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Tim4948's Workbench - Building a LMS buffet car


tim4948
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Tim,

Welcome back. I was beginning to worry about the lack of recent posts and wondered if you had given up on us.

................

Dave.

Ahem... a bit embarrassing, considering the subject matter, but a week long sojourn helping us out with a layout at Intermodellbau Dortmund might have delayed him just a bit.... Thanks Tim.

Steve W,

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Having put it off for long enough I decided that it was time to tackle the bogies and start to add the detailing to them. The first step was to add the triangular strengthening pieces each one of these measure 1mm x 2mm, 8 are neede for each axel box so that's a total of 240 of them to stick on - cutting them out took next to no time as I used my portrait cutter, the sticking them on part took a few hours. Below is a before and after picture.

 

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The next thing to do is to create new fronts for the axel boxes.

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The next step was to start modifying the front of the axle boxes, this was done by using 0.25mm plasticard a small strip was first added to the bottom followed by a new axle box cover was then put over the top of this was so that the front would slope out at the bottom.

 

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The hinges for the axle box covers were then added

 

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It was then onto the spring dampeners which came in 3 parts as shown below.

 

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The final parts of the detailing for the bogies has now been added which consists of the the parts that go between the dampeners and the angle piece for the buffer beams.

 

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There were a lot of parts added to the bogies in total

 

Here's a list in case you're interested:

 

Strengthening triangles for the side of the axel boxes = 240

New axel box covers = 30 x 3

Dampeners = 60 x 3

Parts that go between the dampeners = 22 x 2

Angle pieces for the buffer beams = 4

 

Total parts added to the bogies = 556

 

There are still the hand brake wheels to be added but this will be done after the rivets.

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More detail work has been done to the main girders before the rivets get added. First up was to add the circular pieces which go in the middle of the big panel on both sides, the first step was to use a thin section cut off of the 12.7mm plastic tubing.

 

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The next step was to add the top plate which was cut out from 0.25mm plasticard using the portrait cutter to ensure that its circular.

 

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The angle pieces were then added above the circular part.

 

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The same process was then repeated on the other side.

 

It was the onto the rear part of the girder, the hinged doors that go onto the floor were added, these were again cut out using the portrait cutter.

 

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The hinges were then added to them.

 

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Next up was the footsteps that go up both sides of the girders, these were cut out from 0.25mm plasticard.

 

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The doors that go on the front end of the girder have now been added I have decided to model these open so that the details that I've added can still be seen, this was done by using 2 pieces of 0.25mm thick plasticard for each door.

 

Here are a sequence of photos to show.

 

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If you look at the main girders, the top flange is progressively thickened towards the middle by rivetting on additional doubling plates. This is also quite common in bridge construction.

I have only just realised that I had forgotten to do this so I decided that I had better do it now before the rivets get done. Below is a picture showing the finished top flange, this was done by adding layers of 0.25 thick plasticard.

 

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Once this was done the long box shaped object (not too sure what this did) that goes on top of one of the girders was made and then fitted.

 

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.... a lot of parts added to the bogies in total

 

Here's a list in case you're interested:

 

Strengthening triangles for the side of the axel boxes = 240

New axel box covers = 30 x 3

Dampeners = 60 x 3

Parts that go between the dampeners = 22 x 2

Angle pieces for the buffer beams = 4

 

Total parts added to the bogies = 556

 

There are still the hand brake wheels to be added but this will be done after the rivets.

 

:O  :swoon:

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's been a while since the last post, this isn't because I've been ignoring the build but it is because I have been busy doing the rivets, I decided that the cheapest and easiest way to do this was to apply small dots of superglue with a fine tipped cocktail stick (done after a lot of practice on scraps so that the rivets would be as consistent as I could get them). Here are some pictures of the finished rivets (they're a bit hard to see in the pictures).

 

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Just in case you are wondering how many rivets I put on (Because I certainly was) I've counted them and there's over 15,000 of them!!!!

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Now that the rivets have been done it was time to make a start on the details that couldn't be added till after the rivets. First up was the hand rails that go on the front end of the main girder this was made from 0.5 mm diameter plastic rod for the uprights and 0.3mm diameter for the hand rail itself.

 

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It was then onto the rear hand rails these were made from a mixture of plastic rod for the uprights and brass rod for the handrail both were 0.5mm diameter. The first one to be done was the easy one as it's basically straight for the whole length apart from the rear which bends through 180 degrees.

 

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Next up was the more complicated hand rail that had to be bent so that the 2 lower levels are low enough for the 2 cranes to pass over them.

 

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The rear footsteps were then added.

 

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This was then followed by the 2 ladders that go on each side.

 

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The hand brake wheels have now been added to the bogies, each bogie has 1 hand wheel each side. These were first soldered onto a piece of brass wire before being fitted to the bogie.

 

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It was then time to do the details on the buffer beams this involved cutting out the draw hook plate and fitting the draw hook along with the chain that goes either side of the draw hook.

 

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This then completed the bogies so it was time to move onto finishing off the main girders, first up was to fit the platforms on the sides.

 

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The box that goes on top of the rear of the girder was then made using 0.5mm plasticard for the top and bottom with 2mm square rod sandwiched between, the top layer was then scored and 2 small lengths of 0.3mm diameter rod fitted to represent handles.

