Jump to content
 

Phil Mortimer's Workbench - 4mm scale and 7 mm scale - South African Class 91-000's


Recommended Posts

So, it is time I posted a set up a proper workbench page, as i have various other projects on-going, in addition to the garratts currently being assembled http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/111301-mercian-vivian-style-garratt/

 

Whilst I'm taking a few weeks break from the garratts, I've been completing some 4 mm scale narrow gauge South african class 91-000 loco's for my OO9 layout and thought I'd describe the build here. This is a transfer over from another forum and so the build is not as quick as described. Indeed, it got placed on hold for a year or so whilst I fugured out how to proceed.

 

So Here goes...

 

Wed Jul 10, 2013 5:34 pm


I like big powerful locomotives. No offense to anyone, but I'm not into small 0-4-0's or similar. Hence my fascination with garrats and other large locomotives. Continental narrow gauge lines always appealed to me, partly because they were often proper "networks" and partly because of their larger locomotives and rolling stock. However, I always thought that Continental European steam locomotives are generally as ugly as sin (with the exception of the standard gauge French 141R mikado, but those were built in north America anyhow). Many European narrow gauge railways were almost main lines in miniature. Even today, some exist, especially the Swiss meter gauge network and some of the Eastern European railways (Czech, Polish, Former GDR, etc.). For this reason, I'm also fascinated with Colonial narrow gauge systems. It should be remembered that some of the largest African locomotives, the South African GMAM garratts and Class 25 4-8-4's, are actually narrow gauge locomotives (running on 3'6" gauge), even though they are significantly larger (and more modern) than equivalent motive power on UK lines.

Anyhow, on that basis, I thought that Lientwardene needed some powerful diesels. So I'm building a pair of South African Class 91 diesels, again from Worsley Works etches and Hollywood Foundry custom chassis (BullAnt). For those not familiar with these locomotives, some more information can be found here.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South_African_Class_91-000

These locomotives were in fact introduced to replace the NGG 16 garratts on South African 2 ft gauge railways in the 1970's, and were used to haul rock trains, often in multiple. They were built by GE in the USA and are an adaption of a metre gauge export design. They look for all the world like typical North American Hood units, albeit on 2ft gauge track. Since I like powerful hood unit locomotives running in multiple, and I now live in the US, this was attractive to me. Safe to say, it is claimed that they are the largest 2ft gauge diesel electric locomotives in the world. Just the thing for my railway. When seen alongside regular South African narrow gauge locos and rolling stock (such as NGG16's and NG15 mikado's, which them selves are not small), they tower over them. An interesting fact is that when these locomotives were transferred between the various 2ft gauge lines, they would have their bogies exchanged for regular 3'6" bogies and travel along the main cape gauge lines towing behind them a wagon containing their 2ft gauge bogies. After reaching their destination, the bogies would be swapped back again. Some of these locomotives have now been sold out of 2ft gauge service and are now operating regularly on the 3'6" cape gauge lines at colliery's.

So history lesson over, here are photo's showing these units under construction. The early photo's show the frame and cab construction. At this point, the long hood was not yet fitted, as I needed access to the chassis mounting points. I also have N/S etches for the bogie (truck) side-frames, but have yet to fit them. The belt drive can be seen in the pictures and I had to grind out extra space in the nose and at the back to accommodate this. This is why the nose front was not initially affixed. It should be noted that with testing, the chassis as supplied were geared a little high for my taste, and I adjusted the gearing to give a lower maximum speed with greater grunt by replacing the 6mm diameter load pulley on the bogie lay shaft with a 9mm diameter one. The completed locomotives will not be slavish copies of actual South African loco's, but will freelance for my railway. (The back story is that two additional units were tacked onto the end of the South African order for use on my railway for moving gravel trains). I intend to fit these with DCC light and sound and they will have a green livery, not unlike the BR class 20's in the early BR green livery. They will be used for stone trains, hopefully using Boston Largs works DZ hoppers. Since the units will work in a consist, they will probably be electrically wired together giving 16 wheel pickup and 16 wheel drive! But probably with individual DCC chips in each units. We'll see if this works out!

