Shez's workbench

[nigelb]

I used Solder Paste and a resistance soldering iron  to  attach the panels to  the NBR 6 wheel coach, it worked fine

[Shez]

Thanks for the comments on soldering - I am always up for trying new stuff to see if it makes the job any easier!

 

In the meantime here are the pictures of the completed cab sides.

 

 

One aspect of the kit I have noticed is that the holes as drilled for the handrails are far too big for the 0.7mm wire they are meant to take. In looking to get round this I saw a possible opportunity. The close up photographs of the Caley locos  have seem to show a collar round the handrail. I wondered if this could both solve the problem and represent the prototype with more accuracy. I therefore widened the hole using a small broach and then soldered in a piece of brass tube so that it protruded slightly. The back of the tube was then cut with a piercing saw. I then inserted the handrail in the tube and soldered it from the back. The whole thing was then filed down from the back. I am really pleased with the result and might use the same technique on other models.

 

 

The detail is quite small so the photograph might not show it up. Is this an indicator of increased modelling skill, or an indicator that I should get out more? !

 

So on to curving those splasher tops.....

[Rob Pulham]

Definitely an indication of increasing skills Mark.

 

Sadly many kits, especially older hand drawn examples seem to have a lot of holes over etched and need something to improve them. You method is one that I haven't tried but I will save it for later use.

[Shez]

I think I said something on an earlier post about things now looking quite straightforward on the Pickersgill...but then I also said before christmas that HTFC would stay up!  .... I should know not to say such daft things!!

 

The splashers proved to be a challenge and took some time to build up - it was awkward to get the iron in, and much of the soldering had to be done from the outside rather than inside which I prefer.

 

However, it was when I came to fit the boiler I realised there were some major issues. Two etched lines on the footplate indicate where the cab front and the boiler front should be located. However the boiler appeared to be about 1mm short! Thinking back now I should have soldered an extension to the boiler, but hindsight is a great thing. However I decided to press ahead and accept that the boiler would be set a little too far back. This however created two further issues - firstly the firebox sides now had a gap, by the rear splasher and secondly an attempted test  test run showed there were issues with clearances. I therefore had to undertake some fairly drastic metal removal from the underside of the boiler to accommodate the driving wheels. I then adopted to use some scrap nickle silver etch to make some new firebox sides. This will entail a bit of filler before painting to get the curve where it meets the boiler correct. However, it solved the problems and the loco ran well on the next test.

 

I then went on to fit the cab sides, roof and other details and the front frames. All required considerable filing to get them to fit! The cab roof in particular was considerably wider than needed. The boiler had no holes drilled for handrails etc, so this was now undertaken - a task that was new to me from previous kits. I also found from looking at photographs that some details didn't seem to be included in the kit and were not mentioned on the instructions - so several raids on the scrapbox were required. 

 

 

However, I am in no way despondent after theses tribulations, as she is slowly emerging as a handsome looking loco. She now has an identity, CR No 86. One of the Class 72,  1921 Armstrong Whitworth batch, which were painted a darker blue than the others. There is a nice picture of her on page 42 of Jim McIntosh's book. Caledonian Railway Livery.  Given the limitations of the instructions, this will be my main guide for the remaining detailing. The experience of doing the NBR coaches has been really valuable in this build. Perhaps I have been a bit spoiled with the quality of the previous kits I have built, but the gradual problem solving  with the coaches has encouraged me not to panic and to get on with it. Its been challenging, but I am learning a lot. Strange thing is that having looked at previous reviews of the kit, there seems to be no mention of any problems - maybe I have got some thing fundamentally wrong somewhere, but apart from the position of the boiler everything else checks out with the drawings. I did notice that Alba Models who now have the kit ( its provenance goes back further) have now withdrawn it to re do the etches. 

 

So a good clean up of some messy soldering, and on with the detailing. 

[Shez]

Detailing continues, and I have also added the tender pickups which has much improved running. 

 

 

On this side of the loco the pipework along the boiler and the pipework along the footplate was added, using some split pins to represent the fastenings. I also used solder to attach the dome, chimney and safety valve rather than using glue. Another technique I have tried for the first time on this model. You can clearly see the rebuilt firebox in this picture.