 

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I then realised that I had missed 2 handle bars from the sides of the girder, I also added the junction box that splits the hose that runs down the side of the girder, going from the rear of the girder where the hose meets the junction box 1 hose runs up to the top and ends where the pivot for the gun barrel is whilst the other continues to the front of the girder (the hoses will be added after the painting has been done)

 

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You definitely know when you've added enough detail as once the platforms had been added it was virtually impossible to work on the model without damaging one of them! The only way that I could work around this was to prop the girder on top of some paint pots - whilst not the most stable compared to the work surface it greatly reduced the chances of things being broken off.

 

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The next job will be to start on the painting!

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  • 2 weeks later...

It has been a while since the last update, this isn't because I've forgotten about Boche Buster - it is because I have been busy building and modifying a peco turntable to replace the current turntable on my local clubs layout Northwick (more on this later). Getting back to Boche Buster once i had painted it in red primer I took it to the club for an outing on Northwick, here are a few pictures of it.

 

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Now onto the turntable that has been slowing down the progress with Boche Buster, the reason for this being done before Boche Buster is finished is because it is neede for the clubs open day which Northwick will be participating, unfortunately the existing turntable was falling apart just as quickly as we could repair it so it was decided to go for a new one. The new turntable is a peco kit which was modified to change its appearance first up was to build the well, apply the paper brick walling and then weather it, here is the end result.

 

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It was then onto the turntable deck which would need more modifications the first being to add a platform to onside for the hand crank, and second the addition of handles at each end for it to be turned by hand if need be - with these I decided to model them so that you can choose to have them in the raised or lowered position.

 

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Next up was the handrails that run along the sides of the deck I decided that I didn't like the ones that come in the kit so these were created using 1.5mm L shaped plastic rod cut so that they would be the same height as the ones in the kit above the deck but long enough to be bent at an angle to meet the girder underneath.

 

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2 holes were drilled in each of the posts ready to receive 0.5mm plastic rod. And the whole lot was then primed ready for painting.

 

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The deck was then painted and weathered.

 

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The 2 parts were then put together

 

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Here it is on the layout with the new tracks leading to it

 

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Now that the turntable is done I can now get back to finishing off Boche Buster

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Hi Tim.

I must say, the finished gun and carriage look very good now they are painted - final colour grey? Just one pint, if its not too late. I think you should consider fitting a sleeve inside the end of the barrel to reduce the bore to a more scale diameter. At present, the end of the barrel looks too thin - like the end of a pipe, whereas large gun barrels are pretty hefty looking.

Regards,

Dave.

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Hi Tim.

I must say, the finished gun and carriage look very good now they are painted - final colour grey? Just one pint, if its not too late. I think you should consider fitting a sleeve inside the end of the barrel to reduce the bore to a more scale diameter. At present, the end of the barrel looks too thin - like the end of a pipe, whereas large gun barrels are pretty hefty looking.

Regards,

Dave.

Hi Dave

 

I had completely forgotten about putting the sleeve inside the barrel (I was going to put one in because the bore was slightly too big). For the final colour I am thinking of a greyish green similar to that carried by the tanks of ww2. 

Edited by tim4948
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I have been busy painting the model for the past couple of days and decided that it would be nice to reassemble it to show the progress.

 

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I have also started to add the hoses that run along the side of the main girder.

 

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Hi Tim.

I have no idea if your colour scheme is correct, but the model look very good indeed. You've managed to scratch built a nice looking model of an interesting and unusual prototype. Well done!

I hope you get lots of satisfaction from seeing it run on the layout.

Regards,

Dave.

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Hi Dave

 

There is still plenty to do, there is the rigging to be fitted to the cranes, fitting the nameplates and making some shells for it. 

 

With regards to the colour the pictures show it to be a slightly different colour to what it is, the darker pictures are probably the closest to what the model is. I know that during the first world war it would have been painted in camouflage. For the second world war which is when it had the bigger barrel and is the one that I have modeled it did not seem to carry camouflage and was a single colour, so i decided that after finding a colourised photo of Boche Buster which showed it to be a greyish green I thought that it would be best to go for a colour close to that and similar to the colour used on tanks and artillery of the period.

 

If anyone wants to see this model in the flesh then it will be on display on Northwick at my local clubs open day which is this coming Saturday (23rd July) see the details below.

 

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Edited by tim4948
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I have been busy painting the model for the past couple of days and decided that it would be nice to reassemble it to show the progress.

 

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I have also started to add the hoses that run along the side of the main girder.

 

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Bloody hell! :O  Have we just seen an early entrant for Model Of The Year!?

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More progress has been made with the rigging for the 2 cranes added.

 

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A close up

 

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On another note does anyone know where I can get some OO gauge British WW2 soldiers to go with this model, preferably like in the picture below (with helmets and no guns)?

 

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The next job has been to make the shells for the gun, luckily I found some spare brass rod that I had used as dowels for the shelves on the model train display cabinet that I made a few years ago, amazingly it was the perfect diameter for the shells so I set about turning this.

 

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Into this

 

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Just to give a feeling for the size for just how big the shells were here's one next to a nervous looking RAF man.

 

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Next job paint them.

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