37854764072_4535d33352_c.jpgIMG_0141 by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr
 
37885822321_dd2373c1fc_c.jpgIMG_0143 by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr
 
37885822231_b30daae3e4_c.jpgIMG_0147 by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr
 
37854763902_77928f46ba_c.jpgIMG_0145 by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr
 
37885822221_81d7aabf14_c.jpgIMG_0149 by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr
 
37885822391_2d83b92848_c.jpgIMG_0152 by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr
 
37885822161_beb1bf7dfa_c.jpgIMG_0153 by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr
 
37885822101_a5a4652881_c.jpgIMG_0155 by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr
 

Pictures of a completed model by Ian Turner can be found at the Worsley Works website (Using a different chassis).

http://www.worsleyworks.co.uk/Image-Pages/Image_NG_SA_91.htm
Edited by PhilMortimer
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, It is now mid July 2013 and these loco's had little work done on them for almost a year, due to completion of work on the house, as well as completing the funkey diesels and other items. However, in July'13, I made a concertaed effort to get on with these loco's.

First up was completion of the nose. This frankly had been worrying me for ages and was probably one of the reasons for the pause in work on these locomotives. For anyone who has not built a Worsley works etched kit, what you get is a set of flat etches that are aids to building a model. There are no location aids. For the case of the nose of these locomotives, this made for two problems. The first was practical - how to hold the nose etch in place whilst soldering it to the outer wrapper. The other was more aesthetics. These locomotives do not have sharp corners between the sides and ends of the long and short hoods. Instead, the edges are rounded., Whilst not a major feature, if one just soldered the end to the side, in my view the resulting sharp corner would look wrong. (This can be seen in the test etch reviewed by Continental modeller). It took me a while to work out how to replicate this.

When I built the front noses, the ends were used as a former to shape the wrapper. The end is actually a double thickness of laminated brass. I hit upon the idea of soldering some wire to the front laminate, which would provide a rounded edge. When attached to the nose, it also provided a minuscule locating step that allowed the front to be positively located and retained in the nose wrapper whilst permanently fixing to the loco body. This may sound complicated, but hopefully the pictures below will explain it all.

35250747730_e71bb42aa5_b.jpgCl91 Nose 1 by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr

 

37885822101_a5a4652881_b.jpgIMG_0155 by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr

Class 91 front with the nose front plate missing. Note the belt drive mechanism vissible in the nose and cab. Also note the tarnishing - these locomotives were properly cleaned when last worked on, but obviously, did not take kindly to the humid conditions. Once completed, this will all be cleaned up with pickling and a burnishing brush.


34828673173_1138b5d517_b.jpgCl91 Nose 4 by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr

16 thou wire being soldered to the nose front laminate. This was done by placing the laminated etched front face down on a piece of glass and then soldering a piece of pre-tinned 16-thou brass wire to it. The wire was annealed by running it through a candle flame to make it easier to bend around the corners. The etch was clamped down onto the glass using a small clamp and wooden coffee stirrers and soldering was started by soldering at the top. My soldering iron has a long diamond style tip and just placing this against the wire, which in turn was held against the etch, allowed the solder to flow and bond the wire to the etch. once attached, the soldered wire was held in place with a coffee stirrer, and the soldering iron pulled around the corner and down one side, followed by the coffee stirrer, to hold everything tight whilst it cooled. the second side as done in the same manner. With plenty of flux, the solder ran in to fill the gap and once cleaned up, gave a rounded edge to the nose. BTW, the number scrawled on the back of the etch is to identify which nose front goes on which loco!


35598248086_f819357766_b.jpgCl91 Nose 3 by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr

Rear of nose etches. The one with the wire surround is on the left, the one on the right is yet to be done. The small step where the wire is soldered can be seen. The small pieces of brass angle were an earlier attempt at adding fixing points, which although ultimately not needed, were left in situ.


34828673123_b2b0b48f49_b.jpgCl91 Nose 2 by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr

Front of nose. Again, the one with the added wire surround is on the left.


35250747770_9f69048f85_b.jpgCl91 Nose w front plate by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr

Nose front soldered to loco body - doesen't show too well, but best one I have of it at the moment. The edges were tidied up with files and jewelers polishing paper. Various etched panels and grills were then added to the top, sides and front, along with lifting hooks. These were all attached with the RSU, making for a much cleaner soldering job.


35598248146_b686ab3110_b.jpgCl91 Nose w front handrails by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr

Cab nose with thick (32 thou) brass wire grab rails added (to enable the little people to climb up form the ground to the footplate. Also added is a 16 thou brass wire grab handle at the front of the top plate. Again, these were added using Carrs 188 degree solder paint and the RSU.

The cab fronts on both loco's were completed as described, complete with hand rails, etc.