 

 

On the other side the main job was the Westinghouse pump and its associated pipework. For this I relied on photographs, and I have still some work to do here. I used inverted handrail knobs and small pieces of tube soldered on to represent the various joints and valves. I have also completed some of the lubricators. There was no sign of the etches for the two small steps on the front of the smokebox (refered to mistakenly as sandbox in the instructions!) I therefore made these out of a couple of spare lamp iron etches. I mentioned the tool that I got for cutting the pieces of tube accurately - picture below - I would really recommend one of these - made by Expo - its become one of my favourite pieces of kit.

 

 

There is still some body detail to add, the backhead and the cab fittings. Then the final job will be the mechanical lubricator. it will be then a case of putting the loco to one side for a bit until the weather improves for painting. This has been a somewhat longer excursion to the west coast than I had anticipated, and I am itching to get back East again!

[Shez]

I have now reached the stage where the Pickersgill is on her running tests and then its a case of putting her to one side to wait for an opportunity for painting - appropriate weather seems a long way away here in the south Pennines.

 

The first remaining job was the cab - this was once again lacking any instructions apart form a very vague sketch. I used a mixture of photographs and guesswork in the end. There were some very nice castings - but the holes in the backhead didn't seem to really correspond to the drawing. There are a few small details to add after painting as there are on the loco generally.

 

 

Next I turned my attention to the mechanical lubricator on the right hand front driver. I have to thank Sandy here for a picture he sent me so I could get an idea of how the set up worked on his model. I also found instructions for a lubricator in a Jim McGeowan J35 kit, and used this as a basis on which to work. I made use of 16BA bolts to keep the moving parts together. At first there was some binding, but after bending the crank slightly the whole thing works smoothly, and looks effective as the loco moves. At present its not completely secured so it can be removed easily while testing. One problem with the loco is that it does not dismantle easily. 

 

 

The loco has been given some initial test at home, and my plan is to take it down to Wakefiled on Friday to give it a run on the test track. Although I have added some weight I think more will be needed to improve running. For the momemt I have removed the brake gear to help with adjustments. 

 

 

So she is pretty much finished. I would like to thank everyone on here who has responded to my posts and questions, because without you lot I think I might have given up on her. As it is she has built into a handsome loco. Despite the shortcomings of the kit, and the instructions, I would still recommend it to anyone who likes Scottish locos, and experienced modellers will probably find it straightforward enough - not one for a first timer though!  She wont probably figure again until after a trip to the Paintshop. As I said on the last post - its time to go back East. The NBR beckons.

Edited March 7, 2018 by Shez

[Rob Pulham]

Looking good Mark, 

 

Do you plan on a trip to Leigh show this year? if you do we may get to catch up.

[Shez]

Thanks very much Rob,

 

Help and encouragement is much appreciated. 

 

Would hope to get to Leigh, but most probably in morning as HTFC game on that day. Premier League is too stressful - league 2 was much easier!

 

Would be good to catch up.

[Rob Pulham]

Hi Mark,

 

I will contact you nearer the time to firm things up.

[Shez]

Replaced the brake gear this morning, did some fettling of the front bogie, and added a little more weight. Running seems OK on my short test track. Will see how she performs tomorrow on those reverse curves at Wakefield!  Unusually for a 4-4-0 the motor is on the front driver. (recommended in the instructions due to clearance problems.) Does that mean I should compensate with extra ballast over the rear driver? The rear drivers are sprung.

 

Some of the lads at the club are encouraging me to have a go with DCC - so I might look to add a chip as an experiment. 

[sir douglas]

you dont have to if you dont want to, i'm not likely to ever go dcc

[Shez]

Do not worry Sir Douglas - the digital age is not going to reach Ayemouth!

 

Just open minded about it - want to see if the extra expense improves performance in any way - this loco is a good "one off" to try it.

[jamie92208]

Do not worry Sir Douglas - the digital age is not going to reach Ayemouth!

 

Just open minded about it - want to see if the extra expense improves performance in any way - this loco is a good "one off" to try it.

I am firmly I the analogue camp as you know but am seriously considering fitting one of my 0-6-0T's with DCC just for shunting the coal yard with a changeover switch to analogue power for when a trip freight needs to bring loaded wagons in. Working Bill Bishops Hochstadt gave me the idea.

