46256 Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 Just going through my extensive spare, have a comet coach detail etch which will supply the rear tender steps with the side guards on each step carefully removed. I will examine the MT etch and seek to improve if possible...if unable to do so to my satisfaction do any of your good selves know of other suppliers of these vital bits and pieces, . I have lamented on other threads that the resurgence of RTR appears to have reduced these smaller suppliers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 G'day all Well 46256, its your railway, so you run what you like. If you plan to run freight trains with your Big Bertha, a Hiflier 54:1 would be suitable. It's what I use in my heavy freight locos (LNER O4's etc). I use the following as a guideline for gearboxes. Express 30:1 or 40:1 Passenger & mixed traffic 40:1 Freight 54:1 Trip freight & shunting 60:1 Pure shunting & banking 80:1 Dock & hump shunting 108:1 These ratios are not cast in stone and are varied on occasion. I get a buzz out of my LNER T1 humpshunter creeping along, and my dockshunters (Y7 & Y8) going even slower. When I had my first spell of model building 45 years ago, Alex Bowie (former editor of MRC) said to me; "Anyone can build a loco to go fast, but skill is needed to make it run slowly and smoothly". Now we have the choice of many different ratios with the High Level boxes, it is relatively easy to build a smooth slow running loco. A thought has just occurred to me is that; if a banker is not coupled to the train then it is liable to fall behind the train if it is geared to be slower, unless DCC is fitted. I don't have DCC, so it's a problem that I will have to cope with when I build a proper layout. I find this thread interesting as I intend to build a model of the Big Bertha in the future. Earlswood nob I always like to make the loco behave like the prototype and use the wheel size, motor RPM, the speed of the prototype. This will then give you a model that behaves as per the real thing. EMGS had a nice easy reckoner for this. I now work in 7mm but use a similar method. As each motor has different RPM's. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CF MRC Posted January 20, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 20, 2016 (edited) John Allison IIRC?Maybe John modelled the Lickey, but I also modelled a 1:37 incline on my N gauge layout Gouldby for Caldecote. It featured a Big Bertha converted from a Minitrix 2-10-0, or more precisely, the goodwill of a Minitrix 2-10-0. It featured in the last issue of Model Railways edited by Roy Dock in the mid 70's. The layout was also used to illustrate the Graham Farish range. Tim Edited January 20, 2016 by CF MRC Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earlswood Nob Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Evenin' all I agree N15class, and have a spreadsheet including the most power speed of the motors and gear ratio, wheel size etc to give me the ideal parameters for each particular loco. It works fine for me, but as I mentioned above, I like watching a Dock Shunter crawling along. I have seen layouts on Youtube which show a LNER Garratt (U1) hauling freight trains. I wouldn't have wanted to be the fireman if that happened in real life. Earlswood nob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 One day in the bellagio hotel Vegas...my lovely wife and I were watching a model train traveling through the ornamental garden on the ground floor...." Darling....that train is different to yours..." Yes I replied " it's a larger scale and American....I model British...." " No .......it stays on the track..." Apologies to this who may have read this revelation on another thread I posted on......Vegas....noted for its quickie marriages...and divorces... Bertha will both look the part and behave on my permanent way.......or face the scathing verdict from my beloved.. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 Apologies for any lack of progress on this model...the current cold spell make a visit into my loft a little unappealing.l I am eager to commence the " sexier" parts of the construction, namely the chassis, however am committed to finishing the tender to a reasonable level before moving on. On examining the model on its arrival I was most worried about the tender adaptation / alteration. I believe the rest of the kit will be straightforward . Certainly in so much as it follows the kit instructions. The term instructions use loosley....every part has a number...the instructions are ...eg solder part 1 to 2....or 12 to 13....ok I've never had to advis/ instruct someone how to make a model kit....I have in the course of my profession mentored..trained.advised.... The problem with instructions I have discovered that you can assume too much or too little of the recipients ability and or knowledge. I suspect this model will become more challenging when the motion is constucted. I have however fitted a Bill Bedford set of Stephenson link motion to a black five. The only adverse effect of that experience is the occasional wearing of this rather restrictive jacket. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 .... seen layouts on Youtube which show a LNER Garratt (U1) hauling freight trains. I wouldn't have wanted to be the fireman if that happened in real life..... It was bad enough just banking through the Silkstone Tunnels. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Shawplan do an etch of lamp irons. I have an example but I haven't examined it to closely. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted January 21, 2016 Author Share Posted January 21, 2016 Added the beading to the rear tender panel missing on djh moulding. In addition the first brass step...three to go....plus lampirons... It was at this stage my diploma in spotting the blinking obvious pro edits worth. The grading at the top of the rear of tender matches that at the top of the side pieces. I realised that the rear panel also needs reducing for BR version....and adding another flare at the rear of the tender .....will photo tomorrow to illustrate....none of this appears in instructions... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted January 21, 2016 Author Share Posted January 21, 2016 Not grading....should read beading on the top of the rear of the tender panel on the prototype matches that on the sides on BR version.if unaltered leaves too much of the rear panel higher than the top of the tender.....photo will show better tomorrow Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted January 22, 2016 Author Share Posted January 22, 2016 photo from Saturday included to show difference the further work has done in respect of tender sides ends. The lampirons are big have been whittled down to lessen their impact 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
