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Lewes (LBSCR, 1886)

LBSCR Lewes 2mmFS EEMRC



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#1 Dave Searle

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Posted 12 April 2017 - 16:21

Introduction
 
Following on from our successful build of Hinksey Yard, the “little people” of the Epsom & Ewell Club decided to stretch ourselves and build a 2mmFS layout. We had enjoyed building a model of a real place, so looked for something similar. I have always had an interest in the LB&SCR and Andy had been fascinated by Lewes since he was a lad. So we looked at the plans and came up with the idea of building the second Lewes station as it was in 1886, just before it was rebuilt into its more familiar current form.
 
Why Lewes?
  • Interesting arrangement of lines
  • Multiple routes
  • Good combination of express, local & goods
  • It’s a challenge!
Why 1886?
  • Last year before rebuilding work on the "modern station" started
  • Allows a good mix of modern (Stroudley) and earlier (Craven) stock
  • Short train lengths
  • Public and Working timetables are available (National Archives)
  • It’s a challenge!
Why 2mmFS?
  • Consistent wheel/track standards
  • The club hasn’t done 2mmFS before
  • Team want to develop their skills
  • It’s a challenge!
Research
 
We have spent some considerable effort researching Lewes and its railways over the last year or so and have probably found all the easily available (and some not so easily available) information. This has included:
  • Visits to the National Archives and The Keep (the East Sussex Records office) 
  • The Brighton Circle
  • Holman’s 1886 directory of Lewes and census returns for 1881 & 1891
  • Site visits (to check the location of the various pubs we will need to model) 
  • Collecting books and photographs.
  • Scouring the internet :)
Brief history of Lewes Station
 
8 June 1846: Line from Brighton to first (terminus) station.
27 June 1846: Line extends west to Hastings, but bypasses the terminus station! Trains reverse out of Lewes to continue to Hastings (or reverse into if going towards Brighton)
1 October 1847: Line from London arrives and joins just before the junction to the terminus station, trains still need to reverse in/out of the terminus to continue.
1 November 1857: Second station opens in the angle between the London and Brighton Lines.
 
Railway-Mag-1950-01-p46.jpg
[Railway Magazine, January 1950]
 
1 October 1868: Line to Uckfield opens on a rising viaduct to the north east.
1878/9: Re-signalled
1887: Building work starts on third station.
17 June 1889: Third station opens.
 
Railway-Mag-1950-01-p48.jpg
[Railway Magazine, January 1950]
 
Other layouts
 
There are/have been several models of Lewes in various scales and eras, including some on RMWeb. There is also a 1:150 model of the town as it was in the 1880s in the Barbican Museum in Lewes, showing a bit of the goods yard and there is a model of the third Lewes station in the Science Museum.
 
Plans
 
We obtained 1:500 plans of the town drawn up in 1873 which shows the layout of the station and surrounding area. We had these blown up to 1:152.4 for 2mm scale and stuck them to the baseboards. It was initially decide to build the main station area and then as a second phase build the goods yard and river.
 
Layout-plans-01.jpg
 
Baseboards
 
Base boards are from 6mm ply and feature a "jigsaw" board joint. The Fiddle yards are still to be designed
 
baseboard-plans-01.jpg
baseboard-plans-02.jpg
baseboard-plans-03.jpg
 
Track
 
Tests are underway with the various track building methods. We are currently looking at a mixture of 9’ copper clad sleepers and Versaline chair plates (for electrical connections and ease of adjustment) as well as wooden 9’ sleepers and Easitrack plastic chairs. Although the overall ballasting will hide much of the trackwork it is very exposed in some areas around pointwork, There is also the continuous check rail on both the London lines due to the sharp curvature (10 chains).
 
track-01.jpg
 
A Templot plan is being prepared from the original 1879 re-signalling plans
 
Stock
 
We will need to build all the stock since only Terriers available commercially in N. We are working on a couple of 2mm Association replacement chassis for those.
We have made a start on some etched brass Stroudley coach kits from Etched Pixels and a number of 3D printed wagons from Stockprints on Shapeways (in FXD)
 
wagons-01.jpg
 
If you are in the Epsom area and are interested in this project come and see us on the club's information desk at our show on 22-23 April
 
Cheers,
 
Dave
 
 

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#2 Claude_Dreyfus

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Posted 12 April 2017 - 16:33

You're right, you certainly like a challenge! What a great idea for a layout and certainly one which will keep your group occupied for some time to come. Looking forward to seeing this develop.

I have not come across those wagon kits before. Do they suggest/recommend chassis at all?
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#3 Dave Searle

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Posted 12 April 2017 - 16:41

The wagons are complete with solebars and buffer beams.  Eddie (the designer) recommends 2mm Association W-Irons.

