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Jazz 7mm Workbench


jazz
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Hello Jazz

Excellent work with all the loco builds you have done. Your posts have have assisted me in my first build of a Fairburn tank where I got bogged down and I have been a follower ever since.

 

Re your problem with your soldering iron. I've got an Antex 660TC soldering station which just started acting up a wee while ago. It was struggling to maintain temperature & really intermittent in operation. One minute you could be soldering away no problem & next it would go cold. It never overheated. Anyway I thought I was going to have to replace it but decided to have a look at the workings of it. On opening up the DIN plug of the iron cable, the two soldered connections of the temperature sensor wires to the plug pins were very poor (just a blob of solder sitting on top really). These were both resoldered (I have separate 25w antex just for electrical work). On checking the same wires inside the iron handle where they connect to the heating element, it looked like they also hadn't been soldered properly. So these were also remade.  This was just done tonight & I tested it on some scrap etch and it worked like new. Result maybe - time will tell. I'd rather the modelling budget went into my next project (black 5 maybe) than on a new iron considering current prices!

Look forward to your further build posts.

All the best

 

Gordon

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Hi Gordon.  I've never had a soldering station, when my original TCS iron failed by not heating up one day I did investigate the interior on it and found nothing amiss. My multimeter fount the element had failed.  The replacement, now digital iron started with the same faults as your station i.e. intermittent heating only to 135 Deg and finally showing the element had failed in the digital window. As it was only two weeks old I was not inclined to pull it apart.  JPR Electrics immediately refunded the return postage but also the full cost of the iron. (They had run out of stock so could not send a replacement)

 

Purchased current one from Squires.  Only been in use for two days and going strong. Fingers crossed it will last a few years.

 

Regards, Ken

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Hi.  The cab/firebox/boiler and smokebox sorted today. Had the same problem with the boiler as with the LFB version.  This time I knew how to resolve it and out came the big file.  All temporarily bolted together OK for now.  

 

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Edited by jazz
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Another day and a bit more done. Now starting on the detailing. A little bit of metal to remove on the half etched upward curve to get the frame extensions at the drop down footplate to fit correctly. Other than that all fairly straight forward.

 

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Hi. Not a lot done today on the WB. (household chores took priority)

 

Still, not a lot left to do on the body now. The detailing is going well albeit slow due having to clean up the castings fist.

 

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Hi. Almost there now. Just the chimney, smokebox door and the pipework below the footplate to add.

 

All quite straightforward but it is worth taking your time to get the cab roof beading on the rear to be as neat as you can manage. (They are in three sections) Also check the cab floor for clearances on the rear wheels, it will need a some removal to clear them.  It will be very difficult to that once it's fitted.

 

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Hi. The Black 5 is now all but done. Just the balance weights to add then running in on the rolling road.  Fitted with an ABC power unit makes running very nice.

 

One tip for building one of these if you are using plunger pickups, make the brake gear to spring out on the brake hangers, makes the fitting of the from plunger so much easier. (Roll back one page, you will see why)

 

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Edited by jazz
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Hi. A new project started today, the Gladiator 6 wheel LNWR coach. This goes together very well.  so far I've proceeded as the kit intended.

 

As usual, detail on the body is done prior to assembly.

 

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Hi.  Not quite finished today, I still have the axle boxes and lower steps to fit. The it's onwards to the paint shop.

 

There are a number of additions I have done i.e the gas pipes to the gas lamps and curved rain rails to the roof. These were copied from prototype photos. Also strengthening strips on the inside of the coach sides near the tops and a spacer bar across them. The sides do need these additions IMHO.

 

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Another nice bit of work, Ken.

Between you building stock lightening quick in North Wales, and Steve doing the same with dioramas in South Wales ...

Do you think it’s something in the water?

Best

Simon

Yes, it's called " no full time work ". : )

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Hi. The gladiator 6 wheel coach all ready to go.  A nice kit to build it is too.

