Gantsville - my first foray into US outline modelling

[NickBrad]

Following on my my planning thread, I thought I should really get around to posting up a build thread following a wonderful trip to the TVNAM show yesterday. 

 

For any that haven't seen, the layout is 1530mm x 450mm, (Roughly 5ft x 18in.) Some compromises are being made in that it's using code 100 concrete sleepered track as opposed to code 83 wooden sleepers, but personally I can live with this as I already had around 6 lengths of track that I purchased back in 2001. I shall either look in to masking the sleepers as wood, or just accept it as this isn't meant as a "layout of a lifetime", simply something for me to get trains running that I can have out permanently and enjoy. Also, dates are being completely dispensed with, anything from the late 40s to the present day could turn up. More important to me is the type of traffic, so no gondolas or tanks cars for me. 

 

 

So on to the base itself, which is made from 50mm Celotex. I chose it due to the weight advantages, but upon further reading, I've come across some concerns over it warping over time. the obvious thing to do would be to attach it to a lumber frame, as I am doing, but then of course you lost those weight benefits as I am unconvinced I am saving much over a sheet of 6mm ply for example. 

 

 

Finally to some pictures and inevitably to the age old question, how much stock is too much?

 

 

Already I have exceeded my capacity, the 3-2-2 inglenook is designed for only 5 cars and one loco at a time and yet, I am after a coach and eventually 2-3 more locos, (the coach will never be used as part of the puzzle, just as a standalone item to be propelled in when the mood takes me). I know that strictly speaking I don't need them and hence why the locos are a long term plan, possibly even for a future layout based on the same RR, but even though this is only essentially a shunting puzzle, with it being based upon a real location, I find myself wanting to model rolling stock that was seen at some point on the line.

 

This final shot shows the total area, amazingly it seems I didn't take any pictures of the full baseboard, but I am sure you can imagine what 2 pieces of celotex looks like, stuck together with no nails adhesive and cocktail sticks skewered through at an angle to help reinforce the joint. 

 

 

The backscene I was very lucky with, it turns out that the backing for an argos bookshelf is perfect if split down it's centre and laid end to end. It certainly saves me going to purchase a piece of hardboard specifically for this.

 

 

Oh, in closing, further to our discussion yeterday Rob about the caboose, I found this picture, so it seems I can get away with using it after all, once I've done some repair/replacement work
 

An update, the trackwork has been slightly revised due to owning longer wagons than originally planned and my own tight fistedness coming back to bite me. 

 

I tried to make the two shorter sidings out of one length of flexitrack, figuring that that extra 2cm wouldn't matter, but of course it does. I had the issue of the cars being too close together where the points diverged, unless the far end set of wheels was teetering on the edge of the track. Luckily I had sufficient space to lose that track from the headshunt end, but it is slightly annoying to have 3cm of track tacked onto the end of each siding/spur. I shalln't worry about providing droppers to it though as locos shouldn't ever reach the ends. My mistake can be seen in the above pictures.

 

Moving on, I had an unsuccessful day trying to track down the screws to attach couplings to my stock. The SW9 and one of my cars came without couplings, two others came with hornblocks, all of which will require fitting with kadees. Sadly, no one in Lincoln seems to be able to supply the tiny beggars. The only info I have to go on is that the thread is slightly larger than the 0-80 screws I have for my Bowser boxcar kit. Any suggestions?

 

I have made some temporary alterations to my two points, that I have "borrowed" from Budgetbrooke,  fusing an unbent paperclip to the switch tie so I can manually change them. I shall be ordering some working hand levers from the US next month, but in the meantime, this makes my job easier, even if it is a little bit of an eyesore.

 

 

Whilst sorting through some bits today, I pulled out a load of old track and was wondering if it's of any use to anyone. I must stress that it's not in great condition and so it would be free to whoever wants it, as long as they cover the postage via paypal friends. There are 16 Triang R491s, some boxed, some not, some complete also, some not, with pieces of trackwork missing. The majority are useable though. There's also a broken left Peco point, a couple of Hornby R613s, (one of which is broken,) a Hornby R612. Along with this is an unmarked insulated x crossing, the same length as the aforementioned points. Finally, a selection of Hornby and Lima setrack pieces. The track is old and little of it is nickel silver, (probably 3 or 4 items). It's not pretty and all will need cleaning up before any possible use. If it can be used by anyone though, then I am happy to pass it on, rather than waste time with ebay listings of just needlessly hoofing it in the bin.