 

We need to add buffers, W-irons, springs, axle boxes and brake gear.  We've sourced some etched LBSCR brass W-irons (with curved and straight side braces), and are working on springs, axle boxes, brake levers and blocks. There are some buffers from the 2mm Association which are quite close to the Stroudley design, but I keep forgetting which part number they are :(

 

Cheers,

Dave


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#4 Ian Morgan

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Posted 12 April 2017 - 16:49

I heard about this at the Abingdon show and was impressed then by the vision. Now, seeing the plans, I am even more impressed. Good luck with this build.


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#5 nick_bastable

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Posted 12 April 2017 - 17:15

good luck I suspect it will take a lot longer than you think and early LBSCR engines will prove a challenge 

 

Nick


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#6 Gareth Collier

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Posted 12 April 2017 - 20:40

Looking forward to seeing this progress. I stuck to 'N' for my Horeham Road & Waldron layout but it's good fun putting the stock together.

more p's 010.JPG

more p's 015.JPG

portrait 2 002.JPG

portrait 2 003.JPG

portrait 2 004.JPG

 

 

 


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#7 nick_bastable

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Posted 12 April 2017 - 20:44

strangely when I saw this thread I thought of your excellent models and wondered if you where involved and converted to the 2mm dark-side 

 

it appears not

 

 

Nick



#8 Gareth Collier

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Posted 13 April 2017 - 04:39

strangely when I saw this thread I thought of your excellent models and wondered if you where involved and converted to the 2mm dark-side 

 

it appears not

 

 

 

I think one of the problems that will be encountered with this project is the one I had, track. Back in the 1890's the trend was for the permanent way to be ballasted over the sleepers which needs to be reproduced but creates issues when modelling in this small size. I had initially considered 2mm code 40 track but once covered with even the finest layer of ballast the stock won't run as the flanges lift the wheels off the track. So 2mm was out so I reverted back to 'N' but even code 55 Peco track had the same problem. I never thought it would happen but I had to go back to code 80 and all is now fine :)


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#9 Dave Searle

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Posted 13 April 2017 - 06:00

I think one of the problems that will be encountered with this project is the one I had, track. Back in the 1890's the trend was for the permanent way to be ballasted over the sleepers which needs to be reproduced but creates issues when modelling in this small size. I had initially considered 2mm code 40 track but once covered with even the finest layer of ballast the stock won't run as the flanges lift the wheels off the track.


Thanks for the warning, I will need to try some experiments to see how this will affect us.

Cheers,

Dave

#10 justin1985

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Posted 13 April 2017 - 07:15

What an amazing project! I've looked at the photos in the Wild Swan "E.J. Bedford of Lewes" photo book and thought lustfully what a great layout it would make.

On the ballasting, take a look at TomE's Ropley - in the yard area outside the modern shed he's used Treemendus earth powders to ballast code 40 in a way that covers most of the sleepers.

I'll do my best to make it to the show - I'm only over in Croydon :)

Justin
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#11 bécasse

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Posted 13 April 2017 - 08:56

The trick with the track is to put fillers - plastic or card strips - between the sleepers so that there is little (or preferably) no height difference between the sleeper tops and the "ballast" top. Paint the ensemble with an appropriate gloss colour and sprinkle with a powder, also of an appropriate colour, while it is still wet. The rails will need cleaning up, of course, but that I have found that to be easier than it sounds.

 

The LBSCR used shingle ballast, typically from the Crumbles at Eastbourne, and a dark sand paint and a grey powder might prove the best colour combination, perhaps with some subsequent "dry-brushing" to highlight the powder texture. However, like all these things, it needs a bit of trialling to get it right, but it is certainly possible.

 

Incidentally, using the fillers, cut from equal width strips, makes sleeper spacing a doddle - and there is no need to glue them in, the gloss paint will fix them quite sufficiently.

 

Good luck with the project!


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#12 2mmMark

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Posted 13 April 2017 - 09:08

Thanks for the warning, I will need to try some experiments to see how this will affect us.

Cheers,

Dave

 

I used a cheap small flat-blade screwdiver with tip filed to a wheel profile to remove stray ballast after ballasting and painting. This also has the advantage of removing paint from the inside top of the rail which I find a useful aid to better electrical pickup.

 

I need to smooth off some too coarse ballast on a 2mm industrial layout and my plan, not yet tried out I should caution, is to use coloured tile grout. Somewhere like Topps Tiles will have grout in many useful shades, greys, browns etc.

 

An interesting project.  I saw this at your open day last year.