 

Now starting another one for myself. This has been waiting under my bench for a considerable time, the Javelin Bulldog. I love this bulldogs, so elegant loping along with the vac pump clacking away.

 

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Right, of we go on the Bulldog. As usual with my own tender locos, it will have plunger pickups on the tender only. The chassis has gone together with no problems at all. The only mod was my sprung centre axle.  It is a nice touch on these kits that the tender chassis has etched circles where the plungers go.

 

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Ken,

 

Watching with interest. My recent Dukedog build is somewhat erratically described in the “What’s on your workbench” thread on WT. there’s a link in my Porth Dinllaen thread, along with some video of it working rather well.

 

I thought it was a great kit, and it went together well. I used a Warren Shephard tender, as I wanted a little one to go on Tre Pol & Pen. The Javelin one will be used on my forthcoming mogul.

 

Best

Simon

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Ken,

 

Watching with interest. My recent Dukedog build is somewhat erratically described in the “What’s on your workbench” thread on WT. there’s a link in my Porth Dinllaen thread, along with some video of it working rather well.

 

I thought it was a great kit, and it went together well. I used a Warren Shephard tender, as I wanted a little one to go on Tre Pol & Pen. The Javelin one will be used on my forthcoming mogul.

 

Best

Simon

 

Hi Simon.  Quite agree the Javelin dukedog and bulldog as very good kits to build. Impressive layout you have there. I wish mine could be twice the size it is.

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Hi.  Not a lot done today at the WB.  So far the tender is going OK. The trickiest part was the flared curves. Done by annealing and using the Metalsmith bending bars. Then filling the corners with low melt solder and filing to shape. (I use masking tape on the outside a fill the corners from the inside.) 

 

Very quick dabs with the 50w iron and low melt solder in that area to attach the beading or you will destroy the solder in the beautifully finished corners you have created.

 

Tip: You will notice I have not attached the frames yet, the instructions would have you attach them then add the steps. Well I disagree with that because it would be difficult to attach the steps behind the valances with the frames in the way.

 

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Edited by jazz
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Isn't it a good idea to have the frame as a separate subassembly anyway?

 

Interesting.  I've never seen the side frames on a model tender be a separate assembly, I cannot see the advantage of that. Any thoughts on that Miss Prism.  BTW nice to hear from you again.

 

Regards, Ken

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I take your point Ken, and it really comes down to whether the tender is running on inside bearings, as in your case, or outside ones, which tends to be more the norm in 4mm. Dave Stone's 7mm Finney tender has a separate chassis:


 

But take a look at this MOK one, a mixture of inside and outside bearings, and where I'm not sure how the rear two axles are held:

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I take your point Ken, and it really comes down to whether the tender is running on inside bearings, as in your case, or outside ones, which tends to be more the norm in 4mm. Dave Stone's 7mm Finney tender has a separate chassis:
 
But take a look at this MOK one, a mixture of inside and outside bearings, and where I'm not sure how the rear two axles are held:

 

Post #2539 shows a non prototypical inside chassis, with frames, to hold inside bearings designed purely for modelling purposes. The prototype would have had outside bearings attached to the 'outside' frames which in the model are cosmetic. The outside frames are fitted to the footplate of the tender and very close to the footplate valance. It is easier to attach the steps to the rear of the valance first, before attaching the outside frames, due to the small space between the valance and the frames.

Does that explain?

 

Regards

Sandy

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Post #2539 shows a non prototypical inside chassis, with frames, to hold inside bearings designed purely for modelling purposes. The prototype would have had outside bearings attached to the 'outside' frames which in the model are cosmetic. The outside frames are fitted to the footplate of the tender and very close to the footplate valance. It is easier to attach the steps to the rear of the valance first, before attaching the outside frames, due to the small space between the valance and the frames.

Does that explain?

 

Yes, I understood why Ken put those steps on first. (The instructions seem to be a bit crazy to suggest otherwise.)

 

I was merely expanding on the general matter of tender chassis, and the different approaches kit designers and builders have. Horses for courses as usual.

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