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Hornby Inter-City 125 Upgrade


regme
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Hi

 

I have this Hornby Inter-City 125 (DC) that I want to chip to DCC, however it's not running that well on DC is there anything I can do to make it run better? 

 

I runs ok by itself but when I put another loco on the track with the same power supply it slows right down to the point of stopping even if the controller is set to full.

 

Cheers

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Hi

 

I have this Hornby Inter-City 125 (DC) that I want to chip to DCC, however it's not running that well on DC is there anything I can do to make it run better? 

 

I runs ok by itself but when I put another loco on the track with the same power supply it slows right down to the point of stopping even if the controller is set to full.

 

Cheers

what make and model is your DC controller?

 

Andi

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Hi

 

I have this Hornby Inter-City 125 (DC) that I want to chip to DCC, however it's not running that well on DC is there anything I can do to make it run better? 

 

I runs ok by itself but when I put another loco on the track with the same power supply it slows right down to the point of stopping even if the controller is set to full.

 

Cheers

Sounds like it could use a service, clean the commutator maybe new brushes and springs?  Oil everything, remove the dog hair from the axles and fluff from the magnet, usual stuff.  In accordance with LMS and LNER practice I religiously forget to service mine until they actually stop running in a cloud of blue smoke. 

 

However the power unit seems a bit lame at 0.75 amps, and it is depressingly common for one loco to go like a bat out of hell and another just creep when double heading using resistance controllers which I assume the Hornby is, and some 1990s era electronic feedback controllers.  Its something you can keep on top of by pairing locos to double head with, but the cure is something like a Morley if you stay DC or obviously DCC will give a lot more amps which may improve things short term but if you don't sort the underlying problem it may equally cause the motor to overheat and fail completely.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

I've used Bullant, Black Beetle and High-Level's Lo Rider in DMUs and I'd say the Lo Rider was the pick of the bunch for slow and smooth running but it would need a bit of carving to get it in, not to mention putting together.

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Thanks I'll check those out, also found out you can use a motor from a CD drive and change out the whole thing.

The CD drive motor fits the Lima derived chassis with a ring magnet while the one in the photo is the old 1980s Hornby variety.  I have several Lima chassis with CD motors but I have not managed to fit a CD motor to a Hornby chassis, sleeving the drive gear to suit would be a challenge as would grinding enough off the motor housing to fit the CD motor.   My son's Hornby HST goes like a rocket so maybe it just needs a service

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I found I couldn't get a CD motor into a Co-Co ringfield motor as the intermediate gear train shaft bearing was in the way of the cd motor case.

 

Grind off the shaft bearing stub and the gear shaft won't locate firmly enough to work.

 

Grind out the cd motor casing and you destroy the rubber magnet and jam up the armature.

 

Gave up on that ringfield motor housing conversion.

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The Lima 4 wheel chassis just needs a CD motor, a bit of plasticard with 3 holes, 2 screw holes and a big one for the rear bearing bulge on the motor and a scalexric drive pinion.  6 wheel need a slim motor or the centre wheels foul.

 

I might have another go at a Hornby chassis using Mersey507003's methods later, instead of trying to fit a Triang Dock shunter chassis to a Airfix / Kitmaster City of Truro (yes seriously)

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Is it worthwhile upgrading to the later 5 pole Hornby ringfield? It is what i did in mine, and the motor only got replaced since it was completely worn out rather than poor running. Must have spent hundreds of hours whizzing round at top speed on a kids trainset somewhere!

Edited by Titan
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Thanks for the ideas.  I think that this HST is very old as there are no lights in the power cab.  So I found this directional lighting from Black Cat Technology.  So I'll need two decoders (one in the dummy car).  Has anyone tried other options for lighting?

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Thanks for the ideas. I think that this HST is very old as there are no lights in the power cab. So I found this directional lighting from Black Cat Technology. So I'll need two decoders (one in the dummy car). Has anyone tried other options for lighting?

I have used Express Models lighting kits and also scratchbuilt diesel lighting from components, using both small diameter leds and SMD leds.

A large variation in cost between kits and components of course.

Edited by RAFHAAA96
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Thanks for the ideas.  I think that this HST is very old as there are no lights in the power cab.  So I found this directional lighting from Black Cat Technology.  So I'll need two decoders (one in the dummy car).  Has anyone tried other options for lighting?

 

The HST had working lights right from the start. If they are missing they may have been removed.

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Thanks for the picks, it gives me a better idea.

 

From my pic in post #6 there is a white wire I'm not sure why it is there, from the service sheets there is nothing that shows that same connection so I guess I can remove it. 

 

Also just to get it clear in my head on how the motor works, the power comes from the left side of the front bogie onto the motor, through the capacitor and out through the wheels on the right (I might have my lefts and rights mixed up).  The small capacitor, I would think it acts like those "stay-alives" that come with a DCC decoder?

 

What's the best way to pull the wheels off the motor in order to remove the plate to get access to the armature?

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Thanks for that, as this is going to be my first conversion, both for the motor and DCC, I want to make sure all my ducks are in a row, as I know I can end up in s*** creek very quickly.

 

Now all I have to do is stop the wagons derailing on the points and crossings then I'm set, but that's another story.

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