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Scratch-built card and styrene structures (based on real buildings around London Bridge)


grahame
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Thanks for the flurry of likes/appreciation and comments for the composite pics. It is only a rough mock up of what will be the back right hand end of the layout - I do have other buildings for other sections of the layout. And the biggest building challenges, the terminus train shed and completing/detailing the two tall high rise blocks (I have made basic shells for them), is yet to be attempted.

 

Thinking about the vista I guess having made specific buildings, based on real ones even if they are not exact drop dead replicas, does help set the scene and generate atmosphere. What I do tend to tire of seeing (at exhibitions) is rows of Metcalfe type (or other kit makes) terraced buildings used to represent an urban scene but without any detailing added or modelling attempt at individualising them and making some different from the others - much as real inhabitants try to individualise their property with colour and additions such as extensions, skylights, porches, whitewashing, cladding and so on.

 

I also tend to think that rows of two up two down terraces tend to say 'suburban' rather than inner city centre 'urban' which is what I'm trying to achieve, so perhaps there is some latitude. It's horses for courses and making and using the most appropriate buildings is essential in setting the scene and achieving the right atmosphere. Nonetheless here's a pic of a 'terrace' for another part of the layout (front left) which goes to show that there are often all types of buildings jostling together in an urban scene;

 

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G.

 

 

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Damn, bad news at the hospital yesterday. I've got to go in for another more invasive operation, and quite quickly. 

 

Anyway to take my mind off it I've done a little more modelling this morning. I've prepared the second master ready to make the mould forming box around it. Just a little tidying up on the ends (sides) to make sure they will form smooth and flat surfaces where they will need to butt up together once a number have been cast. Then I'll make both mould boxes and hope that the chemicals turn up today or tomorrow. The RTV mould material takes quite a while (at least 24 hours to set) while the resin castings are set in minutes once the mould is prepared and the chemicals mixed and poured in.

 

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G.

 

 

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The masters are now mounted on boards and shuttering (just left over 1mm plasticard) glued around to form the mould box frames that the RTV compound will be poured in to:

 

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G.

 

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I can't go any further ATM with the viaduct walling (until the casting chemicals arrive) so my mind is now thinking about starting a further building project.

One thing I'm considering is some of the through station platform buildings and canopies - although the canopy edging will probably require casting to replicate the distinctive brown GRP trim. I've a few pics to go on and some overhead views of the platforms/station before it was transformed in to the soulless poorly designed modern monstrosity it is now - not that the older 70s/80s and 90s version I'll be making was exactly state of the art and memorable or a pleasurable passenger experience.

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I need to source some more suitable pics and work out the plan for the platforms as I'll only be making two (rather than three) through island platforms. So on to a little research.

 

I'm not sure if I've mentioned or posted pics before, but I've already mostly made the rather airless and boxy passenger footbridge and stairways:

 

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G

Edited by grahame
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Possibly, although I find etches more expensive than casting and the similar brown GRP panels on the footbridge were made by casting. And just 10 minutes ago the chemicals for casting arrived so now I've got the gear, but we'll see as I've got to do an etch for details to go on some Cemflo wagons:

 

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G
 

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The first mould has cured overnight and I've removed it from the box shuttering. It seems fine with the only couple of bubbles on one arch on the inner edges where it will be easy to cut them off and file smooth. I had banged the edge of the mould for quite a while just after the compound was poured to help encourage bubbles to rise and evacuate. All the relief and details on the front surfaces look to be very nicely formed and all present. 

 

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Unfortunately I had ordered the wrong kit - a far too small one and I've used all the RTV silicon on one mould. I thought I'd ordered the same one as before, which would have been sufficient, and wondered why it seemed cheaper. Now I'll have to order some more and wait before I can form the second mould. But I'll be able to make some castings from the first.

 

Just one other consideration and that is whether this part of my thread (about resin casting) should be elsewhere other than in the 'Cardboard Buildings' section - but as it's all part of my making buildings effort I'll leave it unless anyone complains.  

 

G. 