37166062743_6a136b78be_b.jpgIMG_0185 by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr

 

37166062163_f4c1cd0b20_b.jpgIMG_0187 by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr

Finally, I started adding the long hood to the first of the pair. The hood is carefully bent up to shape after annealing on the stove top for 10 mins and then allowing to cool. After cleaning up, it was bent to shape. The shape is actually quite difficult as there is a subtle curve to the roof, which then leads into the sharper radii curves on the top corners (bent around some rod). Again some solder paint was used to tack the body into place using my big iron, and then run along the seam to finish the job. The hood actually has some locating slots at the bottom and a half-etched slot in the foot plate aids alignment. Unfortunately, the tabs and slots did not line up and so they were removed, and the hood held in the half etch whilst soldering in place. I did one side at a time. This may have actually been a bit of a problem as the expansion and contraction gave the footplate a slight twist that needed correcting (done - not too difficult a remedy, but embarrassing). I should have tacked both sides in place and then run the seam. Still, I will remember for the next one...... The hood was held to the body with my fingers and some more coffee stirrers whilst soldering - it was the best way of getting everything in position. I haven't yet been able to solder the hood to the back of the cab, as at this point, my soldering iron died. since it is at least 15 years old, it doesn't owe me anything. But annoying anyhow. So work has paused again whilst I await delivery of my new one (I've ordered a 75W version this time - plenty of power to deal with large lumps of brass). Still, at least this one will be from North America and I won't have to hunt around for my 240-110V converter everytime I want to solder. I guess whilst I'm awaiting deliverey, I'll be going back to the NA - the 30W one is just not man enough for brass loco's this big.

More to follow as I progress.

 


Mon Jul 15, 2013 10:12 am

These loco's are rather big. Indeed, not only are they big in real life, but also in model form - the large amount of brass meant I had to get the butane torch out for some solder work yesterday. Still waiting for the new soldering iron and the one I have just can't cope with all that brass sucking the heat away.

Spent some of yesterday straightening out the frame twist and also adjusting the fit of the long hood on one side. I'm happy with it now, but it was actually quite difficult to get to fit properly (another sign that this is a scratch-aid model, not a real kit). Hope to get the long hood end fitted tonight, but need to do some modifications to it first. Then onto the second loco.

They should be nice models when i've finished them, especially when running as a pair.

Cheers,

P
Edited by PhilMortimer
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Tue Jul 16, 2013 6:39 pm

So, here in Maryland, it is rather warm at the moment. Right now the mercury is hovering around 97 degrees and the humidity is high. it has been like this since the weekend and basically means that it is WAY too hot to go and do garden work right now. Inside is good and so I get to progress with the models.

 

Last night, I added the rear to the hood of the first 91. This was similar to adding the nose front, except that the rear piece was just one etch thickness, not two pieces laminated together. This meant that I couldn't add the thin wire step as before. Instead, I soldered a thick piece of (annealed) brass wire around the edge of the back of the etched piece. This was then mounted in the gap in rear of the hood, with the thick wire providing a friction fit within the rear hood interior. Once tack soldered into place, the piece was seam soldered properly into place and then the edges rounded off with a file to provide the characteristic rounded corners. I think I've filed the top corners a little too flat and may need to build them up with some solder. Pictures below show the finished work.

 

34828673303_89990d2092_b.jpgCl91 Rear 4 by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr

 

37166062463_322f15fdd4_b.jpgIMG_0189 by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr

 

Now I have to repeat all of this work on the second one!

 

Major pieces still to be added are additional roof panels and the auxilliary cabinet on the left hand side, along with the rear hand rails. Then on to detailing. One thing I have decided to forgo is adding the hinges to the panels on this loco. I did add these to the Funkey diesels, but on this loco they are much smaller and I would need many more of them (I calculated that would need to solder on in excess of 40 for each loco). This would probably put me in to my dotage and as likely drive me crazy in the process. Since the hinges are so small on the real loco, I think they can be omitted, as they would probably be over scale anyhow. My excuse is that when these particular loco's were built, a new design of interior mounted hinge was used instead, due to the exterior ones rusting badly in the British "liquid sunshine". This happens to be true, as the door hinges on my landrover are of the exterior type and they weep rust streaks down the body side.

 

Cheers,

 

P

 

Wed Jul 24, 2013 11:35 am

Long hood soldered on to the second unit last night. Took a while, as I had difficulty making sure the panels were all straight and not wavy. But got there eventually. Still need to do the hood end plate. But progress none-the less.

Edited by PhilMortimer
Link to post
Share on other sites

Picture below shows end on view down the length of the hood, thorough the open end before the end panel was soldered on to complete the hood structure.

37854896222_3ee08ec7b7_b.jpgIMG_0193 by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr


As can be seen there is plenty of space for the mechanism, and also for a sound-chip and speaker. I'm going to have some (audible) fun with this pair of loco's!

Hope to get the back panel on the hood tonight, but have to shift a load of wood from the drive first - the weather has cooled off a bit and the woodpile is in the way!

