Castle Aching

[Caley Jim]

The station is set at an angle to the wall/boards, as this increases the length and brings it to the foreground.  

I always feel it helps the aesthetics when tracks don't run parallel with the baseboard edge, especially at either end of the layout.

 

Jim

[Edwardian]

It is certainly good for morale to feel that the whole scenic portion of the layout finally exists, albeit in skeletal form.

 

Castle Aching parishioners should not fear that the topic will reach fruition any time soon, however.  It has taken from January 2016 to now just to get the baseboards up, so I think this rambling discourse is good for a while yet!  Still to start is a cassette yard, and, of course, cassettes.  But that can wait.

 

Further, I have no other room in which to build railways, so my only option for further modelling is to extend the West Norfolk around the room.  I can do this, one board at a time, moving the cassette yard each time.  Of course, this means that the cassette yard would have to move further and further away from the Castle Aching controls, which is a pretty convincing argument for eventually extending right around the room to enable the cassette yard to be located immediately behind the operator at CA!

 

Back to reality ...

 

The station board has been taken down and brought into the house.

 

Before commencing work, I have some decisions to make and a shopping list to draw up. 

 

Here are the matters under consideration:

 

1. Track base.  My suggestion is to lay 5mm deep foam-board, as opposed to, say, cork, on to the ply base, and then lay the track on this.  There are 3 reasons for this.  First, it helps to elevate the track-bed  a little, defining the course of the line.  Second, it allows me to drop, very slightly, the ground level in and around the station yard for a more natural look.  Third, it should provide some cushioning and noise reduction. Ply to the same height could be used where the track crosses the board joints and needs to be anchored.

 

2. Track.  It is possible to used FB throughout. Sections of the M&GN were not relaid to BH until 1905.  On the whole, though, I am inclined to have the running lines in BH and the rest FB.  The shed road?  Only the shed road, but used as the de facto run around, yet no trains pass.  Was going to be BH, but could it be left FB?  It would provide a nice contrast to the BH of the platform road and the loop.  Carr's Ash Ballast here? 

 

3. Track laying.  A certain amount of flexibility seems desirable, having considered what Iain Rice writes about floating or semi-floating track.  Would it gluing the track to the foam-board at intervals work?

 

4. Ballasting. Again, influenced by Rice, ground nut-husk ballast glued with the slightly flexible dilute Kids PVA.

 

5. How points are to be operated?

 

Track-work is supposed to be a mix of FB (direct on sleeper) and BH (chaired).

 

I have components for FB plain track and I have SMP/Marcway BH plain track.  Somewhere I have a pair of track gauges.

 

So, I need to draw up a shopping list for the points. I will need PCB for longer sleepers.  I don't have any BH rail, so would need to order this. The BH points will need cosmetic chairs etc.  Do I need anything else?

 

EDIT:  Below, this is not DonW's track-plan, so is not representative of his arrangement, but it suffices to illustrate the different  areas of track. DonW's layout, flows beautifully.  I only hope that I can do it justice!

Edited September 25, 2017 by Edwardian

[Compound2632]

Vision to reality, brilliant!

 

Looks to me as if the LBSCR got there first, naturally so, it being the real Premier Line.

 

K

 

"Better to be a dead mackerel on the North Western than a first class passenger on the London Brighton and South Coast." E.L. Ahrons, Locomotive and Train Working in the Latter Part of the Nineteenth Century, Vol. 5 p.58 (Cambridge: Heffer, 1953).

[Edwardian]

Any comments and suggestions regarding post 5308 above are most welcome.

 

In the meantime, though jumping ahead somewhat, I note that the newly re-whatever C&L no longer stocks ballast.  Iain Rice specifically mentions Woodland Scenics for ground nut husks. 

 

Also, I hear talk of Chinchilla dust. Has anyone used this?

 

EDIT: Just had to self-censor there, as the juxtaposition of a Chinchilla and a cheese grater was in such poor taste that I upset myself! 

 

Edited September 25, 2017 by Edwardian

[BlueLightning]

James,

 

I haven't used chinchilla dust for ballasting but it is what the platform surfaces on Oak Hill are made of.

 

And here is a picture from just after it went down, doesn't Oak Hill look so much better now!!!!

 

 

Gary

[ChrisN]

Any comments and suggestions regarding post 5308 above are most welcome.

 

In the meantime, though jumping ahead somewhat, I note that the newly re-whatever C&L no longer stocks ballast.  Iain Rice specifically mentions Woodland Scenics for ground nut husks. 

 

Also, I hear talk of Chinchilla dust. Has anyone used this?

 

EDIT: Just had to self-censor there, as the juxtaposition of a Chinchilla and a cheese grater was in such poor taste that I upset myself! 

 

I think, and now everyone will post with different ideas, that chinchilla dust will be too fine for ballast, unless it represents ash in the sidings.  I understand n gauge ballast is the right size for 4mm, not that I have ballasted yet.

[mullie]

Das modelling clay if you want to be really different. Very messy to apply but people such as Chris Nevard make it look superb. I always mix with PVA to stop it cracking.

