Jump to content
 

Nile's NG Modelling


Nile
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Premium

The PECO RTR skip wagons are nice models, I have a few, but there is a problem with the couplings. There is no easy way to change them as there is no NEM.355 socket. I don't know if anyone else has tried this, but I decided to try and fit Greenwich couplings using some spare loops. This is how I did it.

The model comes apart easily enough, the keeper plate unclips to release the wheels, I removed the PECO coupling from one end, this will be replaced by the Greenwich loop. The little square block the arrow is pointing to was carved off, it gets in the way of the new coupling.

post-6821-0-93626800-1504125875_thumb.jpg

 

The Greenwich loop will pivot on a piece of brass rod (about 0.4mm will do), I filed a slot for this on the upper side of the keeper plate in line with the pips on the underside of the chassis (red line in photo).

post-6821-0-43105600-1504125884_thumb.jpg

 

The Greenwich loop was made up as per the instructions, apart from bending over the end with the iron wire on it. In the photo it is being held in place by the brass rod. This needs to be long enough not to fall out, but has to fit between the pips. I've replaced the plastic PECO wheels with Farish coach wheels.

post-6821-0-67267900-1504125895_thumb.jpg

 

With the keeper plate clipped back into place the tail end of the coupling was bent over. It is possible to remove and refit the keeper plate with the tail bent over, but it's easier with it straight.

post-6821-0-66336800-1504125912_thumb.jpg

 

The next two photos show it the right way up.

post-6821-0-97541700-1504125921_thumb.jpg

post-6821-0-04747300-1504125932_thumb.jpg

 

And now for some photos of it in use:

Coupled to a Minitrains Bagnal.

post-6821-0-64412100-1504125940_thumb.jpg

 

Coupled to a wagon with a normal Greenwich coupling.

post-6821-0-99975600-1504125949_thumb.jpg

 

Positioned over a magnet.

post-6821-0-98079400-1504125959_thumb.jpg

  • Like 10
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

After a bit of a play I identified a problem with the new coupling. The loop can lift too high and become stuck in the up position. My solution was to fit a small piece of 20thou plastic just behind it (arrowed below), this limits how high the loop can lift.

post-6821-0-55353700-1504561407_thumb.jpg

 

The modified one is on the left here.

post-6821-0-84839500-1504561419_thumb.jpg

 

This same problem was affecting some PECO couplings I'd fitted Greenwich loops to some time ago. The same solution also fixed them, the extra piece of plastic is behind the loop.

post-6821-0-88649900-1504561429_thumb.jpg

  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • RMweb Premium

In the interest of having something different, traffic wise, I bought a box of sheep wagon kits by Nine Lines. I've built the three that have doors, the other two don't . I'll build them later, probably in a modified form. These three will do for now, a longer train won't fit in the loop at Scarside..

post-6821-0-53488200-1505939562_thumb.jpg

 

I'll fit Greenwich couplings on the outer ends, PECO ones will do between the wagons. They will be mounted on the white blocks.

post-6821-0-97426300-1505939579_thumb.jpg

 

The bit of brass rod is a tight enough fit to hold it in place. If it works loose I'll add some glue.

post-6821-0-69103300-1505939600_thumb.jpg

 

That sets it at about the right height.

post-6821-0-48636600-1505939612_thumb.jpg

 

I've tried to get an unpainted wood look, you can't have sheep nibbling painted or treated wood. I still need to paint the iron work black.

post-6821-0-24667100-1505939624_thumb.jpg

  • Like 12
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Premium

With the sheep wagons came a box of 3 cattle wagon kits. As I've already built 4 of these I'm going to do something different with these ones. The first is being built as a sheep wagon, which basically means removing everything above the door tops.

The insides of the doors have holes that needed filling, I then scribed some planks on them.. The original floor has some longitudinal planking on it, which looks odd to me. I sanded that down and glued some Slaters planking on it.

post-6821-0-53251600-1506947075_thumb.jpg

 

Underneath there is some lead sheet for weight. The plastic blocks behind the axle boxes are thick enough to take normal pinpoint bearings. This will stop any squeaking from the axles, I'm using 7mm Romford wheels again here.

post-6821-0-39483800-1506947089_thumb.jpg

 

After giving the inside an initial coat of Humbrol 84 I added some microstrip around the tops of the sides. This includes some cross bracing which I think this longer wagon would need.

post-6821-0-43634400-1506947103_thumb.jpg

 

Now painted, and with added woolies, but no couplings yet.

post-6821-0-93747400-1506947117_thumb.jpg

  • Like 9
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

After painting the iron work on the three sheep wagons black I made a small mod to them. I cut the top plank off the doors to bring their height down almost level with the wagon sides. They now better match the converted wagons I've both built and planned.

post-6821-0-05153400-1507146976_thumb.jpg

  • Like 7
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Premium

I've built the other two cattle wagons as flats with bulkhead ends, suitable for carrying large blocks of stone. The ends were cut down, and various bits of Slater's plastic added to form 1 plank drop sides.

post-6821-0-37132000-1507976692_thumb.jpg

 

The view from the other side after painting and weathering.

post-6821-0-84464900-1507976703_thumb.jpg

 

