david.hill64 Posted May 21, 2017 Author Share Posted May 21, 2017 As expected, I have failed to complete the tender today and truth be told there is still quite a lot to do, so next weekend is the adjusted target. No issues at all with the build, there's just an awful lot of it. I thought I would put it all together and see how it fits. It does! I have rolled the sides to shape and they will fit well. I am toying with the idea of soldering the stays in place before fitting the sides as it will be so much easier to clean up after. I may do a test fit of one or two and if it is going to work fit them all. I can tack a dummy tank top in place to get the alignment correct but they locations are nicely half etched so it may not be necessary. In addition to the sides I have the roof, roof lamp, vacuum tanks, TIA piping, conduit and whitemetal steps to add. Now it's beer O'clock in Bangkok so I am going out for a cold one (or two) and watch the footie. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted June 14, 2017 Author Share Posted June 14, 2017 Wow: nearly 3 weeks since a post. A very busy three weeks it has been too, flying home, preparing for the Doncaster show and then returning to a deluge of work in the office resulting in long nights and being too tired to do much. However, work has progressed. The tank sides are on as is the roof. Last night I fitted the vacuum tanks. Unfortunately at some stage in the recent past the coupling lamp has gone missing: looking at the photos it had already gone walkabout when the last photos were taken. Anyway a mail has been sent to those nice chaps at Finney7 to see if I can buy a replacement. I have a business trip starting this weekend so progress will be further delayed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted June 17, 2017 Share Posted June 17, 2017 Final details added to the frames: now awaiting clean up and painting. I forgot to locate the rear pull rods properly before taking these photos. 001.JPG 002.JPG 003.JPG 004.JPG 005.JPG I have now started preparing the parts for the main tender top. Hi David, Nice work, but I'm not sure I like the push on wheels. I assume that's because the Slaters wheels for Finney kits have a smaller diameter axle and it's too small for the usual screw. How do the driving wheels fit on the axles? If you can't get the wheels off, how will you be cleaning it up for painting? I like to give a "mechanical" clean up (scraper, scratch brush, etc.) then a chemical clean with Viakal and a final rinse. If you put it in water with the wheels and axles in, you will need to ensure it is thoroughly dried especially between axles and bearings, or it will rust like hell. The "put it in the freezer" option as suggested earlier sound like a good bet to get the wheels off. Finally can you get the buffers and springs out for the same reason, as I think Finney kits have some sort of self contained system, instead of the usual big nut on the end. Cheers, Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale7JB Posted June 17, 2017 Share Posted June 17, 2017 It's only the tender and loco trailing wheels that have the smaller axles. The driving wheels still have the 3/16" axles. JB. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted June 26, 2017 Author Share Posted June 26, 2017 Hi David, Nice work, but I'm not sure I like the push on wheels. I assume that's because the Slaters wheels for Finney kits have a smaller diameter axle and it's too small for the usual screw. How do the driving wheels fit on the axles? If you can't get the wheels off, how will you be cleaning it up for painting? I like to give a "mechanical" clean up (scraper, scratch brush, etc.) then a chemical clean with Viakal and a final rinse. If you put it in water with the wheels and axles in, you will need to ensure it is thoroughly dried especially between axles and bearings, or it will rust like hell. The "put it in the freezer" option as suggested earlier sound like a good bet to get the wheels off. Finally can you get the buffers and springs out for the same reason, as I think Finney kits have some sort of self contained system, instead of the usual big nut on the end. Cheers, Peter Sorry for the delayed response: just had another week of travelling: not good for loco building! The tender has a separate bogie for the wheels and I will use blackening fluid on this. None of it will be visible once assembled so I am not too worried that I cannot get the wheels off now. As JB pointed out the driving wheels are conventional Slaters so will not present a problem. I will need to work out what to do with the loco bogie though. I got back to Bangkok yesterday to find that those nice chaps at Finney 7 have provided me with a replacement coupling lamp so I have no excuses for not getting the tender in the paint shop this weekend. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dikitriki Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 Sorry for the delayed response: just had another week of travelling: not good for loco building! The tender has a separate bogie for the wheels and I will use blackening fluid on this. None of it will be visible once assembled so I am not too worried that I cannot get the wheels off now. As JB pointed out the driving wheels are conventional Slaters so will not present a problem. I will need to work out what to do with the loco bogie though. I got back to Bangkok yesterday to find that those nice chaps at Finney 7 have provided me with a replacement coupling lamp so I have no excuses for not getting the tender in the paint shop this weekend. The tender has a separate inner chassis rather than a bogie, but it comes out just the same. With regard to the bogie wheels, I ream out the centre of one wheel of each pair ever so slowly and carefully until it is a 'push and twist' fit home. This wheel will then be removable for painting, and if it is a trifle loose, a touch of nut-lock on final assembly will fix it. The other wheel remains fixed to the axle, but can just be pulled out. Glad to help with the coupling light. Richard 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted July 5, 2017 Author Share Posted July 5, 2017 Yet another long time since posting. Pleased to report that work continues and now there are less than 10 parts I think to add to the tender. It will have taken me longer to build this than I have taken with a complete loco and tender kit. This is no criticism of what is a superb kit: it's just a comment that there is a lot to it! I'll get some photos taken at the weekend. Monday is a holiday here so I am looking forward to getting a start on the loco chassis. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted July 8, 2017 Author Share Posted July 8, 2017 Photo time. Makes me realise that I haven't fitted the coupling lamp yet. Obviously in need of a good clean. I wondered looking at the photos if the tender raves were straight. Unless my steel ruler is bent they are ok. Some parallax error methinks. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted July 9, 2017 Author Share Posted July 9, 2017 Now the fun begins. I have started on the loco chassis and have assembled the coupling rods (good to see the instructions start with this critical part), embossed the rivets on the frames, cut out the frames to take the hornblocks (this will be a compensated build) and assembled the hornblocks. Unfortunately I cannot upload any photos today with either the basic or advanced uploader so cannot show progress. Tomorrow is a holiday here so i am hoping for a good session at the bench. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted July 9, 2017 Share Posted July 9, 2017 (edited) I had the same problem with uploading a photo last night. Must be an issue with the website. Edited July 9, 2017 by PAD Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deano747 Posted July 9, 2017 Share Posted July 9, 2017 I had the same problem with uploading a photo last night. Must be an issue with the website. Hi All, note the red banner at the top of the page, problem is being looked into. Soon, I hope as I really enjoy following these builds as all my stuff is packed away pending a house move this coming week!! (Finally!!) Keep up the good work!! Regards, Deano. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted July 9, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 9, 2017 Photo upload now seems to be fixed - I've just done a batch. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted July 10, 2017 Author Share Posted July 10, 2017 (edited) Here are the two photos that would not upload the other day. Today I prepared the various frame spacers: I then tacked the frames together and located the front hornblocks. I used a long length of 3/16 steel rod to check that the bearings were at 90 degrees to the frames. So far so good. However when I located the centre and rear blocks with the alignment tools and the coupling rods, I had a most unwelcome surprise: There is no way that a Finney kit can be that far out so I donned the deerstalker and started investigations. Measuring up the front coupling rod centres showed them to me about 1.5mm shorter than the drawing. A careful re-reading of the instructions revealed the answer. The kit comes with alternate parts for coupling rods with the knuckle forward or rear of the central axle. The instructions include a table of which parts to use for each type. Unfortunately I had followed the illustration in the instructions which is incorrectly annotated and used the wrong parts. Luckily I was able to break the rods without losing or damaging the knuckle pin so I was able to build up a set of correct rods. Using these resulted in a different story: So the blocks were soldered in place with 145 solder. Finally teh gearbox reaction bracket was added. So in the end a good morning's work. Edited July 10, 2017 by david.hill64 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted July 16, 2017 Author Share Posted July 16, 2017 Assembly continues: The compensation beams are not installed yet, but I couldn't resist seeing how it would look with wheels on! 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 Are the hornblocks the Finney ones? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted July 17, 2017 Author Share Posted July 17, 2017 Are the hornblocks the Finney ones? Yes Jeff. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Holt Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 Very much looking forward to the functional oil bath and chain driven valve gear........ 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted July 19, 2017 Author Share Posted July 19, 2017 Very much looking forward to the functional oil bath and chain driven valve gear........ Unfortunately I seem to have mislaid those parts.................. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted August 2, 2017 Author Share Posted August 2, 2017 Wow! over 2 weeks and no posts. The excuse is that I had a pleasant trip back home to get some Gladiator kits packed for Telford. I also needed to pick up some tube and steel wire as the bits needed for this kit weren't where they should have been! No pictures until the weekend but I have been building the bogie and pony trucks: works of art both of them. I took Richard's advice to ream out the wheel centres so I can now get the wheels on and off as required. It will not be necessary on the pony as the design allows for the wheels and axle to be dropped out. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 Unfortunately I seem to have mislaid those parts.................. Probably for the best! Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted August 5, 2017 Author Share Posted August 5, 2017 So here are the nearly complete bogie and pony assemblies: Now it's question time. Can anybody spot a problem here? These are the three axles provided with the driving wheels. While setting up the compensation I was having problems getting the wheels to sit on the rails. No wonder as two of the axles are about 2mm too long I think. Never had that issue before. I think some communication with Slaters is in order! Or am I missing something? 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted August 5, 2017 Share Posted August 5, 2017 So here are the nearly complete bogie and pony assemblies: 002.JPG Now it's question time. Can anybody spot a problem here? 003.JPG These are the three axles provided with the driving wheels. While setting up the compensation I was having problems getting the wheels to sit on the rails. No wonder as two of the axles are about 2mm too long I think. Never had that issue before. I think some communication with Slaters is in order! Or am I missing something? Scale7 perhaps? Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted August 5, 2017 Author Share Posted August 5, 2017 (edited) Scale7 perhaps? Sandy Sandy: good call, I think. 31.25mm between faces. Rather than build a mixed gauge loco, I've purloined some replacements from the next build. Very pleased to find that the chassis runs smoothly with rods on. Now to fit pick-ups and give it a whirl on the test track. Edit for typo. Edited August 5, 2017 by david.hill64 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted August 7, 2017 Author Share Posted August 7, 2017 I have had the chassis running on teh test track: no problems so removed teh wheels and got on withe the cylinders. I have followed the instructions but feel that it would have been better to have fitted the cylinder wrappers earlier as the whilemetal valve chests are going to make soldering a challenge. The other learning point concerns the drains from the valve chests: not clear at first but on further study these go to the middle of the drain pipe assembly (not yet piped up). So I am going to have to hope I can remove the pipes I have fitted and then, starting from the bends in the drainpipe area work back up to the valve chests. This will mean of course fitting the cylinders permanently, so I will wait a while before doing this. The great think about a Finney kit is that things fit together. I was worried about fitting the drain cock operating rod as this has to fit on three spigots, but of course it just did. Time to move onto the slide bars. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted August 7, 2017 Share Posted August 7, 2017 Did all the rods and drain cocks come with the kit? I have always had to supply. I like the mounting holding the cocks so the cylinders can be removed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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