Oxford Rail announces - OO gauge GWR Dean Goods

[john dew]

Having got my 2475 a couple of things to note:

1) if going for a direct fit decoder the narrow tender width will limit choice, the one I had to hand an oldish DCC concepts one was too long so ended up getting a decoder with a harness

2) On mine the screws retaining the tender top were a pig to unscrew and before I knew it I had knacked the screw heads and ended up drilling them out. The tender top still is secure. This may not be a common thing and just my ineptitude!

 

I had the same problem with retaining screws on the black Dean I got in December. I agree the space for a decoder is tight.

 

Regards

 

John

[Quarryscapes]

Any interest in some smokebox number plates for the BR loco? 

[melmerby]

Mine arrived in the middle of last week and I took until Friday to it give a run.

 

Bit jerky in reverse but seem smoother in forward direction although it seems to be improving as it runs in.

As mentioned by others those tender screws are really tight. Fortunately I had a screwdriver with a good fit so didn't damage them.

Decoder space is tight. I used a Lenz Standard + V2 and had to double up the wiring harness to get it in.

With speed setting to max in the decoder the speed in reverse direction was strangely faster by about 10 % than forward, however when trimmed back to a more realistic top speed both forward and reverse were the same!

 

Overall a nice model at a realistic price, chassis wise miles better than the Airfix/Mainline/Hornby version which even 40 odd years on still has a reasonable body.

 

It's a pity the tender brake handles are so fragile, I bent both of mine even when handling the loco carefully.

 

Keith

[Quarryscapes]

Hence why I came up with replacements in brass for mine, which are a more realistic shape and height, though because of the position on the loco and the moulded handrails I've left off the handrail top bracket. https://www.shapeways.com/product/E5DQ8GJK4/gwr-dean-brake-standard-4mm-00-em-p4?optionId=64771923&li=shop-inventory.

 

I've also done a Safety Valve with insides, taper and parallel chimneys, separate water filler and pickup dome, Top feed and BR smokebox doors. 

 

 

 

It's a pity the tender brake handles are so fragile, I bent both of mine even when handling the loco carefully.

 

[melmerby]

Something I have noticed now it's out on the layout is that the back to backs are a bit tight.

I have some closed up check rails on some of my peco points and most of the Hornby & Bachmann product goes through without a murmur including a P2 but the Dean Goods is off the track!

Using a vernier the front drivers measure 14mm dead, the middle ones 14.3 and the rear 14.2.

 

Keith

[Tim Hall]

Mine ran very nicely in either direction straight from the box at anything from a sedate plod upwards, and pleasantly quiet too.

 

[melmerby]

Mine ran very nicely in either direction straight from the box at anything from a sedate plod upwards, and pleasantly quiet too.

 

IMG_4455.JPG

It is a very good loco and not too expensive either.

Oxford obviously listened to the constructive criticism aimed at the original offering and have made some useful changes.

 

It still has some quirks, like the bright handrails, but at least the brackets are radial rather than horizontal.

It also seems to be a mash up of several different variations on the Dean Goods without being totally true to any one prototype.

 

And as noted above it is very quiet and pulls well for it's size.

 

Keith

[David Stannard]

I finally got mine out the other day and gave it a burl on a test circuit, it ran very smoothly over a wide range of speeds and was very quiet, the only things that I don't like about the model is the silver handrails which will be easily fixed with a lick of paint, overall though I would have to say I am happy with the model. There is one thing that did impress me very much about this model is the level of detail in the cab and the backhead, especially when you look at the gauges with the needles painted in, I remember over 20 years ago having to do this myself on the old Mainline Dean Goods that I have, the Oxford model surpasses that one hands down.

 

 

 

Edited March 10, 2018 by David Stannard

[brian777999]

Regarding the earlier, red frame version with a round firebox : would this just involve changes to the boiler or are there many other differences in the earlier versions of the Dean Goods ?

Edited March 10, 2018 by brian777999

[SimonMW]

Lenz decoder in the tender of an Oxford Dean Goods:

 

 

Note the removal of C1 surface mount capacitor.

 

There's actually not a huge amount of room in the tender for the decoder, a direct plug will struggle for height. This went in OK though, with the wires carefully routed around and out of the way. 

Edited March 11, 2018 by SimonMW

[Neal Ball]

I’m now on my 4th one, wondering if I should chance my luck and get another, it is a lovely little loco.

[Compound2632]

I’m now on my 4th one, wondering if I should chance my luck and get another, it is a lovely little loco.

