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Jazz 7mm Workbench





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#1 jazz

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Posted 22 October 2009 - 07:24


Hi all back to the workbench after a nice break in Kernow. I have the cute Park tank loco all ready for despatch. Here she in primer.

This is the Javelin kit. Very nice to assemble. I like it so much one is on order for my line.

Although a NLR tank they ended up all over the place including Shropshire so just right for an excuse to be seen on P y Cwm branch.

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Edited by jazz, 18 September 2013 - 20:21 .

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#2 BlackRat

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Posted 22 October 2009 - 07:53

Jazz, nice job there.

Is this an etched brass kit|?

#3 jazz

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Posted 22 October 2009 - 08:08

Jazz, nice job there.

Is this an etched brass kit|?


Certainly is, BlackRat. From the Javelin range now sold by Gladiator.

#4 jazz

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Posted 22 October 2009 - 08:22

:rolleyes: Here's an update on the N8. Finally got her primed and ready to go along with the Park tank and the Patriot.

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#5 jazz

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Posted 22 October 2009 - 20:36

:rolleyes: Happy to say I have now got a full handle on the new forum. Here are some photos of the GWR County build. (I started this build whist the chageover of the forum was under way and did not take photos from the start.)

Anyway this is the Scorpio kit. I am very fond of these kits as they are very well detailed and assemble with little trouble.

I have not completed the chassis as painting it will be easier in this state. Completion will require very little addition painting. I do not bother with springing on the bogies now. I find packing with loads of hidden lead works MUCH better. An added bonus is not having to spend time adjusting springs to get a good ride. The bolt Scorpio give for a centre post for the bogie works much better with a brass tube sleeve over it. The thread tends to bind in the bogie slot otherwise.

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The bodywork has gone well today. I add as much detail as posible before making up and fitting the firebox/boiler/smokebox unit. A dislike trying to add detail when the body is almost complete. Much easier doing this way. I have installed the Scorpio compensation beam on the rear two axles. Doing this meant I could not fit the cast internal axle journals. It is not noticeable when the body is fitted. There is room for the Gladiator pickups on all the drivers.

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The tender I have already completed. I have used my usual piano wire springing for the centre axle.

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#6 Nortonian

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Posted 22 October 2009 - 21:14

Hi Jazz,

Looking good as usual but, should that not be a rectangular tank filler on the back of the tender ?.

Keep up the good work Posted Image

Regards

Ian

#7 Pete Harvey

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Posted 22 October 2009 - 21:40

Jazz

Do you use Etching Primer or basic Car Primer?

Pete

#8 Rick White

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Posted 23 October 2009 - 02:11

Jazz

Do you use Etching Primer or basic Car Primer?

Pete


A good question Pete ... been wondering the same thing.
Jazz ?

#9 Ressaldar

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Posted 23 October 2009 - 07:18

Hi Ken,

nice work there as usual. I built one of the NLR Park tanks just after moving up to the Wirral and as you say, a joy to build.

Hope the hips are doing well.

regards

Mike
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#10 jazz

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Posted 23 October 2009 - 07:28

'Morning guys.

Ian, yes that should be a rectangular filler, thanks for noticing it. The kit does have both types included.

Pete & Rick. I have always used regular Halfords grey primer with great results. Models I have painted many decades ago that have had heavy use are still in great shape.

Hi Mike. The hip is coming along very nicely. Just come back from a week in Kernow enjoying some cliff top walks, so can't be bad.

Regards to all Ken

#11 Miss Prism

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Posted 23 October 2009 - 13:34

Ken - excuse my usual fetish question, but please report what the all-up weight of your County is when you have finished it.

#12 jazz

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Posted 23 October 2009 - 19:24

Ken - excuse my usual fetish question, but please report what the all-up weight of your County is when you have finished it.


Will do. Ken

#13 jazz

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Posted 24 October 2009 - 17:11

A bit more progress on the County today. Surprising for a Scorpio kit, the boiler/smokebox took a fair bit of time to get it to sit properly. When rolled and soldered anlong the half etched seam the front and rear edges were way off verticle. Anyway, I finally got it all right in the end. I bolted the firebix to the cab front and drilled from beneath the footplate and through the bottom of the s/box. Then solders an 8BA nut over the hole in the s/box and secred with an 8BA bolt. I will probably solder the wole unit to the footplate before painting anyway.

The rest of the body should now fly along. Tomorrow is another day.

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#14 jazz

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Posted 28 October 2009 - 15:43

Hi all. Sorry I've been a bit slow finishing this build, been doing a few chores around the garden for the winter.

Anyway, she is now ready for the off. Been running on the rolling road for and hour and is running very nicely with a Ron Chaplin 2 stage unit installed.

The ony real problem was not enough clearance for the drivers under the splashers. Solved this by fitting a thin shim of Plstikard between the footplate and the frames by the fixing bolts. It's actually brought the loco footplate to the exact height of the tenders anyway. So all is fine and dandy.

Here she is in her finery. (I will be able to see some of my work in a painted condition painted next week. I'm going over to Geoff's to play trains, my first visit to his place in all the years we have been friends. Remarkable really. 'Still it is a fair drive from here to Coventry)

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#15 Nortonian

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Posted 28 October 2009 - 16:05

Hi Jazz,

Another good looking engine but, I cannot find an engine photograph of a County with a steam heat pipe on the front bufferbeam. Maybe you know better than I. Which locomotive is it to be by the way ?.

What is next on the workbench ?.

Regards

IanPosted Image

#16 jazz

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Posted 28 October 2009 - 17:45

Hi Jazz,

Another good looking engine but, I cannot find an engine photograph of a County with a steam heat pipe on the front bufferbeam. Maybe you know better than I. Which locomotive is it to be by the way ?.

What is next on the workbench ?.

