JJGraphics Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 (edited) Ive found 404.. http://www.kernowmodelrailcentre.com/p/54987/32-641Z-Bachmann-Class-491-4-TC-Unit-number-404-BR-Blue-and-Grey :-) Very droll! JJ Edited October 31, 2017 by JJGraphics Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick_Skateboard Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 I've spent some time today modifying the headcode blinds on one end of my TC, I did the same thing on my Thumper. A lot of light bleeds out through the printed headcode, so I've made a cardboard version and coloured it in black with a permanent pen. I scraped the printed headcode off the inside of the glazed panel with a cocktail stick, then slipped the cardboard and a small piece of white paper in between the glazing and the clear plastic fibre-optic part. The result is that the two rectangular blinds are much better defined, and the light doesn't bleed out around them. While I had it apart I sealed the LED all round with black tack, to stop the light bleeding back into the cab too. Before. After. Untreated end. Black tacked end. The light is still too bright, but I'm hoping that when my new Bachmann 36-557 decoder arrives I'll be able to dim the function outputs down. Can anyone confirm this is possible? If not I will slug it with a resistor. Cheers Rick 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RFS Posted November 26, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 26, 2017 With your new 36-557 decoder you'll be able to independently turn off the head code light on the end facing the 33/1. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
metadyneman Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 The light functions are also independently "dim-able" I have dimmed the interior lights on mine so it looks less like there is a floodlight in each coach! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
01276 Posted November 30, 2017 Share Posted November 30, 2017 Sorry if this has been covered already, I did look back and couldn't see any mention of it.. My NSE 4TC arrived the other week, I noticed on one DTSO its says "Network South East" on the side as I would expect, but on the other DTSO it just says "Network" (with no South east). Is this a mistake? Is it just my model that has it missing? Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BR(S) Posted November 30, 2017 Share Posted November 30, 2017 (edited) Sorry if this has been covered already, I did look back and couldn't see any mention of it.. My NSE 4TC arrived the other week, I noticed on one DTSO its says "Network South East" on the side as I would expect, but on the other DTSO it just says "Network" (with no South east). Is this a mistake? Is it just my model that has it missing? Thanks Looks like yours has been missed by the printing machine. Both DTSOs should say Network SouthEast, on the driver's side towards the rear of the coach, and all lettering is present on mine. Transfers are available if you don't want to send it back, or Kernow might be happy to just exchange the DTSO rather than sending the whole thing back. Edited November 30, 2017 by BR(S) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium JDW Posted December 1, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 1, 2017 Sorry to go o/t but I'm intrigued by the unit above - I'm guessing it's an SWT 455? Do you have any more info/pics? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthernMafia Posted December 3, 2017 Share Posted December 3, 2017 An alternative method to installing a Kadee coupling to the TC - I prefer my Kadees at the correct height and use this method on all of my Southern Region units and locos. The Kadee sits where the buckeye coupling in real life actually is, but this obviously requires a small piece of bodging a £300 train ! Firstly you need to remove the coupling mechanism. This can just be cut off but I prefer to remove it and retain for possible future use. The body needs to come off, then the interior, then the circuit board, and then some small bits of plastic that hold it in place with 4 miniscule screws. You'll then need to cut the moulded buckeye off the TC, and drill a rectangular hole (use a rectangular drill bit...) about 4mm wide and 1mm deep as centrally as you can. Next you need a piece of 2.5mm to 3mm diameter brass tube, depending on how tight a fit you want the Kadee. I used 2.7mm as that's what I had and it works well. This can either be stuck directly to the chassis base, or a hole drilled through and stuck to the bottom of the circuit board, as the images show. I find it's easier to get it straight if drilled through. Poke the Kadee through the rectangular hole, super glue the end of the precut brass length (about 5-6mm should do it) poke through the Kadee, poke through the hole in the chassis and allow to go off. Be careful not to get glue on the inside of the Kadee hole otherwise it will not rotate ! 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 Sorry to go o/t but I'm intrigued by the unit above - I'm guessing it's an SWT 455? Do you have any more info/pics? Some details of the build so far in my blog. It is a Bratchell class 455 kit which has been on hold for a bit awaiting overlays for the South West Trains markings. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Henderson Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 Struggling with a 6 function ZEN218 - Decoder Pro is reporting loco not found, is that because their is no motor? The decoder works okay in a Dapol Western. What values work on other decoders for F1 etc? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RFS Posted January 23, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 23, 2018 (edited) Struggling with a 6 function ZEN218 - Decoder Pro is reporting loco not found, is that because their is no motor? The decoder works okay in a Dapol Western. What values work on other decoders for F1 etc? I would suggest putting the coach with the decoder and a loco on the programming track to set the address of the TC. The loco will draw enough current to satisfy the programming process. Then remove the TC coach and reprogram the loco to its old address. That's what I did with my TC and its class 33 buddy. Edited January 23, 2018 by RFS Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 (edited) Struggling with a 6 function ZEN218 - Decoder Pro is reporting loco not found, is that because their is no motor? The decoder works okay in a Dapol Western. What values work on other decoders for F1 etc? Do as RFS suggests, or even swap the decoder into a suitable locomotive, program it, then swap it back into the TC when you are satisfied that all is correct. I temporarily used a Zimo decoder in one of my TCs and that programmed perfectly on the programming track, whereas the Lenz decoders I used for both TCs (after I bought more of them - the Lenz decoders, that is) needed some resistance in line to program correctly. The DCC system you are using can also affect the ability to program non-motorised items fitted with decoders. Edited January 25, 2018 by SRman Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John ks Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 Have you tried POA(programing