Finney WC 34048

[david.hill64]

So following my resolution to see if it is possible for me to build more than one kit at a time I have started on another project: building the Martin Finney 7mm unrebuilt West Country. This is going to be 34048 with unrebuilt tender. Let's hope it is a Credit-on my building skills!

 

First as usual let's see what came in the nice Finney box.

 

A set of special Slaters wheels designed for this kit with eth smaller diameter axles and some excellent quality castings:

 

 

Three sets of etches, one of which has given me the heebie-jeebies! No prizes for guessing which one.

 

 

 

 

Following Dikitriki's lead I downloaded the latest instructions from the Finney 7 website and I have to say well done lads! If you have some spare time I've about 100 sets that need improving to this standard!

 

Construction of the compensated tender chassis was entirely without problems.

 

 

Wheels and axles temporarily fitted.

 

 

Now guess what Mr Stupid did next? The wheels are a press fit on the axles. I don't have a wheel press but no problem: I cut some small lengths of brass tube and put them over the extended axle ends and squeezed the assembly in a vice until the wheels were fully seated. I felt very pleased with myself until I realised that I had forgotten to insert the washers that reduce side play, fortunately only on the two compensated axles. I haven't pressed the third set on yet. I can either pack out the 'hornguides' or cut the washers, fit them and then solder the washers together so the cut outs are not aligned. With the force required to seat the wheels being what it was, I think that pulling the wheels off isn't going to happen. 

 

Anyway I am really looking forward to doing this and there are some great build threads already around so I won't go into much detail in this one unless I think there is an important point to make like: 'It would have been far easier to engage brain before assembling the wheelsets'.

 

 

[jamie92208]

I look forward to seeing this build progress.  I've just paid my deposit for a Princess/Coronation.

 

Jamie

[Sandy Harper]

It'll end in tears!!!!

 

Sandy 

[david.hill64]

It'll end in tears!!!!

 

Sandy 

Taking this advice from a wise sage to heart, I have done very little on this model recently. However, it is now number 1 priority and on the bench again. Reading this thread made me realise that I had totally forgotten about the side play issue, so I am going to have to decide what to do.

 

I did spend last night reforming the embossed rivets as the previous effort wasn't up to snuff.

[glo41f]

Have you tried cutting a quadrant out of the side play washers so that they slip over the axle and can be inserted behind the wheel?  It works (I have done the same) and the washers seem to stay in place with no problems.

 

Martin Long

[david.hill64]

Have you tried cutting a quadrant out of the side play washers so that they slip over the axle and can be inserted behind the wheel?  It works (I have done the same) and the washers seem to stay in place with no problems.

 

Martin Long

It's certainly an option! Thanks.

[markjj]

Stick it in the freezer for an hour or more and the axles may shrink enough to get them back off. It sounds silly but it works on drive shafts if the bearings are tight to get off.

[david.hill64]

Hmm. I just had 10 minutes at the bench last night: enough to show me that I had cured the side-play issue by using the same method as suggested by glo41f............There should be some real work tonight!

[georgeT]

Great job so far David, watching with interest...

[david.hill64]

As noted above there are so many good threads describing this build that  won't say too much here unless I think there is a learning point.

 

I am pleased with progress so far. Learning points:

 

Take care to identify and fit the brake shaft castings correctly. It took Mr Stupid three attempts to get it right............

 

Some 'rivet detail' isn't that at all, but holes to attach parts. So if you do like I did and add rivets to the buffer beam when I thought I had accidentally made a hole instead of embossing a rivet, you then find you have to remove them and drill them out.

 

Overall as expected a very nice kit. Lots of parts and a lot of work required. The Finney 7 downloadable instructions are very good but still have an element of 'now fit the remaining pieces'. I had some problems identifying what to do with the front steps.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[david.hill64]

Final details added to the frames: now awaiting clean up and painting. I forgot to locate the rear pull rods properly before taking these photos.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have now started preparing the parts for the main tender top.

[3 link]

Hi David,

 

The axle box/ springs look nice and crisp for white metal casting.

 

Not to criticise your work in anyway and it could be caused by the lens, but the buffer housings do not look to square against the beam?

 

Apart from that keep up the good work David.

 

All the best,

 

Martyn.

[david.hill64]

Hi David,

 

The axle box/ springs look nice and crisp for white metal casting.

 

Not to criticise your work in anyway and it could be caused by the lens, but the buffer housings do not look to square against the beam?

 

Apart from that keep up the good work David.

 

All the best,

 

Martyn.

Martyn,

 

Unfortunately you are correct: damn that lens! Time to warm up the iron again.

 

David

[david.hill64]

Hi David,

 

The axle box/ springs look nice and crisp for white metal casting.

 

Not to criticise your work in anyway and it could be caused by the lens, but the buffer housings do not look to square against the beam?

 

Apart from that keep up the good work David.

