Finished my Baseboard - Now What?

[Sir TophamHatt]

So, I've built my baseboard using some timber for the legs, 12mm plyboard for the top.  It's not the best construction but pretty okay for a first time.  It'll be a permenant fixture, so not moving anywhere.

 

However, what is the next step?

 

Modelling Base: Do people still use corkboard as a topper to start modelling on?  Where is best to get this from?  Is there anything else I should get now?

I saw online that someone glued or varnished the top layer to "seal" it.  Then, while still wet, they chucked loads of grass on.  Is this still recommended, or should I just paint the whole corkboard green?

 

Power: How many power sockets should I look at having?  The only experience I have had is using one, on a non-DCC layout, about 15 years ago.  There's no sockets particularly close by.

Out of interest, if I have powered points, how are these connected to work?

 

DCC: I plan to make it DCC in the very near future.  Are there any special considerations I need?

 

I drawn out a plan of track and what I want.  As it's my first model then I'm not too fussed on using computers to model it and this and that, I'll just join track together and chop and change until it fits.  It's a basic oval, but bigger and longer (size is about 230cm x 130cm).

I'm hoping to have a hill on one side, with a tunnel underneath.

I was going to have two stations, but figured it simply won't work having two.  I may change it later on and have a smaller station elsewhere.

 

Thanks for advice

[Kris]

The next stage for me would be to paint the board, white on the underside (makes it easier to see the wiring etc) and a darker colour on the top. 

[rob D2]

Cork tiles are quite hard to find now, out of the big DIY chains here in swindonia only wickes stock them. There was some ethical issue with cork according to B&Q .

 

I use them primarily to give me something to run my point control rods through , they don't seem to do much else

[Miss Prism]

http://www.charlescantrill.com/shop/model-railway/

 

(they also do the thin stuff, previously 1/32", but they now call it cork wallpaper)

[halsey]

Cork easily available in sheets/rolls on ebay.

 

DEFINATELY paint before you do anything else - I had loads of help starting up but I can't find any reference on my topics early posts to early painting - I have just spent a pretty painful week painting after the event and whilst very satisfying it would have been so much easier if done first.

 

Have fun

[The Johnster]

You'll find plenty of advice, some of it conflicting.  Chose a method of proceeding that you are comfortable with (I don't know your skill level), and you must be pretty impatient to get something running, so discipline yourself.

 

The following advice is no more than my opinion, and may not be the best practice for you, but it works for me:-

 

Your next task, as Halsey has just pointed out, is to paint the baseboard surface a dull and dark base colour; any old sort of grey/brown/green will do, and matt emulsion is fine.  Slap it on, the finish is not important as it's all going to covered in track or scenery anyway, but it will prevent any gaps in the scenery showing bare baseboard though them.

 

Rtr locos are quite rigid in the vertical plane, so your track needs to be carefully laid to be as flat and smooth as possible (particularly over junctions if you are to achieve good running, which depends on the best possible current collection for the motor).  So does your baseboard, so check it over and make sure there are no dips or ridges, especially where the boards join.  The double jeopardy situation where you have to be super careful is where paintwork is laid across a baseboard join.  Baseboard legs on wooden floors are an issue in this respect; your railway needs to be solid and not shake around if you move around the room.

 

As far as the modelling base is concerned, I don't bother. Card or cork will give a little under the weight of the locos and affect running.  Foam track underlay looks dreadful and causes the same problem.  Use pva glue to fix the track directly to the baseboard surface, and secure it with pins while it is going off.  There is plenty of time while the glue is going off to adjust and wiggle things about.  Do all the track on the plan and any last minute added sidings in one session.  Next job is wiring, and I know next to nothing about DCC so I can' help much here, except to say that whatever wiring there is must be soldered to the track, the holes drilled for the droppers, and everything exhaustively tested by running trains on it in every configuration that you will be using on the finished layout.  This is why you should do all the tracklaying at the same time, and then all the wiring at the same time.  I do the signals at this point as well, so that they are firmly fixed to the baseboard and not just stuck on the scenery.

