideally placed, is no longer an issue, and the loco works well (albeit I'm sure a MOK version would look better). This, coupled with the likes of Iain Rice's books, made me realise that the kit designer probably doesn't know best, and provided a huge confidence boost to my model making. You don't have to follow the instructions! Enjoy! Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted December 26, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 26, 2015 Thanks all for the thoughts and PM. Looking at Pete's thread, I think he's cracked the way forward in terms of suspension. Pete's notes also think that the boiler and smokebox are undersized. One to keep an eye on. Anyway I've spent all day in the train room but not modelling. We've loads of folk coming over and it's needed as a bedroom. Big tidy needed! Worn out now but we're off to see Star Wars this evening. Yay! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted December 27, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 27, 2015 You have the coupling rods which you can use to mark the spacing for the axles on the chassis. I am sure you are up to it. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Have you checked the chimney? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted December 27, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 27, 2015 Have you checked the chimney? Ha ha. ;-p Yes, it's one of Laurie's so it's fine. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted December 27, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 27, 2015 You have the coupling rods which you can use to mark the spacing for the axles on the chassis. I am sure you are up to it. Don It's a big physiological step building a chassis but with everything I've done on the other two kits I'm probably up to it. (famous last words) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted December 27, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 27, 2015 Have you not finished it yet? I'm surprised! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 This one, just multiply everything by 7/4... . Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted December 27, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 27, 2015 Have you not finished it yet? I'm surprised! I've not finished anything yet! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicktoix Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 Very interested in this post as I have made my own etches for this loco. Chassis in 22th nickel and body in 15th. Don't like whitemetal for 7mm. The chassis is designed to drive the fixed rear axle with the leading axles compensated with a beam on each side. The motor is 1830 with Brabchlinews gearbox driving under the axle. So the leading wheels can be removed the cylinders etc will be fitted to the footplate using the chassis as a jig. The crosshead arrangement is interesting as it runs on clearly visible slippers on the slidebars. There is a basic jig on the chassis etch along with the valances to help build up the footplate. The footplate is also relieved where the bends are to be made. The body is designed specifically for 30587. All the chassis parts are on the chassis etch along with a few body bits. T'will be a bit 'til I get round to building it as I have other things to finish first The best book for 7mm is Geoff Holt's Locomotive Modelling Vol 1 covers chassis Nick 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted December 28, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 28, 2015 Very interested in this post as I have made my own etches for this loco. Chassis in 22th nickel and body in 15th. Don't like whitemetal for 7mm. Chassis etch.jpg The chassis is designed to drive the fixed rear axle with the leading axles compensated with a beam on each side. The motor is 1830 with Brabchlinews gearbox driving under the axle. So the leading wheels can be removed the cylinders etc will be fitted to the footplate using the chassis as a jig. The crosshead arrangement is interesting as it runs on clearly visible slippers on the slidebars. Body etch.jpg There is a basic jig on the chassis etch along with the valances to help build up the footplate. The footplate is also relieved where the bends are to be made. The body is designed specifically for 30587. All the chassis parts are on the chassis etch along with a few body bits. T'will be a bit 'til I get round to building it as I have other things to finish first The best book for 7mm is Geoff Holt's Locomotive Modelling Vol 1 covers chassis Nick Fantastic bit of etch design there Nick. I've got Geoff's two books, they have been very useful so far in helping me work out how to do stuff. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted December 31, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 31, 2015 The above link didn't work for me Simon but I think this is what you were directing me to : http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/102611-p4-q-class-from-pdk-kit-go-to-p-6/?p=2014972 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Don't settle for a rigid axle, except possibly for an 0-4-0! Have a look here. Or here http://www.abcgears.co.uk/abc_gears_-_loco_suspension.pdf Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 If I were doing mine now I would of scrapped the already stated frames, and used side beams on the drivers, and have the leading wheel rocking. At the time I thought it would be quicker to adapt what I already had. I think there is a drawing in the Beatties classes by Bradley. If I remember correctly it is of an as built. But I would imaging the under pinnings would be the same. I think PDSWR went even further by changing cab sheet etc. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted January 3, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3, 2016 Don't full sized engines have sprung axles boxes AND equalisation beams (well some at least)? Says he never having tried any such thing! Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 3, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2016 I do seem to pick the more difficult wheel arrangements don't I! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 3, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2016 It comes with the LSWR/SR/BR(S) territory Chris! You could be boring and model the GWR!! But then the 0-6-0PT was hardly a walk in the park........ ;-) Very true Paul! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted January 3, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3, 2016 It comes with the LSWR/SR/BR(S) territory Chris! You could be boring and model the GWR!! But then the 0-6-0PT was hardly a walk in the park........ ;-) Nice to see you back and posting Paul, even with remarks like that ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 I do seem to pick the more difficult wheel arrangements don't I! It might be an odd wheel arrangement. But you need to treat it like a 0-6-0. No side play on the front carrying wheels as it will foul the slide bars etc. A little play on the front drivers and again non on the rear. And back doing modelling after 6+ months of mojo loss*. And at the last count I now have more GWR locos than SR ones (thank you Mr Klein and the products of Ixion and Minerva, not that I complaining!). The theory is that one day/sometimes/whenever, a shunting plank for small GW locos. My other theory is that if you don't buy when product is available, one will regret it later. Anyway, back to BWTs; in addition to scratchbuilt cab sides and rear bunker, part of the splashers in the cab were hand made, cannot remember why now and altering the rear cab sheet. As supplied, it is straight. Reference to 3298 many years ago showed that it folds into the cab for about 9" or so, then folds down again to the floor. There were other small additions based on photographs. Fortunately they were well photographed and two survive today. * The adoption by my wife and I of three rescue ponies also occupy our time and they need to be seen to and fed daily unlike etched brass kits!!! Nice to see you back. From what I remember there is very little of the inside of the cab in the etches. Its looking asthough there will soon be enough BWT's to build Wadebridge!!! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted January 3, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3, 2016 ... Not sure that we need to go quite that far with our models. For one thing, our track beds are usually rather firmer and more rigid than early railways in North America or contractors' lines. I wasn't suggesting we should but someone mentioned one method as being 'truer' I thought it is a bit more complicated than that. Due to the different dynamics caused by scaling we have different issues to full size (has anyone had a frame crack? probably but not a big issue) and therefore we need to find solution that work for models whilst appearing to match the full size. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now