 

Just spent another £20.90 on rolling stock including p&p, but I can happily say I have everything i want now on that front, barring a possible GE 44 tonner a few months down the line. I do expect to be able to get some of that money back though as I only require one of the 2 coaches, the top one is surplus to requirements and the bottom one is set for some considerable, (for me,) modification, to turn it into ARC Alexandria, seen here.

 

Track has been checked for lengths, which I am happy to say is now all correct, one boxcar is going to require cranked kadees as the ones I have are too low atm, not a massive issue though for "testing".  Next jobs are tracking down some decals for my pulpwood car before carrying out it's modifications and respray, also, providing track power feeds, (all four of them,) and sticking the trackwork down permanently, instead of drawing pins for temporary location.

 

The last arrival is here, the Rivarossi heavyweight Pullman. 

 

In this first pic, you can see the window area that needs modification, there should be a double set of windows as seen further along, followed by two full depth windows on this side. The door area on this end is where the cut will take place, to make the observation platform.

 

 

A longer view this time, the massively oversized mesh in the doorway will have to go, along with the oversized brake wheel, although having no pictures of this end of the coach to hand, I may have to resort to modellers licence. You may be also able to work out that I'd struggle to fit even a 40ft boxcar on the siding with this beast, but then it was never my plan to have this as part of the shunting puzzle anyway

 

 

This final shot shows the couplings that came attached with it, i'll have to swap it of course, but I'd love to get hold of some more, they look a fantastic alternative to Brian Kirby method tension locks on my 00 layout.

 

 

Ok, I am at that point when I need ideas. I decided to get started on dismantling the coach ready to start the modifications and first off, you have to push all 6 glazing tabs in on the bottom of the coach to release the glazing/roof unit which is moulded as a single piece. Unfortunately I managed to break one tab, but as it's the end getting modifications, I'm not too worried at this point.

 

 

 

 

As can be seen in the 3rd picture, someone has previously had the coach apart and decided to hot melt the interior in place. This is where the request for ideas comes in, I don't know the best way to remove the interior so I can then remove the bogies and make the modifications etc.

 

Wiring not completed yet as I was unable to find my stock of suitable gauge cables, all i have is some super thin stuff that was advertised as suitable for model railway wiring, but turned out to be what I'd expect to use for individual LEDs, not power feeds. Friday I shall order some 18 gauge stuff that's more in line with what I'd expect to see. 

 

My thoughts have also been spent on considering what to do about the sole planned building for the layout. Originally I was going to build a scale replica of the depot building in Taylorsville, but when I decided to go with the narrower baseboard, it meant that I couldn't fit the full width without compressing everything else. This has turned into a blessing though as the full sized building would have looked totally out of place with my compressed inglenook tracks. Therefore I am going to copy the style of the building, but with a footprint of 10x14cm. This still scales out to 8.7 x 12.2 metres which I feel is sufficient for a small depot designed to handle local goods.

 

Now on to what I have actually been doing, rather than what I plan to do. Well, the truth is, very little. I have removed the end plates on my pulpwood car to begin my replica of ARC #2, I need to fabricate  longer ladders in a couple of places though, then mask off a couple of data panels before the respray. Then it's time to place the battered board on the ends, (made from wooden stirrers,) and source some decals/work out how to get some printed. 

If anyone has any experience with the likes of crafty computer paper and an available working printer, please pm me if you'd be willing to consider printing off some custom decals for me. I will of course be willing to pay for the service.

 

 

I have also dismantled the body on the SW9 in preparation of repainting. I also wanted to add a driver at the same time, but upon opening, it turns out there are already 2 seated inside, albeit in black plastic so almost undetectable from the outside. I'll probably liberate one of them from his seat for reuse elsewhere, most likely driving one of my Bachmann "Charlie's".

 

 

I will have to remake a couple of handrails also by the look of things, there is one missing from the frame, I have one with a broken clip also that can be seen at the back of the bonnet section. Both of these were damaged upon arrival, but I decided to let it slide as ebay's policy now seems to auto set to returning damaged or faulty items rather than receiving a partial refund as I have done in the past. I can see me learning a lot of skills by the time I am finished, but I am sure it is possible if I take my time and keep focused on what I want to achieve. The rolling stock will live on beyond the layout, so it is important that I am happy with my finished product.