 

Now you are ready for the fun stuff, painting and ballasting track and doing the basic scenery.  Don't try and do it on the wet glue; sprinkle it on and spray it with dilute pva with a drop of washing up liquid in it, and then clean the rail surfaces.  Ballast around the track and between the sleepers, not under it.  As you can see, I am a believer in building from the baseboard level up, rather than from end to end, because that ensures that everything is done at the same time with the same materials, and will have a uniform overall look and texture, so that it doesn't look as though bits have been added on willy nilly.  Do a complete test run with all your stock at each stage.

 

You are now ready to put the basic structures on, platforms, goods sheds, and so on.  

 

So far as power goes, a 4-way extension will probably do it.  You need a socket for the railway itself, assuming all controllers, point and signal motors, turntables etc are run from the same 12v DC power supply on the railway, a socket for modelling tools, minidrill, soldering iron, and so on, and a socket for lighting; the other one will come in handy for anything we haven't thought about yet.

 

Whether you proceed as above or not, take your time, do things in a logical progressive sequence, set yourself tasks or projects that are achievable in one session (tonight, I are mostly laying track...) or you'll tire yourself out and get frustrated.  Most of all, HAVE FUN!!!

 

Good luck.

Edited December 24, 2016 by The Johnster

[Guest 40-something]

So, I've built my baseboard using some timber for the legs, 12mm plyboard for the top.  It's not the best construction but pretty okay for a first time.  It'll be a permenant fixture, so not moving anywhere.

 

However, what is the next step?

 

Modelling Base: Do people still use corkboard as a topper to start modelling on?  Where is best to get this from?  Is there anything else I should get now?

I saw online that someone glued or varnished the top layer to "seal" it.  Then, while still wet, they chucked loads of grass on.  Is this still recommended, or should I just paint the whole corkboard green?

 

Power: How many power sockets should I look at having?  The only experience I have had is using one, on a non-DCC layout, about 15 years ago.  There's no sockets particularly close by.

Out of interest, if I have powered points, how are these connected to work?

 

DCC: I plan to make it DCC in the very near future.  Are there any special considerations I need?

 

I drawn out a plan of track and what I want.  As it's my first model then I'm not too fussed on using computers to model it and this and that, I'll just join track together and chop and change until it fits.  It's a basic oval, but bigger and longer (size is about 230cm x 130cm).

I'm hoping to have a hill on one side, with a tunnel underneath.

I was going to have two stations, but figured it simply won't work having two.  I may change it later on and have a smaller station elsewhere.

 

Thanks for advice

You can use cork, foam track base or foamboard as a track bed, but I find there isnt really a need.   Unless you are using manual point control, then its handy to be able to recess the rodding into the base and cover it later.  If the board is to be permanent then there is no point in painting the board as it'll get covered by ballast, scenery etc etc.

 

Make sure the track is laid is completely flat, this stage is critical for your enjoyment later on.  Hold in place with either glue, pins or both.  I use doublesided tape and pins, the ballast when set holds it all in place (lay the ballast dry, spray with water then apply PVA diluted 50/50 with water and a drop of washing up liquid).   Solder all electrical connections to the rails before ballasting, and follow a colour scheme, for instance red to outside rail, black to inside rail.

 

The difference between DC and DCC is that you dont need any isolating switches, if you can, you are as well to wire the layout for DCC from the outset - do this by soldering power droppers to every piece of track, dont rely on fishplates for long term conduction of electricity (good practice on DC layouts too!)

 

Points can be powered by a few methods these days, traditional solenoids such as those from Peco, these need a 16v supply and a passing contact/push button switch for each direction. More and more people are using servos now, and there are many different varieties out there such as Cobalt, Tortoise etc etc.  I personally use Megapoints..  Spend a bit of time on google to decide what works best for you, but do it before laying any track.

 

Power sockets, you'll need one for your DC or DCC controller, one for a power supply for point motors (if the controllers doesnt have separate outputs), one for a a power tool/soldering iron, and a spare, so a 4 way socket as mentioned before is perfect.

 

The most important thing is to have fun and take your time.  If frustrated at something, walk away, if stuck, post a question on RMWeb.  If you dont know the answer then it wont be a daft question.

Edited December 24, 2016 by 40-something

[John_Miles]

I agree with the Johnster. Cork etc has little effect in terms of sound deadening, if you suffer from a drumming noise when running trains, some strategically placed blocks of 2 x 1 glued to the underside of the baseboard will nicely affect the acoustic properties.

