RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted October 26, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 26, 2018 So you've replaced a drivetrain with lots of gears for a gearbox with lots of gears... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted October 26, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 26, 2018 Methinks I have more confidence in those from high level/CK rather than those from the Distinctly Jittery Models stable........ Rob. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted October 26, 2018 Share Posted October 26, 2018 (edited) Another update on Bethesda Sidings' 14XX - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/21/entry-21481-new-chassis-for-the-hattons-14xx-part-2/ The 14XX chassis I bought from Puffers (the Harrow shop) had castings for the rear wheel sides, this was long before the Airfix loco came out as it went under a K's loco, still a nice chassis to work on. I also obtained a ready built Comet chassis, though owing to the K's body being too short is still waiting for a donor body, or an attack with a Dremel Must say a super bit of model making both with the chassis and rebuilding the step Edited October 26, 2018 by hayfield Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted October 26, 2018 Share Posted October 26, 2018 Thanks for the link CK. The loco seems to be putting up a fight at every step, you're obviously made of sterner stuff than me. Chassis are a funny thing, as they either go together easily or are a pain from start to finish. A friend came round today as I gave him a Wills Caly tank with an early Wills etched chassis to build some time ago. He's been struggling with the chassis so I suggested he stripped it back to its components and we rebuilt it with me showing him what to do. He popped round today and 3 hours later after several coffees the chassis had been completely rebuilt and runs as sweet as a nut. Whilst waiting for the epoxy glue on the copperclad pads to set (for the pickups) I even had tome to letter and number the loco. He said he would leave the chassis in bare metal, however I think in a few days he will pick up the courage to remove the wheels and paint it. He has a Hush Hush to build but I suggested he at least builds under his own steam another easy to build chassis, if not a whole loco before the big beast. Still I think the penny has dropped on not rushing in the hope of building it quickly 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted October 26, 2018 Share Posted October 26, 2018 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted October 28, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 28, 2018 So you've replaced a drivetrain with lots of gears for a gearbox with lots of gears... Well, yes I have, in a distinctly conceptual way, but then again, the subliminal aesthetic qualities of the metaphorical etched elements spatially undermines the possibility of a quantitative and qualitative exploration of the way the montage elements resonate when you run the DJM one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted October 28, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 28, 2018 Well, yes I have, in a distinctly conceptual way, but then again, the subliminal aesthetic qualities of the metaphorical etched elements spatially undermines the possibility of a quantitative and qualitative exploration of the way the montage elements resonate when you run the DJM one. Google Translate: My one works Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted October 28, 2018 Share Posted October 28, 2018 Torn Tonne today, I wonder if they will have any Mazak spare ? G Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted October 28, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 28, 2018 Torn Tonne today Comment, monsieur? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted October 28, 2018 Share Posted October 28, 2018 (edited) Comment, monsieur? I merely mentioned it as I went to the show and wondered if there were any other tales of woe in respect of the 14xx, that said I didn't see any running on the exhibitors layouts. I did see a man called Morris though. G Edited October 28, 2018 by bgman Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted October 28, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 28, 2018 I merely mentioned it as I went to the show and wondered if there were any other tales of woe in respect of the 14xx, that said I didn't see any running on the exhibitors layouts. I did see a man called Morris though. G Ah, yes, I see. Sorry, being a bit slow today, although more progress seems to have been made on the 14XX. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted October 30, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 30, 2018 Further progress on the 14XX has been made, although no photos yet. I have successfully mated the body to the new chassis and confirmed that there is now room within the body moulding (ie. without the mazak block) for my chosen gearbox configuration, plus a Mashima 1220 motor and a slim flywheel. I did mill some plastic off the rear of the backhead moulding to ensure that the flywheel could be accommodated, but others might not need to do that, should a different gearbox configuration be chosen. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Ian Hargrave Posted October 30, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 30, 2018 Well, yes I have, in a distinctly conceptual way, but then again, the subliminal aesthetic qualities of the metaphorical etched elements spatially undermines the possibility of a quantitative and qualitative exploration of the way the montage elements resonate when you run the DJM one. William McGonagle incarnate...….."it is not better.....it is much worse....or even just the same" 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted October 31, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 31, 2018 Further progress on the 14XX (still no photos, sorry): - Got the wheels in the chassis and the rods going round nice and smoothly - Run the chassis successfully on Bethesda Sidings with the motor directly wired to the controller using wander leads - Got the flywheel fitted to the motor - Started thinking about the pick-ups and how they will be arranged 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted November 1, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 1, 2018 It'll be interesting to see some photos of your efforts to get a proper running chassis. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted November 1, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 1, 2018 It'll be interesting to see some photos of your efforts to get a proper running chassis. Hi - I've just published another update on the blog, here - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/21/entry-21526-new-chassis-for-the-hattons-14xx-part-3/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted November 1, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 1, 2018 Looks very neat. I hope that there's room for a dollop or two of lead. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted November 1, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 1, 2018 Looks very neat. I hope that there's room for a dollop or two of lead. Yes, I've already filled the boiler cavity with lead, having removed the DCC bits previously. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted November 4, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 4, 2018 Got the brake gear on now, having had a bit of help from a small lump of bluetack: PS. The wheels are in the wrong axle holes, now corrected! 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted November 4, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 4, 2018 Looks good, motor, gearbox and some coupling rods and the jobs a good 'un. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 Got the brake gear on now, having had a bit of help from a small lump of bluetack: 20181104_114707.jpg PS. The wheels are in the wrong axle holes, now corrected! Captain Looking very exceptionally good, one conundrum I have is when to paint the chassis ? I do like not having to remove the wheels and gearbox from the chassis too often, on the other hand wanting to preserve the paintwork whilst the build is in progress Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted November 7, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 7, 2018 If you use horn blocks and a keeper plate of some sort, you can drop the wheelset out, whilst you paint the chassis. Using the CSB system is great for this, you just pull the two springing wires out and the wheelset is out. Parts for the CSB system are available from Chris Gibbons of High Level. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted November 8, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 8, 2018 Captain Looking very exceptionally good, one conundrum I have is when to paint the chassis ? I do like not having to remove the wheels and gearbox from the chassis too often, on the other hand wanting to preserve the paintwork whilst the build is in progress As Siberian Snooper has indicated, depends on whether hornblocks are present and/or what type of wheels are in use. As this is an OO loco, I have used Markits wheels, which I will remove and paint separately, once the pick-ups are fitted and I am completely happy with the running of the loco. The wheels will be pushed into same-diameter holes in a piece of card and sprayed with primer and then a top coat (ideally a dirty, gungy colour), which will then be the basis for further weathering of the wheels, whilst still 'off chassis'. When the wheels are ready to be put back on the chassis, I will first mount each of them on an axle and clean the treads, flanges and backs of flanges in an electric drill, with cotton buds soaked in cellulose thinners. That usually gives me a nice, crisp edge right round the circumference of the wheel. In the meantime, I prime the chassis (sometimes I spray it, but I usually find it easier to brush paint both the primer and the top (also 'gunge') coat, as that gives you more control over not getting the important parts of the pick ups covered in paint, also the bearings etc. Where pick-ups have already been carefully adjusted, I don't like the idea of risking knocking them out of alignment, by having to clean bits to get paint off. I usually weather the whole chassis with enamels, before putting the wheels back on and testing the chassis again. One of the last things to be done will be to glue axle nut covers on and weather those as well. All that is still to come, as I am currently being distracted by some DIY work at home, which in turn was delayed by my attempt to affix my hand to the wall, by screwing a shelving bracket into the wall, over the top of it. The local MIU has told me that, fortunately, I haven't broken anything! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted December 19, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 19, 2018 British Railways, Western Region Operation of Class D95XX diesel-hydraulics between Leominster (Kington Junction) and Capel Bethesda. Following successful clearance trials, D95XX 0-6-0 diesel-hydraulic locomotives are permitted to work between Leominster (Kington Junction) and Capel Bethesda goods sidings. All movements are limited to a maximum of 20 mph over this route subject to other prevailing permanent speed restrictions. The operation of these locomotives remains prohibited between Titley Junction and Presteign and between Capel Bethesda and Gunstone Junction. A. Cuthbertson District Operating Superintendant, Hereford 29th March 1965 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted January 11, 2019 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 11, 2019 I recently bought one of the Michael Clemens series of DVDs, based on his father Jim Clemens' cine footage shot in the 1960s. This one covered 'Rural Herefordshire' and showed the workings of the Kington and Presteigne branch goods in some detail. It was really good stuff and very inspiring, because these workings would have been extended through to Bethesda Sidings in my alternative reality. There was one thing that puzzled me, though. The branch was freight only by the early 1960s, when this footage was taken, but was otherwise 'fully operational'. Mr Clemens accompanied a typical working along the branch (and clearly visited by car on other occasions for 'infill' shots). The train in question seems to have run past Kington Jct signal box at Leominster without slowing down to accept the One Train Working Staff for the single line, but has then stopped just around the corner, clear of the main line junction, for the guard to lay three detonators 'to protect the train while it's down the branch'. On the return working, the train stops to pick the detonators up again and then slows at the signal box for the footplate crew to hand the One Train Working Staff over. Whilst I can accept that the OTW staff may have been handed to the crew in the yard at Leominster on the outward trip (although that's not too credible) and whilst I can also accept that Mr Clemens may actually have filmed the trip on separate occasions (ie. the returning trip was not the same as the outward one he filmed), what I don't understand is why it was necessary to lay detonators at the main line junction 'to protect the branch?' Surely the signal man has 'protected the branch' by handing over the OTW staff and can also use a reminder appliance in the signal box and make a note in the Train Register? Does anyone else know what was going on, please? Thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now