 

What are you doing with them - eating them for breakfast?

[SimonMW]

I've been running in my 3. 

 

I've noted a lot of surging at lower speeds, they almost seem 'sticky'. A few hours running in seems to be helping. 

 

On my Gaugemaster Model D DC controller one of them does not respond at all until about 35%, goes then stops, then tries again... one of the others lights up nicely at about 15 to 20%. 

 

One of them also is really quite buzzy in reverse, although fwd seems OK. 

 

How is everyone else finding them for running it, smoothness, low speed behaviour?

[The Great Bear]

 

Note the removal of C1 surface mount capacitor.

 

There's actually not a huge amount of room in the tender for the decoder, a direct plug will struggle for height. This went in OK though, with the wires carefully routed around and out of the way. 

 

What does removing the capacitor do, please?

[SimonMW]

What does removing the capacitor do, please?

Apparently it can interfere with smooth running on DCC:

 

http://www.youchoos.co.uk/Index-Resource.php?L1=Guides&Item=OO-OxfordDeanGoods

 

Was where I read that. I also tend to remove caps in fitting decoders anyway, although not normally surface mount ones like this until I read John's advice.

[DavidR]

I've been running in my 3. 

 

I've noted a lot of surging at lower speeds, they almost seem 'sticky'. A few hours running in seems to be helping. 

 

On my Gaugemaster Model D DC controller one of them does not respond at all until about 35%, goes then stops, then tries again... one of the others lights up nicely at about 15 to 20%. 

 

One of them also is really quite buzzy in reverse, although fwd seems OK. 

 

How is everyone else finding them for running it, smoothness, low speed behaviour?

 

Mine arrived two weeks ago from Hattons. After an initial push to get it going, it runs smoothly in forward and reverse at all settings (running from a Morley Vortrak) and goes through all points and crossings without any problems. All I've got to do now is the cosmetics (renumbering and colouring the handrails). So no problems here.

[melmerby]

Apparently it can interfere with smooth running on DCC:

 

http://www.youchoos.co.uk/Index-Resource.php?L1=Guides&Item=OO-OxfordDeanGoods

 

Was where I read that. I also tend to remove caps in fitting decoders anyway, although not normally surface mount ones like this until I read John's advice.

I would suggest this is more a product of poor BEMF design in a decoder than the cap itself.

I have never removed any capacitors and never have a problem with BEMF, but then again I have almost exclusively Lenz decoders which are generally considered to be one of the best.

 

Keith

[SimonMW]

Mine arrived two weeks ago from Hattons. After an initial push to get it going, it runs smoothly in forward and reverse at all settings (running from a Morley Vortrak) and goes through all points and crossings without any problems. All I've got to do now is the cosmetics (renumbering and colouring the handrails). So no problems here.

Interesting. I've only put one on DCC as it was running very smooth. The other 2 are a lot less smooth. One on the rolling road at the moment (NRM glossy green one, 2516), still on DC, has been running for about 3 hours. When I drop to 30% throttle it crawls along for a couple of seconds, then almost stops for about half a wheel rotation, appearing to struggle, then surges back to quick full rotation for a few, then slowing down again. It would be a nightmare to shunt with.

[Neal Ball]

I've been running in my 3. 

 

I've noted a lot of surging at lower speeds, they almost seem 'sticky'. A few hours running in seems to be helping. 

 

On my Gaugemaster Model D DC controller one of them does not respond at all until about 35%, goes then stops, then tries again... one of the others lights up nicely at about 15 to 20%. 

 

One of them also is really quite buzzy in reverse, although fwd seems OK. 

 

How is everyone else finding them for running it, smoothness, low speed behaviour?

 

 

Interesting. I've only put one on DCC as it was running very smooth. The other 2 are a lot less smooth. One on the rolling road at the moment (NRM glossy green one, 2516), still on DC, has been running for about 3 hours. When I drop to 30% throttle it crawls along for a couple of seconds, then almost stops for about half a wheel rotation, appearing to struggle, then surges back to quick full rotation for a few, then slowing down again. It would be a nightmare to shunt with.

 

 

This is exactly the issue I had - with 2 of the locos that went back. Despite having been run in, they would not operate at slow speed, without occasionally stopping / restarting / sluggish

 

I would suggest you both get them swapped for better locos.

[scratcher]

My 2475 arrived today, and when running DC at very slow speed, it does seem to stick a bit once per wheel rotation.  It's only had 15 mins running in each direction so I'm going to give it a couple of hours each way, but from what has been said above I'm not optimistic.  Anybody got to the bottom of why some seem to stick and some don't?