edward66 Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 I remember seeing 58100 at Crewe works following withdrawal. There was talk of preserving it then just the cylinders but in the end nothing was preserved unless somebody got the works plates or smokebox plate. Edward 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted January 22, 2016 Author Share Posted January 22, 2016 Well about a third of the way into the build..some thoughts so far. I've been following Tony Wrights thread, which some ...most of you know can explore all aspects of this wonderful hobby...as well as diverging off on various tangents. That statement alone could provide a stream of interest. The latest musing is about the worst kit some of the esteemed contributors have ever tackled. This is not to put this kit anywhere near those. DJH.....were one of the kit manufacturers in my opinion who raised the bar. This kit however is of its time. It has been, not the need to supply the etched details which has disappointed. It is been however the poor instructions. I suspect most if not all persons who will want this ...will want the later tender variant....without the access to my quite extensive library .and the Internet....well I could have built it as per instructions....only to be left in the situation at a later date disappointed with the inaccuracies....but unwilling to damage, my by then completed model to rectify the errors. The trouble with errors...once seen...they are all you see. I have a faint suspicion that the designer of the kit had some appreciation of this though by not including the rear tender ...I've called it beading...or is it panneling....either way it isn't until you apply this as I have done that the discrepancy becomes obvious..... I stress these views are entirely personal..and to me the two most important aspects of our hobby ate there..I am creating a model that will give me great pleasure when it travels on my layout. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted January 22, 2016 Author Share Posted January 22, 2016 Must leave tonight's post on a positive note...if nothing else please fit mainly trains spectacle covers to the rear cowl plate....facing the coal space.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 I still think a credible etched kit could suit the Lickey Banker. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted January 23, 2016 Author Share Posted January 23, 2016 Handrails added to cab...cleaned using cif ....primed and painted gloss black..awaiting mixed traffic lining ....this will be now at the same time as loco. The next stage will be the chassis....just checked if it included brake gear....it does whitemetal ones.....interesting.... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Londontram Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 Blimey your making good progress all I've managed today is to put the treads on two sets of steps - fiddly but successful. Keep up the good work. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted January 24, 2016 Author Share Posted January 24, 2016 Cheers Steve....actually ..and please not false modesty I addition to he work mentioned ...just hosted a burns night in my humble abode...in honour of my best friend...no longer with us.....he a Scot me an Englishman...in his memory just served haggis ...my wife and in laws present .....flower of Scotland courtesy of YouTube and Royal Scot dragoons...first verse of the ode to the haggis delivered by me.....just to say modelling has for once taken a back seat....yet........the tender sits in my loft complete...apart from lining ...six nations about to start....lift a glass please to my best friend, and strongest rival when our two counties met......Bob....uncle Bob to my two sons..... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted January 24, 2016 Author Share Posted January 24, 2016 Counties.......countries.......goodness me we don't model the GWR.......well not much in my case Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockershovel Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 Just found some interesting footage of the Lickey Bank, including but not limited to Big Bertha, showing Pat Whitehouse and family on tne verandah of the signal cabin. Google "Railway Roundabout 1958" , you'll soon find it Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium kevinlms Posted January 24, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 24, 2016 Maybe John modelled the Lickey, but I also modelled a 1:37 incline on my N gauge layout Gouldby for Caldecote. It featured a Big Bertha converted from a Minitrix 2-10-0, or more precisely, the goodwill of a Minitrix 2-10-0. It featured in the last issue of Model Railways edited by Roy Dock in the mid 70's. The layout was also used to illustrate the Graham Farish range. Tim That issue is April 1978, if anyone is looking for it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium kevinlms Posted January 24, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 24, 2016 Counties.......countries.......goodness me we don't model the GWR.......well not much in my case An endless list of Countries, amongst the jubilee's. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted January 24, 2016 Author Share Posted January 24, 2016 Just been reaming out the chassis frames for the bearings. Is there a more tedious job....especially on a ten wheeler like this. I've fixed the crank pins into the wheels....little dab of superglue on the back of wheel, had them come out before now under power....not good. Superglue into the hole I before fixing the crank pin, I've found can't screw it in all the way, hence on rear where it shows . One thing that is apparent, the bearings will have to filed down to allow sufficient side play. The Sideplay....some would say slop on RTR is considerable, hence the ability to travel around some more challenging curves...We shall soon see how Bertha behaves on my permanent way. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earlswood Nob Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 Afternoon all I fix the crankpins into the wheels using Loctite 243. One drop of the blue liquid in the threaded hole and there is plenty of time to screw the crankpin home. On other DJH kits that I have built, I have used Gibson bearings in the frame. The holes still have to be reamed out, but as the bearing flanges are thinner, they allow more sideplay. I'm wondering about coupling rods. Are they one piece items which would restrict sideplay or are they hinged? I like this thread as I've decided to build one in the near future. Earlswood nob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted January 25, 2016 Author Share Posted January 25, 2016 All bearings now soldered in....frames held together as per the kit instructions...two brass middle with screws. The screw heads stand proud at the moment. They will be invisible when wheels located....just wondering however when bearings are reduced will they foul the wheel rims in addition two ns frame spacers front and aft. . One thing that still interests me ...how thick brass like these frames can absorb heat even from the tip of a 25 watt iron. I have under my bench a cooks blowtorch which I have given a heat blast to brass before now...this extra residual heat assist the flow of solder.....please it is used sparingly and away from the solvents etc that litter the workbench normally. One last thought at good food show in November....cooks blow torches....Janes Martin uses a heavy duty. one bought from b and Q, more at home welding pipes than melting the tops of Creme brûlée...will examine coupling rods tomorrow come on s nice ns etch will photo and post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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