Thu Jul 25, 2013 11:27 am
So the wood pile did NOT get shifted last night, but the back panel of the long hood on the 91 was soldered in situ.

(For those of you who don't understand this issue of the wood pile, we live out in a rural are north of Baltimore. We use a wood burner as a major heat source in the winter, partly becuase it is nice to have and is very efficient (and MUCH cheaper than heating oil), but also we lose power at the drop of a hat. I think I counted the power being out for more than an hour at least 30 times last year. Therefore, without electricity, we cannot run the furnace in the winter when it gets COLD. (We also cant run the well pump for water when the power is out, but that is another story......). The wood stove is a nice backup because it provides heat and you can actually cook on it when the power is out. And it keeps me fit when I get to go and chop and stack wood and bring it in. The reason there is a large pile of wood in the drive at the moment, is that we had a delivery of wood last week that was dropped off when we weren't present. And it is sitting in the middle of the driveway, which makes getting in and out of the house difficult. Ergo, we have to move and stack it. But this is NOT something you want to do when it is nearly 100 degrees and high humidity! So it has sat there longer than expected. It is much cooler and not so humid today, so maybe it will get moved after work tonight. I swear it's getting bigger every time I look at it).

But I digress.

The rear panel had a copper wire insert soldered to it's inside, following the shape of the panel as described in an earlier post. For some reason, the supposedly softer copper wire was actually harder to bend to shape than the brass wire used previously. I used copper as I'd run out of thick brass wire. The result is shown below

24033951098_fe996cbaaa_b.jpgIMG_0194 by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr

The panel was then inserted in the gap at the back with the copper wire holding the panel in position with a friction fit to the external shell. Once correctly aligned, the panel was tack soldered into position. After checking that all was well, plenty of solder was run into all the seams to fill any gaps and then the edges were rounded off with a file. I still need to do a bit more cleaning up of this and maybe a bit more rounding off of the edges, but it was getting late. But the hoods are now complete on both loco's, which is a big stage and had been worrying me for a while (hence the procrastination). They are also structurally much stronger now, with the major box shaped superstructure being completed.

There is still a fair amount of work to do on these loco's, but they may have to go back on the back-burner for a while, as I need to get my finger out and get on with the NA. I seems to have given myself a deadline with that loco.

Cheers,

P

Edited by PhilMortimer
Link to post
Share on other sites

I have temporarily placed the work on the garratts  http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/111301-mercian-vivian-style-garratt/?p=2602152 on hold for a short while whilst i figure out how to proceed next. In the meantime, I have re-started work on the class 91's. These have been on hold for a while, due to me not being able to figure out how to overcome a couple of problems, namely fitting the door hinges and fabricating the bogie sideframes. Well, after a couple of years, I've finally figured out how to do it. Firstly, the door hinges are going to be made of 16 thou brass wire. I pretinned a length of wire and then proceeded to snip it into 1.5mm lengths using a piece of 60thou plasticard with a hole drilled through it as a gauge to get them all the same length. This took a supprisingly short time to do and was quite theraputic. These will be soldered on with the RSU.

The bogies were a different proposition. I obtained the etched brass versions from Worsley works, but they didn't appear right. They also clashed with the loco underframe, restricting the rotation of the bogies. However, after looking at photo's and drawings of the real thing, it appears that the etches are incorrect, being too deep. So they have been lowered by extending the bogie frame between the axle boxes and sanding off the top part of the frame a corresponding amount. They now look much closer to the real thing, but need some of the sharp corners rounding off. They also now fit to the chassis without hitting the bodywork, meaning they can pivot - always a good thing with a bogie locomotive!

Pictures to follow. I hope to get the bodywork sonicated, cleaned and rinsed off tonight after work, ready to start work on finishing the body work on these loco's in teh near future.

Edited by PhilMortimer
Link to post
Share on other sites

Wed Feb 08, 2017 1:17 pm

Well, I started on fitting the hinges to the bodyshells. Not too bad, just a bit fiddly to line up then a quick zap with the RSU. The hinges are formed from 16thou brass wire that was pretinned with solder smeared along it, then chopped into 1.5mm lengths. I'm glad I made extra, as quite a number pinged off into the abyss, never to be found again. The rows for each side of each bodyshell were laid out with a pair of dividers, and the extremities if each row added. Now I can use a straight edge to lay put the remainder, which should speed things up a bit. About 3 hours worth of work last night. I expect it will take several more sessions to complete installation of all the hinges. No photo's to show as it's not very photogenic work.