 

My thinking about when you have finished the baseboard is that now the interesting work starts. You inevitably won't get it right first time but getting some track down and getting things running is what it is all about and then comes the boring bits, track painting and ballasting before things get interesting and you start on scenery.

[halsey]

I agree with the Johnster. Cork etc has little effect in terms of sound deadening, if you suffer from a drumming noise when running trains, some strategically placed blocks of 2 x 1 glued to the underside of the baseboard will nicely affect the acoustic properties.

 

My thinking about when you have finished the baseboard is that now the interesting work starts. You inevitably won't get it right first time but getting some track down and getting things running is what it is all about and then comes the boring bits, track painting and ballasting before things get interesting and you start on scenery.

 

Does gluing 2*1 underneath really work as my 12mm plywood baseboards do echo - track is on 2mm cork and pinned - I don't want to glue - what are the tips for placement 

[John_Miles]

Does gluing 2*1 underneath really work as my 12mm plywood baseboards do echo - track is on 2mm cork and pinned - I don't want to glue - what are the tips for placement 

Simply stated yes. If you think of musical instruments like a violin, it uses a thin box to amplify the sound produced by the vibration of the strings. Gluing a bit of mass to your Stradivarius will substantially change its ability to vibrate.

[brossard]

I've built my boards and painted the underside white, so far - check.

 

My plan for roadbed is to use the foam sheet/strip from C&L/Woodland Scenics.  I was also put onto something called Tacky Glue ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Adhesives-Glue/Aleenes-Premium-Glue-Original-Tacky-Craft-8oz/B00178KLEY )  that should be available in craft stores (got mine in the craft section of Walmart).  It comes out white and dries to a rubbery consistency.  I reckon using these two products should deaden the drumming - we'll see.

 

John

[mkrob]

I'm still designing my layout after returning to the hobby 4 year ago.  I know you said you weren't fussed about designing your layout  on computer but it may save a lot hassle in the long run. I tried a couple  of computer layout design programs & found them a pain in the a** until I tried SCARM (SIMPLE COMPUTER AIDED RAILWAY MODELLER) which with a bit of perseverance found it very good & simple to use. It even can give you a parts list of track needed from a variety of manufacturers.

Here's an example of one of my designs,which I keep changing. 

   http://www.scarm.info/index.php

[The Johnster]

In 50 years of using flexible track, I have never been able to lay it absolutely and exactly according to The Plan.  If you are using setrack, with it's fixed geometry, then this is a much easier proposition, and for anyone having to lay sharp curves that need to maintain a fixed radius, by which I mean anything less than about a metre radius, I would recommend using setrack.

 

My current blt is in flexi, and I have not bothered this time to make an exact plan.  I did have a general sketch for guidance, and simply started laying at one end and kept going til I'd reached the other, allowing the track to follow it's own natural curvature and not forcing it anywhere it didn't already want to go; the result, IMHO, is a natural feel and a gentle curve suitable for a layout where the assumed geography is that of a railway hugging the contour of a hillside and confined by the width implied by that. 

 

Having had a bit of a hiatus with scale couplings which I find I am too old, feeble, shortsighted and wobbly handed to cope with any more, I have reverted to tension locks, which has freed me to install an extension to the fiddle yard involving a vicious 3rd radius fixed setrack curve that I would find unacceptable in the visible part of the layount.  I have no regrets about laying the visible part of the layout in flexi with minimum 26" radius turnouts; I have limited space but not that limited...

 

I'm looking at mkrob's plan, which I am assuming uses setrack.  Good plan, mk, probably not realistically achievable in that space with anything but setrack, but I think the point I'm trying to get over to the OP is that, IMHO, a general idea of what you want your layout to look like, in the form of a generalised sketch or rough draft, is probably more important and more likely to provide a successful railway than overzealous adherance to a Master Plan in any medium but the absolute predictability and precision of setrack.

 

Computer planning is of course a valuable tool, and a lot of fun in it's own right, but my view is that individual creativity is best served, if space is available, by flexi track and a more generalised approach...