 

Martyn

[Edwardian]

James,

 

I haven't used chinchilla dust for ballasting but it is what the platform surfaces on Oak Hill are made of.

 

And here is a picture from just after it went down, doesn't Oak Hill look so much better now!!!!

 

station.jpg

 

Gary

 

Impressive. What did you use as ballast?

 

I was thinking about the ballasting on the siding and the yard area generally.  Might that be a candidate for grated Chinchilla?

 

Shed road would probably be Carr's ash.

 

I am considering Woodland Scenics ballast for the running lines/loop.  I don't know how suitable for Norfolk this might be, but I'd like to try buff, rather than grey, ballast, and would propose to mix buff and brown granules. I have a feeling that "track-dust" turns everything slightly brown anyway!  Yours is a good colour.

[Nearholmer]

I wish that modern railway writers had the wit and courage to write like Ahrons.

 

Foam board for track base? This is probably an attitudinal thing, not much based in logic, but I'm suspicious of anything 'plastic' in the track bed, because it is so hard to know what it's long term durability will be, especially given that plastics have a bit of a habit of decomposing to form unpleasant gunge, or becoming hard and brittle or crumbly over many years.

 

Kevin

[Edwardian]

I wish that modern railway writers had the wit and courage to write like Ahrons.

 

Foam board for track base? This is probably an attitudinal thing, not much based in logic, but I'm suspicious of anything 'plastic' in the track bed, because it is so hard to know what it's long term durability will be, especially given that plastics have a bit of a habit of decomposing to form unpleasant gunge, or becoming hard and brittle or crumbly over many years.

 

Kevin

 

Kevin, a fair point, but, then, the whole of the village is built on foam board foundations, so if and when it does decay, there will be no community left for the tracks to serve!

 

Still, it would be good if the earlier parts of the layout hadn't decayed to dust before it's finished! 

 

How about mount-board on the foam board?  

 

Or, even cork?

 

I quite like the idea of the foam board's slightly cushioning effect.  

Edited September 25, 2017 by Edwardian

[BlueLightning]

Impressive. What did you use as ballast?

 

I was thinking about the ballasting on the siding and the yard area generally.  Might that be a candidate for grated Chinchilla?

 

Shed road would probably be Carr's ash.

 

I am considering Woodland Scenics ballast for the running lines/loop.  I don't know how suitable for Norfolk this might be, but I'd like to try buff, rather than grey, ballast, and would propose to mix buff and brown granules. I have a feeling that "track-dust" turns everything slightly brown anyway!  Yours is a good colour.

 

James,

 

I can't tell you what the ballast in that photo is as that is what the layout came with,  the ballast that is down now is a mix of buff and grey from Gaugemaster. I was planning Woodland Scenics but the Gaugemaster rep was in the shop when I went to get it and it was easier to buy his to shut him up!!

 

 

Gary

[Andy Hayter]

The two most dangerous things to plastic that cause its degradation are solvents - principally from glues and paints in our operations - and light.  Most plastics will suffer from uv light degradation unless specifically and expensively treated to protect them.

 

Given that PVA (usually used for sticking down ballast) is water based and the foamboard will be covered with ballast and scenic materials, I think these dangers will be minimised.  

 

The other big danger of course is the carelessly handled soldering iron.

[Edwardian]

The two most dangerous things to plastic that cause its degradation are solvents - principally from glues and paints in our operations - and light.  Most plastics will suffer from uv light degradation unless specifically and expensively treated to protect them.

 

Given that PVA (usually used for sticking down ballast) is water based and the foamboard will be covered with ballast and scenic materials, I think these dangers will be minimised.  

 

The other big danger of course is the carelessly handled soldering iron.

 

That is reassuring.  I would hope that the card surface of the foam board would be adequate protection.  I have experienced no problems on the purely scenic village section.

[Caley Jim]

I would be slightly wary of using anything which can be readily squashed.  On our Area Group's Sauchenford layout we laid the track on 3/8" balsa, advocated by one of our (now sadly deceased) members.  We have had some serious problems where pressure has accidentally been applied to the track, such as when making the inevitable adjustments or fixing soldered joints.   This has resulted in the balsa being compressed beyond its elastic limit creating a permanent dip in the track.  This might not be an issue if the track is laid on card on top of the foam board.  Personally I think the need for sound deadening is somewhat overstated.  Thick card might well be enough.

 

My 1p (old 2d) worth for whatever that's worth!

 

Jim

[Edwardian]

I would be slightly wary of using anything which can be readily squashed.  On our Area Group's Sauchenford layout we laid the track on 3/8" balsa, advocated by one of our (now sadly deceased) members.  We have had some serious problems where pressure has accidentally been applied to the track, such as when making the inevitable adjustments or fixing soldered joints.   This has resulted in the balsa being compressed beyond its elastic limit creating a permanent dip in the track.  This might not be an issue if the track is laid on card on top of the foam board.  Personally I think the need for sound deadening is somewhat overstated.  Thick card might well be enough.

 

My 1p (old 2d) worth for whatever that's worth!

 

Jim

 

That's a point, for sure.

 

While CA will not be subject to the rigours of exhibition life, it only takes one fat old knacker like me to lean on a siding once to induce permanent subsidence!