on the main) OR If your soldering skills are up to it you could connect a resistor(50-100ohm, 5 watt should be OK) across the motor output pins on the lighiing board at the decoder socket When you finish programing you can remove the resistor or, If you put a switch in series with the resistor just turn off the switch until next time you need to alter the programing John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Budgie Posted January 23, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 23, 2018 When you finish programing you can remove the resistor or, If you put a switch in series with the resistor just turn off the switch until next time you need to alter the programing John Alternatively, connect the resistor in series with the programming track and put the switch in parallel with the resistor. Then you can use it with other non-motorised items as well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John ks Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 Alternatively, connect the resistor in series with the programming track and put the switch in parallel with the resistor. Then you can use it with other non-motorised items as well. Budgie Sorry but I don't think a resistor in series with the programing track will help. A resistor in series with the programing track is sometimes used to limit the current that the DCC system can send to a decoder & help prevent a short in the decoder from destroying itself. My understanding is that when the decoder receives an instruction on the programing track it acknowledges that instruction by sending a pulse or pulses of power to the motor & that pulse(or extra current flow) is detected by the DCC System so that the DCC system knows that that instruction has been received. By putting a resistor where the motor would normally be connected the decoder sends the pulse to the resistor (in place of the motor) & the pulse is detected by the DCC system John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RFS Posted January 24, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 24, 2018 If your soldering skills are up to it you could connect a resistor(50-100ohm, 5 watt should be OK) across the motor output pins on the lighiing board at the decoder socket When you finish programing you can remove the resistor or, If you put a switch in series with the resistor just turn off the switch until next time you need to alter the programing John Why make things so complicated? All you need to do is place the TC coach and a loco on the programming track together... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteB Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 If your soldering skills are up to it... If you have reasonable soldering skills, you might consider the Paul Harman DIY function decoder for the TC, rather than wasting an expensive decoder where you won't benefit from the finely honed motor control you paid for. Paul's design can be built on a piece of stripboard with up to 8 function outputs, ideal for things like the TC. That's what I shall put in my TC when I get a round tuit. http://dccdiy.org.uk/function.html Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Roy Langridge Posted January 24, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 24, 2018 If you have reasonable soldering skills, you might consider the Paul Harman DIY function decoder for the TC, rather than wasting an expensive decoder where you won't benefit from the finely honed motor control you paid for. Paul's design can be built on a piece of stripboard with up to 8 function outputs, ideal for things like the TC. That's what I shall put in my TC when I get a round tuit. http://dccdiy.org.uk/function.html Thanks for posting that - it looks really useful. I am just starting to teach my middle son (he is 11) to solder, and that looks like an ideal project which he can use on his layout. Roy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Henderson Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 Resolved by the simple matter of replacing the DCC Concepts decoder with a 6 function Bachmann 36-557. If anyone can get a 6 function Zen 218 to work they will be doing well as the supplied instructions are useless, the Basic CD setting for Zen Decoders document off their website gives default CV values that are different and the Advanced Settings set-up manual is which is allegedly also available is not and DCC Concepts have advised me they have no idea when it will be produced. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve1023 Posted January 28, 2018 Share Posted January 28, 2018 (edited) Kernow 4TC models for sale in Gaugemaster today (all versions). Edited January 28, 2018 by steve1023 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kintbury jon Posted January 28, 2018 Share Posted January 28, 2018 Interesting. And even more interesting Kernow have got them at the preorder price of £269.95. You can save a further 45p if you order the NSE one. The pick of the bunch has to be the pack for £399.99 which consists of the NSE 4TC plus an NSE thumper! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Gwiwer Posted January 28, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 28, 2018 Kernow now offering a small discount on their own commission whilst Gaugemaster have them at full price. Gaugemaster also show unpainted EP test shot images not the fully decorated versions. It’s not the first time Kernow has come to a commercial arrangement (which I am assuming has occurred here) to help move their exclusive items along a bit after the initial sales have slowed a bit. The Thumper units could also be found elsewhere after a while. This doesn’t necessarily mean sales have been disappointing. It could be a part of a carefully constructed business plan. And with a lot of new items about to arrive that little shop in Camborne with the big reputation will need some floor space!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob D2 Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 Hi, Can someone tell me when you get a moment and a tape measure how long a 4tC coupled to a Heljan 33 would be ? I’m contemplating doing a quad plank, and this would be the biggest passenger train, Thanks in advance Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempfix Rich Papper Posted April 6, 2018 Tempfix Share Posted April 6, 2018 Hi, Can someone tell me when you get a moment and a tape measure how long a 4tC coupled to a Heljan 33 would be ? I’m contemplating doing a quad plank, and this would be the biggest passenger train, Thanks in advance Using supplied tension lock couplings for connecting the two, I get 1m28 or 4'2 and a half in old money. You might be able to shave a few mm off that with kadees! Rich Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob D2 Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 Thanks rich, Everything is scaling out at just over 4’ Which was what I was hoping the cassettes would be, other wise I have a scenic the same length as the fiddle.... Now I’m quite willing to run “ half trains” poking out from a bridge but at £70 each it seems a shame to hide them Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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