Edited January 9, 2017 by The Johnster

[yelrow]

Anotheruser, hi, my advice would be  do Not fix down any track for first few weeks. You will look to make changes, we all do, and the last thing you want to do is to have to prise up pins etc. I screw down my point motors, and point itself, so it changes ok, but you will  be surprised how many little changes you make before totally happy. I never make a plan, just work out how many loops i can get on baseboard, and then lay track, from the middle out. I have 7 running loops, all connected via points. john

[RedFlag]

The next stage for me would be to paint the board, white on the underside (makes it easier to see the wiring etc) and a darker colour on the top. 

When you get told something like this it just seems so obvious. The painting white underneath is not something I had even considered but it makes total sense. Thanks.

Edited August 20, 2018 by RedFlag

[DCB]

With 12 mm ply (Never again) indoors I would lay the track, run trains for a bit with temporary wiring and when I was happy cut away the surplus board with no tracks on. This will allow scenery below track level and reduce the noise considerably.  12mm is ok for track bases and standing on but its a horrible material for a baseboard.  Ours is de laminating and warping as its outside in the "rabbit hutch" enclosure over the outside terminus.

[ianLMS]

So, I've built my baseboard using some timber for the legs, 12mm plyboard for the top.  It's not the best construction but pretty okay for a first time.  It'll be a permenant fixture, so not moving anywhere.

 

However, what is the next step?

 

Modelling Base: Do people still use corkboard as a topper to start modelling on?  Where is best to get this from?  Is there anything else I should get now?

I saw online that someone glued or varnished the top layer to "seal" it.  Then, while still wet, they chucked loads of grass on.  Is this still recommended, or should I just paint the whole corkboard green?

 

Power: How many power sockets should I look at having?  The only experience I have had is using one, on a non-DCC layout, about 15 years ago.  There's no sockets particularly close by.

Out of interest, if I have powered points, how are these connected to work?

 

DCC: I plan to make it DCC in the very near future.  Are there any special considerations I need?

 

I drawn out a plan of track and what I want.  As it's my first model then I'm not too fussed on using computers to model it and this and that, I'll just join track together and chop and change until it fits.  It's a basic oval, but bigger and longer (size is about 230cm x 130cm).

I'm hoping to have a hill on one side, with a tunnel underneath.

I was going to have two stations, but figured it simply won't work having two.  I may change it later on and have a smaller station elsewhere.

 

Thanks for advice

 

As previous - paint the board. I used cheapo paints from The Works/Wilko's etc. Lots of greens/browns/black to choose from etc and can be watered down to spread it further.

 

Modelling Base - If you are modelling a small harbour/goods yard/station area, not much need for cork to create the ballast shoulder, so straight on the board would be fine. If mainline/open area, then cork sheet is available from Ebay, Gaugemaster and other places.  I previously used an old sheet of lino (vinyl flooring) which also worked and had a cushioning affect. Sound deadening properties peel off as soon as you glue the ballast. Some folks let their track float and dont fix it at all, especially if there areent too many curves to worry about. 

 

Power - I have 2 sets of 4-way sockets under the layout and 1 set under the workbench, running off three seperate mains sockets. The one for my DCC controller, DCC Accessory controllers, layout lighting and CCTV runs off a switched 4-way with fused circuit protection. The rest are plain 4-ways and handy for lamps under the layout when wiring, drills, soldering iron, vacuum cleaner etc. If you only have one main socket, I hear the recommendation is that you only have one extension cable and don't daisy chain them, nor use those 2 or 3-way blocks. Proably due to fire risks/overheating/over-loading etc.

 

DCC - Lots of drops from the track to the main power running around the layout (BUS). See Brain Lamberts webpage for guidance.

 

Enjoy!!!!

 

ian

[The Johnster]

You'll find plenty of advice, some of it conflicting.  Chose a method of proceeding that you are comfortable with (I don't know your skill level), and you must be pretty impatient to get something running, so discipline yourself.

 

The following advice is no more than my opinion, and may not be the best practice for you, but it works for me:-

 

Your next task, as Halsey has just pointed out, is to paint the baseboard surface a dull and dark base colour; any old sort of grey/brown/green will do, and matt emulsion is fine.  Slap it on, the finish is not important as it's all going to covered in track or scenery anyway, but it will prevent any gaps in the scenery showing bare baseboard though them.