 

Jamie

[jazz]

Hi.  I too am in the analogue camp. I did go all digital five years ago and did not like it at all. Very tedious having to punch in numbers for every movement.

 

The only nice thing was the sound effects.  A new layout was build now all analogue again and much better running experiences. Also flicking switches and for routes, signals, turnouts etc etc gives a sense of being a signalman as well as a driver.

[Shez]

Interesting point that Jazz. At Wakefield show I got to do an hours or so stand in operation on a couple of layouts. One was a layout with modern diesels and the other was "Deffors" by Sir Douglas of this parish. Somehow the DCC controller seemed right for the diesel layout,  but when it came to the steam age Deffors I thoroughly enjoyed working the manual points, and it had that feeling reflecting the manual control of railways of that period. Switches and levers seemed appropriate somehow. Interested that you say you have had better running from analogue. That would always be my number one priority whatever system.

 

Sound is nice but expensive! Even there I find it more effective with diesels. Saw a lovely layout at one exhibition with period steam locos with sound, - but the sounds didn't fit with the movements of the coupling rods!

[sir douglas]

thats the main issues for me with some dcc is that youve got to choose the right sounds and then calibrate it to fit the model speed, and there is only a few default choices to make in the chip unless you went out and recorded them yourself which some people do, which gives another problem if your loco isnt an option in the chip and there isnt the option of recording it because the prototype isnt running or doesnt exist anymore so compromises have to made

[jazz]

It was interesting synchronising the beat to the rods and but great when it was done correctly.  The sounds on my loco stock, all steam, were not a problem as they were available from Olivias Trains for all the models I was running. They had a very impressive growing list when I was involved in DCC. 

Edited March 18, 2018 by jazz

[Shez]

With the Pickersgill waiting for the paintshop its time for a new project.....

 

NBR Holmes Class L O-4-4T. (LNER G7)

 

As some of you will know if you have been following another thread I have been putting together a rake of NBR six wheel coaches, and its now time to add some appropriate motive power. A Holmes tank, reboilered by Reid - the model will represent No 91, an Edinburgh St Margarents Loco, the last of the class to be withdrawn, and one that kept the distinctive dome with the safety valves right up to the end. 

 

The kit is produced by Peter Mullen at 62C models, and while I have used many of his fittings on my other NBR locos this is the first time I have built one of his kits. You can check out a picture of a completed kit on Peters website.

 

 

The first impression on opening the box is the quality of the contents. The body is in brass and the chassis is in nickle silver, and many of the fittings are in lost wax, rather than white metal. There are brass turned NBR pattern sprung buffers, and even cab glazing. Peter can also supply motors, and Slaters wheels to make the kit a complete package. Alternative parts are provided for making any of the variants. A glance at Yeadons register will show there were variations in domes, safety valves, and steps.

 

The instruction are very comprehensive with clear explanations and diagrams, as well as detailed prototype information. While there are no photographs of the loco, Volume 36 of Yeadons Register, and Part 7 of Locomotives of the LNER will provide a range.

 

First job was blackening the wheels - today being the first opportunity for some time to do tasks that require the garden shed! I took the opportunity to blacken some of the components for the coaches as well. 

 

 

The next job will be the coupling rods. This is an immediate  departure from Peter's instructions but as I use a master chassis jig I always start with these. A visit north of the border to the caravan will keep me away from the workbench over Easter, but I am really looking forward to getting on with this build once we return.

[nigelb]

I am currently  making one of His G7  kits and  can confirm they are nice  and sensibly engineered  kits  I  am taking a long time to  build it as  its a bit of a learning curve whenever i  have a query  an email to Pete  gets a concise  explanation  very quickly

[Shez]

Progress on the G7 has been slow due to other commitments, but its now on the move again.