Regards

IanPosted Image


Neither could I Ian. Problem is Geoff asked for the steam heat pipes to be fitted???. She is to be County of Worcester as running in her last days. I am starting an LMS Claughton next but will switch to one for for myself after I have met with Geoff, it's a Park 0-6-0T

I also forgot to post the weight of the model for Miss Prism. I'ts just 2lbs 8ozs in it's stockinged feet.
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#17 Ressaldar

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Posted 28 October 2009 - 18:03

Hi Ken,

very nice as usual, looking forward to seeing the 'painted' jobs.

regards

Mike

#18 jazz

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Posted 03 November 2009 - 21:41

Hi all. As mentioned above, I spent the day at Geoff's place today. As promised I have posted quite a few images of just a few of the many locos I have built in the past for him. Plus some surprises. For those interested they can be found in the 'The Showcase' section.

Now back to the workbench after a great day off. :D

#19 jazz

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Posted 07 November 2009 - 18:54

Hi All. I got a little side tracked by spying this rather attractive Directors Saloon sitting in Gladiators office. Just had to get myself one. Although of NER origin it's ideal for my light railway. Although built in 1870 it is still in use today as a passeger coach on a preserved line. So mine is to be configured as a First/Third.

Here is the box that started it.
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These are the etches. They are very crisp and well detailed. (It's actually an ex Northstar kit) It is a bit basic by todays standards but a little extra work will make a nice model. The build will explain what I did.
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Starting with the tumble home. I build very few coaches and therefor do not have a suitable bending tool for this job. I use the old way of utilising suitable steel rods. I just gently and carefully rock the etch over the rod, constantly checkig the bend against the ends. A quick tweak with the fingers and in a few minites you have a perfect fit.
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Next is solder the ends/floor and sides ensuring all is square. It's all a perfect fit and as long as you have the ends absolutely at 90 degrees you will have no problems. Now is the time to add the only provided internal detail. That is the toilet/small corridor partitions. I decided to add a couple fo cross strengthening strips, from sprue offcuts, between the sides as they easily bowed in. Especially as I want the roof removeable.
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So far so good. Continues tomorrow

#20 jazz

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Posted 08 November 2009 - 16:29

OK. Moving forward with the NER Sallon Coach. Making up and fitting the wheel units was a very simple affair (Photos further down the thread.) These are attached to the floor with four 8BA nuts and bolts. A great idea as you can remove the complete units for painting etc. The W irons and springs were one etch and location grooves made for easy location.

Also the underfloor box and gas tank where attached.
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I added an extra overlay to the buffer beams as prototype photos showed the rivet detail and the fact that the beam stopped short of the actual ends. I marked out the rivet detail and punched them out on the rivet machine.

Also at this stage all handrails, except the end corners which are to added, door handles, lamp brackets etc. are now fitted.
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This shows the additional buffer beam overlay and the vac pipes I added as they where not included.
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Now primed and ready for final painting. This shows the simple brake rodding I made up. I used Jim Macgowens 4 wheel coaches I have as a guide.
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The roof comes preformed and just requied a final teak to make a perfect fit. I soldered small offcuts of sprue to each corner to hold the roof nice and snug. This allows for removal in the future. All the seating, from Tower Models, was then prepared for painting as where the passengers.

So into the paint shop and a quick spray with Halfords VW Gambia Red and she was dry in an hour. I used GWR First/Third HMRS transfers on the doors. All black areas where painted with Railmatch weathered black. This is a lovely colour for footboards and the roof.

Here she is on a photo shoot. Very carefully as the black is only just touch dry. Then is back to the drying cupboard.
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Showing the toilet side. The window is actually not a stark as in the photo and looks more like the off white opaque glass which is typical.

To sum up. I never intended this to be an authentic prototype, just a typical type of vehicle that couble be found on a light railway.
DSC03181.JPG
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#21 jazz

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Posted 09 November 2009 - 18:54

Hi all, still side tracking building some of the backlog of wagon kits I have for Pen Y Cwm. This was perhaps the most interesting one completed today. This a a Dragon resin kit and using Hayward wheels. It does have very srprung buffers, thw castting where clean and the turned buffer heads very nice. (The Dinghams will be fitted tomorrow when the paint has hardend off. I also used Dragon tranfers.

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#22 jazz

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Posted 10 November 2009 - 20:44

OK. After doing a little modelling for myself a start has now been made on the David Andrews Claughton. Starting with the tender, the chassis has been quick and easy, all parts fitted perfectly. I hope the body goes the same way. We'll find out tomorrow.

Here are the tender etches.
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A couple of hours on the banch and we have a rolling chassis. The centre axle is sprung in my usual manner.
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All ready for the body.
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#23 Rob Pulham

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Posted 10 November 2009 - 20:59

Nice - maybe I will make such progress in years to come

#24 jazz

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Posted 11 November 2009 - 08:04

Nice - maybe I will make such progress in years to come


Rob, it's taken me many years to get to this stage. Practise, thats all it takes.

#25 jazz

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Posted 11 November 2009 - 20:58

Right oh. A long day at the bench. I messed yp and deleted accidentally deleted some of the build stages, then the camera battery went so I will have to show the finished tender tomorrow.

To be going on with, here is the difficult bit of the build. The small flares.

Being SO small ther are a bit tricky. I bent them over small steel rods and with a bit of tweaking here and there got then to fit nicely. the corners will be the worse to form.
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These were simply filled with low melt solder. then using round tipped burrs in the mini drill plus large round files blended them into the etched flares. These are the tools I used to perform this part of the task. The trick is to go steady and keep eyeballing the corner as you go. If you take too much off. just drop a little solder onto the mistake and start again.
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Here we have the finished lares and corners.
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As I said I will post the finished tender in the a.m., too late now, had enough.
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