Below is a picture of the bogie frames as they were undergoing modification. The top 6 show the modifiued ones, with the extra depth grafted on below the bogie frame. the lower two have yet to be modified. All eight bogie frames subsequently had the top of the frames reduced in height. Corners still need rounding off and details tidying up.

35598248026_3e21ebbe30_b.jpg. by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr
 
 
 
 

Thu Feb 09, 2017 12:51 pm

Another 32 hinges added last night. It's quite theraputic actually. Top and bottom of long doors done on both sides of both units. Now just need the middle hinges added. End doors and cab doors have top and bottom hinges in place. Again, just the middle ones to add. The RSU is definitely the tool for this job. Probabaly a couple more days work to finish fitting the hinges.
Edited by PhilMortimer
Link to post
Share on other sites

Mon Feb 13, 2017 12:07 pm

Some absolubtly foul weather on Sunday allowed me to press on with the Cl 91's. The remainder of the hinges were added to the main bodyshell, almost completing that process, which was a major mental hurdle and part of the reason for why the work on these loco's was dormant for such a long time. There are still a few to add to the auxilliary cabinet on the second man's side of the longhood, but this has yet to be assembled or fitted. So far I calculate that I've added over 130 individual hinges to the two loco's - some what theraputic, but I'm glad it's done! By the time the auxilliary cabinets are added, it will be closer to 150!,

The surrounds to the radiator side grills were added. These were tricky, being very thin half etched pieces and care had to be taken to ensure they didn't distort from the heat whilst soldering. The surrounds were pre-tinned and then solderedin in place with the RSU. The picture below shows the work in progress. The LH loco has had the surrounds fitted, whilst the RH one is waiting for them to be done. The surrounds are lying in front of the two loco's, with one the correct way up and the other showing the tinned rear. The ones fitted to the LH loco are hard to see, but present.

35507127631_5ebb102538_b.jpg. by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr

Finally, the roof hatches were added. After adding these, I came across some detail photo's of the real things and decided that the hatches as supplied are incorrect, so theu will have to come off and be modified this evening. Damn! There are also a couple of additional panels which are not marked on the etch that need fitting, so these will have to be made. Finally, I need to find some fine brass mesh to make the top radiator grill.

 

 

 

Tue Feb 14, 2017 1:16 pm

Roof Panels amended last night to be more representative of the real thing.

34828673363_3e1fb4c3a1_b.jpg. by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr

The exhaust holes will be drilled out and possibly have some tube inserted, as they rise slightly above the panel surface on the real things. The top of the radiator section will have some mesh added to it in due course, but this is currently on order. The real thing has some chicken-wire like material just covering a big hole in the top of the rad cover (see http://www.sa-transport.co.za/train_modellers/ngloco/91/91_roof%20(1).JPG, which is going to be difficult to replicate. I may just modify the mesh slightly and have it sitting on the surface of the rad panel, as these loco's are supposed to be add-on's to the original SA order and so some minor differences could be expected. The lines for the rad panel top were scored into the body as they were missing on the etches.

Also note the multitide of lifting eyes dotted all over the loco roofs. Which means that I'll have to find some way of fabricating these........ Detail items such as the exhaust stack, radiator header tank filler, eetc, will be added later.

One thing I've noted from studying the photo's http://www.sa-transport.co.za/train_modellers/ngloco/91.html is that many of the panels are quite battered, worn and don't always fit together as well as we modellers try to make them appear. Sometimes I think we try to make our models TOO perfect!
 
 
 

Thu Feb 16, 2017 1:06 pm

A few more panels added to the rad section lastnight. These were not on the original etches. The long ones can be seen here http://www.sa-transport.co.za/train_modellers/ngloco/91/91-013%20(2).JPG between the lower radiator grills and the hand rail on the side of the loco. On the end of the loco, are two small rectangular / square panels either side of the end door (as seen herehttp://www.sa-transport.co.za/train_modellers/ngloco/91/91-013%20(1).JPG). These panels were cut from 2thou brass foil and soldered to the bodywork. I didn't emboss the bolt heads, as they were so close to the edges, they distorted the sheet. I doubt anyone will really notice they are there anyhow. No photo's, since it is basically showing brass on brass - difficult to photograph!

Tonight's task is to cut out the rear sandbox filler hatches. These are come as etched grills on the etch, which is incorrect.

Moving along nicely now.
Edited by PhilMortimer
Link to post
Share on other sites

Wed Feb 22, 2017 2:34 pm

The rear sand filler recesses were drilled out and then filed square, using various files. Looking at pictures of the real loco's, it appears that the recesses are a bit too large - this is going to have to be one of those modernisations that was enacted for my particular variants of the class, as i'm not sure how to rectify the issue. Should have checked the photo's first! After filing out the apertures, these were internally boxed in using some strip and angle sheet, and then soldered to the inside of the shell. The soldering is not particularly tidy, but it will do and is hidden inside the bodywork. I will probably add the sand filler caps at some point, but may break down and do these in plastic!

