Rob Pulham Posted October 15, 2017 Share Posted October 15, 2017 I'm with Peter on this: I do believe it is. Lovely casting too. Thanks, in that case I might obtain one for my B1 - It's has a nice whitemetal casting with it but it's not as detailed as that one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted October 15, 2017 Author Share Posted October 15, 2017 Hope you are checking the free movement of the trailing wheels. On mine in the end I had to make the wheels side movement as great as possible within the framework that's supposed to move. This may of been the poor kit design or me adding better casting from other manufacturers. Looking great now. They are very busy under the cab. Peter Good point. I might have to re-route one injector pipe. Thanks David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted October 15, 2017 Share Posted October 15, 2017 Mine unfortunately was not a Finney7 one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted November 6, 2017 Author Share Posted November 6, 2017 No updates for a while and not much progress. Unfortunately Mum fell and broke her pelvis, resulting in a trip back home for me. She's back home now. I did re-route one injector pipe and tested the rolling chassis through my test track - two Peco points giving a nice 6' radius reverse curve - and all was well. I have also painted most of the frames so the next task is to put it all back together and see if it still works. I will then be able to complete the drain pipes around the cylinders. There are drains from the valve chests that go into the drain pipe assembly, but if these are fixed in place it will not be possible to remove the cylinders for maintenance so I am minded to secure the pipes with paint only. I'll take photos to show this. I have also started on the body casting: removing some surplus rivets as per instructions, filling the hole for the unwanted front sandpipes and drilling out for fittings. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted November 6, 2017 Share Posted November 6, 2017 Best wishes to your mum. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted November 18, 2017 Author Share Posted November 18, 2017 One more photo of the frames. I thought I had photographed the painted chassis parts but not. Anyway the chassis ready for reassembly and I have been doing work on the casing. Hopefully more later! 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted November 22, 2017 Author Share Posted November 22, 2017 Body and chassis united. Chassis still not completed, but now that I know it fits I cab get on with it! 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted November 22, 2017 Share Posted November 22, 2017 Hi David, Looks good. The resin casting must save hours of work. Is it hollow so that those who like to fit sound chips etc have space to add them? Cheers, Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted November 22, 2017 Author Share Posted November 22, 2017 Hi David, Looks good. The resin casting must save hours of work. Is it hollow so that those who like to fit sound chips etc have space to add them? Cheers, Peter Thank you. Yes it is hollow: loads of space inside. The material is also nice to work with: easy to drill and sand. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium jamie92208 Posted November 22, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 22, 2017 Thank you. Yes it is hollow: loads of space inside. The material is also nice to work with: easy to drill and sand. That's useful to know David, I need to remove some resin to get my chosen motor gearbox to fit in the duchess that's sitting waiting to be built. I'm really enjoying watching this thread David. Jamie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted December 14, 2017 Author Share Posted December 14, 2017 (edited) I have reverted to assembling the chassis. Some minor problems, there is an intermittent short that I haven't yet tracked down: being intermittent it is problematic. I have also found that the sanders are a bit vulnerable and are going to have to be re-fixed. The crankpin castings supplied in the kit have 12BA(?) cast threads. But the Mundy crankpins have 10BA threaded holes, so i needed to modify the castings. I drilled through from the front: the detail in the casting centres the drill nicely. I kept going until the head was spinning on the drill as the head came free from the threaded portion. Taking care that it didn't shoot off across the room, I then tapped the heads 10BA and soldered in place a length of 10BA threaded bar taken form a long screw. The head was then cleaned up and we now have some 10BA coupling rod retainers. Edited December 14, 2017 by david.hill64 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted December 18, 2017 Author Share Posted December 18, 2017 No photos yet, but a bit of an update. I now have a smoothly running 0-6-0 WC. The intermittent short turned out to be the sanders. As designed the sand pipe and steam pipe run up behind the wheels and into holes in the frames. I had done it this way and threaded the sanders through the brake gear. Unfortunately I could not control properly the run of the copper wires and it looks like they were occasionally touching the backs of the wheels occasionally causing the short. After a good deal of head scratching I realised that I was never going to be able to get this arrangement to work reliably so I have copped out and soldered the sanders directly to the brake gear. It will not pass the magnifying glass (or cruel photo) test but at first glance looks OK. The next job is to add the cylinders and check that all is still well with the connecting rods added. If so then it is completing the various cylinder drain pipes and adding bogie and pony to make it a 4-6-2. