Jump to content
 

Modern Micro Layout


Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Gold

With limited prospects of a full size layout any time soon due to space, work and studying, I've decided to explore micro layouts using a piece of chipboard I found in the garage. I've been reading up on micro layouts over Xmas, and am keen to make one and do some modelling. The plan is to use what I have as far as possible, which means the chipboard, cheap but brand new Hornby and Bachmann track as well as 20+ year old Peco and other track I l kept from my teenage layout. I have a good selection of track from discounted train sets and track packs I've bought. This means insulfrog points but Hornby points are nice and short, ideal for a small space.

 

The objective is to have a very small layout that has operating potential for my existing D&E Stock and be modern image. I envisage it being set in an urban environment surrounded by retaining walls and tunnels. One end is a terminus, with trains coming in from the left from a simple fiddle yard. It is not intended to be prototypical but offer lots of scope for movement. It will be set for DC but will allow DCC function as I have a few DCC locos.

 

The chipboard is 683 x 250mm, and the plan is to have a very small terminus station with 2 routes, utilising my existing DMU stock of 153, 143 and 150's. Planning is a mix of placing the various track parts I have and using the very useful AnyRail software. This led to the following layout:

 

gallery_24698_4156_48469.jpg

 

gallery_24698_4156_29504.jpg

 

gallery_24698_4156_208222.jpg

 

The primary line is at the top, leading to the 2 car platform that will take a 143 but nothing longer (e.g. not a 158). The second platform will only take a single car unit like the 153, or a single equivalent coach such as a Mk3. The line off this platform will be a short urban branch service run by the 153, and a link to the sidings below. The line below will be the headshunt of some larger facility that will allow 08's, Sentinels etc to move wagons or coaches around. With a Wabtec Sentinel this could be a coach facility. Rolling stock appearing on these sidings can then reappear on the second line into the platform, to be left for collection. Perhaps single Mk3's are dropped off and collected by a loco, as per real practice, for repair. These are then collected by a shunter and pulled along the branch.

 

The plan is for basic point motor operation by building a frame for the chipboard and using old Peco motors and switches I have. Signals will have to be bought new, with multi aspect at the end of each platform, feathers on the branch line. I assume ground signals may be required but have no idea what, so any suggestions appreciated. Track will be laid on cork and ballasted. The platform at the top will eb quite narrow so will have to see how that works out. I've bought Metcalfe kits for Viaduct (the left hand side scenic break) and platforms to experiment with.

 

Next step is to dig through my old boxes and tins and find the point motors, switches, wire etc, and then build a frame.

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

With limited prospects of a full size layout any time soon due to space, work and studying, I've decided to explore micro layouts using a piece of chipboard I found in the garage. I've been reading up on micro layouts over Xmas, and am keen to make one and do some modelling. The plan is to use what I have as far as possible, which means the chipboard, cheap but brand new Hornby and Bachmann track as well as 20+ year old Peco and other track I l kept from my teenage layout. I have a good selection of track from discounted train sets and track packs I've bought. This means insulfrog points but Hornby points are nice and short, ideal for a small space.

 

The objective is to have a very small layout that has operating potential for my existing D&E Stock and be modern image. I envisage it being set in an urban environment surrounded by retaining walls and tunnels. One end is a terminus, with trains coming in from the left from a simple fiddle yard. It is not intended to be prototypical but offer lots of scope for movement. It will be set for DC but will allow DCC function as I have a few DCC locos.

 

The chipboard is 683 x 250mm, and the plan is to have a very small terminus station with 2 routes, utilising my existing DMU stock of 153, 143 and 150's. Planning is a mix of placing the various track parts I have and using the very useful AnyRail software. This led to the following layout:

 

gallery_24698_4156_48469.jpg

 

gallery_24698_4156_29504.jpg

 

gallery_24698_4156_208222.jpg

 

The primary line is at the top, leading to the 2 car platform that will take a 143 but nothing longer (e.g. not a 158). The second platform will only take a single car unit like the 153, or a single equivalent coach such as a Mk3. The line off this platform will be a short urban branch service run by the 153, and a link to the sidings below. The line below will be the headshunt of some larger facility that will allow 08's, Sentinels etc to move wagons or coaches around. With a Wabtec Sentinel this could be a coach facility. Rolling stock appearing on these sidings can then reappear on the second line into the platform, to be left for collection. Perhaps single Mk3's are dropped off and collected by a loco, as per real practice, for repair. These are then collected by a shunter and pulled along the branch.

