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MRJ 244


Adam

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Much to my surprise, I chanced upon this in Smiths yesterday. Anyway, this edition's editor is Jerry Clifford and there is probably a bit of something for everyone.

 

  • Jerry himself offers an account of William Smith's Wharf, his micro-extension to Tucking Mill
  • John Holden produces a Sentinel railcar in S from Worsley Works etches
  • David Nicholson describes a Brunelian timber viaduct in 7mm
  • Gordon Gravett builds a venerable tank wagon in plastic in 7mm
  • Laurie Griffin introduces silver soldering
  • Peter Bossom gives a short account of the latest installment of his 3mm scale Sussex empire, Whatlington
  • Ian Smith lays Baulk Road track in standard gauge, 2mm style

 

In addition, there are pictures of a rather nice ROCAR mk 1 in 4mm and St Erth in 2mm, together with the usual Small Suppliers Forum and letters.

 

It's nicely balanced, attractively presented and full of interest. As it should be.

 

Adam

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Much to my surprise, I chanced upon this in Smiths yesterday. Anyway, this edition's editor is Jerry Clifford and there is probably a bit of something for everyone.

 

  • .....Laurie Griffin introduces silver soldering

 

 

Now this bit I'm looking forward to....

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Really, Adam, I have seen some thoughtless and insensitive postings in my time, but you really have taken the sausage on this one...

 

(PS: Thanks - I will see if it is in my local newsagent.)

 

This raised a (hopefully intended) smile. Thank you.

 

Adam

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Good to know it's about.

 

Sunny forecast for Wednesday morning, so a nice walk on the coast then picking up a copy up from my favourite seaside paper shop will exploit it nicely.

 

Follow up with a good read in a "knit and spit" on the prom after a Full English and I may have found the perfect recipe for dividing the week in half. 

 

John

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....P.S. particularly useful is the Laurie Griffin article on silver soldering.....just when I've failed so miserably on a current job!

 

It is interesting alright. At least I know now that I have the right type of butane torch, even if it turns out I was using completely the wrong kind of solder to do that crank axle on the Collett Goods.....

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A great week for model railway mags - first, an excellent issue of MRJ followed through the letter box next day by my personal favourite, Narrow Gauge & Industrial Modelling Review AND Voie Libre, now with English text for us lazy monoglots.

 

Alex.

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Have done one. So far the Maplin own-brand "silver solder" is holding, but for how long is anybody's guess  :O

 

I hope you don't mean this one http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/lead-free-silver-solder-tube-n51aw

 

That's not silver solder at all - it's soft solder with a touch of silver in. It's melting point is 217C.

 

Silver solder is a hard solder with a melting point around 700C to 800C depending on which grade you use.

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Now this bit I'm looking forward to....

 

Indeed - the article was quite an eye-opener and most instructive. I had always assumed "silver soldering" was something that existed over and above what one could or did do with model railways, and which needed special tools, facilities and abilities. Now I know it is within reach I shall definitely investigate its possibilities. 

 

Chris

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Indeed - the article was quite an eye-opener and most instructive. I had always assumed "silver soldering" was something that existed over and above what one could or did do with model railways, and which needed special tools, facilities and abilities. Now I know it is within reach I shall definitely investigate its possibilities. 

 

Chris

 

It's not difficult at all - like any technique a little practice will help. I can't remember how much it covered in the article about making the joint. The main thing is to take care and make a good close fitting clean joint before soldering. I use small pallets of silver solder rather than the paste and it's really noticeable when it flashes across joint. If the joint is sloppy then it won't flash across.

 

Mine doesn't have the label shown, but it could well be the same stuff  :dontknow:

 

Does it melt with a hot soldering iron?

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It's not difficult at all - like any technique a little practice will help. I can't remember how much it covered in the article about making the joint. ...

There was a slightly indistinct photo of the torch flame being applied to the work piece, and a caption mentioned keep the "cone" (is that the tip of the flame?) a distance of about 2 to 3mm away.

 

.....Does it melt with a hot soldering iron?

 

Not very well.

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There was a slightly indistinct photo of the torch flame being applied to the work piece, and a caption mentioned keep the "cone" (is that the tip of the flame?) a distance of about 2 to 3mm away.

 

 

 

 

No, the actual tip or end of the flame is not the hottest.

The cone is usually bright blue in colour, quite distinct from the rest of the flame, and the end of the cone, which is the hottest part of the flame, is approx a third of the way down the flame looking at it from the burner. Difficult to describe, but very easy and clear to see when you have the flame in front of you!

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No, the actual tip or end of the flame is not the hottest.

The cone is usually bright blue in colour, quite distinct from the rest of the flame, and the end of the cone, which is the hottest part of the flame, is approx a third of the way down the flame looking at it from the burner. ....

 

In that case, I've definitely been doing it wrong.

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I'm hoping that my renewal reminder will be in this issue, as I had also forgotten about that!

It's in your trouser pocket in the Haverfordwest Trouser Pressing Company !

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