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And here's the first cast pulled from the mould. Just a little tidying up, cleaning and a primer coat and it should be able to see all the details and defects:

 

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But I've got to go out now to do a little shopping so that'll have to wait.

 

G.

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The first two castings, cleaned up and primed. It shows there is a little work to do in filling a few holes but nothing difficult or tricky - just a simple matter of wiping some filler in to the holes where required (when I find my tube of filler):

 

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Overall I'm quite pleased with how they've turned out.

 

G

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The first two castings, cleaned up and primed. It shows there is a little work to do in filling a few holes but nothing difficult or tricky - just a simple matter of wiping some filler in to the holes where required (when I find my tube of filler):

 

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Overall I'm quite pleased with how they've turned out.

 

G

 

Superb, can't wait to see the whole wall as I suspect it's going to be quite impressive.

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I've cast half a dozen now but thought I'd better stop as I need to store them until they can be used and having a big pile just means more care in looking after them. I need to order some more RTV silicone to make the mould for the trainshed wall sections so thought while waiting for it to arrive I'd start on a new project perhaps a master for another mould that can be produced at the same time as the trainshed wall mould. In the meantime here's three sections of the viaduct arches to give an idea of how it will look as a longish row (not forgetting that a plain wall section needs adding on top):

 

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G.

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I've been slowly adding a few details to the 'building' site scene although any progress is difficult to see (both now in photos and probably when it gets fitted in place on the as yet unbuilt layout). I'm also still not sure about the use of a crane so here's a pic showing it roughly in place. However, the cleared land where it is located (behind 7 Holyrood Street) looks like it was used for storing building materials and I was thinking of adding a portacabin in that area. Anyway it's a good excuse to show another pic while I mull over the options:

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G
 

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I've realised I can't do much on the platform buildings/canopies as I don't currently have enough research material and really need to know the platform width and height (which wont be established for a some time yet) so my attention is turning to the building 29-33 Tooley Street. I'm avoiding the scarily complex and fancifully detailed Denmark/Emblem House building next door for the time being. 

 

29-31 is a fairly substantial grade II listed building which I believe is now part of the London Hospital complex as a woman's centre and was originally shipping offices. It is listed under the Planning (Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas) Act 1990 as amended for its special architectural or historic interest. The listing description includes: "c1840. Yellow brick with stucco dressings and recent timber ground floor. Stucco cornice and blocking course at roof with parapet over central section (No.31) with cornice and low, pediment-shaped blocking course. Symmetrical plan with central section slightly advanced. 3 storeys and full attic storey, 3 bays (of 3 windows each). Ground level has C20 timber shop fronts. Sash windows with glazing bars in stucco architraves to all floors. 1st-floor windows have frieze and cornice, No.31 with console brackets and triangular pediments above. Wide sill band with panels under windows. 2nd-floor windows have bracketed sills, with cornices to No.31. Stucco frieze and heavy modillion cornice above 2nd floor.

 

The centre section top frieze incorporated the company name Weddel and Co Ltd, possibly in raised lettering, who were meat importers and I believe still exist but the words appear to have been removed in it's modern state. The green painted ground floor gives little clue as to the occupants or use today. I have taken some photos of the building but can't seem to find them ATM (if I recall they weren't very good being taken in a rush crossing the road) and there doesn't seem that many on the web although the Google maps street view gives good views of how it is currently. There is probably enough there to draw up some plans to make the model.

 

G.

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I've been doing some checking of the maps/plans, measuring, and working out. And I've drawn up a rough, to full size, plan for the building. There are a couple of corrections to it that I'll need to make when I start marking out and cutting. The frontage is going to be at an angle to the backscene board so the flank walls will be of unequal length, and oddly the right hand one is not at right angles to the front:

 

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G.

 

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I was checking this out on Streetview earlier today. It's quite odd to move up the street and be able to pick out the buildings that you've already done (at one point I found myself thinking "oh, here's the Shipwright's Arms coming up", even though I don't know that area at all).

 

Good luck with the op: looking forward to seeing you back in the modelling saddle as soon as possible.