 

 

 

-----------------------------------------------

 

That brings us nice and quickly up to date. I'd love any thoughts or suggestions you may have and I shall also leave you with a challenge. The model is loosely based around Taylorsville but being so compressed to fit the inglenook format, (how Lance Mindheim would hate this model,) I decided an alternative name is in order. No one was able to guess why I chose that name in the planning thread I had elsewhere, so if someone is able to work it out, I will pay for their ticket to TVNAM 2017, unless of course you happen to be exhibiting, then i'll pay for a bunch of raffle tickets or whatever. 

Edited January 16, 2018 by NickBrad

[enginelane]

Hi all, I thought it was about time I introduced my US inglenook, Gantsville.

 

It is based upon the Alexander Railroad in NC, a lovely picturesque shortline of 18 miles, fed by the NS at Statesville, north of Charlotte.I will apologise in advance if anything following seems out of place, I have previously posted some of this on another forum that I frequent, (hence Rob will already have seen the first couple of posts worth of content,) but from this point on, I will update as I go in both places, as I realise that the two different forums attract different modellers with differing interests for the most part.

 

 

Firstly, the layout is 1530mm x 450mm, (Roughly 5ft x 18in.) Some compromises are being made in that it's using code 100 concrete sleepered track as opposed to code 83 wooden sleepers, but personally I can live with this as I already had around 6 lengths of track that I purchased back in 2001. I shall either look in to masking the sleepers as wood, or just accept it as this isn't meant as a "layout of a lifetime", simply something for me to get trains running that I can have out permanently and enjoy. Also, dates are being completely dispensed with, anything from the late 40s to the present day could turn up. More important to me is the type of traffic, so no gondolas or tanks cars for me. [/size]So on to the base itself, which is made from 50mm Celotex. I chose it due to the weight advantages, but upon further reading, I've come across some concerns over it warping over time. the obvious thing to do would be to attach it to a lumber frame, as I am doing, but then of course you lost those weight benefits as I am unconvinced I am saving much over a sheet of 6mm ply for example. [/size]Finally to some pictures and inevitably to the age old question, how much stock is too much?[/size]Already I have exceeded my capacity, the 3-2-2 inglenook is designed for only 5 cars and one loco at a time and yet, I am after a coach and eventually 2-3 more locos, (the coach will never be used as part of the puzzle, just as a standalone item to be propelled in when the mood takes me). I know that strictly speaking I don't need them and hence why the locos are a long term plan, possibly even for a future layout based on the same RR, but even though this is only essentially a shunting puzzle, with it being based upon a real location, I find myself wanting to model rolling stock that was seen at some point on the line.[/size]This final shot shows the total area, amazingly it seems I didn't take any pictures of the full baseboard, but I am sure you can imagine what 2 pieces of celotex looks like, stuck together with no nails adhesive and cocktail sticks skewered through at an angle to help reinforce the joint. [/size]The backscene I was very lucky with, it turns out that the backing for an argos bookshelf is perfect lengthwise if split down it's centre and laid end to end. It certainly saves me going to purchase a piece of hardboard specifically for this.[/size]

 

-------------------------------------[/size]

 

An update, the trackwork has been slightly revised due to owning longer wagons than originally planned and my own tight fistedness coming back to bite me. [/size]

I tried to make the two shorter sidings out of one length of flexitrack, figuring that that extra 2cm wouldn't matter, but of course it does. I had the issue of the cars being too close together where the points diverged, unless the far end set of wheels was teetering on the edge of the track. Luckily I had sufficient space to lose that track from the headshunt end, but it is slightly annoying to have 3cm of track tacked onto the end of each siding/spur. I shalln't worry about providing droppers to it though as locos shouldn't ever reach the ends. My mistake can be seen in the above pictures.[/size]Moving on, I had an unsuccessful day trying to track down the screws to attach couplings to my stock. The SW9 and one of my cars came without couplings, two others came with hornblocks, all of which will require fitting with kadees. Sadly, no one in Lincoln seems to be able to supply the tiny beggars. The only info I have to go on is that the thread is slightly larger than the 0-80 screws I have for my Bowser boxcar kit. Any suggestions?[/size]I have made some temporary alterations to my two points, that I have "borrowed" from Budgetbrooke, (my UK based layout,) fusing an unbent paperclip to the switch tie so I can manually change them. I shall be ordering some working hand levers from the US next month, but in the meantime, this makes my job easier, even if it is a little bit of an eyesore.[/size]

