RMweb Gold tractionman Posted September 22, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 22, 2016 I see Golden Valley Hobbies Barclay 0-6-0 loco 'Ajax' is now in stock at retailers. The retailers are describing the model as 00 and 1:76 scale, is that correct? http://www.hattons.co.uk/196488/Golden_Valley_Hobbies_GV2018_Barclay_0_6_0T_Ajax_in_lined_black_livery/StockDetail.aspx Does anyone have one? Presumably it is based on this: http://www.iwsteamrailway.co.uk/Ajax.aspx I'm tempted, seems a good price too (£54 at Hattons). The GVH web-site describes it thus: "Petroleum Black Ajaz 0-6-0 Petroleum black livery with Red and white lining to water tanks and coal bunker. Red coupling rods and buffer beam. Ajax name plate printed onto the body. Based on Barclay 0-6-0 loco purchased in 1918 by the Sulphide Corporation of London. Extensive travels via the War Department and Persia before use in several UK locations: Swansea, Wales Stanton Iron Works, Sheffield Harlaxton Ironstone Quarries, Grantham Produced by Electrotren exclusively for Golden Valley Hobbies. Available from us and selected good model shops. DCC Ready - 6 pin socket. Requires micro decoder such as CT Electronic DCX76ZF Fitted with UK Hornby style couplings." all the best, Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_mcfarlane Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 It's an HO scale Spanish model. It's appeared in a few British liveries before. It has the same number of wheels as the loco it's supposed to be but that's about the only similarity. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edge Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 Yeah, its defeinitely not protoypical for anything whih ran in the UK. However, the chassis is a very sweet runner and is one of the very few 0-6-0 chassis out there with otuside valve gear - which is great for any number of industrial locos Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 Yeah, its defeinitely not protoypical for anything whih ran in the UK. However, the chassis is a very sweet runner and is one of the very few 0-6-0 chassis out there with otuside valve gear - which is great for any number of industrial locos And O-16.5! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 47137 Posted September 26, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 26, 2016 (edited) I bought one because it looks adaptable. The wheelbase is 21 + 24 mm, the wheels are 14 mm diameter. So there should be uses in H0 and 00. The motor is wholly within the side tanks so there is an easy entry into 0-16.5 by removing the cab and adding a suitable driver figure and perhaps a taller chimney. The drive is to the leading axle so it might reduce to an 0-4-2. I've seen a similar model where the owner removed the outside valve gear and changed the shape of the cab and made quite a convincing British H0 loco, but unfortunately I cannot remember the prototype. There is a topic here (70+ replies) and also a topic on similar models here but unfortunately the pictures have been lost. - Richard. Edited September 26, 2016 by 47137 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5050 Posted September 26, 2016 Share Posted September 26, 2016 And O-16.5! One of my clubmates has rebuilt a couple of these (and the saddle tank version) into NG locos. They look good. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayEllis Posted September 27, 2016 Share Posted September 27, 2016 It's a very smooth and slow runner. Can't comment on pulling power, however it is fairly forgiving of rough track. I'm in the process of donating the chassis to an unidentidfied white metal 1361 kit. For those of you wanting to use the chassis for another loco, you may find it necessary to remove the weights - which are fairly bulky and attached to the motor. The weights are held in place by a sticky adhesive and are easily removed - I managed to pull them off. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dunsignalling Posted September 27, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 27, 2016 These locos have been available in various forms (there's been a saddle tank, too) before and there is another thread showing various uses, one of which was a rather attractive "might-have-been" ex-LSWR Dock Tank created by fitting the mechanism under an old Tri-ang 'Nellie' bodyshell. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted September 27, 2016 Share Posted September 27, 2016 Here's mine on an older chassis, with a cut down Finelines Hunslet 4-6-0 body. I didn't build it. It's currently in bits as the motor went up in smoke, and I haven't fitted the replacement yet. It also appears that the back-to-back is too wide on all the wheels, so that needs looking at too. It was a nice runner until it took up smoking though, and hopefully will be again soon. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium it's-er Posted September 19, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 19, 2017 My Golden Valley 0-6-0ST is a lovely model on a lovely chassis - I love that chassis with its tiny driving wheels and outside valve gear. However it 'smokes' when power is applied. I've been investigating: when power is applied, smoke arises almost immmediately from the bushes set deep within the motor unit. The armature is able to turn fairly freely, the wheels are able to move, and I've checked that the base plate isn't screwed too tightly. The power wire is attached to the motor on the left (as viewed facing forward) at rear of the motor: when power is applied flashes appear within the plastic moulding there, and smoke arises from the bushes as you look down on the motor from above. Has anyone else come across this? and know the solution? I'd be delighted to know if there is a solution, please! John Storey Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted September 19, 2017 Share Posted September 19, 2017 My Golden Valley 0-6-0ST is a lovely model on a lovely chassis - I love that chassis with its tiny driving wheels and outside valve gear. However it 'smokes' when power is applied. I've been investigating: when power is applied, smoke arises almost immmediately from the bushes set deep within the motor unit. The armature is able to turn fairly freely, the wheels are able to move, and I've checked that the base plate isn't screwed too tightly. The power wire is attached to the motor on the left (as viewed facing forward) at rear of the motor: when power is applied flashes appear within the plastic moulding there, and smoke arises from the bushes as you look down on the motor from above. Has anyone else come across this? and know the solution? I'd be delighted to know if there is a solution, please! John Storey That's rather like what happened to mine. The motors aren't designed to be repairable, so you almost certainly need to replace it. I found my replacement on eBay, although I haven't fitted it yet. I'm hoping to convert the loco to radio control, so will now probably fit a 3 or 6 volt motor instead. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold highpeakman Posted September 20, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 20, 2017 That's rather like what happened to mine. The motors aren't designed to be repairable, so you almost certainly need to replace it. I found my replacement on eBay, although I haven't fitted it yet. I'm hoping to convert the loco to radio control, so will now probably fit a 3 or 6 volt motor instead. I don't think that this is a new problem. I purchased one of these Electrotren 0-6-0s in the guise of a Taff Vale engine about three or four years ago from Golden Valley and it initially ran very well but then smoked and gave up. Golden Valley took it back and repaired it for me at that time. Their service was good and I seem to remember that they said the problem was something to do with the insulation on the armature wires breaking down. I understood that quite a few models at that time suffered from this problem. While it runs OK now, I have not used it much since so don't know if the repair (a new motor I believe) is long term effective. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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