 

Rtr locos are quite rigid in the vertical plane, so your track needs to be carefully laid to be as flat and smooth as possible (particularly over junctions if you are to achieve good running, which depends on the best possible current collection for the motor).  So does your baseboard, so check it over and make sure there are no dips or ridges, especially where the boards join.  The double jeopardy situation where you have to be super careful is where paintwork is laid across a baseboard join.  Baseboard legs on wooden floors are an issue in this respect; your railway needs to be solid and not shake around if you move around the room.

 

As far as the modelling base is concerned, I don't bother. Card or cork will give a little under the weight of the locos and affect running.  Foam track underlay looks dreadful and causes the same problem.  Use pva glue to fix the track directly to the baseboard surface, and secure it with pins while it is going off.  There is plenty of time while the glue is going off to adjust and wiggle things about.  Do all the track on the plan and any last minute added sidings in one session.  Next job is wiring, and I know next to nothing about DCC so I can' help much here, except to say that whatever wiring there is must be soldered to the track, the holes drilled for the droppers, and everything exhaustively tested by running trains on it in every configuration that you will be using on the finished layout.  This is why you should do all the tracklaying at the same time, and then all the wiring at the same time.  I do the signals at this point as well, so that they are firmly fixed to the baseboard and not just stuck on the scenery.

 

Now you are ready for the fun stuff, painting and ballasting track and doing the basic scenery.  Don't try and do it on the wet glue; sprinkle it on and spray it with dilute pva with a drop of washing up liquid in it, and then clean the rail surfaces.  Ballast around the track and between the sleepers, not under it.  As you can see, I am a believer in building from the baseboard level up, rather than from end to end, because that ensures that everything is done at the same time with the same materials, and will have a uniform overall look and texture, so that it doesn't look as though bits have been added on willy nilly.  Do a complete test run with all your stock at each stage.

 

You are now ready to put the basic structures on, platforms, goods sheds, and so on.  

 

So far as power goes, a 4-way extension will probably do it.  You need a socket for the railway itself, assuming all controllers, point and signal motors, turntables etc are run from the same 12v DC power supply on the railway, a socket for modelling tools, minidrill, soldering iron, and so on, and a socket for lighting; the other one will come in handy for anything we haven't thought about yet.

 

Whether you proceed as above or not, take your time, do things in a logical progressive sequence, set yourself tasks or projects that are achievable in one session (tonight, I are mostly laying track...) or you'll tire yourself out and get frustrated.  Most of all, HAVE FUN!!!

 

Good luck.

 

To update this a bit, I have not found one 4-way extension anything like sufficient.  I now have 3, powering the layout, the lighting which is a lot more complex and involved now than when I wrote the above, the workbench light, magnifying glass light, minidrill, wheel cleaner, and a spare socket at the workbench for the soldering iron when I use it, which is not often, perhaps just as well for the general well being of my modelling...

[Sir TophamHatt]

I'd just like to point out the date of the original post

 

However, despite some having large power availability, mine runs off a two-way extension. One plug for the controller, one for the accessory controller/bus wires.

But then I don't have lamps or houses that light up or anything like that at the moment.

[ianLMS]

oops - should have spotted that one!!!! Still, its always good to breathe life into an old post if its interesting and helps others!

[ISW]

As previous - paint the board. I used cheapo paints from The Works/Wilko's etc. Lots of greens/browns/black to choose from etc and can be watered down to spread it further.

 

Modelling Base - If you are modelling a small harbour/goods yard/station area, not much need for cork to create the ballast shoulder, so straight on the board would be fine. If mainline/open area, then cork sheet is available from Ebay, Gaugemaster and other places.  I previously used an old sheet of lino (vinyl flooring) which also worked and had a cushioning affect. Sound deadening properties peel off as soon as you glue the ballast. Some folks let their track float and dont fix it at all, especially if there areent too many curves to worry about. 

 

 

Enjoy!!!!

 

ian

I'm using the same 12mm plywood for baseboards, but since it's indoors it should not be affected (delamination) by moisture. I too was going to paint the upper surface, probably grey. Might not bother painting the underside though.

 

However, I plan to use 3mm 'vitrex' underlay (for wood and laminate flooring) from Homebase instead of cork. Is it best to paint the plywood and then glue the underlay to the paint, or glue the underlay to the plywood and only paint the exposed areas?

 

Does anyone have any experience with 3mm foam underlay?