 

The plan is for basic point motor operation by building a frame for the chipboard and using old Peco motors and switches I have. Signals will have to be bought new, with multi aspect at the end of each platform, feathers on the branch line. I assume ground signals may be required but have no idea what, so any suggestions appreciated. Track will be laid on cork and ballasted. The platform at the top will eb quite narrow so will have to see how that works out. I've bought Metcalfe kits for Viaduct (the left hand side scenic break) and platforms to experiment with.

 

Next step is to dig through my old boxes and tins and find the point motors, switches, wire etc, and then build a frame.

One quick comment. Won't the 153 foul anything in your lowest line as it runs in and out given the current spacing you have? That may limit your operations.

 

Good luck with it.

 

Roy

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Hi Tony,

 

A modern micro layout is always good to see, and much harder than a steam era one, as even the smallest modern stock is bigger.  As said above, your 153 (or even the 143) will clout anything in the front siding when it runs in, and will need a huuuuge gap between it and the curved platform face.  The latter, of course, will always be a compromise.  In my head I'm trying to envisage the middle point being replaced with a Y, but that would leave a narrower platform, possibly too narrow.  Possibly an obvious point too but in the siding, there wouldn't be room for a Mk3 and loco without fouling the point, a shorter coach or wagon of course would fit fine!

 

I look forward to seeing the progress on this though :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Thanks for the comments. Still trying to get rid of a bout of man-flu so no progress beyond buying some supplies for the scenery.

 

I did look at the siding and as below there is just enough clearance.

 

gallery_24698_4156_31850.jpg

 

I also agree with JDW's comment about the platform- that's the thing that is bothering me as I don't think it will look great. There will be the big gap and an overly wide and one sided platform. I've made the top edge of the large platform area will be fenced as it is shorter than the other side and long enough for a Pacer.  

 

An early iteration was a straight platform instead of the curve, but you lose the length to get a 153 in and be clear of the points. I also tried a Y point but it was not good either. I think I'll revisit the entire station/platform area.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Premium

You could try a trick already done by others. Make your model look like part of a station, so the platforms are assumed to continue further to the right. You could achieve this by having just a couple of inches of platform canopy eg the Peco one.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

Thanks for all the input :) After a lull and half term I've got back to track planning. The plan above ended up requiring me to buy 2 new points despite having quite a few knocking about. After more playing around with what I had to hand (a variety of Peco streamline points that are too long and lots of LH Hornby/Bachmann ones) and trying to work out how to build a track plan requiring lots of RH points when I had lots of LH ones, it eventually dawned on me (not the sharpest, clearly!) that if I flipped the plan over then all the RH points would become LH ones! Which means I can stick to using what track I have already, one of the objectives.

 

gallery_24698_4156_22302.jpg

 

The rulers show the length of key rolling stock, and using the short points and pushing points into the fiddle yard the Class 143 can now run everywhere on the layout. I then wondered if a 156 would fit but it doesn't and I'm not extending it again to fit. The format seems a bit more conventional but it is workable and all the scenic areas are linked via the fiddle yard, so stock does not have to be moved by hand. The fiddle yard board is the same length as the scenic area for simplicity.

 

I was also toying with installing Kadee uncouplers but the electric ones are about £20 a piece (3 are required) and I haven't got Kadee couplings as yet (and reading up on them its a bit fiddly due to NEM pocket heights etc) so will leave that for now. Next steps are to lay out this plan and also cut a piece of chipboard to size for the fiddle yard.

Edited by ruggedpeak
  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Thanks for all the input :) After a lull and half term I've got back to track planning. The plan above ended up requiring me to buy 2 new points despite having quite a few knocking about. After more playing around with what I had to hand (a variety of Peco streamline points that are too long and lots of LH Hornby/Bachmann ones) and trying to work out how to build a track plan requiring lots of RH points when I had lots of LH ones, it eventually dawned on me (not the sharpest, clearly!) that if I flipped the plan over then all the RH points would become LH ones! Which means I can stick to using what track I have already, one of the objectives.

 

 

Sometimes these things are staring you in the face all along!  Still, beware of stock catching the platform running in to/out of the lower platform from the top track in the FY.  