 

All the best,

 

Martyn.

The whitemetal castings are probably the best I have ever seen (even better than my efforts!!!). The lost wax castings are also a joy, but it's what you expect from a Finney kit.

 

I warmed up the iron and re-set the buffer housing before breakfast..............

[david.hill64]

Work has now commenced on the tender body. I decided that it would be easier to add the lamp detail to the rear before assembly of the tank. The following photo represents the fruits of a whole evening's work and I have to say that I think adding this detail now was the correct thing to do. Of course if it falls off or gets damaged later I will know that I am mistaken!

 

Still some cleaning up to do and the photo helps me see where.

 

[Dave Holt]

David, I think you're right to fit this detail now, whilst you can work in the flat - just take care not to damage it during the body assembly. I'm glad to see you've included the junction boxes in the conduit runs. I've recently spent some time helping pull the wires through such an arrangement on the back of 35006. Just for completeness, I think there should be an extra bit of conduit coming out of the LH side of the bottom LH lamp body, turning vertically downwards with an elbow and passing vertically through the tank bottom plate just behind the buffer beam. It then runs under the tender tank to near the front steps. At least, that's the arrangement on a rebuilt MN.

Dave.

[david.hill64]

David, I think you're right to fit this detail now, whilst you can work in the flat - just take care not to damage it during the body assembly. I'm glad to see you've included the junction boxes in the conduit runs. I've recently spent some time helping pull the wires through such an arrangement on the back of 35006. Just for completeness, I think there should be an extra bit of conduit coming out of the LH side of the bottom LH lamp body, turning vertically downwards with an elbow and passing vertically through the tank bottom plate just behind the buffer beam. It then runs under the tender tank to near the front steps. At least, that's the arrangement on a rebuilt MN.

Dave.

Dave,

 

You are correct. I will add this conduit once the tank is nearly complete. As you say it needs to go through the bottom plate and should link with the conduit already fitted to the frames. I have also yet to fit the TIA pipe, but this can be done only when the tank is nearly compete as it needs to link to the TIA tank on the water tank top (and also to the discharge valve on the buffer beam, but that is a different problem.............)

 

David

[2ManySpams]

I've got one of these to build at some stage as well, will be watching your progress with interest.

[jamie92208]

I've got one of these to build at some stage as well, will be watching your progress with interest.

 

It's making me very envious as I'm waiting for my Duchess kit which has been promised for Doncaster in a fortnight.   I'm very much enjoying watching the build progress.

 

Jamie

[david.hill64]

I am pleased with progress today. The tank rear and coal space rear were added to the bottom plate.

 

 

Followed by the tank top:

 

 

then the coal hopper:

 

 

No photos yet, but I am about half way through detailing the front plate. 31 pieces added so far................

 

I am harbouring an ambition to complete the tender tomorrow. I usually fail in these ambitions.............

 

 

[jamie92208]

Just as a matter of interest Dave, what sort of soldering iron and solder are you using please.

 

Jamie

[david.hill64]

Just as a matter of interest Dave, what sort of soldering iron and solder are you using please.

 

Jamie

I have a variety of both!

 

For most jobs these days I use an 80W iron, but I also have a 40W iron for smaller jobs and a temperature-set 'Whitemetal Master' for delicate whitemetal parts. All of these are Antec. Until recently though my weapon of choice was a £3 variable heat iron that I bought in a hardware store in Bangkok, but its best days are past. I will treat myself to a proper soldering station when I get home.

 

I also use a cook's blowtorch if I need a lot of heat. I used this on Crediton's tender front. You can see below that there are small hinge pins. These are made form copper wire that I tinned, then with some phosphoric acid flux were placed in position. Held in place with a scalpel, the blow torch was applied so that the solder on the hinge melted and flowed onto the back plate securing the hinge in place. 

 

 

Can you spot the 31 parts?

 

I use standard electrician's non-corrosive flux cored solder for most of the initial assembly work and will change to 145 degree solder for the later part of the build to stop other things becoming unstuck. Whitemetal parts are of course soldered with 70 degree lowmelt.

Edited May 21, 2017 by david.hill64

[dikitriki]

 Whitemetal parts are of course soldered with 70 degree lowmelt.

Hi David,

 

Can I suggest you give C&L 100 degree solder a try for soldering whitemetal to brass. It does not require tinning, and gives a much better bond. I now reserve 70 degree solder exclusively for whitemetal to whitemetal joints.

 

Richard

[david.hill64]

Hi David,

 

Can I suggest you give C&L 100 degree solder a try for soldering whitemetal to brass. It does not require tinning, and gives a much better bond. I now reserve 70 degree solder exclusively for whitemetal to whitemetal joints.

 

Richard

I'll give it a go.

[david.hill64]

This morning has seen the front plate nearly completed. I think just the conduit to the roof lamp to finish, but that needs the roof and lamp in place.