 

----------------------------------------

 

Just spent another £20.90 on rolling stock including p&p, but I can happily say I have everything i want now on that front, barring a possible GE 44 tonner a few months down the line. I do expect to be able to get some of that money back though as I only require one of the [/size]2 coaches, the top one is surplus to requirements and the bottom one is set for some considerable, (for me,) modification, to turn it into ARC Alexandria, seen [/size]here.[/size]Track has been checked for lengths, which I am happy to say is now all correct, one boxcar is going to require cranked kadees as the ones I have are too low atm, not a massive issue though for "testing". Next jobs are tracking down some decals for my pulpwood car before carrying out it's modifications and respray, also, providing track power feeds, (all four of them,) and sticking the trackwork down permanently, instead of drawing pins for temporary location.[/size]

 

----------------------------------------

 

The last arrival is here, the Rivarossi heavyweight Pullman. [/size]In this first pic, you can see the window area that needs modification, there should be a double set of windows as seen further along, followed by two full depth windows on this side. The door area on this end is where the cut will take place, to make the observation platform.[/size]A longer view this time, the massively oversized mesh in the doorway will have to go, along with the oversized brake wheel, although having no pictures of this end of the coach to hand, I may have to resort to modellers licence. You may be also able to work out that I'd struggle to fit even a 40ft boxcar on the siding with this beast, but then it was never my plan to have this as part of the shunting puzzle anyway [/size]This final shot shows the couplings that came attached with it, i'll have to swap it of course, but I'd love to get hold of some more, they look a fantastic alternative to Brian Kirby method tension locks on my 00 layout.[/size]

 

(Rob pointed me towards Model Junction for McHenry replacement couplings.)

 

------------------------------------------

 

Ok, I am at that point when I need ideas. I decided to get started on dismantling the coach ready to start the modifications and first off, you have to push all 6 glazing tabs in on the bottom of the coach to release the glazing/roof unit which is moulded as a single piece. Unfortunately I managed to break one tab, but as it's the end getting modifications, I'm not too worried at this point.[/size]As can be seen in the 3rd picture, someone has previously had the coach apart and decided to hot melt the interior in place. This is where the request for ideas comes in, I don't know the best way to remove the interior so I can then remove the bogies and make the modifications etc[/size]

 

(Suggestions have been a dental burr in a minidrill which I need to purchase, or as seen on another thread here, using a centre punch or nail to "mark" a guide hole for a drill bit. For reasons unknown to me right now, I haven't done this yet.)[/size]

 

------------------------------------------------[/size]

 

Wiring not completed yet as I was unable to find my stock of suitable gauge cables, all i have is some super thin stuff that was advertised as suitable for model railway wiring, but turned out to be what I'd expect to use for individual LEDs, not power feeds. Friday I shall order some 18 gauge stuff that's more in line with what I'd expect to see. [/size]

My thoughts have also been spent on considering what to do about the sole planned building for the layout. Originally I was going to build a scale replica of the depot building in Taylorsville, but when I decided to go with the narrower baseboard, it meant that I couldn't fit the full width without compressing everything else. This has turned into a blessing though as the full sized building would have looked totally out of place with my compressed inglenook tracks. Therefore I am going to copy the style of the building, but with a footprint of 10x14cm. This still scales out to 8.7 x 12.2 metres which I feel is sufficient for a small depot designed to handle local goods.[/size]Now on to what I have actually been doing, rather than what I plan to do. Well, the truth is, very little. I have removed the end plates on my pulpwood car to begin my replica of ARC #2, I need to fabricate longer ladders in a couple of places though, then mask off a couple of data panels before the respray. Then it's time to place the battered board on the ends, (made from wooden stirrers,) and source some decals/work out how to get some printed. [/size]If anyone has any experience with the likes of crafty computer paper and an available working printer, please pm me if you'd be willing to consider printing off some custom decals for me. I will of course be willing to pay for the service.[/size]I have also dismantled the body on the SW9 in preparation of repainting. I also wanted to add a driver at the same time, but upon opening, it turns out there are already 2 seated inside, albeit in black plastic so almost undetectable from the outside. I'll probably liberate one of them from his seat for reuse elsewhere, most likely driving one of my Bachmann "Charlie's".[/size]I will have to remake a couple of handrails also by the look of things, there is one missing from the frame, I have one with a broken clip also that can be seen at the back of the bonnet section. Both of these were damaged upon arrival, but I decided to let it slide as ebay's policy now seems to auto set to returning damaged or faulty items rather than receiving a partial refund as I have done in the past. I can see me learning a lot of skills by the time I am finished, but I am sure it is possible if I take my time and keep focused on what I want to achieve. The rolling stock will live on beyond the layout, so it is important that I am happy with my finished product.[/size]