 

Could the scenic break be put at an angle, starting where it does at the back of the layout but at 45 degrees to give a longer front to the scenic section?  Maybe even have the row of grid squares in front of the FY as scenic too, with the backscene extending in front of it?  Maybe a suggested urban wooded area that the line passes behind?  (I was going to suggest low relief houses but obviously with the track close behind them, there couldn't be any house fronts there!)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Taking the design further, if you have a board, that only has a very short piece of tack to locate an extended Peco Locolift cassette. They are mechanically joined by replacing the sides with plywood ones.

 

The track is protected using rubber doorstops and thus the 2 hinged boards can be placed on a table without damaging the track on the fiddleyard board.

 

Thus the length of the scenic section can be greatly expanded!

 

post-31045-0-89812300-1488231014_thumb.jpg

 

Eleanor

Edited by Eleanor Mentry
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Taking the design further, if you have a board, that only has a very short piece of tack to locate an extended Peco Locolift cassette. They are mechanically joined by replacing the sides with plywood ones.

 

The track is protected using rubber doorstops and thus the 2 hinged boards can be placed on a table without damaging the track on the fiddleyard board.

 

Thus the length of the scenic section can be greatly expanded!

 

attachicon.gifOO_Micro.jpg

 

Eleanor

HI Eleanor

 

Those are great ideas, however I have several key objectives I am trying (!) to stick to with this layout. The first is to limit the scenic part to the size of a lump of chipboard I found (683x250mm). The second is not to buy any more track or other items except scenery unless I really have to. The size challenge falls away if the size keeps creeping up!

 

Having laid track as per post 11, with curves from the fiddle yard into the sidings and platform to make some interest, I have found one of the key pieces of rolling stock, my Realtrack 143, really doesn't like being sent through the points from the fiddle yards where one part of the train is on one curve and the other is on an opposite curve. This is not a fault of the model, but my using short Hornby points. The tight reverse curve alignment tips it/derails it.

 

So everything has had to be straightened:

 

gallery_24698_4156_14568.jpg

 

The straight lines was something I was hoping to avoid but to get a 2 car Pacer in or allow a loco hauled Mk3 to be dropped off in the space means short points and thus compromises. Ignore the platform tightness, it is the standard Hornby item in Anyrail (will use Metcalfe kit) and gap between the two platform roads can be adjusted in due course.

 

I did manage to find another piece of chipboard of sufficient length to allow me to have a single board for both the scenic section and fiddle yard, which saves some work :)

 

Will ponder the track layout a bit more but I think straight lines are a result of the size if I'm using full size locos etc - a Peckett or Sentinel focused layout would be fine with the earlier designs.

Edited by ruggedpeak
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • RMweb Gold

The next activity has been to build a Metcalfe viaduct to form the scenic break. This double arched viaduct becomes a key limitation on the track layout, but having it built gave me something tangible to play with. I did consider a single span girder bridge or similar but would like the try and get the layout to fit the viaduct kit. After a lot of playing around with the track plans I have come up with the following which seems to quiet well:

 

gallery_24698_4156_55884.jpg

 

The main change is the move to use a Hornby Y point on the lower fiddle yard entrance. I then found that normal Hornby points don't fit well with the Y point in terms of geometry but an old Peco Streamline LH point fits almost perfectly. This means I can retain 3 roads in the fiddle yard - using Hornby points back to back was too wide to have double tracks through the viaduct, hence switchingto the Y. This means there can be shunting moves independent of trains going in and out of both platforms at the station.

 

A Mk3 passing into the viaduct at this point does get quite close to the brick pier but fits:
 

gallery_24698_4156_1535451.jpg

 

The Metcalfe viaduct kit has two double arch sections to it, and one is almost the perfect width for the board. It then dawned on me that the other section would be ideal as the scenic end for the station:

 

gallery_24698_4156_391919.jpg

 

gallery_24698_4156_391919.jpg

 

The platform will still sit between the Pacer and Mk3, but with the viaduct sitting on top of it. I have a Metcalfe retaining wall kit to run alng the back which was slightly too short for the original backscene gap, but with both viaducts it may now fit. This has several advantages:

 

1) I don't have to figure out how to model a 'flat' end of platform/station scene

2) It gives the impression of being a through line

3) I could use this layout as a through station as part of a large layout in the future

 

:) This is the approximate track layout now:

 

gallery_24698_4156_391919.jpg

 

This leaves one key question, are the viaducts too high for the setting? They are a lot taller than the trains - is this prototypical or do they need cutting down. Will need to plough through books and magazines to see if there are similar prototypes. I think it works at the station end with the extra height but am going to do a cardboard model of reduced height at the other end to see how it looks to make it more like a tunnel entrace.