 

Perhaps I should stop trying to re-invent the wheel and just buy some cork sheeting?

Edited September 25, 2017 by Edwardian

[Nearholmer]

My deliberately old fashioned choice is cork, specifically that from a supplier called Charles Cantrill, which is a lot better than typical, being tighter grained and less crumbly; I think it is really gasket material.

 

But, if you buy sheets, it would be a bit of a pig to cut a sloping ballast shoulder.

 

When I built a US short line in H0, I used no underlay at all, because the track needed to look 'down in the dirt'.

[Edwardian]

My deliberately old fashioned choice is cork, specifically that from a supplier called Charles Cantrill, which is a lot better than typical, being tighter grained and less crumbly; I think it is really gasket material.

 

But, if you buy sheets, it would be a bit of a pig to cut a sloping ballast shoulder.

 

When I built a US short line in H0, I used no underlay at all, because the track needed to look 'down in the dirt'.

 

Aha!

 

http://www.charlescantrill.com/shop/model-railway/

[St Enodoc]

My deliberately old fashioned choice is cork, specifically that from a supplier called Charles Cantrill, which is a lot better than typical, being tighter grained and less crumbly; I think it is really gasket material.

 

But, if you buy sheets, it would be a bit of a pig to cut a sloping ballast shoulder.

 

When I built a US short line in H0, I used no underlay at all, because the track needed to look 'down in the dirt'.

A mitre mat cutter, as used by picture framers, is ideal for cutting a shoulder on cork sheet.

 

Edited to clarify that I meant the tool used to bevel the edges of the card mount (mat) rather than the tool used to cut the corners of the wood for the frame itself.

 

This is the one I use - other brands and retailers are no doubt available.

 

https://www.hobbytools.com.au/olfa-mat-cutter-mc-45/

Edited September 25, 2017 by St Enodoc

[teaky]

Any comments and suggestions regarding post 5308 above are most welcome.

 

In the meantime, though jumping ahead somewhat, I note that the newly re-whatever C&L no longer stocks ballast.  Iain Rice specifically mentions Woodland Scenics for ground nut husks. 

 

Also, I hear talk of Chinchilla dust. Has anyone used this?

 

EDIT: Just had to self-censor there, as the juxtaposition of a Chinchilla and a cheese grater was in such poor taste that I upset myself! 

I think Green Scenes' ballast is made from nut husks but unless someone can confirm this it might be safer to contact them to check.

 

http://www.green-scenes.co.uk/

 

 

There are others on here but Gordon S' Eastwood Town thread features some nicely ballasted trackwork on a cork base.

[ianLMS]

I used standard cork sheet, but it doesn't give much depth as its quite thin. I do like the look of the Woodland Scenics trackbed with pre-chamfered edges. Might be pricey for a large layout and no idea of longevity seeing as it's foam. Cork lasts a very, very long time, wheras I guess the foam will degrade over time - especially if solvent glue is used.

 

For ballast, try looking at Greenscene - I use their "scale sized" OO gauge ballast and I am very happy with it. Supposedly, they actually went to various sites, measured the actual ballast stones in the location and graded chippings to match the scale. They do a full range of scales, sizes, colours etc and an easy to use applicator. Great for other scenic materials as well and attend various shows. no affiliation, blah, blah, blah!

 

www.green-scenes.co.uk

 

Layout is coming along very nicely there Sir - great to see the progress and really looking forward to watching it develop!!! I wish my woodworking skills were as good!!!

 

Ian

[Edwardian]

The Green Scenes ballast looks good.  I cannot, however, see anywhere on the website any information as to the material used.

[ianLMS]

The Green Scenes ballast looks good.  I cannot, however, see anywhere on the website any information as to the material used.

I do not know the material, but I do know that its colour-fast unlike other ballasts I have tried. Maybe a quick e-mail to them would answer your question?

[Nearholmer]

This could open-up a big discussion, as happened when ballast (the absence thereof) came up in my thread, but where is the WNR assumed to source its ballast from?

 

I ask, because good-quality, hard stone was by no means universal for this purpose in 1905, and the choice might make a difference to the colour, and even at 1:76, the texture.

[DonB]

This could open-up a big discussion, as happened when ballast (the absence thereof) came up in my thread, but where is the WNR assumed to source its ballast from?

 

I ask, because good-quality, hard stone was by no means universal for this purpose in 1905, and the choice might make a difference to the colour, and even at 1:76, the texture.

 

Interesting Question! 

Sources of hard stone would have been needed  for the local churches, especially Boston and Ely, does history tell of sources of their materials?

All those sailing boats (Wherries?) needed a source of ballast for their keel. Is that the same stuff in Norfolk? 

 

I'm no Geographer... Gently eased out of the Geography classes as a 14-y-o !!  so have no knowledge of the ground strata of the area.

[Edwardian]

This could open-up a big discussion, as happened when ballast (the absence thereof) came up in my thread, but where is the WNR assumed to source its ballast from?

 

I ask, because good-quality, hard stone was by no means universal for this purpose in 1905, and the choice might make a difference to the colour, and even at 1:76, the texture.

 

A good question, to which I have no answer!