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'New Colletts from Old'


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I'll follow this with interest ! I really should have done more with the roof on mine, particularly removing the transverse beading and replacing it more accurately in the correct position with thinner plastic strip. I hadn't thought about the profile however as I kept the original Hornby ends. I'll probably keep them for the Ocean Mails conversion too but I'd be keen to see how your's develops.

 

Tony

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410 micro shears be the ones!

You can get them cheap from a chap in Hong Kong on the bay of thieves.

(They mght not be genuine but they do the job)

Edited by lofty1966
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I've enjoyed reading this thread it's good to see some quality cut and shut & superdetailing work, I know of several other members on the forum reworking these old Collett's when I acquired 12 new Hornby Collett's the old ones they were poor by comparison and only fit for the bin on seeing another Collett Coach thread earlier in the year I started to chop these old coaches about 4 are now full brakes 2x K38 & 2x K42 1 Brake comp' L/H E148 all were converted with Comet parts, the 3 H33 dinners I have being retained are to receive new buffers, corridor connectors, shell vents, hand rails, battery boxes and gas tanks a further 2 will end up as a brake comp' R/H E127 L/H E128, 2 all thirds C67's and the last 3 will be decided on after a bit of research I'm open to ideas.

70ft South Wales Stock , D94 left n right , A18 (get that Razor saw sharpened20161120_231045_zpsqiskgq54.jpg20161120_230920_zpsxd8mtrim.jpg20161120_230854_zps0d8ypcwo.jpg20161120_230659_zpsosztj8t7.jpg

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Do we need a new topic "New Colletts from old - modified Railroads" or can Prometheus alter his OP title?

 

Yes I will keep posting on this (it will keep my nose to the grindstone - ouch). 

 

Done - good idea and it opens up the scope...

 

Tony

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I suppose the problem with comet ends might be that it highlights that Hornby roof profile may be wrong

I don't know if they are still like it but IIRC all Comet kits originally incorporated the same roof profile - LMS, I think..  All their ends would presumably match that.

 

John

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I don't know if they are still like it but IIRC all Comet kits originally incorporated the same roof profile - LMS, I think..  All their ends would presumably match that.

 

John

Yes, Comet ends and Comet roof go together with a little fettling of both. Comet ends and a Hornby or whatever roof would probably need some reshaping of the ends. 

Without looking I think other roof extrusions are available. Does David Geen do GWR ones for example?

Some good products being made here.

 

Phil

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Yes, Comet ends and Comet roof go together with a little fettling of both. Comet ends and a Hornby or whatever roof would probably need some reshaping of the ends. 

Without looking I think other roof extrusions are available. Does David Geen do GWR ones for example?

Some good products being made here.

 

Phil

Roxey Mouldings used to plastic ones, a long time ago.

MJT list some:- http://www.dartcastings.co.uk/mjt.php#CarriageComponents-Roofs&Fittings

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Having caught up by 'agreeing' and 'liking' and 'thanking' everyone (especially Prometheus, most grateful), I have continued to examine the pre-Railroad roof shape, presumably the same as a 'Railroad' one.  In fact the top elliptical curve is OK, but there is this doming at the side which does catch the light and shadow (see roof photos earlier in this thread).  It's not a big deal but I thought I would try and solve it if I could.  

 

I have a butter-coloured pre-Railroad E128 that is sacrificially-available to practice on.  I shall begin with trying to remove the dome effect with a long heavy file (the plastic is very pliable and forgiving on these older Triang / Hornby models).  If I 'go through' before the desired shape is achieved, I will consider then sawing the roof off and replacing with a MJT or Comet roof (thanks for the reminder on MJT,  available at

 

http://www.dartcastings.co.uk/mjt.php#CarriageComponents-Roofs&Fittings for £2 each.

 

  but I don't see any available on Roxey web site.

 

The ones on Comet are priced £3.60.  I am not quite sure what is going on here, as the 285mm width size is indeed what you need and the MJT one is 'discontinued'.  I may ring Dart Castings for advice.  

Edited by HowardGWR
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.... I think other roof extrusions are available. Does David Geen do GWR ones for example?

 

I've only seen (and had) one type of roof from David Geen - this is a thin plastic, vac-formed, roof that I wanted to try on a Worsley Works Railmotor body. It would benefit from some reinforcement.