 

 

-----------------------------------------------[/size]

 

That brings us nice and quickly up to date. I'd love any thoughts or suggestions you may have and I shall also leave you with a challenge. The model is loosely based around Taylorsville but being so compressed to fit the inglenook format, (how Lance Mindheim would hate this model,) I decided an alternative name is in order. No one was able to guess why I chose that name in the planning thread I had elsewhere, so if someone is able to work it out, I will pay for their ticket to TVNAM 2017, unless of course you happen to be exhibiting, then i'll pay for a bunch of raffle tickets or whatever.

 

 

You have a plan, track, stock so time indeed to get it started and see where it takes you

[Zomboid]

Can't go far wrong with an inglenook. No ideas on the make quiz though...

[NickBrad]

My first love is oval racing, railways coming second to this.

 

Probably not a great clue to go on for working out why I named my layout Gantsville, but I can say it's linked to Taylorsville, (where the spurs are based,) in some way.

[F-UnitMad]

In answer to one of your questions...

 

No. There is no such thing as "Too much Stock".

 

...or too many locos, either.

[NickBrad]

I'm happy with the stock levels right now, nothing more will be added until I have modified my stock to how I want it, actually, I have the ATSF observation car to offload as I know it's not something I will ever want to run. 

 

Saying that, if an Athearn SW1500 ever came along, sub £40, then I could break with that statement. 

[NickBrad]

Well, I've finished stripping the SW9 down, removing all the glass etc and having no Maskol to hand, I have used PVA instead to blank off the lenses for the lights. Whether this works or not remains to be seen, but I shalln't know until I try.

 

 

I've also just spent 45 minutes painting sleepers with Humbrol Matt 98, most of the lead track is done, but I am tired of it already with the 3 spurs also yet to do. It isn't very neat i'll admit, but it will be getting sprayed over with some dirt colour anyway, I just wanted to mask the majority of the concrete colour first. 

 

 

It's still a bit dark being wet, but as an undercoat, I am satisfied with it.

Edited January 16, 2018 by NickBrad

[NickBrad]

 

Well it's took long enough, but I have finally wired in my first piece of track and run a loco.

 

 

As you can see, it stalled once it reached the points, so I cut the power and had a look. It turns out that the first set of points were not switching fully and so no power was being conducted through. I realise that it's bad form to rely on the point blades to conduct the power and it's for reasons such as this, but I really want to keep things as simple as possible on this one, just so I can complete a model railway in a reasonable time frame, (for me). Also, as I am not using point motors or anything such as this, I didn't want to mess around with frog power switching or any of that malarky this time. After some tweaking, I tried again.

 

 

The controller I am using is as simple as they come, although I do plan to upgrade to something a little more modern soon.

 

 

It should be noted that I haven't cleaned the track yet, hence why I had to crank up the power a little more on the second video to cut through the resistance.

 

The S3 featured is a Proto 2000 model, supplied to me at a very agreeable price by Marshlane of this 'ere parish.

 

 

Also, I realised that I haven't yet explained the name of my railroad. The railroad is based on Taylorsville as I have mentioned in the past, but due to the compression and alteration to become an inglenook, I didn't feel comfortable using the name. So, I instead decided to name it after NASCAR legend Harry Gant who is a native of Taylorsville, indeed is probably one of it's most famous sons.

Edited January 16, 2018 by NickBrad

[Robatron86]

It lives! Now you can play, I mean test it thoroughly.

[F-UnitMad]

I haven't seen one of those old Hornby controllers in years!!

 

Even for a simple layout, it's worth sorting the points so that power isn't reliant on the blades. It's only soldering a couple of linking wires to the respective rails. No need for frog switching, & if it's any consolation, I have been in the hobby since 1978, & never used a point motor, ever.

