regme Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 Hi I have this Hornby Inter-City 125 (DC) that I want to chip to DCC, however it's not running that well on DC is there anything I can do to make it run better? I runs ok by itself but when I put another loco on the track with the same power supply it slows right down to the point of stopping even if the controller is set to full. Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dagworth Posted March 15, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 15, 2017 Hi I have this Hornby Inter-City 125 (DC) that I want to chip to DCC, however it's not running that well on DC is there anything I can do to make it run better? I runs ok by itself but when I put another loco on the track with the same power supply it slows right down to the point of stopping even if the controller is set to full. Cheers what make and model is your DC controller? Andi Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
regme Posted March 16, 2017 Author Share Posted March 16, 2017 It's a Hornby Trainmaster 12v 0.75amp DC, I have another transformer that is 1.5amp. My DCC system in a NCE PowerCab. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Hi I have this Hornby Inter-City 125 (DC) that I want to chip to DCC, however it's not running that well on DC is there anything I can do to make it run better? I runs ok by itself but when I put another loco on the track with the same power supply it slows right down to the point of stopping even if the controller is set to full. Cheers Sounds like it could use a service, clean the commutator maybe new brushes and springs? Oil everything, remove the dog hair from the axles and fluff from the magnet, usual stuff. In accordance with LMS and LNER practice I religiously forget to service mine until they actually stop running in a cloud of blue smoke. However the power unit seems a bit lame at 0.75 amps, and it is depressingly common for one loco to go like a bat out of hell and another just creep when double heading using resistance controllers which I assume the Hornby is, and some 1990s era electronic feedback controllers. Its something you can keep on top of by pairing locos to double head with, but the cure is something like a Morley if you stay DC or obviously DCC will give a lot more amps which may improve things short term but if you don't sort the underlying problem it may equally cause the motor to overheat and fail completely. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
regme Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
regme Posted August 13, 2017 Author Share Posted August 13, 2017 Can you replace the motors in these with something better? I want to covert it to DCC but I thought I could improve the motor somehow Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davetheroad Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 Is the model based on the equivalent Lima version? If it is you can buy a remotoring kit for less than £13 that should transform the performance with better slow speed response and a motor that draws less milliamps. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RANGERS Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 I've used Bullant, Black Beetle and High-Level's Lo Rider in DMUs and I'd say the Lo Rider was the pick of the bunch for slow and smooth running but it would need a bit of carving to get it in, not to mention putting together. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
regme Posted August 14, 2017 Author Share Posted August 14, 2017 Thanks I'll check those out, also found out you can use a motor from a CD drive and change out the whole thing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted August 15, 2017 Share Posted August 15, 2017 Thanks I'll check those out, also found out you can use a motor from a CD drive and change out the whole thing. The CD drive motor fits the Lima derived chassis with a ring magnet while the one in the photo is the old 1980s Hornby variety. I have several Lima chassis with CD motors but I have not managed to fit a CD motor to a Hornby chassis, sleeving the drive gear to suit would be a challenge as would grinding enough off the motor housing to fit the CD motor. My son's Hornby HST goes like a rocket so maybe it just needs a service Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAF96 Posted August 15, 2017 Share Posted August 15, 2017 I found I couldn't get a CD motor into a Co-Co ringfield motor as the intermediate gear train shaft bearing was in the way of the cd motor case. Grind off the shaft bearing stub and the gear shaft won't locate firmly enough to work. Grind out the cd motor casing and you destroy the rubber magnet and jam up the armature. Gave up on that ringfield motor housing conversion. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davetheroad Posted August 15, 2017 Share Posted August 15, 2017 It would be easier to buy a Lima HST and remotor that with a kit from diesel-trains Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted August 16, 2017 Share Posted August 16, 2017 The Lima 4 wheel chassis just needs a CD motor, a bit of plasticard with 3 holes, 2 screw holes and a big one for the rear bearing bulge on the motor and a scalexric drive pinion. 6 wheel need a slim motor or the centre wheels foul. I might have another go at a Hornby chassis using Mersey507003's methods later, instead of trying to fit a Triang Dock shunter chassis to a Airfix / Kitmaster City of Truro (yes seriously) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titan Posted August 16, 2017 Share Posted August 16, 2017 (edited) Is it worthwhile upgrading to the later 5 pole Hornby ringfield? It is what i did in mine, and the motor only got replaced since it was completely worn out rather than poor running. Must have spent hundreds of hours whizzing round at top speed on a kids trainset somewhere! Edited August 16, 2017 by Titan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
regme Posted August 16, 2017 Author Share Posted August 16, 2017 Thanks for the ideas. I think that this HST is very old as there are no lights in the power cab. So I found this directional lighting from Black Cat Technology. So I'll need two decoders (one in the dummy car). Has anyone tried other options for lighting? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAF96 Posted August 16, 2017 Share Posted August 16, 2017 (edited) Thanks for the ideas. I think that this HST is very old as there are no lights in the power cab. So I found this directional lighting from Black Cat Technology. So I'll need two decoders (one in the dummy car). Has anyone tried other options for lighting?I have used Express Models lighting kits and also scratchbuilt diesel lighting from components, using both small diameter leds and SMD leds.A large variation in cost between kits and components of course. Edited August 16, 2017 by RAFHAAA96 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titan Posted August 16, 2017 Share Posted August 16, 2017 Thanks for the ideas. I think that this HST is very old as there are no lights in the power cab. So I found this directional lighting from Black Cat Technology. So I'll need two decoders (one in the dummy car). Has anyone tried other options for lighting? The HST had working lights right from the start. If they are missing they may have been removed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 ...I added a close up of the cog side to show the modification ... By appearance, the most significant modification is that the motor cog and left hand gear are chewing themselves up against each other. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
royaloak Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 (edited) Close of cd motor cog side of HST motor bogie.jpg Here are the close ups of the cd motor conversion of a Hornby hst/dmu bogie.. That cog and left hand gear wheel look a bit knackered! Edit- Already covered. Edited August 17, 2017 by royaloak Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
regme Posted August 17, 2017 Author Share Posted August 17, 2017 Thanks for the picks, it gives me a better idea. From my pic in post #6 there is a white wire I'm not sure why it is there, from the service sheets there is nothing that shows that same connection so I guess I can remove it. Also just to get it clear in my head on how the motor works, the power comes from the left side of the front bogie onto the motor, through the capacitor and out through the wheels on the right (I might have my lefts and rights mixed up). The small capacitor, I would think it acts like those "stay-alives" that come with a DCC decoder? What's the best way to pull the wheels off the motor in order to remove the plate to get access to the armature? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
regme Posted August 18, 2017 Author Share Posted August 18, 2017 Thanks for that, as this is going to be my first conversion, both for the motor and DCC, I want to make sure all my ducks are in a row, as I know I can end up in s*** creek very quickly. Now all I have to do is stop the wagons derailing on the points and crossings then I'm set, but that's another story. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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