relaxinghobby Posted July 23, 2016 Author Share Posted July 23, 2016 Why has this roof gone all banana shape? I think it is all made of plastic, I can't remember, I will have to strip the paint off to see what is underneath. It was a first attempt to make a Pullman clerestory roof. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 Styrene can do that RH, if that's what the roof is made of. A few years ago, I made a building wall from 0.040" sheet faced with Slaters brick. This was glued using styrene cement. The project got shelved but when I picked it up again the wall had done something like your roof. Probably to do with uneven glue on the two surfaces. I had read that when laminating styrene, holes should be made in the inside layer to allow the glue to vent - I ignored that and came to grief. Learning all the time. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJCT Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 (edited) Styrene can do that RH, if that's what the roof is made of. A few years ago, I made a building wall from 0.040" sheet faced with Slaters brick. This was glued using styrene cement. The project got shelved but when I picked it up again the wall had done something like your roof. Probably to do with uneven glue on the two surfaces. I had read that when laminating styrene, holes should be made in the inside layer to allow the glue to vent - I ignored that and came to grief. Learning all the time. John I'm sure some-one more expert than me can confirm, but IIRC laminating thick and thin plastic sheet can result in the wall (or whatever) bowing, with the thinner sheet on the inside of the curve. Many years ago an early attempt of mine to create a diesel loco body by laminating 20 thou for the bodysides over strips of 60 thou as strengthening came to grief just that way ! Your thread is a fine inspiration to progress at least some of those unfinished projects which litter what passes for my workbench.... Alasdair Edited July 24, 2016 by AJCT Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted July 24, 2016 Author Share Posted July 24, 2016 This wagon has been little more than the floor chassis and wheels for a year or two. I had marked out and cut the sides and ends in 30 thou plastikard but was not happy with the shape of the rounded ends. I think the black chassis sides are the 4mm Parkside Dundas 12ft ones, with the ends cut off for this model. So a remeasure and slight redesign and try again and begin to assemble the four sides. One end was a bit wonky so I broke the still soft joins, filed away the bad bit and am regluing here, the wooden blocks are to keep the sides apart, Now some detail has been added, used little rectangles of thin plasticard and some old Kenline embossed strapping strip. I was lucky to find some second hand, saves having to make some laboriously by hand. This model is based on a North Staffordshire Railway wagon, an unusually shape and size, the drawing I used is in R. W. Rush's book from Oakward Press, page 69. There is no brake detail shown so I will have to guess that? 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted September 12, 2016 Author Share Posted September 12, 2016 (edited) Carry on from post #26. So if I strip the paint of I can see how I constructed the roof, I can't remember if it's all plastic or plastic and balsa? I had about a half pint of screen wash left over from my old car, maybe that will dissolve the paint? No sign of anything happening after 48 hours. Edited September 12, 2016 by relaxinghobby Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharris Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 P1010111.JPG Now some detail has been added, used little rectangles of thin plasticard and some old Kenline embossed strapping strip. I was lucky to find some second hand, saves having to make some laboriously by hand. This model is based on a North Staffordshire Railway wagon, an unusually shape and size, the drawing I used is in R. W. Rush's book from Oakward Press, page 69. There is no brake detail shown so I will have to guess that? That's coming along very nicely. Coincidentally, I've just written up my NS wagon construction - a simpler wagon than yours (no round ends or hinges to worry about). I have a different NS Wagon book (the Wild Swan Chadwick one) - I'll have a look, but I don't remember seeing that one in it. Do you know the vintage of that wagon? I get the feeling it might be quite an early one, in which case the brake shoes may well be rather larger wooden blocks than supplied with the PD chassis and/or it may have just one brake-shoe per side (as per my model). A lot of the earlier ones may well only have single sided brakes too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted October 20, 2016 Author Share Posted October 20, 2016 (edited) Hi sharris thanks for the comment. The plan in Rush's book does not show much detail below the body so I’ve used the chassis kit as it came. I assume this wagon is for fast goods like fresh fish, so could be added as a tail end onto a passenger train in pre-grouping days. So it has breaks modelled both sides. I think I've seen a photo of the prototype some where but can't remember where. The pictures shows the model ready for painting Edited October 22, 2016 by relaxinghobby 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted October 24, 2016 Author Share Posted October 24, 2016 i thought this wagon was ready fir painting but decided that bear solebar needed a bit of texture so I've populated it with little bits of black plasticard for bolt heads etc. A bit blurry but this photo shows the effect. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Saunders Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 New Years resolutions! Why bother as I still have not managed to clear up on the last lot! Mark Saunders Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted November 6, 2016 Author Share Posted November 6, 2016 (edited) During an operating session using this industrialised 0-6-0t ex LMS Jinty it was apparent that it was being operated by a ghost crew. So here I'm adding a couple of white-metal figures, every 1/2 gram helps adhesion, I've super-glued them to a 1mm thick slab of black plasticard, so they can be removed. It is slightly smaller than the floor in Bachmanns fully detailed cab. Just to the left is a cardboard pattern. It is easier to cut and trim a scrap of paper or cardboard than a more permanent slab of plasticard. The crew will not be fixed just drop in. Is this model finally finished? Or will I think of something else to do? Edited November 6, 2016 by relaxinghobby Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted November 13, 2016 Author Share Posted November 13, 2016 (edited) Now with paint. Humbrol dark grey and maroon. I'll weather it with acrylic. Edited November 13, 2016 by relaxinghobby 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted November 27, 2016 Author Share Posted November 27, 2016 Some progress; transfers added from a Historical Model Railway Society sheet. Iron work straps blacked in with an acrylic black ink felt tip pen, sold for artist to draw pen and ink drawings. Some light weathering, dry brushing acrylics. I'm not sure if I've got the NSR and the Knotty knot in the right place? I somehow imagine this type of wagon was for the carriage of perishable goods as part of a passenger train, things such as milk, fruit or fish, something which would need rushing to market. The loco is an old Electrotren model of a Beyer Peacock tank of the type used on the Isle of Wight and somewhere in Spain. I've re-wheeled it with Romfords. It's all metal gears and chassis means it's noisy, but it's controllable. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheesysmith Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 So, since the resolution was to at least reduce the awaiting finishing, how does the result stand at the end of november? I know mine has actually gone up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
zephyrman Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 I have building doing a production run of ex SECR Isle of Wight Coaches. I resisted the urge to start other projects, instead sticking to one subject at a time. Coaches at the moment. Moving on to ex LBSCR ones next. Then build up a few more 5 plankers and Medina wharf Wagons. Then the only one I have not built, the boiler Wagons..Then it's onto station buildings. Although there is that part finished SWT Wessex electric I started. Just needs bogies and marker lights figuring out and replacing that duff class 170 motor someone sold me! Lol Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SD45T-2 Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 As the possessor of a reasonable number of Tichy Trains 50 and 70-ton hopper kits (given to me FoC) i can empathise with those whose kit stock seems to increase rather than decrease over time. Some of the kits are built and just need painting - dirty black - and weathering while others are part-built and the rest still in their constituent pieces until I can pick up some more Ka-Dee or Proto wheels and trucks for them. Then there are the loco kits... DJH USRA Light Pacific (£30 complete with wheels, motor and gearbox!); DJH WD 2-10-0; DJH Caprotti Standard 5; DJH Horwich mogul; all untouched. DJH Black 5 and USRA Light Mikado both part-built. Perhaps 2017 is the year in which some of these are finished. Well brought up to operational status anyway... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted January 20, 2017 Author Share Posted January 20, 2017 Thomas he's been lying around nearly finished for ages, so making a New Years attempt to get him ready to run on my now operational layout. Jobs that have been done; Extra weight at the front inside the smoke box to balance the loco. Refresh paint with Humbrol Enamel No 47 light blue. Transfers for red lining from HMRS Pressfix LNER lining sheet Should I reinstate the Bachmann circuit board? Is it necessary? Paint figures of crew. Find the details that have gone missing somewhere in my messy workshop. There some brake hoses and lamps etc. Here showing the action in the middle of lining with the Thomas loco up on his nose in a PECO foam cradle and leaning against an old tea bag box. Tools used are a small pair of tweezers as the transfers easily stick to fingers and a blunted cocktail stick to press home the sticky transfers once in place. the camomile or the cocktail can be used to relax before attempting lining. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 (edited) Small engines, any small engine could be painted up as a Thomas the tank engine. My cut down Bachmann now has it's new identity of loco number one. The green one is an old Jouef with just a repaint, I could have made it blue. It's an H0 model so if I use it with 00 models it's buffers look a bit too low and close together. It would take a lot of work to change that, so I've just stuck in some slightly smaller figures for the driver and his mate. Thus I can use it as a small industrial shunter on my industrial layout. Edited January 30, 2017 by relaxinghobby 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 (edited) A small tank engine used on the railways of Sodor Island, if it was such a useful it loco would probably have been part of a larger class of locos. So here is the other side of mine with an alternative identity. Number 2 of the class, this one is called Oldbury because I had a transfer with that name on it. Here he is with a short train of brown Isle of Sodor branch line coaches, which are not yet finished. the more orangey one is an actual Clarabell model, from a toy either Ertle or other make. Click on picture for a larger view. Edited January 31, 2017 by relaxinghobby 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted February 3, 2017 Author Share Posted February 3, 2017 (edited) Thomas now has all his brake pipes and extra details and a coat of varnish. Despite the angle of the photo he is actually slightly shorter and narrower than the GWR 0-4-2t behind him. With them side by side it looks like I've used the same dome on both locos. Looking back at the original thread I started this loco back in 2010, that's a lot of years to stick on some break pipes. Thread here...http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/26807-making-do/ Edited February 3, 2017 by relaxinghobby 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted February 3, 2017 Author Share Posted February 3, 2017 Now Thomas is finished and he can be run in, a final check for any problems such as a bit of paint on the wheel rims stopping electrical pick up. I can get started on the next model or restarted as this is a finish off old projects thread. 517 GWR 0-4-2t Gosh it's years since I last touched this one At the moment I can't find the chassis it must have been put away separately to the body. So I've been painting and fixing lining transfers. See I've broken the smoke box door handles whilst trying to fix them on. Looking at old photos of 517 class locos the handles can be pointing in any direction or o'clock position you feel like. I think the reason I stopped working on this model is that it looks a bit too wide and tall in the tanks, and I fitted some spare wheels without plastic grip tyres. Now I know why the new wheels are so cheep they are not properly concentric and while the model runs OK it goes bob bob bobbing along. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 Hi Some great work there and some useful tips in this thread. I have tried clearing half built models and am getting there but it has taken a few years !!! Keep up the good work All the bestChris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyingscotsmanfan Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 You'll find that the coach is a Hornby job. It was used in the Great Race sets which were battery powered (the Annie coach had a motor and would push along Thomas). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 (edited) Yes I now remember it had a sort of battery powered motorised chassis, the drive had been mangled and the little coach had been dumped on a swap meet stall. Yes it seems to be taking me years to finish all my half made models too, by talking about it on this thread is it helps me keep my nose to the grind stone and finish some of them. One by one, with peoples help and comments I'm getting there. Edited February 4, 2017 by relaxinghobby Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 (edited) These little details seem to take ages and some people enjoy making them, but they finish of the model. With these smoke box door handles, only a few millimetres across, they are about as small as I can cope with. I don't how 2mm fine scale followers manage. I've already broken them once, so the last few evenings have been spent trying to dismantle and repair the tiny wire that goes up the middle. Finally got it all together and soldered up with a new piece of thinker wire for as much strength as I can get into them. Next step is to clean them up. Edited February 7, 2017 by relaxinghobby Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 Work proceeds, just to see it running I tried a quick run on the layout. It jumped and wiggled all over the place, what could be wrong? Turns out that the little triangles of plastic I glued behind the footsteps are being clouted by the con-rods. I'll have to carve the plastic away but try and leave some support for the steps. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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