 

The coupling rods were formed in the usual way by laminating the parts together using wooden pegs and 188 solder. The etched holes fit almost straight away on the dummy axles of the master chassis jig without very little work to open them out. This is in contrast to some of the previous kits I have built. Once happy with these I cut out the frames and other parts to make the basic chassis. The four coupled wheels are on a short chassis, while the trailing bogie is on a sub frame that attaches to the rear of the body. The same approach as the Caley 4-4-0 I built previously, but in reverse.  In contrast to the coupling rods, the etched holes in the chassis for the bearings and for plunger pick ups needed a considerable amount of work with reamer and broaches to open them out to the required size. 

 

 

In accordance a note included in the kit the frames were trimmed by 0.75 mill at the front. I would assume that this small error in etching will be rectified in future kits. 

 

I next attached the fire box sides. I did take some time to work out how these are bent and folded, using the half etched lines on each side. A photograph that Peter sent with the instructions helped. The frames and spacers were then put together using the master chassis as shown in the photograph. I inserted the bearings and then adding the wheels gave it a quick check on the test track. The wheels and rods turned fine with no obvious binding, although the bearings are not yet soldered in. 

Despite the success with springing on the last loco, I have returned to a rigid chassis this time. This follows some e mail consultation with Peter, the kits designer.  The clearances on this loco are very tight, so I am keeping it simple. The kit includes alternative frames for a sprung chassis, and spacers for scale 7. I also have a kit on the "to build" pile for this locos close relative the G8, and may use a sprung chassis on that loco by way of comparison. Given the clearances, the jury is still out on pick ups. The notches cut in the top of the frame are not specified in the instructions, and have been added by me should I use wipers. 

 

.

 

Recently, the Pickersgill had another visit to the paintshop and is now primed, so she is nearing completion. I have also done a few running tests. The tender pick ups are now connected, and adjustment to the springing on the bogie has improved running. The mechanical lubricating gear, which gave me so many headaches is now working fine. Once again, so much turns out to be easier than you think when you just get on with it.

 

 

So far - so good. Lets get those bearings in!

[Shez]

Further progress today.

 

The bearings were soldered in place. The ones supplied are brass, and have quite a wide shoulder. On testing the chassis there was very little side play, and I don't feel there will be much need to add washers. I then added some other details - the front guard irons, and the lever on the side of the ashpan. The chassis is moving well, and I don't anticipate much more in the way of adjustment. The kit feels accurate and well engineered.

 

 

As I explained in the previous post, the rear bogie is attached by a separate sub frame. This was put together next, and put to one side as suggested in the instructions. Once again minimal fettling of the parts was needed, everything going together easily.

 

 

I was on a roll now, so it was on with the bogie. This went together in a conventional manner. Again, the large bearings took quite a bit of heat to get them soldered!  The design allows some movement, by 8BA nuts and bolts which are hidden behind the compensation beam. The instructions are very clear on how to fit these, allowing  for movement while making a solid unit, taking the builder through  through the process step by step. The nuts that take the bolts were soldered to the box on which the bogie pivots by putting a little oil on the threads to stop them soldering up. The bolts were then removed and reinserted through the bogie sides allowing a little play before soldering at the rear. The bogie runs freely, and there is nice external detail on the compensation beams. 

 

 

So far I am thoroughly enjoying this build, especially after the trials and tribulations of the Pickersgill!  Perhaps the railway gods of the east are smiling on me for returning having strayed west for so long.

[nigelb]

have you decided on pickups  yet  o  went for the slaters plunger  type  and they fit very  nocely with a lil dab of  cyano  to hold them in place 

[Shez]

Still debating pick ups - felt that the gap between the wheel and chassis was a bit tight - so might go for wipers,  Might give both a try and see which works best.

 

Did any of you eagle eyed experts out there notice I had soldered on the front spacer the wrong way round?  - became obvious when I tried the footplate and the holes didn't match. Fortunately able to do some late night  de soldering  and turn it without it affecting the running of the chassis.  Serves me right for adopting a "this is all going so well " attitude!

[Shez]

Its been a long time! The summer just went by with things other than building models. Once I got started again, I have not really had computer access to post, as my son is temporarily living at home, and needs the computer for work! However I did get some pictures today, so here is an update on the G7.