Edited by ruggedpeak
  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

They look quite tall but 

- look at somewhere like the cutting that collapsed in Liverpool recently, that was also very tall

- it depends on the height of the imagined surrounding land, if the cutting is deep, then the arch will be correspondingly tall.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Great looking layout, thanks for sharing the dimensions of the DMU's I have been constructing a similar layout my self and chosen to model a contemporary setting. I am planning to purchase a class 153 but have not enough room for a 2 car DMU, maybe a class 150.  

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/119009-41-00-commuting-shunting-layout/&do=findComment&comment=2615773

Greg

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Great looking layout, thanks for sharing the dimensions of the DMU's I have been constructing a similar layout my self and chosen to model a contemporary setting. I am planning to purchase a class 153 but have not enough room for a 2 car DMU, maybe a class 150.  

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/119009-41-00-commuting-shunting-layout/&do=findComment&comment=2615773

Greg

Thanks Greg, yours look good too. Rails certainly have Hornby 153's inexpensive prices.

 

Tony

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I have mocked up a viaduct at a reduced height of about 110mm, which is just about the height of the retaining wall kit I am building at the moment. At that height the tunnels still look quite high, however I won't cut down the mockup further until the retaining walls are finished and can be positioned as if I cut down the viaduct there will a height difference at each end where they join. May take a while as there's a few repetitive bits in the kit to glue.

 

gallery_24698_4156_44106.jpg

Edited by ruggedpeak
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Having been slightly hung over this morning the best thing to get over it was to sit and glue the various components of the retaining wall together. Having got each section made they were placed on the board, as below. Looking more like a layout now :)

 

gallery_24698_4156_1506661.jpg

 

A few things arose:

  • there is a gap at one end between the wall and viaduct but I have brick material that matches it so will fill it
  • the viaduct brickwork pattern is not the same as the retaining wall
  • I will need to widen the baseboard by 2cm or so as the wall is quite deep due to the abutments
  • another realisation - the short platform '2' will have to be shorter as the viaduct blocks it off, but a 153 will just fit so passengers can alight at each end

I also considered installing another retaining wall section and pushing the station end tunnel mouth to the edge of the board, as set out below.

 

gallery_24698_4156_530404.jpg

 

However I feel this makes the station scenic end more difficult and less flexible. With the full width the viaduct on the board the station can either be a terminus or a through station, and I don't have to worry so much about the end scenery as it is concealed under the viaduct. The layout can potentially be a through layout (sort of modular) for much longer trains if the fiddle yard is extended and another fiddle yard put behind the station end. This is quite appealing to have a much longer train, say an ATW DVT sitting at the platform and then pulling away and the whole train emerging.

 

The lower height viaduct is much better, and can't be any lower or train roofs will catch. I just need to carefully cut down the viaduct section I've built and trim the one that is still in the packet before I make it. Hopefully a new blade on the knife and some care will mean that works out OK.

 

Next job is to mark the approximate position of the points and think about widening and strengthening the board before it warps.

Edited by ruggedpeak
  • Like 7
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Late last night I took the scalpel and sprue snips to the Metcalfe viaduct I'd already made up and reduced its height to 110mm by trimming off the bottom. Fortunately I managed to do it without completely butchering it and it now sits at a similar height to the retaining wall. Looks OK, pleased with it. Shows the strength of the Metcalfe kits if well glued as it was very awkward cutting through the bottom of the walls with right angles and reinforced sections without crushing it.

 

gallery_24698_4156_912146.jpg

 

Will trim the other viaduct before I build it so should be easier.

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

Latest job is to finish the baseboard and turn a bit of chipboard into something more robust. Sticking to my economy approach and using what I had available in the garage, various different sizes of timber were used to create a frame that will ensure the chipbaord does not warp. It was well glued and screwed together so shouldn't warp. The cross members are a shallower than the longitudinal pieces, but that reflects the lengths of timber I had laying around. They are positioned away from the points locations, as I was going to use point motors (hence the holes) but will now use wire and tube or just wire.