Also added were the rear hand rail grabs, bent up from 32 thou brass wire and soldered into place. A basic jig was made to ensure they were all fixed at the same height, and some singed fingures ensured that they were held at the correct verticle whilst soldering. Again, this was done with the RSU and solder cream. If one looks at the real things, some of them are a bit wonky, possibly from some rough shunts

So here we are

First up - the boxed in sand filler recesses in the rear body work, and the rear grab rails.

35598248326_f604eb1c54_b.jpg. by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr

And also a broadside shot showing the bodywork with all the hinges and rear grab rails added.

35507127691_d83d6da718_b.jpg. by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr

Tonight I am under orders to tidy my work bench, but I hope to get the auxilliary cabinets made ready for attachment to the bodywork.
Edited by PhilMortimer
Link to post
Share on other sites

And that is where we are up to with this right now. I hope to get the bodywork finished next week, as my garratt Mojo has returned and i want to get back to it. Still need to attach the auxilliary cabinets (and hinges!), the top Rad mesh, air and vac pipes to the front and rear pilots, the long hood grabrails and the headlamp surrounds, before cleaning, priming and painting. The chassis is almost complete, but I still have to add the fuel tanks and the bogie side frames (need finishing off, along with various details). However, I'm starting to see the end now.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

And that is where we are up to with this right now. I hope to get the bodywork finished next week, as my garratt Mojo has returned and i want to get back to it. Still need to attach the auxilliary cabinets (and hinges!), the top Rad mesh, air and vac pipes to the front and rear pilots, the long hood grabrails and the headlamp surrounds, before cleaning, priming and painting. The chassis is almost complete, but I still have to add the fuel tanks and the bogie side frames (need finishing off, along with various details). However, I'm starting to see the end now.

 

Hi Phil,

 

Excellent work here!

 

South African Railways are one of my 'overseas' interests, more the steam era rather than the diesel/electric though.  Have many books and articles stashed and have always fancied doing SN3.5 (s-scale on HO /16.5mm track) -- a project for my retirement though, I think.

 

Keep up the good work.

 

 

Steve

Link to post
Share on other sites

Steve,

 

Many Thanks for the kind words.

 

My OO9 layout has a couple of NGG16's,from Backwoods Miniatures, with a few more to go. I also have a Victorian Railways G class garratt awaiting build, K1 (almost complete), a victorian Railways NA, Russell and two modified Funkeys (aka Vale of Carnarfon). There are e few others in the pipeline. I like BIG narrow gauage! The Cl 91's fit that theme and as i said, they also look very North American. indeed, they look a little odd tottering along on their 2 ft gauge tracks - I wonder how they don't roll over (well, some have!)

 

Cheers,

 

PM

Link to post
Share on other sites

Phil, most interesting projects you have there.  Like Steve I rather like things South African though when I had the chance I was never able to take advantage of the Blue Train or its lesser offerings (two Texan friends spent their honeymoon on the Blue Train, the husband even got a cab ride for part of the journey).  This was all back in the late 1990s, I imagine some things will have changed a lot since then.

 

Paul

Link to post
Share on other sites

The Auxilliary cabinet was added to the Second Man's side of the long hood last night. This was a single piece fold up etch, with a small triangular infill piece that was a right PITA to fit, due to theur being no location aids and it being so damned small. A small amount of filing was required to get the cabinet to sit down on the running plate, but after some tweaks, all fitted OK. The cabinets were fitted to both locomotives, though only one is pictured. I had to remove and refit the cabinet on one loco due to a poor fit that needed some fettling.

The door hinges still need adding, but that is a job for this evening.

35250747900_5ebb102538_b.jpg. by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr

I have now started what I consider the last major bodywork of these loco's - teh upper radiator panel. This is non-existent on the etchings and needs some mesh. I have trial cut some mesh and will work on installing it tonight, to see how it looks.
 

Edited by PhilMortimer
  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Started adding the surrounds for the upper rad mesh last night. Took a lot longer than expected to add 4 brass wires to the bodywork (two for each loco). This was because there were no witness marks on where to add them and it took a while to work out. the clean up took a while as well. The longtidudinal strips have now been added and the crosswise ones will be added to night. The actual mesh may actually be added after painting, by gluing. I also took the opportunity to build up the rear corners of the hood with solder and sand them back to a more appropriate shape (they were sanded a little too much at the original shaping).