The two completed wagons together at Scarside, although they are meant for my other railway.

post-6821-0-87170900-1507976712_thumb.jpg

  • Like 12
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

The unused sides of the cattle wagons haven't gone to waste. I used the doors from two of them to modify the two remaining sheep wagon kits. As they come out of the box the remaining two sheep wagons have no doors. That might suite the W&L but I've added doors to mine. The photo below should explain how.

post-6821-0-51718600-1508358172_thumb.jpg

 

The two wagon variations compared, after painting.

post-6821-0-02226100-1508358183_thumb.jpg

 

post-6821-0-17003900-1508358199_thumb.jpg

 

The Scarrdale Railway now has so many sheep wagons it can lend some out to other lines. These two were recently spotted at Moorside, on the Yoredale Tramway.

post-6821-0-33014200-1508359221.jpg

  • Like 13
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Premium

I took advantage of a recent free postage offer to order some 3d prints from Shapeways. These are Sentinel steam railcars inspired by those that ran on Jersey.

post-6821-0-65270800-1509371565_thumb.jpg

I haven't removed the roof from the longer one yet. The shorter one has been painted black as part of my process to smooth its surface. Even though these had been polished there is still room for improvement.

This view of the back of the power units shows how the trailer is articulated. The mounting point can be adjusted for tight curves, I've set mine to work with the 9 inch curves of set-track.

post-6821-0-23121200-1509371575_thumb.jpg

 

This underside view shows how the Kato power unit simply clips into place. I've used a self tapping screw to secure the bogie at the other end. The bogie has American N gauge wheels, British ones won't fit due to their longer axles.

post-6821-0-51182700-1509371584_thumb.jpg

 

A closer view of the shorter one, prior to painting its proper colours. The temporary weights inside the power unit (for test running) made it a bit top heavy. There is room underneath, either side of the Kato unit, for lead strips which will give a lower centre of gravity.

post-6821-0-46705400-1509371593_thumb.jpg

  • Like 16
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

After the addition of lots of paint, inside and out, it was nearly finished by the time of ExpoNG last Saturday. I hadn't had time to finish the glazing. It made an appearance during my stints operating Sand Point.

post-6821-0-10362100-1509570848_thumb.jpg

 

The roofs are held on by tiny magnets (1x1mm) glued into the corners at the front, and one at the rear.

post-6821-0-20300400-1509570858_thumb.jpg

post-6821-0-87895200-1509570866_thumb.jpg

 

I made boilers for the power units from plastic tube and rod. It's positioned to line up with the chimney. The handrails and handles are 0.4mm brass rod, painted gunmetal.

post-6821-0-66905600-1509570944_thumb.jpg

 

After ExpoNG I finished the glazing. The duckets of the power unit were tricky, the thin strips project into the body but aren't visible from outside.

post-6821-0-84582100-1509570956_thumb.jpg

 

Underneath are some strips of lead to give it some weight low down.

post-6821-0-92721900-1509570999_thumb.jpg

 

In the trailer I added a partition at the driving end. I haven't glazed it as you can't tell from outside. The brake wheel was lying around on my bench, American I think.

post-6821-0-69760200-1509570982_thumb.jpg

  • Like 11
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Premium

At last the other longer one is finished. Livery is inspired by the Furness Railway, the actual colours are Revell Lufthansa blue and light grey.

post-6821-0-30553400-1510587034_thumb.jpg

 

The only difference between the two is the length of the trailer, apart from the livery.

post-6821-0-89531400-1510587045_thumb.jpg

 

And finally the two in a more scenic setting.

post-6821-0-28753000-1510587054_thumb.jpg

  • Like 17
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

As well as the Sentinel railcars my order from Shapeways also included a body for a small diesel loco. This also uses the same Kato chassis. It comes as three separate parts:roof, body and chassis. This is after a bit of painting and sanding.

post-6821-0-98335400-1510936819_thumb.jpg

 

There are some pegs on the underside of the body that locate into holes on the chassis. To hold the body in place I've used four pairs of micro-magnets.

post-6821-0-37898000-1510936840_thumb.jpg

 

After a bit more paint. I've started adding handrails.

post-6821-0-94772900-1510936850_thumb.jpg

 

The roof will also be held on with magnets.

post-6821-0-45291100-1510936864_thumb.jpg

  • Like 13
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

With the Kato power unit having a low profile there is plenty of room inside the body for weight. Add added four strips of lead, there's room for more but I think this will be enough. I've extended the cab front bulkhead down with a bit of card, reducing the gap above the motor.

post-6821-0-70791600-1511091812_thumb.jpg

 

The driver (plastic, unknown source) sits on a seat glued to the Kato unit. His right hand is resting on a bit of plastic rod attached to the chassis.

post-6821-0-97575300-1511091825_thumb.jpg

 

With the body on he can see out of front and rear windows just by turning his head. At the front I've fitted an etched mesh in the radiator grill (Shawplan). As well as the handrails there are 12 handles for the access hatches, mostly 0.4mm brass.

post-6821-0-08754400-1511091844_thumb.jpg

 

Nearly finished, I haven't glazed the windows yet.

post-6821-0-80083000-1511091859_thumb.jpg

  • Like 11
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...