Simond Posted September 4, 2018 Share Posted September 4, 2018 (edited) It’ll be worth it... Sorry, They’ll be worth it.... Edited September 4, 2018 by Simond Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted September 5, 2018 Author Share Posted September 5, 2018 Looking at the sand box fillers again, I have decided the castings are too tall and have removed them. I will see if I can cut them down, but with the castings being taken on and off so much recently, they are starting to look a little rough. I may need to look at fabricating some new ones. Easy if I had a mill, but I don't....... Aternatively, cutting down the the existing ones may make things acceptable. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted September 7, 2018 Author Share Posted September 7, 2018 (edited) So, I basically did as described above and cut down the sandbox fillers. They look much better now. Had to patch the overly large hole in the tank tops first and the with some pulling and prodding and poking, got everything nicely into position. Now I have to do the other tank..... Edited September 7, 2018 by PhilMortimer Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted September 10, 2018 Author Share Posted September 10, 2018 Way Hay! I think the front tanks are done - at last. Bit of a slog, but as good as I am going to get them. For anyone else building one of these, please be aware that the etched rivet lines in the wrapper are not quite symmetrical about the center line, as are the etched rivet holes on the inboard end of the tank, the bracket for the lamp iron or the etched rebate for the tank filler. Also, the etched markers for embossing rivets on teh top and inboard panels are way to big, so finding the center with the embossing device is a bit hit or miss, hence the initial wonky line of rivets and subsequent installation of wire ones! Apart form that, all is fine. I think this is not unusual with Mr Harris's drawings though. So there are some faults with it, but I have done the best I can. Picture 1 shows rivets being installed by inserting brass rod into drilled. . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr Picture 2 shows the completed tanks. . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr The tanks are now ready for final cleaning and priming. Since the power units have now been completed (bar wiring and installation of the brakes), this means that the front end of the loco's are now complete! Priming and painting will be done when the weather is suitable - it is currently drilling it down and the humidity is through the roof at the moment. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted September 20, 2018 Author Share Posted September 20, 2018 (edited) Quick update with the garratts. With the front tanks now completed, attention has turned to the rear bunker, The vertical stiffening plates either side of the shovel plate were added after opening out and then breaking off the sides for the shovel plate. The stiffeners were tricky to add, basically because they were so small, but with some burnt fingers and square bars, everything was installed squarely after a bit of work. The sides to the shovel plate were removed from the bunker rear etch. They are designed to be fold out, with the actual shovel plate soldered between them. But the fold is too wide and wouldn't enable me to get things square. I felt it better to remove the sides and make up the shovel plate as a sub assembly, and then fit to the bunker. This also allowed me to correct some of the assymetry of the shovel plate. As it turned out, the shovel plate was a push fit between the stiffening ribs, so that could hold it in place whilst it was tacked together. So, currently, we have this. . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr The bunker on the left has the shovel plate soldered into place. The shovel plate sub-assembly can be seen in front of the RH bunker (that has the stiffening ribs already installed). It has also subsequently been soldered into place. One needs to be aware that there is some intterference between the shovel plate and the cab rear sheet, that can hinder the flexibility between the hind unit and the boiler unit. I have had to slightly enlarge the aperture in the cab sheet that accommodates the shovel plate to ensure free movement. It isn't really noticeable. It should be noted that the internal partition to accommodate the mechanical lubricator on the LHS of the bunker has also been installed. The manhole access cover to the rear tank interiors have also been installed. Next up is building the tool box to go on the frame. At this point, the score is that for each loco, both power units are completed, as are the front tanks. The power units are awaiting time for me to strip them down for painting, whilst the front are also awaiting priming. So we are making progress. Edited September 20, 2018 by PhilMortimer 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted October 4, 2018 Author Share Posted October 4, 2018 Finally back to it. Found another nasty - the rear tank/bunker wrapper is like the front tank wrapper - the half etched relief rivet lines are not symmetrical about the centre line. Jim Harris strikes again! Not sure that i can do much about this short of filing them all off and re-embossing them. And I fear that life is getting too short! It's probably not noticable on a casual inspection. And yes, the wrapper is on the frame symmetrically. Similarly, the upper hinge for the for the rear tool box ilif s also off centre. before dealing with that, I need to make the tool boxes themselves. In theory, this is a simple wrapper fitted over an inner frame. In practice, the wrapper was slightly too short and it was a pig to fit. In the end I think I slightly stretched out the brass wrapper to get it to fit. One side side ever so slightly off, but will not really be noticeable once fitted. If still obvious, it may need some very thin wire soldered into place and filed back. We'll see. For a very small part, tit required 2 hours of work and one burnt finger! And now I have a second one to do! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted October 10, 2018 Author Share Posted October 10, 2018 Gradually Plugging away. rear Toolboxes now fitted to rear bunker, though one may have to come off again, as I'm not happy about the centralization. This is due to the etches. Front Bunker sheet reinforcing strip fitted. foot step and lamp iron to do, before adding sand boxes and water breather pipe. Then the rear bunkers are done. Might need to get the paint booth out soon...... Sorry, no pics. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted October 10, 2018 Share Posted October 10, 2018 Phil, Sounds like you’re getting close. I’m still in laser-land making loco shed parts, whilst I can still sit in the garage. When the weather gets colder, it’ll be time to do indoor stuff. Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted October 10, 2018 Share Posted October 10, 2018 don"t forget lifting-eyes on the tanks before you paint! Best, Giles 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted October 10, 2018 Author Share Posted October 10, 2018 Yup, Thanks Giles, I will need to make them. Thanks for reminding me. P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted October 15, 2018 Author Share Posted October 15, 2018 A little more done to the rear bunker last week - first 2 sandbox castings installed. Not getting much time to work on these at the moment. Life is getting in the way. PM Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted October 24, 2018 Author Share Posted October 24, 2018 Inching along with this. Not much to show (no pics I'm afraid, but adding the details to the rear tank. Made up the vent pipe and bracket to hold it in place at the top of the bunker front sheet. Vent pipe not soldered in place yet, as needs some details added. Pondering on adding revet strips around sandboxes a la Phil Parkers model, but where does one stop with the detailing? Also, need to make up some tank lifting eyes as pointed out by Giles. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted October 29, 2018 Author Share Posted October 29, 2018 (edited) Essentially the rear bunker / tanks are now finished. Just have to add some rivet strip surrounding the sandboxes. Tried making my own - the GW press works fine, but cutting the thin strips didn't work. Have some on order, but will need to await delivery - its going to my mom's as I'm a tight wad and object to paying 21 quid overseas delivery for a 5 quid fret. She will be here in a couple of weeks anyhow, so will bring it with her. I have started making up the lifting brackets - a number of failures, but I think i know how to go about it now. So, for a quick diversion, I put this aside and started masking up the Class 91 diesels for top coating over on my other thread. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/120295-phil-mortimers-workbench-4mm-scale-and-7-mm-scale-south-african-class-91-000s/?hl=%2Bphil+%2Bmortimer 2.5 hrs masking per loco - 2 to do. Hope to finish the masking tonight and get them sprayed. Photo's of all to follow. Edited October 29, 2018 by PhilMortimer 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted October 29, 2018 Share Posted October 29, 2018 For things like rivet strips I do the titers then cut either side using a heavy duty craft knife. For 010" brass a few passed are needed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share Posted October 31, 2018 (edited) Picture of the near completed bunkers . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr Still need to do the rivet strips, glue on the sand box fillers, etc, finish the vent pipe (currently too high) and fix in place. Otherwise, This is done. Edited October 31, 2018 by PhilMortimer 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share Posted October 31, 2018 For things like rivet strips I do the titers then cut either side using a heavy duty craft knife. For 010" brass a few passed are needed. Thanks Peter, Yes I tried this, but didn't have good success. May need to try new blade on the knife - It kept wandering when trying to score the brass. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 Do first run lightly, then increase pressure on next ones. Once you have a light line it tends to follow where you want to go. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 Agree. Slowly slowly catchee monkey. Trying too hard makes the blade wander. Stanley knives will cut brass given a few passes. Use a new blade! Another thought. If you rivet the middle of a strip, then cut away either side with a good pair of scissors, it won’t curl, provided the bit you want is a good bit wider than the offcut. You can probably get away with cutting 0.5mm off a 2mm strip, the narrow bit will curl like a spring, but the other bit should be ok. Good Luck! Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share Posted October 31, 2018 (edited) Thanks Guys, Yes, tried all that, but no joy. Will try a new knife (or at least new blade). Normally have little problem scoring / snapping / cutting brass. However, this particular brass sheet just doesen't quite feel the same. May need a fresh brass sheet to play with and experiment, along with a different knife. Will be a couple of days before I can try things out though as I'm on a course at the moment. Thanks, P Edited October 31, 2018 by PhilMortimer Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 Phil, It has a “grain” as it is rolled. The metal crystals are (forgive me, it’s years since I read anything metallurgical) aligned with the rolling direction, and I think it snaps easier across the grain, bends & shears easier along it. HTH Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted November 1, 2018 Author Share Posted November 1, 2018 Good to know. May get a afresh sheet of brass or copper to work with and try again. Cheers, P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted November 1, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 1, 2018 Phil, It has a “grain” as it is rolled. The metal crystals are (forgive me, it’s years since I read anything metallurgical) aligned with the rolling direction, and I think it snaps easier across the grain, bends & shears easier along it. HTH Simon Yes, this applies to brass and nickel silver. Both vary considerably in hardness though, the harder the metal the easier and cleaner it snaps. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted November 7, 2018 Author Share Posted November 7, 2018 Thanks Michael, Yes, there is some thing that just doesen't feel right about this brass shim that I'm using. Now that the SAR class 91's are in green and with a finish that I'm happy with, its back to these and time to find some replacement stock. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted December 5, 2018 Author Share Posted December 5, 2018 (edited) OK, after a month away down in Costa Rica, it is back to the loco's. One thing that had been bugging me was the reinforcing strip on the foot plate at the bunker end - the half etched rebates in which they sit were not symmetrical about the center line, resulting in it sitting slightly lopsided and off center. This is especially noticeable on the hind end units, which have the extra tool box on the rear end. The rebates are centrally aligned on the front units, so was probably a drawing error. I had originally soldered these hind unit reinforcing strips in place and only noticed the assymetry later afterwards (should have checked nd measured properly first). I tried to convince myself it wasn't noticeable. But over time it had started to bug me more and more and even though It was only about 1mm out, it was enough to annoy me. So over the past two evenings, these strips have been un-soldered, the rebates filled with solder and filed flat, and new reinforcing strips manufactured and fitted. All in all, quite a lot of work and not that noticeable unless you look hard, but I feel a lot better about it now. No pictures, as not a lot to show for teh time and effort. Of course, if I'd dealt with it properly in the first place, instead of trying to convince myself it was alright, I wouldn't have had to go back to re-do it properly. Should have listened to myself at the time and only goes to show that putting something off and not dealing with it properly at the time, will come back and bite you in the end. I hang my head in shame and am duly chastised.... So, now I just want to add a few additional lubrication pipes based on photo's and then I will start stripping down the power units for a full clean and prepping them for spraying, which will hopefully be this weekend. However, it is predicted to be very cold over the weekend (not good for spraying) and Diane mentioned something about a Christmas tree, so it may get delayed.... I do prefer 30 degree weather when it is measured in Celsius rather than Fahrenheit! Edited December 5, 2018 by PhilMortimer 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted December 17, 2018 Author Share Posted December 17, 2018 Yesterday was an absolutely foul day. Rain lashing down, cold, gey dreary. Not a day to go outside. So after drying off upon completion of farm chores, I've been fitting the lubricator pipework to the garratts. Its a little bit representational, but based on the photo's in Phil Parkers flickr album. So far I have done 2 of the 4 chassis units. The pipework for the front unit lubricator is best guess based on that observed for the rear one. (The front lubricator is behind the front tank platework extension on the RHS. Only lubricators are supplied in the kit for the rear unit in the cut out, so I will have to source something to fit these). Also, I have found a source for tiny brass beads to fit to the top of the hand grab stanchions om the front of each unit. Getting there slowly. Not a lot to show photographically at the moment. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now