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium jamie92208 Posted December 18, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 18, 2017 (edited) No photos yet, but a bit of an update. I now have a smoothly running 0-6-0 WC. The intermittent short turned out to be the sanders. As designed the sand pipe and steam pipe run up behind the wheels and into holes in the frames. I had done it this way and threaded the sanders through the brake gear. Unfortunately I could not control properly the run of the copper wires and it looks like they were occasionally touching the backs of the wheels occasionally causing the short. After a good deal of head scratching I realised that I was never going to be able to get this arrangement to work reliably so I have copped out and soldered the sanders directly to the brake gear. It will not pass the magnifying glass (or cruel photo) test but at first glance looks OK. The next job is to add the cylinders and check that all is still well with the connecting rods added. If so then it is completing the various cylinder drain pipes and adding bogie and pony to make it a 4-6-2. I wonder if it would be feasible to use insulated copper wire of the type used for motor windings to eliminate this problem you can get it in a variety of diameters. You'd just need to scrape the enamel off at where it's soldered to other fittings. Jamie Edited December 18, 2017 by jamie92208 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted December 18, 2017 Author Share Posted December 18, 2017 I wonder if it would be feasible to use insulated copper wire of the type used for motor windings to eliminate this problem you can get it in a variety of diameters. You'd just need to scrape the enamel off at where it's soldered to other fittings. Jamie Yes probably possible. There is limited space to get the sanders through the brake gear and route the wires so they avoid the backs of the wheels. You can see form the photo in post 81 how the arrangement is supposed to be, but once you add the brake gear in place (with pull rods both sides) it was not possible for me to get the sanders lined up and out of the way of the backs of the wheels. It probably needs something stiffer than the 0.3mm and 0.6mm wires, but if they are too stiff then you cannot manipulate through the rods. The pipes were painted, but the wheels had rubbed off the paint allowing the short. I'll have another look this evening and take a photo: we'll let the jury decide if it's good enough! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted December 19, 2017 Author Share Posted December 19, 2017 Still no photos but another update. The inside cylinder 0-6-0 has now been converted to an outside cylinder 0-6-0 and runs well. There is very limited space between the connecting rods and the leading wheel crankpins, so the connecting rod big end has had to be spaced out from the coupling rod. In doing so the connecting rods are parallel to the frames, so this seems about right. So now I can get on with completing the chassis before finishing the body front end and getting on with the cab. The success of a running chassis has brought a welcome injection of mojo into the woefully depleted store, so I am once again motivated to get on with it. For various reasons - not entirely unconnected with not having a passport currently while the Thai authorities cancel my resident visa - I will once again miss Christmas at home so I will have time here to get this loco completed. I shall still be south for the Thames for the next project: a Gladiator H2. I shall be taking that opportunity to enhance the instructions which are lacking in visual aids. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted December 25, 2017 Author Share Posted December 25, 2017 (edited) THe chassis sits in the morning Bangkok sunshine: Here a cruel close up: Fitting the rear pony truck was a bit of a pain as the brake rodding gets in the way. Still have some paintwork touch ups to do, and one sander to replace. Merry Christmas to all! Edited December 25, 2017 by david.hill64 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted December 25, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 25, 2017 THe chassis sits in the morning Bangkok sunshine: DSC_0001.JPG Here a cruel close up: DSC_0004.JPG Fitting the rear pony truck was a bit of a pain as the brake rodding gets in the way. Still have some paintwork touch ups to do, and one sander to replace. Merry Christmas to all! Can't be many, if any, Bulleids in Bangkok. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted December 25, 2017 Share Posted December 25, 2017 .....Bulleids in Bangkok. That sounds like the title to some sort of all-action movie. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted December 25, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 25, 2017 That sounds like the title to some sort of all-action movie. Staring Arnie and Bruce or Scarlet Pantsdropoffalot? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted December 25, 2017 Share Posted December 25, 2017 Staring Arnie and Bruce or Scarlet Pantsdropoffalot? You know how they say that somewhere there's a Bulleid with your name on it...? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petebe Posted December 27, 2017 Share Posted December 27, 2017 Hi David Got to say what a good build you're doing. As I have said on Peter's DOS stream, my next build will be a finny and now I know you're building one I don't feel guilty in not having another one of yours. As a great man once said, I'll be back !!!!! I bet you are the only guy who's building a loco in the evenings in Bangkok !!!!!! lol Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 Work continues: still a bit of fettling required to get the chassis to run smoothly through 6' radius curves, but nearly there. I have returned to the front end and it is making progress. I had hoped that it would be ready this month (actually I have had this hope for the last 4 months) but alas there is still much to do. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted February 4, 2018 Author Share Posted February 4, 2018 Well it has been a very busy month, but not on the Crediton front. I have left my job in warm and sunny Bangkok and temporarily moved to Taoyuan Taiwan which is cold and wet and very grey. I have transported the modelling table here and now need to find everything again. I had the pleasure of two whole weeks at home which was excellent for the Gladiator stuff and domestic harmony, but now the time has come to get back on with Crediton as it is now more than a year since I started this build (though the mogul was also completed in the time). I have now completed the detailing of the front end lower portion. This will now be added to the casing and the front end detailing completed. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted February 4, 2018 Author Share Posted February 4, 2018 A bit more progress has seen the front end nearly complete. I still need to do the atomisers and associated pipework, plus the lamps and brackets for the deflectors. I noticed that the steam heat lever had disappeared: fortunately there is a spare in the kit so this has since been added. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 Interesting build David, and as an aside I am a retired Building Inspector who's office was in Crediton. The Council Chamber next to my room had / has one of the original nameplates off this locomotive ( firmly ) fixed to one wall. Keep up the good work. Grahame 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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