 

 

As you can see form the picture the main chassis is completed painted and tested. I went for plungers in the end, as it seemed simplest given the tight clearances. The chassis runs fine, but because the bogie fits on to separate frames under the footplate I have not been able to test the whole thing yet. Still contemplating adding some bogie pick ups if there are no problems with shorting. The brake gear has been made removable so its easy to get at the insides to make adjustments. The frames are painted NBR Brown along with the wheels. From what I have read, and given the example I have from a NBR paint scheme from the Holmes era I am pretty much convinced NBR frames were the same colour as the loco. Not unusual with pre- grouping companies. 

 

So then it was on to the loco body. I have taken a different road from normal here. As I said previously I have not built one of Peters kits before so I am following the build sequence as suggested in his instructions. He starts with the cab and works forward. First job was to put together some sub assemblies. 

 

 

The beading around the cab was the first job. There are two options in the kit - either full pieces, or two half pieces to join. I took the plunge and went for the one piece option. You may notice there is a thin piece of brass across the door opening to prevent it going out of shape when working on it. This is then snipped away when the side is in place. It was then on to the cab rear. Again there are options with the windows - to represent the coal rails you can either use a prepared etch, or as I did take the more masochistic approach of fabricating each from wire. Window frames were added to the cab front. 

 

Then with the sub assemblies complete its time to solder them together.

 

 

The front sides, bunker end and cab rear were all then soldered together. An interesting idea is the inclusion of a full size cab back that can be tacked in place used to align the sides. Once completed it is removed and replaced with the half depth back that has already been prepared. A jig was also supplied for making the coal rails, showing what a lot of thought has gone into a well engineered kit.

 

So what next? I must say my only misgiving is that the footplate is very flimsy without the ends and valences. Need to decide whether to continue the build sequence or follow my more usual approach of creating a solid footplate first. I can see the point of the recommended approach as its easy to get there long tank locos out of alignment.

[jamie92208]

Its been a long time! The summer just went by with things other than building models. Once I got started again, I have not really had computer access to post, as my son is temporarily living at home, and needs the computer for work! However I did get some pictures today, so here is an update on the G7.

 

DSCN0090.JPG

 

As you can see form the picture the main chassis is completed painted and tested. I went for plungers in the end, as it seemed simplest given the tight clearances. The chassis runs fine, but because the bogie fits on to separate frames under the footplate I have not been able to test the whole thing yet. Still contemplating adding some bogie pick ups if there are no problems with shorting. The brake gear has been made removable so its easy to get at the insides to make adjustments. The frames are painted NBR Brown along with the wheels. From what I have read, and given the example I have from a NBR paint scheme from the Holmes era I am pretty much convinced NBR frames were the same colour as the loco. Not unusual with pre- grouping companies. 

 

So then it was on to the loco body. I have taken a different road from normal here. As I said previously I have not built one of Peters kits before so I am following the build sequence as suggested in his instructions. He starts with the cab and works forward. First job was to put together some sub assemblies. 

 

DSCN0088.JPG

 

The beading around the cab was the first job. There are two options in the kit - either full pieces, or two half pieces to join. I took the plunge and went for the one piece option. You may notice there is a thin piece of brass across the door opening to prevent it going out of shape when working on it. This is then snipped away when the side is in place. It was then on to the cab rear. Again there are options with the windows - to represent the coal rails you can either use a prepared etch, or as I did take the more masochistic approach of fabricating each from wire. Window frames were added to the cab front. 

 

Then with the sub assemblies complete its time to solder them together.

 

DSCN0095.JPG

 

The front sides, bunker end and cab rear were all then soldered together. An interesting idea is the inclusion of a full size cab back that can be tacked in place used to align the sides. Once completed it is removed and replaced with the half depth back that has already been prepared. A jig was also supplied for making the coal rails, showing what a lot of thought has gone into a well engineered kit.

 

So what next? I must say my only misgiving is that the footplate is very flimsy without the ends and valences. Need to decide whether to continue the build sequence or follow my more usual approach of creating a solid footplate first. I can see the point of the recommended approach as its easy to get there long tank locos out of alignment.

It's looking good Mark but I share your misgivings about the flexible footplate. There are some kits that have a jig built into the etch that is used for assembling the body then the jig is cut away but by then the body is rigid. I think the Slaters Compound uses that system. Perhaps some sort of fold up from spare etches would do the trick.

 

 

Jamie