No pictures today I'm afraid.

Question. Does anyone know how wide the bogie frames were on these loco's? These loco's had specially designed power bogies and I've been trying to get an idea of the relative relationship of the bogie frames positioning with respect to the bodywork. The SA locomotive page for these loco's http://www.sa-transport.co.za/trains/narrow-gauge/ng_info_pictures/diesel.htmlhas been helpful, but i still have not fully solved the problem.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Started adding the surrounds for the upper rad mesh last night. Took a lot longer than expected to add 4 brass wires to the bodywork (two for each loco). This was because there were no witness marks on where to add them and it took a while to work out. the clean up took a while as well. The longtidudinal strips have now been added and the crosswise ones will be added to night. The actual mesh may actually be added after painting, by gluing. I also took the opportunity to build up the rear corners of the hood with solder and sand them back to a more appropriate shape (they were sanded a little too much at the original shaping).

 

No pictures today I'm afraid.

 

Question. Does anyone know how wide the bogie frames were on these loco's? These loco's had specially designed power bogies and I've been trying to get an idea of the relative relationship of the bogie frames positioning with respect to the bodywork. The SA locomotive page for these loco's http://www.sa-transport.co.za/trains/narrow-gauge/ng_info_pictures/diesel.htmlhas been helpful, but i still have not fully solved the problem.

 

Wish I could help with the bogies, but my 'modern era' SAR stuff is a little sparse.

 

Presumably (on the same website you mention) , you have seen these;

 

http://www.sa-transport.co.za/train_modellers/ngloco/91.html

 

 

...and this, which might help with scaling (from photos);

 

http://www.sa-transport.co.za/trains/narrow-gauge/ng_info_pictures/91-000.gif

 

 

Steve

Edited by steveNCB7754
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Steve,

 

Yes, thanks for the links. I've had a good look at these, but am still trying to definitively sort the relationship between the width of the loco body and the bogie frames. These bogies were specially designed for these loco's and are part of it's charachter. One thing in looking at all the pictures of the underside of the loco's is I've notced how much additional detail clutter (pipework, etc) I need to add to the underbody!

 

Anyhow, I finished up fitting the upper rad surrounds last night, and also drilled out the air hose holes on the pilots.

Will finish the hinges tonight.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think I am done with hinges thank goodness. Added the 6 each to the auxilliary cabinet, then 1 each to the 2 sandpot fillercaps on the nose top and one to the water tank header filler on the top of the rear hood. the rear ones still need making and installing. Thevarious filler caps made from brass strip turned down to the correct size whilst soldered to 3/32" brass rod mounted in a drill, using a file. Quick and dirty, but it works.

The bufferbeams have been drilled out in preperation for adding the various hoses and the knuckle pin release handle. Not picruresque, but nessecary. Did some remedial work to tidy up some items that needed tweaking. Basically, just doing the final detailing now, (headlights, brackets, etc) then will add the hood handholds and prep for paininting.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Still fabricating and fitting details to the body shells. Fitted the MU plug panel on the bufferbeams and the first of the MS sockets. The rear sandpot fillers have been fitted in the recesses (without hinges - not enough pace to get the soldering iron in). Infortunately, one of the recesses desoldered and had to be refitted - a very awkward job. It's OK, but I'm not totally happy with it and it may need a bit more tweaking tonight. By the end of re-fitting it last night, i was ready to launch the whole loco across the room - time to stop!

Since these are scratch aid kits, I first have to fabricate all the detail bits before attaching them, which is somewhat time consuming!

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

So I decided I couldn't live with the rear sand box inset as it was and removed it, cleaned it up and refitted it. That short sentance required about an hour and a half of my life, due to the difficulty in getting the blasted thing in position, holding it there and tack soldering it from the inside. All in a small space. Eventually, it cma edown to wrapping some tissue around my finger, then using that to hold the thing in possition and tack solder it from the outside using 100 degree solder. Everything slotted into position and was held in place with the finger whilst the solder cooled and soliidified, and the finger was singed. Still, one just had to grin and bear it. the recess was then secured by blobbing in some extra solder from inside the body to make it REALLY secure. finally, the sandpot cover that started all of this was soldered into place with the RSU and a smear of 100 degree solder on the underside, whilst holding the inset secure with the already singed finger so it didn't come adrift again.

So I'm now where I want to be after 2 evenings work! Back to finishing the bufferbeam and underbody details now.

 

I want to get this done and finished now, as i want to get back to the garratts.

