Junctionmad Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Ive built a number of turnouts now having abandoned the older coper clad approach I once used. I use a soldered V/wing rail and semi functional chairs . its in 00-SF here an early one ( cause I have a photo to hand ) ( never mind that coper clad "magic moving sleeper", thats gone now ) While I find the soldering of the common crossing and the wing rails to the 0.6mm copper shim fiddly, its not the main issues I find I repeatedly have The two that give me most grief are (a) where exactly to place the " knuckle " in the wing rail in relation to the nose . even using a 1mm shim as a gauge, you can still "slide" the wing rail over a considerable distance. is there an easier , more precise way ( other then using the template directly ) to judge where the two go in relation to one another (b) i always find I get a little " tighteness " in the gauge right at the switch blade tips , i.e. the rail gauge binds passing through with one blade or the other pressed against the stock rail. Yes it works and the 00 stock runs beautifully , but I wonder what Im doing wrong here. I find this is consistent over many of my turnouts my build sequence is file V assemble & solder V and wing rails using 1mm shim on two 0.6mm copper shims place completed assembly on template cut up standard chairs to " resemble " the special chairs and glue in place place check rails in place using gauges place the straight stock rail in place file and assemble the curved switch and closure rail gauging from the switch and closure rail , lay curved stock rail ( with correct " set" ) gauge the straight switch and closure rail add tie-bars etc thanks dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold martin_wynne Posted February 14, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 14, 2017 Hi Dave, a) you have probably noticed that Templot now shows the knuckle bend radius by default rather than a sharp knuckle. The actual position of the knuckle isn't too critical, provided 1. the bend angle is not sharper than the crossing angle, and 2. the 1mm flangeway gap is correct at each side of the tip of the vee. The actual geometric centre of the knuckle is now marked between the rails on the template, to answer your actual question. b) it is generally better to fit both stock rails before fitting the switch blades. That way you can measure and check the stock gauge before attempting to fit the switch blades. If the stock gauge is less than the specified figure (usually caused by an insufficient set), it will be almost impossible to fit the switch blades to gauge. More about stock gauge here: http://85a.co.uk/forum/view_topic.php?id=491&forum_id=1 With the stock rails in position, you can keep clipping the switch blade to it as you file it, to check the gauge from the opposite stock rail, until you get the proper gauge dimension. Don't forget the slight bend in the switch blade at the end of the planing. p.s. that turnout looks good. regards, Martin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grovenor Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 This might help The wing rail setting and stock rail setting starts near the bottom of page 1. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold martin_wynne Posted February 14, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 14, 2017 This might help The wing rail setting and stock rail setting starts near the bottom of page 1. Hi Keith, re your note about hand-drawn angles to set the stock rail. Templot will print such angles for you. Just create 9ft-24 and 12ft-32 turnouts, add a bit of approch track, and shorten the template to fit on a single page. I have done that for anyone who wants it, .box file here, just print it: dummy_turnouts_for_set_angles.box regards, Martin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junctionmad Posted February 18, 2017 Author Share Posted February 18, 2017 Thanks Martin , very useful as always. The main reason I haven't placed both stock rails was precisely to avoid creating a pinch point at the blade tips, because you can't gauge the stock rails and therefore you rely on the template , which I try to avoid Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junctionmad Posted February 18, 2017 Author Share Posted February 18, 2017 This might help The wing rail setting and stock rail setting starts near the bottom of page 1. Regards Thanks Keith , I build the commoning crossing , V & wing rails as one piece off the template , soldered to 0.6mm shim. So the method you illustrate doesn't help unfortunately Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grovenor Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 Then you have to extract the principle from the method and use it when doing it your way. The essential is to use two gauges simultaneously for the first wing rail, one can just be a straight edge to keep the running edges in line, the other is the flangeway gap gauge. Using the two gauges there is only one position for the knuckle bend to fit. The second wing rail is harder to gauge but you have the advantage that you know that the two knuckle bends should be adjacent and not staggered. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junctionmad Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 Then you have to extract the principle from the method and use it when doing it your way. The essential is to use two gauges simultaneously for the first wing rail, one can just be a straight edge to keep the running edges in line, the other is the flangeway gap gauge. Using the two gauges there is only one position for the knuckle bend to fit. The second wing rail is harder to gauge but you have the advantage that you know that the two knuckle bends should be adjacent and not staggered. Regards Following your sequence of photos , I still dont see how the knuckle is positioned using gauges. There is nothing to stop the wind rail sliding towards or away from the V. Ive used a 1mm shim ( 00-SF) to set the wing rail distance from the V. However I dont have any stock rail in position to gauge the wing rail. as Im soldering the common crossing on a shim in advance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
roythebus Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 I use a "dummy" running rail soldered to some scrap sleepers, held on the board with Blue-tack or similar. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grovenor Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Following your sequence of photos , I still dont see how the knuckle is positioned using gauges. There is nothing to stop the wind rail sliding towards or away from the V. Ive used a 1mm shim ( 00-SF) to set the wing rail distance from the V. However I dont have any stock rail in position to gauge the wing rail. as Im soldering the common crossing on a shim in advance.The track gauge keeps the running part of the wing rail to gauge and hence lined up with the vee, the flangeway shim determines its position so you silide it to the correct place. The pic showing the first wing rail going in does have the shim in place but I accept its not all that obvious. But its essentially the same setup as here. If building a standalone crossing you can do as Roy suggests and use a temporary stock rail to gauge from, or just use a straightedge to keep the wing and vee in line while you set the flangeway gap. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junctionmad Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 thanks Keith . I think Ill power up my little CNC mill and make a custom gauge to hold all this . The disadvantage of the "shim" method , is everything desolders if you try and attach the wing rails one at a time Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.