 

Looking at the tender wheel pickups, I can see the pair for the front wheels are making good contact. There's also a pair for the rear wheels but they are not touching the wheels (not even close), anyone else seen that?

[SimonMW]

My 2475 arrived today, and when running DC at very slow speed, it does seem to stick a bit once per wheel rotation.  It's only had 15 mins running in each direction so I'm going to give it a couple of hours each way, but from what has been said above I'm not optimistic.  Anybody got to the bottom of why some seem to stick and some don't?

 

Looking at the tender wheel pickups, I can see the pair for the front wheels are making good contact. There's also a pair for the rear wheels but they are not touching the wheels (not even close), anyone else seen that?

 

Yes, 2 of mine have done this... one of them worse than the other, even after several hours running in. A third appears OK... I've sent the first two back. 

[Prometheus]

I picked up my Green Dean yesterday. It runs well, happily. I remain baffled by the bright silver handrails and reversing lever however: both will receive attention in the near future. It cries out for a crew, too.

 

However - and I am categorically not carping here - whilst the cut-out in the side-sheets is an improvement over the first release, I'm still not at all sure that it's correct. I can live with it but when seen alongside the original Mainline model, there seems little doubt about which is the closer to the prototype. Drawings by Maskelyne and Beattie tend to confirm this. I have posted the photos I took for general interest. You can work out which is which!

 

 

 

All said and done however, for a quiet runner which cost rather less than £100, I'm quite content [or at least I shall be once those silver bits have been painted!].

 

Tony

[DavidR]

I spoke too soon about mine: after adding crew and a light dusting of weathering powders it now runs poorly at slow speed - forward. In reverse it's fine.

Spoke to Oxford Rail in Newport, who've offered to have a look at it (but they said 'better to return it to Hattons').

Have phoned Hattons and the young lady there said I'd invalidated the warranty by adding crew and weathering it ! I really can't understand their take on this.

Have I done the wrong thing by weathering: does this invalidate all warranties, by all manufacturers?

Opinions, please. 

[melmerby]

I spoke too soon about mine: after adding crew and a light dusting of weathering powders it now runs poorly at slow speed - forward. In reverse it's fine.

Spoke to Oxford Rail in Newport, who've offered to have a look at it (but they said 'better to return it to Hattons').

Have phoned Hattons and the young lady there said I'd invalidated the warranty by adding crew and weathering it ! I really can't understand their take on this.

Have I done the wrong thing by weathering: does this invalidate all warranties, by all manufacturers?

Opinions, please. 

If I read it correctly a Dapol warrantly is invalidated if you fit a decoder, but not if you lightly weather a loco!

Haven't read through the Oxford one yet (It should come with the loco)

 

Keith

Edited March 23, 2018 by melmerby

[SimonMW]

I spoke too soon about mine: after adding crew and a light dusting of weathering powders it now runs poorly at slow speed - forward. In reverse it's fine.

Spoke to Oxford Rail in Newport, who've offered to have a look at it (but they said 'better to return it to Hattons').

Have phoned Hattons and the young lady there said I'd invalidated the warranty by adding crew and weathering it ! I really can't understand their take on this.

Have I done the wrong thing by weathering: does this invalidate all warranties, by all manufacturers?

Opinions, please. 

 

In theory you have not invalidated the warranty unless they can prove that you weathering it or adding crew was the cause of the problem.

 

The Consumer Rights laws say:

 

"If you discover the fault within the first six months of having the product, it is presumed to have been there since the time you took ownership of it - unless the retailer can prove otherwise. During this time, it's up to the retailer to prove that the fault wasn't there when you bought it - it's not up to you to prove that it was." Reasonably they could extend that to say that if you have caused the fault (and can prove it) they don't have to cover it. 

 

So I think you probably have a good case to state that the item is faulty and it has been since new - and you do NOT have to prove anything.

 

The consumer laws further say:

 

"If an attempt at repair or replacement has failed, you have the right to reject the goods for a full refund, or price reduction if you wish to keep the product. The retailer can't make any deductions from your refund in the first six months following an unsuccessful attempt at repair or replacement."

 

The spirit of Consumer Rights law is that you can be USING the product for up to 6 months before realising that it is faulty - this does not change your rights. Is weathering reasonable usage? I would have thought so.

 

I would have thought you are quite within your rights to ask them to repair or replace it.