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Red Damsel - A Super Detailed Slater's Quarry Hunslet in 16mm Scale


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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Read through this thread multiple times. Sorely tempting to go and buy one myself but after seeing yours I think ill have to do a few of your mods. Before I do dive in to a kit I have a,few questions

 

What prototype information is included with the kit? I quite like the look of the side mounted injectors so is there information in the kit on positions for these or is it all you own working out?

 

Does every solder joint require a bit iron or gas torch?

 

Also following your De Winton build and equally excellent work on that

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Read through this thread multiple times. Sorely tempting to go and buy one myself but after seeing yours I think ill have to do a few of your mods. Before I do dive in to a kit I have a,few questions

 

What prototype information is included with the kit? I quite like the look of the side mounted injectors so is there information in the kit on positions for these or is it all you own working out?

 

Does every solder joint require a bit iron or gas torch?

 

Also following your De Winton build and equally excellent work on that

 

I'll scan you the instructions if you'd like to browse through them before purchasing one. They are very sparse on prototype info, which is perhaps reasonable given that Cliff Thomas' book on the subject is already quite sizeable and yet barely scratches the surface of individual histories. The positioning of the injectors was by my own working out for the clacks, which I actually did wrong putting them on the boiler centre line when they are in fact central between the wheels. The injectors themselves were positioned from D.H. Townsley's drawing of Velinhel, in fact all the added components originated on this drawing. 

 

All my soldering has been done with a CSI premier 75w iron, but it has been slow going as there's a large amount of material to heat. A gas torch would make things a lot easier, and I will purchase one before attempting the next big loco like this. 

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Actually, Message me you address and I'll post you the original, scanner's acting up! The brass angle came from Eileens, and the Shackles were If I remember right Cornwall Model Boats. Somewhere model boat related anyway! A lot of places do plain D links, the nice curved ones are harder to come by. 

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  • 3 months later...

They are available from my Shapeways shop, along with Dolbadarn, Cloister & Maid Marian.

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/FSWPU2MW7/nampeplate-red-damsel-16mm-scale-sm32


They are available from my Shapeways shop, along with Dolbadarn, Cloister & Maid Marian.

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/FSWPU2MW7/nampeplate-red-damsel-16mm-scale-sm32

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  • 1 year later...

Sorry to make such a late comment to this fantastic and inspiring thread, but I wonder if I could ask Alan for a couple of clarifications please ?

 

From an earlier comment; are many of the parts laminations of layers of photo etch brass sheet for the parts needing greater strength (eg frames, con rods) ?

 

If so, does that mean (as mentioned above) you've used a lower melting point solder to join parts to already built components to prevent previous joints/laminations disassembling ?
If so did you use just one iteration or several (Carr's list at least half a dozen different melting point solders) ?


Just to add something some may have missed. This old (1960) colour film from the BFI archives is a great source of information for seeing how these locos looked when working.

https://player.bfi.org.uk/free/film/watch-dinorwic-and-penrhyn-slate-quarries-1960-online

Edited by Paul_in_Ricky
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  • 7 months later...
On 25/09/2019 at 15:23, Paul_in_Ricky said:

Sorry to make such a late comment to this fantastic and inspiring thread, but I wonder if I could ask Alan for a couple of clarifications please ?

 

From an earlier comment; are many of the parts laminations of layers of photo etch brass sheet for the parts needing greater strength (eg frames, con rods) ?

 

If so, does that mean (as mentioned above) you've used a lower melting point solder to join parts to already built components to prevent previous joints/laminations disassembling ?
If so did you use just one iteration or several (Carr's list at least half a dozen different melting point solders) ?


Just to add something some may have missed. This old (1960) colour film from the BFI archives is a great source of information for seeing how these locos looked when working.

https://player.bfi.org.uk/free/film/watch-dinorwic-and-penrhyn-slate-quarries-1960-online

 

Not many laminations really, buffer beams, frames, rear cab sheet and rods. All laminated parts are built up using 179 degree solder paste, and soldered to the rest of the  model (where applicable) with 130 degree paste, the first is Carrs, the second was from ebay. 

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Thanks for the reply Alan. You've done a brilliant job of this and thanks for documenting the build so well. Your thread makes a good addition to Slater's instructions which leave something to be desired (although better than some).

 

I've now got one of these kits and am starting to prepare everything and research the prototype even more. Sadly I now can't get to see one of the actual engines for the foreseeable future, so photos will be all I have to go on.  Working out the chassis rivet detail is quite a challenge. Huge admiration to you for going so far as filing off the heads of 14ba ch bolts, that takes some dedication. It's really difficult to see from photos what the chassis fixings are on the prototype, round flat heads, domed heads or hex heads. I think a mixture of all three in different locations.

My added challenge will be putting batteries and radio control in mine. Currently planning on making an alternative boiler in acrylic tube and having a removable saddle tank to gain access to a battery compartment. 

 

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