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Heaton Lodge Junction


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Thanks, the kind comments are appreciated as always.

 

I’ve been working on an idea to extend the width of the model from 4/5ft to 9ft.

In order to give perspective & distance I’m going to construct around 25 trolleys almost the same height as the layout but each about 4ft wide by 4/6ft long. On these will be modelled further scenery disappearing into the distance ending in a 3ft tall flat backscene.

With these being easily pushed around on wheels I’m thinking it’s a relatively easy way to almost double the width. That’s the idea anyway!

 

Terrific idea, Simon, so how will that effect  the planned finishing date now cos I wanna still be around to see it ? !

 

Cheers.

 

Allan.

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You’ll be around for years yet Allan!

Shouldn’t affect timescales really cos there’s only basic scenery on each trolley fading into the distance..

Think I’ll knock them together from aluminium square box section. There’s a company called metals4u online that also supply 3 way push in joiners for the sections that they can cut to size.

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  • RMweb Gold

One of the best decisions I ever made was to build my layout in sections and have everything in the railway room on castors. Given the number of boards on your layout I reckon it makes a lot of sense. 

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/2091/entry-19250-the-baseboard-waltz/

Those boards look great.  I particularly like the use of hinges as well as castors.

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  • RMweb Gold

Thanks, the kind comments are appreciated as always.

 

I’ve been working on an idea to extend the width of the model from 4/5ft to 9ft.

In order to give perspective & distance I’m going to construct around 25 trolleys almost the same height as the layout but each about 4ft wide by 4/6ft long. On these will be modelled further scenery disappearing into the distance ending in a 3ft tall flat backscene.

With these being easily pushed around on wheels I’m thinking it’s a relatively easy way to almost double the width. That’s the idea anyway!

 

I think that 9ft may be rather more than you need. 6ft should be plenty.

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  • RMweb Gold

I think that 9ft may be rather more than you need. 6ft should be plenty.

 

If the space is there, why not use it?  9ft wide for an O gauge layout will look superb  (though I have a sneaky feeling this is all in T gauge and uses lots of close up photography :) )

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  • RMweb Gold

If the space is there, why not use it?  9ft wide for an O gauge layout will look superb  (though I have a sneaky feeling this is all in T gauge and uses lots of close up photography :) )

 

Yes, the space is certainly there!

 

But Simon wants to take the layout out a few times a year to exhibit. That's a lot of extra volume to shift and to accommodate in an exhibition venue.

 

And then, there's the aesthetic aspect. I think that layouts always look better long and thin. Graham N's Shap has shown how little space you need behind the track to still portray the landscape beyond the railway.

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Yes, the space is certainly there!

 

But Simon wants to take the layout out a few times a year to exhibit. That's a lot of extra volume to shift and to accommodate in an exhibition venue.

 

And then, there's the aesthetic aspect. I think that layouts always look better long and thin. Graham N's Shap has shown how little space you need behind the track to still portray the landscape beyond the railway.

 

For exhibition purposes the 9ft back boards could be left at home and much shorter boards used  for exhibitions only.

 

Just an idea.

 

Cheers.

 

Allan.

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  • 1 month later...

Thanks David, i’ll update within a week or so..

 

The mill basement ive been working on (where the layout is now living) is days away from completion so the target date is the 15th July to restart modelling..

 

Simon

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Inbetween doing the basement out where the layout now resides, thought I'd post some pics of a BR Crewbus I've been spending a couple of hours on every night for the last couple of weeks..

 

Its the first of five that will be part of the layout and the one here is prototype Mk1 so please forgive its many shortcoming. Its heavily weathered mainly to hide its glaring faults but that said I've learnt a lot building it and when finished should look ok from a distance (a long distance :)

 

So for those interested its cab is from the IXO diecast 1:43 model of the Hayes cakes artic available on ebay. Its unfortunately expensive to do since you have to buy the whole artic obviously which is around £40. The body is from an etched kit by PH Designs. Joining the cab to the kit built body means a lot of butchery with a Dremel and puts a new meaning to kitbashing. More like kit slaughtering. 

I decided to install working lights both front and rear as well as the side orange running lights. These work off micro LED's from Gaugemaster and fed from a 3v gate remote type battery. 

I've made a mess of the glazing and the interior so I'll know for next time.. the decals are by Fox and the number plates from Ebay.

I weathered it with dirty black & frame dirt by Precision and AK interactive grease/oil stains for the wheels and the chimney above the water heater. I also ground the tyres flatter at the bottom so it sits better. 

Hopefully Mk2 will be much improved...

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post-25007-0-23769700-1530989839_thumb.jpg

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Nice one!

 

This may save you a little effort - on my previous layout, link below, I used a whitemetal grid and a manhole cover to provide AC to a truck model for lighting. I actually used the track DCC supply, with suitable resistors & LEDs in the truck. The wheels acted as contacts. This of course only works if the wheels are metal! But it allows the truck to be lifted off, and put back on the layout, either way round, and off the contacts if I want the lights off. And no batteries to replace either!

 

Hope it’s of interest

Best

Simon

Edited by Simond
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  • 3 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

There are man caves, then there are MAN CAVES!!!!! Great work there, and to have done all of the building type work yourself, with no external assistance is a feat to be proud of. I wish I had your confidence and skill!! 

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The thought had already occurred to me!

 

On another note B&Q are selling a range of textured spray paints by Rustoleum which includes concrete and limestone as well as many more shades. I’m usung the concrete to paint the trunking..I also use their matt varnish as layering spray to add multiple layers of static grass .

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  • 2 weeks later...

Last few days has seen me working on the next couple boards. The real location at HL in this particular spot is covered in gorse. The best thing I’ve found to duplicate this is Polak’s medium bushes (available on line). I spray each individual bush with varnish then sprinkle on dark green scatter before doing the same with yellow to represent the flowers. A hot gun is used to secure each bush - 200 so far so about half way

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