 

gallery_24698_4156_448342.jpg

 

I also had to widen the baseboard by a couple of centimetres in the scenic section as the viaduct sections that are the ends overhang by about 1cm or so on each side, and I didn't want them getting bashed and breaking up over time. On the front of the board this is the shallow darker coloured strip, whereas on the back I have created a small shelf for the operator, supported by the cross members. I may put a short piece of track or something on there so rolling stock or locos can be put safely there. I am also varnishing it post-build just for completeness. I found that Poundland do smalls tins of gloss yacht varnish and brushes. For this sort of job £3 (for 2 tins and the brush set) is a lot cheaper than buying from B&Q. If I had a yacht (!) I probably wouldn't use it, but the brushes have not had any hairs come out and for £1 appear to be excellent quality! For modelling type activity there is quite a lot of potentially useful DIY stuff in Poundland.

 

gallery_24698_4156_591894.jpg

 

The Metcalfe viaduct sections are designed to join together and to extension pieces that are then joined to scenery. As can be seen in earlier pictures this leave a bare cardboard end facing outwards, which is not great. Using scraps to make supports and modifying the walls from the left over adjoining sections in the kit, I've made this into brickwork. The join is covered with other left over brick sections from the kit, and I am pleased with the result.

 

gallery_24698_4156_1476131.jpg

 

gallery_24698_4156_641685.jpg

 

gallery_24698_4156_1361398.jpg

 

The next task is to fill the short gap between one end of the retaining wall and the station end viaduct. Fortunately Metcalfe provide various spare bits of brick section in their kits, so I have one that matches the retaining wall with its blue engineers brick. Then it will be onto track laying :)

Edited by ruggedpeak
  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
  • RMweb Gold

gallery_24698_4156_100211.jpg

 

Although there haven't been any updates on here for some months, there has been quite a lot of action on the layout. Scenic work stopped and the focus has been on track and electrics.

 

1.5mm cork sheet has been laid across the entire layout, painted with black craft paint. Track has been laid out, checked with the viaducts etc, and then droppers soldered onto every piece, including all ends of the points. Used plumbers flux initially, now learnt that lesson and used IPA to get rid of the corrosion or whatever it is. Proper electronics flux now in use. Learnt quite a bit about soldering, and bought a few replacement bits as well!

 

Wire is a mix of 0.2 from Ebay and 0.1 from Expotools. With no return loops there are no polarity issues, so simple colour coding of black and yellow. Wiring is probably overly complicated (in part due to using proprietary track in short lengths rather than flex so more droppers) but has been designed to allow DC operation using one controller (so only one movement at a time), or full DCC operation.

 

gallery_24698_4156_18753.jpg

 

At the same time I wanted an inexpensive method of point control. A visit to my local model railway emporium and I found Phoenix Precision 0.9mm bras wire in 300mm lengths and Evergreen 3/32" Stripstyrene tube. 300mm is more than adequate for the width of the layout, so I have wire in tube, the tube cut into the cork base. The ends are bent up into the hole in the centre of the point, and the handles are just the brass wire turned into a loop. Simples.

 

gallery_24698_4156_308926.jpg

 

gallery_24698_4156_312802.jpg

 

With track down, holes drilled for droppers I decided to have a running session with various locos from my collection. This threw up some interesting results - the Hornby type points with insulfrogs and tight curves really showed up the good runners from the bad. My Hornby 67's all ran beautifully, as did my Bachmann MPV. However a number of my Bachmann 66's and 40 were not happy bunnies. A 66 and the 40 would both push the front axle off on one bogie when turning off on Hornby points. Another 66 just stalled on the points. The derailing is only a problem in one direction, but not good as locos will come in and then reverse out. Have not had time to investigate further but sadly they did not perform anywhere near as well as other locos :( Something to work on later. However it is clear Bo-Bo’s (Hornby 67 and Dapol 68’s) are by far the best runners on this layout. Which is great as I love both classes J and can run them with DVT’s etc as short sets.

 

What was good news was that the locos that did work properly had no problems did so even without the droppers connected, so power was getting through. Hopefully bodes well for future running. The ultimate test re: power & running will be how my Sentinel and Peckett get on! That's for later.

 

Power is distributed along the lines of the points through switches, so every point has 3 pairs of wires soldered to them. After initially thinking of Peco or Hornby switch levers to switch with the points, I remembered cost was an issue and went for simple two way switches from Rail Room Electronics. 50p each so a lot cheaper than the proprietary levers. I have one isolating section in the main platform, which is controlled by a lit rocker switch which was removed from my Lidl soldering station when it died. Switches are cut into the shelf on the edge of the baseboard. Not elegant but just needs to work.

 

gallery_24698_4156_1610359.jpg

  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...