DapolDave Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Hi Douglas, sorry about that, i'm over mailed on my account and will clear some mail out now. Take care of those ones ;-) cheers Dave 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwissRailPassion Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Cityfan, Your contract is with your dealer. He bears the cost of the postage etc as he has sold you defective goods. If you bought it from a shop then take it back and get your money back. The dealer is not being fair to you by suggesting any other course. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
217 RIVER FLESK Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Hi chaps, formulating my plans for the disc front class 22 and wanted to throw this past you. Would not having 'eyebrows' above the cab front windows be a deal breaker for you? I ask because if possible (and i'm still checking) i'd like to do D6311 Green SYWP (and this has the brows), D6332 Green with SYWP (not rectangular but peaked panel), D6322 Green SYWP with larger (wider) SYWP, and lastly D6325 Green no yellow warning panel. Thoughts and opinions please, and please take into account that these numbers arent locked down or publicised so feel free to suggest alternatives if you want. cheers Dave A question Dapol Dave, if you initially go down the road of producing the disc front without the 'eyebrows', is there any likelyhood in the foreseeable future that a disc front with 'eyebrows' might be produced? Are there any plans ever to produce a version with the 'eyebrows'? Cheers, Mike C Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Trainshed Terry Posted March 14, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 14, 2012 Yes Please both. Thank you. Terry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DapolDave Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Hi mike, Unfortunately i do not have the facility to change the window area of the cab front. When i designed the tool, something had to give to keep the rigidity of the tooling, and so i chose to fix the cab front windows in favour of putting slides in the tool to change the roof, nose, and sides if need be and at will. Sorry. cheers Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
217 RIVER FLESK Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Hi mike, Unfortunately i do not have the facility to change the window area of the cab front. When i designed the tool, something had to give to keep the rigidity of the tooling, and so i chose to fix the cab front windows in favour of putting slides in the tool to change the roof, nose, and sides if need be and at will. Sorry. cheers Dave Hi Dapol Dave, Many thanks for your prompt responce. I can see where you are coming from about wanting to have a wide number spread across the class, but my own personal preferance would be to go for disc locos with the 'eyebrows' - far easier for people to remove the 'eyebrows' at home than to add them, should they want to create a particular loco. If it's too late to incorperate them in to this front version, might we see a version at some point in the future with 'eyebrows' with a third front style? To me the 'eyebrows' give the locos a feel of being an early design i.e., not as neet & tidy as some of the later classes - plus they would match the D600s. Anyone else out there with a preferance for / against 'eyebrows'? Cheers, Mike C Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Endacott Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 This seems to be a job for one of the detail manufacturers and a tube of glue! Geoff Endacott 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flood Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 This seems to be a job for one of the detail manufacturers and a tube of glue! Geoff Endacott Shawplan step this way.... Hopefully a small etch wouldn't be too difficult to produce. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardupton Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 Help with headcodes would be appreciated. I have just acquired a Kernow weathered 22 and wish to fit headcodes. Since I am very much a novice at alll things practical am I right in assuming that the headcodes as supplied are supposed just to be stuck over the glass pannel ? I have noticed elsewhere in this forum that people have used headcodes from other models such as the Heljan 52 which is what I intend to do but for the life of me I cannot remove the glass pannels. I have tried the blue tac method which worked brilliantly with the class 17 but is not having any effect this time round. Any suggestions would be appreciated... The valences that seem to have caused issues fitted well and were the least cause of stress ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rugd1022 Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 (edited) Hi Richard, If you should go down the route of using Heljan or some other headcode sheets, you could just fit them directly onto the front of the glass and they would still look ok. You'll just need to trim them carefully to fit the apurtures and press them home gently with the end of a scalpel or craft knife blade, perhaps with a tiny dab of glue on the back. The glass pieces on my 22 are sit back quite a bit so the Heljan headcodes I'm using fit nicely into the holes and still look 'right'. Hope that helps. The only snag I've found with my 22 is getting the cab interiors out, they just don't want to budge so I'll leave them for now... got plenty of other stuff to do anyway, with repaining mine into BSYP livery Edited March 18, 2012 by Rugd1022 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardupton Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 Hi Richard, If you should go down the route of using Heljan or some other headcode sheets, you could just fit them directly onto the front of the glass and they would still look ok. You'll just need to trim them carefully to fit the apurtures and press them home gently with the end of a scalpel or craft knife blade, perhaps with a tiny dab of glue on the back. The glass pieces on my 22 are sit back quite a bit so the Heljan headcodes I'm using fit nicely into the holes and still look 'right'. Hope that helps. The only snag I've found with my 22 is getting the cab interiors out, they just don't want to budge so I'll leave them for now... got plenty of other stuff to do anyway, with repaining mine into BSYP livery Thanks for that. That was going to be plan 'B'. I am much reassured. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flood Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 I've done exactly the same as Nidge suggested. I haven't even glued them onto the glass as I had to trim the Heljan Western headcodes to first fit snuggly. I did cover the headcodes with gloss varnish once they were in though, to give the impression of a glass front. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
neal Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 If you don't have spare headcodes, and can put up with the slightly small font on those supplied, this is an alternative way to fix them and make them more legible Stick the chosen Dapol ones to white self-adhesive paper, carefully cut around them, black the paper edges where cut, then peel off backing and carefully adhere to the boxes. These provide clearly legible numerals when unlit. When illuminated, the paper diffuses the lighting from within so that it is more even. Self adhesive paper removes the risk of uneven adhesive showing through the headcode. It also has some 'give' to align correctly, and is easy to remove if you wish to change the headcode at a later date This also preserves the gloss of the Dapol decal, to give an impression of glass. N 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubbles2 Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 (edited) Or you could put the Heljan headcodes behind the glass from inside, surely thats where they should be. Just cut for a snug fit, no fixing necessary. http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h87/Debe2233/DSCF4267.jpg[/img]"]http:// Edited March 18, 2012 by bubbles2 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted March 18, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 18, 2012 Yup Done that with precision labels backlits on D6320 too Removing the cab interior may not be for the faint hearted - lots of loud complaining noises from the model and the modeller - but all achieved ultimately without tears. Just gently ease the loco body side away from the cab interiors. Once you have the headcode glazing exposed fix the digits to the inside with a dab of gloss varnish, leave to dry and reassemble Thanks to Trevor H for noting the very same loco on 9Z44 heading north through Cheltenham Spa - thats the code now carried at one end, 8.51 Gloucester tripper at the other end - loco currently with Jimbo for correction of OHL flashes and addition of TOPS panels. Anyone got a source of stencil type shed code transfers as used on WR at this time please? Will do some photos/video (Howes sound chip currently installed) next time layout is up Cheers Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DapolDave Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Hi guys More views of the front with some word done since last time! Enjoy cheers Dave 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karhedron Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Ooooo, heacode discs! Which style do you plan to put on the N gauge version? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DapolDave Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Hi Matt, what N gauge version? cheers Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karhedron Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 what N gauge version? The one I have been hoping for desparately since you first announced the class 22. Pretty please? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-CRS Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 The one that you have said your doing in the autumn, ong with the western. When in April is the catalogue due, see you at Alley Pally on the weekend. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DapolDave Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Hi Richard, Dont be so impatient. I havnt the faintest idea when in April the catalogue is due. cheers Dave 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Y Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Dont be so impatient. Well; it stops them mithering me about when MI3 is due out. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karhedron Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Dont be so impatient. I havnt the faintest idea when in April the catalogue is due. The 1st of April might be an apt date. Then you could string us along for a bit longer as to whether it is the real catalogue or not. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DapolDave Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 I think its fair to say it wont be the 1st of April. lol Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PLD Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 So reading between the lines: An N gauge Class 22 will be in the Dapol Catalogue which will come as a suplement in a polly bag with MI3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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