Edited by PhilMortimer
Link to post
Share on other sites

Lots of little details being done at the moment. Spent a while last night making up the various air and vacuum hoses than hang off the front and rear bufferbeams. Still need to add the hose wire reinforcement. Also, fabricated the knuckle coupler pin lift, which is awaiting attachment.

 

Still plugging on.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Air hoses completed last night. 10thou brass wire was wrapped around a 32thou core to form a tight spring, then the spring slid on to the pre-formed hose cores. The top of the hose close to the swan-neck was coated in flux and a drop of solder added and allowed to melt and flow through the hose by cappilliary action. The coil was cut off at the bottom of the hose and this was soldered to the core in the same way. The whole hose was then coated in flux and some additional solder added to secure everything. Job done, now repeat 7 more times! The hoses will be a bit representational, but will suffice. They have been stored in a safe place along with the knuckle coulpler cut bars, ready to affix to the buffer beams.

Photo's to follow.

Edited by PhilMortimer
  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Time for an update.

I've been working on bufferbeam / pilot details. Since these loco's are North American in origin, they have many features of Aorth American hood diesels, such as knuckle couplers, Coupler lift bars, MU sockets, etc. These have been manufactured from scratch.

First up, the coupler lift bars. These allow the crew to pull the knucle locking pin from the side of the loco without having to go between the train, for safety. They are a nice detail on the pilots (technicaly these loco's have pilots rather than bufferbeams, as they don't have buffers!)

First bend a lenth of 16thou brass wire to shape to get the central lift section.

35598248356_4f0e7d6e06_b.jpg. by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr

Then thread 4 Alan Gibson medium handrail knobs onto the wire (Bottom of picture). After threading, snip off the lower part of the hand rail knob to leave just the ball and a stub (Top of picture)
 

35507127741_5ebb102538_b.jpg. by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr

The handrail knobs are snipped off so that they can be inserted into 36thou holes drilled in the pilot. This gives a close mounting of the liftbar to the pilot.

One inserted, they are soldered from the back, holding the knobs and lift bar in place.

 

35250747930_5ebb102538_b.jpg. by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr

 

The ends of the wire are then cut short to the correct length and folded to the correct shape using pliers to form the lift handles on the end.

35598248376_e0a7a8bfbd_b.jpg. by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr


The vacuum / air hoses are made from 32thou brass wire, bent to shape and surrounded by tight coil of 10 thou brass wire to form the flexible hose.

The flex hose is made by tightly wrapping 10 thou brass wire around a straight core of 32 thou wire to form a "spring"

34828673473_5ebb102538_b.jpg. by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr

This is then fed onto the bent core of the vac pipes.

35598248416_4a2712b716_b.jpg. by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr

The spring is soldered to the core at the top of the swanneck, then compressed onto the core and soldered at the bottom. The excess is then cur off and the "hose" smeared with plenty of flux and using a hot iron, soldered is allowed to flow through and coat the spring, to form the hose. The picture below shows eight completed hose connections readuy for installation.

34828673583_5ebb102538_b.jpg. by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr

The hose connections and pipes were then installed into holes drilled into the pilot beam and solderd solid from the rear. The excess at the rear was then snipped off. I had trouble clamping the hoses in position for soldering and eventually held them in position whilst soldering using Carrs 179 degree solder cream and the RSU. When the hose got hot enough to singe my finger, the heat was removed. Simple and effective

So we end up with this.

35507127891_1845165c59_b.jpg. by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr

There is one more hose to be made and added to the lower RH side of each pilot - this will be done over the next day or so.

All of this is a bit representational, as are the MU connections in the top center of the pilot. At a distance it should look fine. The hose pipes on the loco rear are a bit wider than they should be, due to the fact that I want to allow electrical MU plugs to allow electrucal jumpers between the two loco's for current and DCC control signals. This will give 16 wheel pickup when they are operated as a pair back-to-back.

Now working on the coupler boxes, which are etched a bit wide, and the headlamp surrounds.

Edited by PhilMortimer
Link to post
Share on other sites

Nothing very special done last night, but time consuming and essential all the same. I added coupler boxes ready to take the knuckle couplers finished. These were made out of 1/4" x 3/32" square tube, cut to length and with a hole drilled in the approriate place. These were then soldered to the existing beam on the pilot, which consists of an inverted piece of L shaped brass and a nut underneath. The reason for using the box section to hold the knuckle, is that it allows the use of couplers that have centereing whiskers (such as Backmann EZ mate or Mchenry couplers) to be fitted and have the couplers self-center. This makes coupling up so much easier. I might use the same method on the Kitson Meyer, which at the moment has free-swinging couplers.

Now I still need to find someway of disguising the bloody great oversized slot etched in the pilot beam. More pondering to be done.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...