 

Jim

Edited by Jim Martin
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These are the only photos that I can find of this building - I have more of Emblem House, but not 29-33.

Two were taken in January this year and the other in 2008, but the building is much the same, it would seem. I have probably uploaded the 2008 before.

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Keep up the good work.

and have a speedy recovery

 

Phil

Edited by phil_sutters
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I've started with the usual framework made from mount cardboard. I've decided that although the building is at an angle to the backscene that I'll keep the flank walls square rather than at odd angles as in the real thing. Most people probably won't notice (and probably don't notice at ground level) and it'll help keep the three roof elements relationship simple. Again they can't be seen from the ground but they are not all symmetrical and square to each other, yet making sure they are will be easier and stop it looking a bit odd or like I've made a mistake in the modelling.

 

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G.

 

 

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I've added a few fillets to strengthen and hold the framework square, a few internal walls (required as view blockers) and started on the roof tents. These will be covered in Redutex tiling. It's all been simple and straightforward card cutting and gluing so far:

 

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G.

 

 

 

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The central roof section basic framework is now in place along with a couple of chimney stacks. I was quite surprised how few chimneys there are on the building (perhaps it was quite cold in the winter or they had some new fangled central heating system). The top has also been given a coat of grey primer. This serves two purposes - it enables you to easily see areas that need a little correction work (filler, filing, and so on) and it coats any hairs on the card that then harden and can be gently filed off with a fine soft sanding stick.

 

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G.

 

 

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A change of medium to the brick embossed plastic frontage. I didn't have enough of the Slaters N red brick plasticard but I do have a few sheets of South Eastern Finecast N gauge Flemish bond white plasticard that I'd purchased a few years back and thought I'd give it a try. With a sharpened pencil I've marked out the window apertures (for the outer two panels) ready to cut and put a fresh blade in the knife:

 

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G.

 

 

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A change of medium to the brick embossed plastic frontage. I didn't have enough of the Slaters N red brick plasticard but I do have a few sheets of South Eastern Finecast N gauge Flemish bond white plasticard that I'd purchased a few years back and thought I'd give it a try

This should be interesting. I have a sheet of SEF embossed sheet which I was planning to experiment with today. I don't know about the Slater's sheet, but the stuff I have has either been vacuum-formed or else moulded between two plates, each with the brick pattern on it. It's very nicely done, but the rear face is no smoother than the front and there's no flat surface to stick anything to, whether that be attaching a completed wall to a shell or laminating to make recesses for doors or windows.

 

Jim

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I've now cut out all the windows for the upper floors on all three panel. Here they are simply resting in place:

 

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Next is to work out and make the ground floor frontage. Apparently it's a later wooden addition so presumably is over the brickwork but I'm not sure when it was added. This picture here: https://www.architecture.com/image-library/ribapix/image-information/poster/shipping-offices-2933-tooley-street-southwark-london-seen-from-the-southwest/posterid/RIBA58154.html shows it quite different in 1982 so was probably added quite recently. I prefer the earlier version, which would be more appropriate for the layout, but it's difficult to see details (the pic is quite low res). 

 

Perhaps I'll try and design and knock up something based on it. Hopefully I should be able to cut it out as a separate assembly (in three sections) from plain plasticard.

 

G. 

 

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This should be interesting. I have a sheet of SEF embossed sheet which I was planning to experiment with today. I don't know about the Slater's sheet, but the stuff I have has either been vacuum-formed or else moulded between two plates, each with the brick pattern on it. It's very nicely done, but the rear face is no smoother than the front and there's no flat surface to stick anything to, whether that be attaching a completed wall to a shell or laminating to make recesses for doors or windows.

 

 

Yes, that sounds like what I've got. The rear side is not too bad with just minimal indentations leaving it overall fairly smooth - certainly okay to glue it to other plasticard (or even cardboard). The front relief side has a few (randomish) single bricks that are more proud than the others. They might cause a little difficulty to glue layers (such as friezes) over but should be easy enough to file smooth where necessary. 

 

G.

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