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Having caught up by 'agreeing' and 'liking' and 'thanking' everyone (especially Prometheus, most grateful), I have continued to examine the pre-Railroad roof shape, presumably the same as a 'Railroad' one.  In fact the top elliptical curve is OK, but there is this doming at the side which does catch the light and shadow (see roof photos earlier in this thread).  It's not a big deal but I thought I would try and solve it if I could.  

 

I have a butter-coloured pre-Railroad E128 that is sacrificially-available to practice on.  I shall begin with trying to remove the dome effect with a long heavy file (the plastic is very pliable and forgiving on these older Triang / Hornby models).  If I 'go through' before the desired shape is achieved, I will consider then sawing the roof off and replacing with a MJT or Comet roof (thanks for the reminder on MJT,  available at

 

http://www.dartcastings.co.uk/mjt.php#CarriageComponents-Roofs&Fittings for £2 each.

 

  but I don't see any available on Roxey web site.

 

The ones on Comet are priced £3.60.  I am not quite sure what is going on here, as the 285mm width size is indeed what you need and the MJT one is 'discontinued'.  I may ring Dart Castings for advice.  

My approach to this was to use an Exacto sawblade to slice the roof off above the cantrail. The saw thickness is just about right to remove the "upright" portion of the roof profile and the cantrail provides an easy "rest" for the saw to sit on as it cuts into the roof. The cuts on each side continue in to meet in the middle of the inner baulkhead. I then just glue the roof straight back on. It does not matter if the cut has not been kept dead level as the same error will exist on both sides of the cut and will disappear when the roof is replaced. The coach ends are then narrowed to fit between the sides, the top reprofiled to fit under the new roof profile and the bottoms trimmed to get the hight right.

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Nigel,

 

You may consider using a fine bladed hand fret saw which I've used successfully in cut n shut work on coach, wagon bodies and roofs as well as loco bodies. I've found they leave a finer cut when used carefully.

Over and above that I'm finding your work most enjoyable :)

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By way of illustrating my last post I was inspired by one of Mikkels projects in which he produced a V5 GWR PBV using some old Tri-ang coaches.

By using a hand fret saw slowly and carefully down the side of the guards duckets I managed to produce a virtually seamless joint between the two halves, even when partially sprayed the seam is not really seen.

Ok, it's an ongoing project currently and I will strip and repaint the cream panels as I'm not satisfied with them, but overall I've found the use of the fret saw to be a good way to remove far less plastic during this process.

See what you think carp or otherwise? : ))

 

post-20303-0-58798700-1479832994_thumb.jpeg

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Or a flat ended cross country H26 ?

(Please excuse the fact that I have not renumbered any of the Restaurants )20160801_142103_zps94xoys0i.jpg

Lofty, I think this is an H25, lot 1330.  Did it involve just snipping off the bow-end, or is there more to it?  I might be tempted on mine if that is all that needs doing.  Incidentally, Michael Harris has these in the index as 8ft wide but says they are 8 ft 6in wide in the text on page 77 so the index has a typo, clearly.

Edited by HowardGWR
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By way of illustrating my last post I was inspired by one of Mikkels projects in which he produced a V5 GWR PBV using some old Tri-ang coaches.

By using a hand fret saw slowly and carefully down the side of the guards duckets I managed to produce a virtually seamless joint between the two halves, even when partially sprayed the seam is not really seen.

Ok, it's an ongoing project currently and I will strip and repaint the cream panels as I'm not satisfied with them, but overall I've found the use of the fret saw to be a good way to remove far less plastic during this process.

See what you think carp or otherwise? : ))

 

attachicon.gifimage.jpeg

Very nice indeed bgman.  Introducing GW-speak to this thread, one does not apparently refer to  projections as 'duckets'.   I got this from David Geen and Barry Scott and you don't argue with them.    :no:

Edited by HowardGWR
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Lofty, I think this is an H25, lot 1330. Did it involve just snipping off the bow-end, or is there more to it? I might be tempted on mine if that is all that needs doing. Incidentally, Michael Harris has these in the index as 8ft wide but says they are 8 ft 6in wide in the text on page 77 so the index has a typo, clearly.

I filled in 1/2 of one of the kitchen windows with plasticard.

The ends i thought I would be clever and just get some spare Hornby LMS flat ends, good plan except the curved profile for the roof is totally out.

So I glued the ends on and the filled the rest up to the roof line.

When dry, I carefully sanded to shape and painted the roof.

I believe the width my be slightly out but who has their micrometer handy when they are trundling round a layout ?

If you want to get really critical the door windows on (all) the Colletts are the wrong size and shape as well.

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