[Loconuts]

I haven't seen one of those old Hornby controllers in years!!

 

Even for a simple layout, it's worth sorting the points so that power isn't reliant on the blades. It's only soldering a couple of linking wires to the respective rails. No need for frog switching, & if it's any consolation, I have been in the hobby since 1978, & never used a point motor, ever.

 

I have found you need belt and braces if the layout is going to shows, so everything gets a track feed, frogs and all. Do not need motorise point switches, the Blue manual ones work equally well.

 

I only switch the power to the frogs with permanent power using link wires to the blades. I have also just discovered the servo motor switch machine produced by Gaugemaster (Cobalt Analog) which retails at £13 pounds, £3 pounds less than the usual Tortoise switch machine (£16). I get these Gaugemaster units from Track-Shack who provide a excellent next day service. There is also a cheaper version available.

 

Loconuts

[DanielB]

Point motors are overrated. Switching routes by hand is more involving and better represents the realistic operation of a switching crew.

 

I'll be following this with interest.

[Zomboid]

Point motors on a tiny layout like this (and mine) are more effort than they're worth. On a large complex layout probably, but on a shelf switcher they add cost and complexity without making operation any easier. If you don't want to use the giant hand in the sky, wire in tube is enough.

I've seen layouts with DCC controlled points - OK if you've got a computer mimic, but if you're using the handheld throttle thing for them as well as the trains it looks such a palaver...

I had 2 of those controllers once upon a time, but not got any now.

[NickBrad]

I have found you need belt and braces if the layout is going to shows, so everything gets a track feed, frogs and all. Do not need motorise point switches, the Blue manual ones work equally well.

 

Loconuts

 

This is definitely a home only jobbie, if it was any chance of going to a show, I've read enough to know that anything that can go wrong, probably will so I wouldn't risk taking short cuts on anything. 

 

Thanks for all the likes though guys, it's not why I post these updates, but it certainly does help keep me fired up for the project.

[Robatron86]

Just being on the Darkside should be enough to keep you fired up!

 

Edited July 13, 2016 by Robatron86

[Zomboid]

Just being on the Darkside should be enough to keep you fired up!

 

Quite, it's not wise to shut alcos down, so best stay fired up...

[NickBrad]

Mmmmm, goodies
 

"Model Junction Online

------------------------------------------------------
Order Number: 48XXX
Date Ordered: Wednesday 13 July, 2016

Products
------------------------------------------------------
1 x Modern Style Railroad Crossing Warning Sign - 20pcs (TTG-8178) = £3.75
2 x Sprung Operating Ground Throw with Targets (CAB-210) = £7.00
1 x Model Railroad News - June 2016 (MRN-JUNE16) = £4.99
------------------------------------------------------
Sub-Total: £15.74
UK Shipping (England, Wales & Scottish Lowlands Only - Click for more details): £4.50
Total: £20.24

Delivery Address
------------------------------------------------------
Nicholas Bradshaw"

 

Edited July 13, 2016 by NickBrad

[Robatron86]

Making me look bad Nick...

 

 

And that's just with Model Junction!

[NickBrad]

Wow, those are some serious figures on some of them, but you do at least have some pretty locos to show for it. I can see why you were a little surprised at the cost of my 2 switchers now  I am curious about the 2 £0.00 orders though, some kind of loyalty scheme purchase?

[NickBrad]

I hope that you have simply blanked out 3 digits in the order number, and that the order doesn't include a GWR 0-4-2T of the 48XX persuasion...

 

I can reassure you that nothing of GWR persuasion ever comes in my flat, with the exception of the odd Brunel £2 coin. (Talking of coins, I wish I hadn't mistakenly spent my Trevithick coin, have never seen one since.)

[Robatron86]

Pre orders. They don't have a final price until they are in.

[NickBrad]

Aah right, I'm holding off on expensive pre orders for now, although there is that one MoW kit I need to talk to them about some time, which will be made more expensive by me wanting to mate it with a black beetle/spud, even though it may not be possible without extensive butchering of the kit.

[Robatron86]

Is that the 15 ton mack?

[Zomboid]

Dear Rob,

Thanks for keeping model junction in business for me to shop at.

Yours,

A less profligate MJ customer

[Robatron86]

Dear Rob,

Thanks for keeping model junction in business for me to shop at.

Yours,

A less profligate MJ customer

You are more than welcome