 

Mark


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#13 John lewsey

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Posted 15 April 2017 - 21:25

What a fantastic project
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#14 StuartM

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Posted 16 April 2017 - 19:40

Excellent choice of location to model.

I used to live in Crowborough on the Uckfield line, which used to reach as far as Lewis before the nasty Dr Beeching came along, a decision much regretted with the BML now full to capacity.  The whole LS&SCR was a wonderful thing.
I wish you well with this project and will follow with interest

The attached photo shows one of through tracks now filled in

Attached Thumbnails

  • dslr 015.jpg

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#15 justin1985

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Posted 17 April 2017 - 09:56

I need to smooth off some too coarse ballast on a 2mm industrial layout and my plan, not yet tried out I should caution, is to use coloured tile grout. Somewhere like Topps Tiles will have grout in many useful shades, greys, browns etc.

 

 

Interesting idea Mark. I've got a small amount of BAL micromax "smoke" colour grout left over from when we had the downstairs loo refurbished. Were you thinking of applying it dry "like ballast" and wetting it to fix, or using glue to fix, or applying wet as a slurry "like grout" ? 

 

Justin



#16 Yorkshire Square

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Posted 17 April 2017 - 10:39

Interesting idea Mark. I've got a small amount of BAL micromax "smoke" colour grout left over from when we had the downstairs loo refurbished. Were you thinking of applying it dry "like ballast" and wetting it to fix, or using glue to fix, or applying wet as a slurry "like grout" ? 
 
Justin


I'd recommend something like:

http://www.polycell....la-ready-mixed/

I used this for the scenery on Brafferton including all of the road/yard surfaces. Unlike most plasters or groups it is relatively soft when set and can be easily carved and cleaned up. Adding a fine abrasive or dusting it when laid would give a good representation of fine ballast. It takes colouring very well be it paint, stains or powders.
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#17 2mmMark

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Posted 17 April 2017 - 22:31

Interesting idea Mark. I've got a small amount of BAL micromax "smoke" colour grout left over from when we had the downstairs loo refurbished. Were you thinking of applying it dry "like ballast" and wetting it to fix, or using glue to fix, or applying wet as a slurry "like grout" ? 

 

Justin

 

I'm going to try setting the grout powder in dry, then mist over with some wetted water using my airbrush. By co-incidence, I have exactly the same colour left over from our bathroom.



#18 Caley Jim

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Posted 18 April 2017 - 08:54

........ some wetted water using my airbrush.......


I didn't know that there was such a thing as dry water! What do you use to wet it?
:-)

Jim
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#19 2mmMark

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Posted 18 April 2017 - 09:16

I didn't know that there was such a thing as dry water! What do you use to wet it?
:-)

Jim

 

Just sprinkle a little bit of dehydrated water on it.


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#20 Oldddudders

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Posted 18 April 2017 - 09:29

Wet water has a drop of washing up liquid or similar substance in it, thus reducing the surface tension. It helps avoid the ballast balling up.
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#21 Caley Jim

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Posted 18 April 2017 - 09:29

Just sprinkle a little bit of dehydrated water on it.

That's hard to come by up here. Most of our water is pretty wet, especially the stuff that comes from the sky! :-/

Jim
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#22 Edwardian

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Posted 19 April 2017 - 09:03

That's hard to come by up here. Most of our water is pretty wet, especially the stuff that comes from the sky! :-/

Jim

 

Same up my way, too!

 

What a wonderful project.  Very much look forward to watching it develop.


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#23 bcnPete

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Posted 22 April 2017 - 13:55

Good to talk with you Dave and some of your colleagues earlier today at the excellent Epsom exhibition.

Good luck with this - all looked good what was on show today ;)

One to follow...

Edited by bcnPete, 22 April 2017 - 15:41 .

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#24 Dave Searle

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Posted 25 April 2017 - 08:14

Hi, it was good to meet several of you at the show and talk about our plans. We had lots of interest and many helpful comments and suggestions both from people who know Lewes and from modellers.

 

In particular, many 2mmFS modellers stopped to talk* and offer useful advice from their experience, which has been most encouraging.  We were given lots of practical suggestions and offers of help which we will now explore.

 

Many thanks,

 

Cheers,

Dave

 

*on their way to the excellent 'Lighterman's Yard'


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#25 edubs

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Posted 26 April 2017 - 14:03

Hi Dave,

 

I've only just caught up with this thread, and it looks like I've missed your show.

 

Those wagons look great, thanks for the plug, I did wonder why I suddenly had a little flurry of sales!

 

Not much going on in development at the moment, plenty of non railway stuff happening, and a house move this year or next, but will get back to designing at some point.

 

Cheers,

 

Eddie.


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